Persian pilaw was a very popular dish, seasoned with anything from bits of lamb, venison, or ostrich, pistachios, and herbs to whole spices, raisins, dates, and figs. It was a favored stuffing for whole baby lamb or eggplant, a vegetable specialty that exists to this day. The hand-gathered stamens of the autumn crocus, saffron, have given us the favored combination of saffron with rice, a culinary masterpiece that has come up through the centuries into Iberian and Italian cooking as well.
Egypt was one of the first cuisines to use Persia’s technique for cooking rice, and it spread quickly to Greece (Alexander the Great had brought rice back from his campaigns). Recipes for the fragrant pilaffi were recorded in the earliest Greek cookbook, Gastrology, by the poet Archestratus in 350 B.C. Greek cookbooks have recipes for pilaffi with everything from mussels to chicken, along with an extensive repertoire of delicious meatless renditions with simple vegetables or nuts, topped with mounds of fresh sheep or goat yogurt, to be served during the weeks of Lenten fasting. Rolls of stuffed grape leaves, dolma, are stuffed with lemon, dill, and mint-scented pilaffi.
India had a multitude of rice dishes already in its culinary repertoire by the time of Christ, dictated by the vegetarian diet outlined in the first Hindu Holy Book, the Rig-Veda. Centuries later, the Moghul Empire of Muslims from Turkey brought their recipe for pilau as they settled in the Ganges Valley. The dish called Sultan’s rice immediately caught on in a world where beautiful cooking was a fashionable kingly pursuit. Made with one of the premium rices of the world—long-grain basmati grown in the Himalayan foothills—pullao became a dish fit for royal tables, state occasions, and major religious holidays, often concocted by the king or prince himself. Recipes evolved to include the multilayered biryani, one of the most complex and subtle variations of the pilaf family.
Persia—the site of today’s Iran and sharing the western Indian border—was conquered by the Arabs in the seventh century, and the technique for pilaw moved with their foreign military campaigns across North Africa and into Spain and Mediter ranean Europe. The Arabs planted rice along the way, wherever it would grow. Pilaw was so tasty that countries subject to any Arab influence quickly assimilated the simple recipe as their own, so there is a pilaf to be found from Greece and Egypt to Spain and Provence
The cuisines of eastern Europe, the Austrian Empire, and part of southern Russia, influenced by hundreds of years of Turkish occupation, all have pilaf. Known as rys sumiany, rice sautéed as for a roux until brown, pilaf was a favorite of the old Polish nobility and Hungarian peasants; they ate it alongside spit-roasted meats and game.
Provence is known for its delicious pilafs, although, surprisingly, rice dishes did not become a part of overall French cuisine until the late nineteenth century, after the French Revolution. This was due to the French love of bread as a staple carbohydrate. Larousse Gastronomique, the French bible of cooking, has a separate heading for pilaf and describes it as “the method of preparing rice originating in the East.” French pilafs, riz pilaf, often have the addition of a bouquet garni, a fat bundle of aromatic herbs and parsley that is tied together, set into the liquid after sautéing the grains for flavor, and removed before serving. Favorite renditions include arranging the pilaf around cooked chicken livers or foie gras, or dotting it with slivers of truffle. Rice pilaf with toasted almonds is a traditional Provençal specialty.
The Spanish explorers brought pilaf to the New World along with the wonderful paella (paella is the Spanish word for pilaf ). A full-meal pilaf with some combination of meat (there is a recipe that even includes frog’s legs), fish, shellfish, rabbit, poultry, sausage, olives, and vegetables, paella is cooked in its own oversized (at least 12 inches in diameter) shallow iron or copper pan, a paellera. Paella a la Valenciana is described as a work of art, not just a dish of food.
After the conquest, Mexico had a steady supply of long-grain rice, imported from the Spanish-occupied Philippines (it was sometimes known as Java rice) to make their lusty pilaf, the sopa seca, the wonderful first course Mexican “dry soup” in which the rice is scorched by initially frying it with onions and sometimes tomatoes. Anyone traveling in Mexico for the first time and having ordered a bowl of soup, only to get a mound of burnished red-colored rice, has a fond memory of their first sopa seca.
In South America, the coastal lowlands of Colombia are perfect for growing rice.Arroz con coco is a pilaf with raisins using titoté, coconut oil rendered from fresh coconut milk, made for special occasions and served with turkey, ham, or locally caught grilled pescado—swordfish and talápia—and fried slices of plantain.
With the settling of the American colonies and slave labor, rice seed from Madagascar was planted in the Carolinas and Georgia. Thus named Carolina gold, the beautiful long-grain rice flourished. America had its own rice plantations and the rice grown there was some of the best in the world. African-American, Caribbean, New Orleans, and South Carolina cooks all devised variations of pilaf, often known as a perloo or pulao, with their own regional touches. An early edition of Joy of Cooking contains a recipe for Miss Emily’s Perloo. Dishes such as hoppin’ John (black-eyed peas and rice), Louisiana jambalaya, and Carolina red rice—filling, affordable peasant food at its finest, concocted to keep body and soul together—have become part of America’s culinary heritage. The Italian risotto, really a stirred pilaf made from short-grain rice that is deliberately overcooked without a lid on the pan, has also been adopted as a favorite preparation in America.
CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : PILAFIN THE RICE COOKER
We have provided an all-around selection of pilafs for preparation in your rice cooker. For the best results in the following recipes, we recommend using basmati, white Texmati, Jasmati, or Carolina and Texas long-grain rice, unless otherwise noted. If you like to use Uncle Ben’s converted rice, be sure to increase the liquid by ⅓ to ½ cup per 1 cup of rice to compensate for that rice’s longer cooking time.
riz au beurre
This is an incredibly easy pilaf. The rice, which must be just plain old long-grain (not jasmine), is sautéed in butter before cooking. If you use converted rice, a Parisian home favorite, be sure to increase the amount of water. A bit more butter is stirred in at serving time and, voilà!
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 6 to 8
4½ tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups long-grain white rice, such as Carolina or Texmati
2¾ cups water
1 teaspoon salt (¾ teaspoon if using salted butter)
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Soy sauce (optional)
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place 2½ tablespoons of the butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the rice. Cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes. Add the water and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, open the cover and dot the top of the rice with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 15 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for 2 to 3 hours. Serve hot, passing the pepper grinder or a cruet of soy sauce.
qui’s basmati pilaf
Qui was a Vedantic nun in the early 1960s when she learned the intricacies of cooking basmati rice, a favorite in the ashram kitchen, but unheard-of in American homes at the time. One of her special preparations when she comes to visit Beth is this rice served with Yellow Split Pea Soup with Fresh Lemon poured over it and long pieces of curved butter-fried banana halves on the side. This is a delicious basic pilaf, one you will find yourself making often.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
1 cup white basmati rice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1½ cups water
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
1. Place the rice in a fine strainer or bowl, rinse with cold water two to four times, and drain. The water will be chalky and slightly foamy. Spread the wet rice out with your hands on a clean tea towel on the counter. Let the rice air-dry for at least 1 hour, until cooking time (optional).
2. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the rice. Cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated, just ever-so-slightly golden, and hot, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the water and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for 2 to 3 hours. Serve hot.
brown rice pilaf
Be sure to use long-grain brown rice in this recipe. We like to use organic, if possible, as the bran layers of brown rice can store the residue of any pesticides used in the growing. Keep your brown rice in the refrigerator, especially in the summer, as the good, nutritious oils can go rancid. We love to concoct the bouquet garni, especially nice if you have a small garden. If you don’t, when you buy fresh herbs, air-dry some of the sprigs on a paper towel for a few days on the kitchen counter for later use in your herb bundles. The herbs and the olive oil cut the inherent sweetness of the rice perfectly.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular/Brown
Rice
YIELD: Serves 4
2½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup long-grain brown rice
2¼ cups water
¼ teaspoon salt
BOUQUET GARNI
Few sprigs fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
Few celery leaves
1 sprig fresh thyme, savory, marjoram, or rosemary
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular/Brown Rice cycle. Place the olive oil in the rice bowl. When hot, add the rice. Cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes.
2. While the rice is cooking, assemble the bouquet garni. Tie the herbs into a bundle using a piece of chive or kitchen twine. Place the bouquet garni on top of the rice. Add the water and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular/Brown Rice cycle or let the regular/ Brown Rice cycle complete.
3. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, remove the bouquet garni and discard it. Close the cover and let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 2 hours. Serve hot.
riz au parmesan
Whenever we have plain rice and want to make it special, out comes the Parmesan cheese. Parmesan is a very hard cow’s milk cheese, so it needs to be finely grated or shredded to eat. Good domestic Parmesan is made in the United States and is an acceptable substitute for the more complex flavored, and more expensive, imported Parmigiano-Reggiano. Palate dictates here. Beth likes to stir in some shredded mozzarella cheese at the end as well.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 3 to 4
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup finely chopped onion
½ teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup long-grain white rice
1⅔ cups chicken stock Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place 2 tablespoons of the butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and salt and pepper to taste; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour.
3. When ready to serve, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the cheese. Serve immediately.
indian yellow rice
Turmeric is a rhizome, like ginger, and is grown in tropical areas, including India, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Taiwan. No surprise, it is used for its pungent flavor and dark yellow color in the cuisines of those regions. It is essential to some Indian spice blends, but is able to stand on its own in this simple aromatic rice that is perfect served with stir-fried vegetables.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 6 to 8
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups white basmati rice
2 teaspoons turmeric
2½ cups chicken stock
½ teaspoon salt
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil and butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the rice and turmeric. Cook, stirring a few times, until the rice is shiny and hot, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for 1 to 2 hours. Serve hot.
orange rice pilaf
For the holidays, orange rice pilaf is good with roast turkey, capon, partridge, duck, or goose. The orange flavor ends up being quite subtle. Since citrus tends to harden the rice grain during cooking, it is best to keep the proportions small so that the dish cooks properly.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 4
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or rendered duck fat
2 tablespoons minced shallots
¼ cup minced celery, with some leaves
1 cup long-grain white rice
1¼ cups chicken stock
½ cup orange juice
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of dried thyme
Grated zest of 1 orange
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the oil and butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the shallots and celery. Cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, orange juice, salt, thyme, and zest; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.
vintner’s rice
Vintner’s rice, boros rizs, is a variation on a Hungarian recipe for pilaf from food entrepreneur George Lang. Rice pilaf was another food, like coffee and langós flatbread, left over from the Turkish military occupation. It has the addition of some dry white wine, such as a Chardonnay or Chablis, along with the broth.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 3 to 4
2 tablespoons unsalted b
utter
1 small white onion, coarsely grated
Dash of ground white pepper
1 cup long-grain white rice
3 thin lemon slices
½ bay leaf
1¼ cups chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine
⅓ teaspoon salt
1. Set the rice cooker for the Quick Cook or regular cycle. Place the butter in the rice bowl. When melted, add the onion and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the pepper. Add the rice and cook, stirring a few times, until all the grains are evenly coated and hot, about 10 minutes. Place the lemon slices and bay leaf on top of the rice. Add the stock, wine, and salt; stir just to combine. Close the cover and reset for the regular cycle or let the regular cycle complete.
2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Remove the bay leaf. This pilaf will hold on Keep Warm for up to 1 hour. Serve hot.
tomato-rice pilaf
It is a long-forgotten food fact that the culinary artist Escoffier, the king of chefs and the chef of kings, invented the canned tomato in 1895 while he worked at his London Savoy restaurant kitchen. Tomato pilaf made with canned tomatoes, called riz et tomate in France, is good with roast beef and veal. It is similar to a favorite dish made in the Greek Peloponnesus, spanakorizo, where it can have fresh spinach or sautéed leeks added in and cooked lightly with the rice. If you like pilaf with a bit more zing, add a few shots of your favorite south-of-the-border hot sauce or Tabasco sauce with the cooking broth. Serve topped with cold sour cream and minced fresh chives, or crumbled feta or goat cheese.
MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;
fuzzy logic or on/off
CYCLE: Quick Cook and/or regular
YIELD: Serves 6
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups long-grain white rice
2 cups or one 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with their juices
1¼ cups chicken stock or water
¾ teaspoon salt
The Ultimate Rice Cooker Page 15
