by Clint Willis
Joshimath, 310
jumars, 104
Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland, 95
K
K2, 335, 347, 368, 369, 427
K2 expedition, Boardman’s, 422–439
financing, 423
porters, trouble with, 424–425
strategy, 425–426
team members, 422
K2 expedition, Bonington’s
financing, 369–370
strategy, 369–370, 373–374, 375
team members, 368–369, 370, 377–378
Kangchenjunga, 37, 390, 399–400
Kangchenjunga expedition, 387–388, 389–412
strategy, 387, 389–390, 396, 406–407
Karakoram, 37, 273, 338
Kashmir, 227–228
Kent, Kelvin, 153, 201, 205, 240
Kleine Scheidegg, 72, 91, 105
knots, 5, 53
Kongur expedition, 443–465, 445–446
reconnaissance, 443–446
strategy, 447–448, 449–450, 452, 457, 458
summit reached, 462–463
team members, 445, 446–447, 450
Kongur, features of, 447, 448, 454, 458–459, 463
Kor, Layton, 105, 108, 120
L
Lake District, 19, 38, 101–102
Lambert, Dave, 153, 161, 170
laybacks, 324–325
Leach, Tim, 414, 416, 417, 419
Lehne, Jörg, 109, 122, 129, 132
M
Machapurchare, 147, 155
MacInnes Box, 204, 210
MacInnes, Hamish, 1–2, 142, 199, 240, 251, 252
climbing career, 196, 261
and Don Whillans, 200–201
injured, 26, 27–28, 29, 31
meets Chris Bonington, 6, 7, 8
Macmillan, Harold, 73
mail, 404, 486
Mallory, George, 206, 267, 269, 466, 488
Manchester, England, 16
Marshall, Jimmy, 100
Marshall, Jimmy and Ronnie, 94–95
Matterhorn, 13
media coverage, 46, 54, 58, 62, 73, 74, 78, 86
Annapurna II expedition, 153–154, 189, 193
of Everest expedition, 201, 225
excessive, 110
film and photo records, 446
of second Everest expedition, 243
Messner, Roland, 295, 389, 397
Mingma (Sherpa), 246–247, 386
monsoon, 188–189, 203
Mont Blanc Massif, 11–12, 46–53
Moriarty, James “Big Eley”, 94, 95, 96, 98, 99, 100
Mount Everest Foundation, 308
Mountain magazine, 201
N
Nally, Brian, 61
Nanda Devi Sanctuary, 230
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage (Buhl), 94
Nepal, 146, 146–147, 226, 229
Niethardt, Guy, 414, 419
Nima Tenzing, 244, 392, 396, 398
Noyce, Wilfred, 97
Nuptse peak, Everest, 34, 207, 253, 387
O
Ogre, 335–336
Ogre expedition, 337–339, 343–367
team, 337–339, 343–344
Old Man of Hoy, 141, 142
oxygen, 213, 214–215, 252, 265–266
P
Pakistan, 40, 226, 335, 424
partying, 95, 444, 471
Patagonia, 57, 73–88
Patey, Tom, 102, 103, 141, 142, 151, 194
death, 386
Peak District, 16, 38
Pertemba (Sherpa), 213, 214, 275, 276, 511
pitons, 6, 15, 108
porters, 392, 393. see also Sherpas
carrying the injured, 391–392
Hunza, 371, 375, 380, 424–425, 426, 436
Indian, 230, 304
objection, to use of, 450
quit expedition, 424–425
prusik knot, 5, 53
Q
Quamajan (porter), 375, 380
R
rappeling, 4–5, 45
religious practices, 244, 245, 329, 396, 415, 420, 472
Buddhist temples, destroyed, 472–474
Muslim, 436–437
Renshaw, Dick, 288, 294, 298–299, 300, 302, 303, 305
on Everest, 469–470
K2 expedition, 422
leaves Everest expedition, 493–494
suffers stroke, 491–492, 492–494, 493, 495
rescues, 60–62
Richards, Ronnie, 249, 260–261, 262
Rishikot, 228, 230
rivalry, team, 170–171, 175, 176, 209–210, 355, 375–376, 382–383, 467
rope drag, 111
ropes, use of, 5, 23, 23–24, 30–31, 52, 53, 81, 86, 108–109, 111, 112, 133
rotten snow and ice, 165
Rouse, Al, 443, 443–444, 447, 449, 466, 469, 477, 518
passed over, for Everest expedition, 466–468, 469
Rowland, Clive, 337
S
Sarakyaguqi, 443
Sarwat, Major, 424, 426, 434, 436, 436–437
schools, climbing, 150, 341, 388, 413
Scott, Doug, 196–197, 199, 228, 242, 261, 335–336, 336–337, 413, 468
and Chris Bonington, 382–383
climbing career, 289
and Don Whillans, 200–201
falls, 210–211
injured, 357–359, 361–362
on K2, 368, 379–380, 422
Kangchenjunga expedition, 387–388
on Kangchenjunga expedition, 390–391, 397
Scottish climbers, 95–96
Scottish Mountaineering Club, 96
Seifert, Ruth, 309, 445
seige style expeditions, 425, 444–445
shelters. see bivouacs
Sherpas, 153, 154, 156–157, 160, 160–161, 233, 398, 511
deaths, 246–247, 411
first Everest expedition, 203–204, 208, 213, 214, 215, 216
Kangchenjunga expedition, 396, 398, 410–411, 412
religious practices, 396
save Bonington, 208–209
second Everest expedition, 243, 244, 245, 249, 276
Shining Mountain, The (Boardman), 414, 470
Shipton, Eric, 87–88, 88, 228
Shroud, The, 11, 98
Smith, Robin, 95–96, 96–97
snow caves, for shelter, 115, 116, 118, 270, 349, 350, 354–355, 362, 402, 406, 461, 478, 479, 479–480
snow, climbing in, 428–430, 432–434
Southwest Pillar of Dru (Bonatti Pillar). see Bonatti Pillar (Southwest Pillar of Dru)
spindrift, 110
sponsorship. see financing, of expeditions
Sunday Times, 243
supplies, lost, 178, 213, 214–215
supplies, transporting, 114, 115, 142
T
Tasker, Joe, 287, 288
as author and lecturer, 447, 470–471
childhood and family, 291–293, 309
and Chris Bonington, 451–452
climbing school, 413
death, 429–432, 500–501, 504–505
Dunagiri expedition, 295–305
early climbs, 294
education, 292–293
on Everest, 447
illness and injuries, 494, 495
on K2, 369, 370, 422, 429–432, 436, 437
Kangchenjunga expedition, 387–388, 402–403, 407–408
on Kongur, 445, 447, 448, 449, 462
and Maria Coffey, 423, 437, 437–438, 471–472
personality, 293–294, 320
and Peter Boardman, 306–307, 308, 320
plans Changabang climb, 307–308
reputation, 336
vision, and blindness, 304–305, 309
Tenzing Norgay, 15–16, 91–92, 242, 512
Thompson, Mike, 153, 155, 161, 170, 241, 261
Tibetan refugees, 415–416
Tighe, Tony, 202, 220–224, 247–248, 386
Tilman, Bill, 87, 228
Tiso, Graham, 214–215, 240
Towers of Paine
, 57, 73–74, 75, 76, 77, 413
Trango Tower, Karakoram, 273, 335, 338
V
verglass, 15
vertigo, 110, 163
W
Ward, Michael, 445, 446
Western Cwm, 203
Whillans Box, 79, 157
Whillans, Don, 16–18, 19–20, 27–28, 33, 74
aging, 468–469
and Chris Bonington, 34–35, 62–63, 74, 80, 151–152, 199–200, 206, 387
climbing career, 41–42, 43, 80, 150–151, 175–176, 193
and climbing establishment, 36, 37–38
climbing skills, 81, 160, 163, 200
discovers climbing, 38–39
and Dougal Haston, 160
excluded, from Bonington’s team, 201
Gauri Sankar expedition, 413
marriage, 40–41, 58, 341, 468
motorcycle accident, 41
on Mount Everest, 195, 196
personality, 74, 151, 156, 199–201, 468
retired from climbing, 341
spots the Yeti, 155–156
as team leader, 200
work, 39–40
Whittal, Audrey, 40–41, 58, 341
Wragg, Martin, 287, 288–289
Y
yak route, 513
yaks, 475, 476, 477
Yeti, 155–156
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
CLINT WILLIS has published more than 40 books, including Epic: Stories of Survival From the World’s Highest Peaks and Jesus is not a Republican. His writing has been nominated for the American Society of Magazine Editors’ National Magazine Award, and was a finalist for the Banff Mountain Literature Award. Clint has been a climber since he was ten years old. He lives in Maine.
First published in Great Britain in 2006
Published as eBook in the United Kingdom in 2014 by Portico
An imprint of Pavilion Books Company Ltd
1 Gower Street
London
WC1E 6HD
Published in the United States by Carroll & Graf Publishers
Copyright © 2006, 2008 Clint Willis
The moral right of the author has been asserted.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.
eISBN 978-1-910232-19-4
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