by Wade Davis
Ra Chu, 257, 258, 263, 267, 269, 281
Raeburn, Harold, 144, 146, 153, 154, 159, 160, 165, 201, 204, 205, 206, 233, 369, 377, 492; appointed climbing leader, 130–1, 135, 141; assault on Everest and (1921), 342, 346, 347, 348, 351, 352, 360; descent into madness of, 130–1, 398, 470; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363, 364; expedition rejoined by, 340–1; invalided to Sikkim, 234, 236, 259–60, 310, 336, 364, 370, 456; journeying across Tibet, 221, 223–6, 234; Mallory’s opinion of, 216, 234, 341, 346; route taken into Tibet by, 207–8; temperament of, 130
Ragyabas, 59
Rajputs, 72
Ram, Pundit Hari, 63–4, 212, 255, 321
Ramakrishna, 62
Ramsay, G., 190
Rapiu La, 416, 417, 427
Raven Crag, 471
Rawling, Cecil, 63, 64–7, 75, 76, 80, 84, 86, 87, 94, 101, 136, 139, 144, 207, 210, 211, 212, 491; death of, 97; Everest first seen by, 65, 69; wartime experiences of, 87–8, 96–7, 104
Rawlinson, Lord Henry, 30, 481
Read, Herbert, 93, 198, 347
Reade, H. V., 178
Reading, Lord, 204
Rendall, G. H., 181, 182–3
Rhodes, Cecil, 167
Rhombu, 483
Richards, Tap, 569, 570
rifles, 14, 16, 28
Rin-chen Lha-mo, 117
Rinjia Namgya, 267
Ri-Ring, 281, 282, 292
Robertson, David, 176, 465–6
Robertson, Donald, 8, 9
Rodakowski, Raymond, 183
Roerich, Nicholas, 247–8
Roman Empire, 47
Ronaldshay, Lord, 123, 203, 204, 205, 206, 457, 560
Rongbuk Chu, Rongbuk Valley, 276, 281, 282, 286, 292, 293, 302, 306, 407, 498; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 259–63, 269; as possible route for assault on Everest (1921), 334, 336; Wheeler’s survey of, 307, 310, 329–34
Rongbuk Glacier, xvi, 311, 402, 430; alpine camp on (First Advanced Camp), 274, 275–6, 279–80, 287, 407; Howard-Bury and Heron’s visit to camp on, 279–80; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 273–84, 286–92, 305, 306, 328–30; 1922 expedition’s move up, 402–3, 404, 406–8; Second Advanced Camp at snout of, 287, 291; speedy flow of, 290; spike camp on, 290. See also East Rongbuk Valley and Glacier
Rongbuk Monastery, 269–73, 491; Buddhist seekers attracted to environs of, 268, 269, 270–2, 279, 367, 406; Mani Rimdu ritual at, 446–7; mural painted after 1922 expedition at, 499–500; 1921 expedition and, 258, 259, 269–70, 272–3, 275, 279, 280, 287, 291, 293, 330, 367; 1922 expedition and, 402, 404–6, 446–7; 1924 expedition and, 491, 496, 497, 498–500, 502, 509, 510–12, 553; permanent structures at, 271, 272; rituals at, believed to irritate demons of Everest, 409, 418. See also Dzatrul Rinpoche
Rong Chu, 258
Rongli, 214–15
Rongshar Chu, Rongshar Valley, 258, 259, 264, 267–9, 322–3, 367
Roof Climber’s Guide to Trinity, The, 8
Room with a View, A (Forster), 173
rope technology, 571, 572
Rothermere, Lord, 95
Rothschild, Charles, 137
Rothschild, Lionel de, 157
Round Kangchenjunga (Freshfield), 69
Rowlatt Acts, 390
Royal Air Force (RAF), 147, 384–5
Royal Army Medical Corps (RAMC), 17–23; extent of casualties treated by, 18–19, 20–1; retrieval of wounded from front and, 17–18; Somme offensive and, 31–4
Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, 157
Royal Flying Corps, 93, 112, 149, 189
Royal Geographical Society (RGS), 54, 67, 68, 69, 70, 74, 75, 77, 83, 85–7, 109–10, 124, 125, 126, 144–5, 148, 218, 320, 522–3; Bruce’s address to (1920), 131; Curzon awarded Gold Medal of, 40; financing of Everest expeditions and, 156, 394, 456; generational rift among climbers and, 457; joint meeting of Alpine Club and (1922), 457–8; Kellas’s paper delivered to (1916), 78–9; Mallory and Irvine memorialized at joint meeting of Alpine Club and, 560–1; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 555–6; naming of Everest and, 45–6; Noel’s address to (1919), 86–7, 93, 95–6, 99–100, 382; Wollaston’s public report to (1921), 366; Younghusband’s inaugural address to (1920), 109–10
Royal Horticultural Society, 157
Royal Navy, 4, 47, 91
Rujé monastery, Tibet, 65
Russell, Bertrand, 173, 186
Russell, Scott, 148, 151–2, 461
Russia, Russian Empire: British relations with, 51, 52–3, 54, 57, 60, 74, 118; Howard-Bury’s travels in, 103, 104; Tibetan relations with, 52–3, 57, 60, 118; in World War I, 88, 91, 106, 133. See also Soviet Union
Russian Revolution, 294
Ruttledge, Hugh, 474, 564
Ruwenzori Mountains, 137–8
Ryder, Charles, 63, 64–7, 76, 86, 158–9, 161, 207, 210, 212, 228, 367, 470
Sakeding, Tibet, 338
Salkeld, Audrey, 567
Samchung La, 309, 325
Samye, 247
Sanders, Cottie (later known as Ann Bridge), 5–6, 171, 178–80, 181
Sanders, Jack, 186, 187
Sangay, 445, 552
Sangkar Ri, 400–1
Sanglar, 508
Sanglu, 327, 328, 349, 350, 354
Sassoon, Siegfried, 29, 30, 93, 98, 183, 188, 195, 200
Sayle, Charles, 172, 173, 176
scarlet fever, 367
Scott, C. P., 95
Scott, Kathleen, 479
Scott, Robert Falcon, 128, 383, 479, 487, 488
Secret War Propaganda Bureau, 94–5
Sedongchen, Tibet, 215, 396–7
Sella, Vittorio, 383
Semchumbi, 532, 533
Serpo La, 53, 55, 56, 80, 81, 206, 260, 340–1, 363, 364, 441, 491
17th Lancers, Regimental Journal of, 158
Shackleton, Sir Ernest, 110, 128, 129, 130, 455
Shakespeare, William, 191
Shakyamuni, 246, 252, 271, 304
Shamsherpun, 508, 509, 552
Shangri-La, Western notion of, 248, 254
Shao La, 325, 326, 362
Shaw, George Bernard, 181, 182, 212
Shebbeare, Edward Oswald, 476, 482, 486, 493, 523, 524, 526, 556, 564; final campaign of 1924 expedition and, 527–8, 542, 548, 551; first failed campaign and, 501, 505, 506; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 487, 488, 489, 495, 496; second failed campaign and, 514, 519, 521, 522
Shegar, Tibet, 244–9, 272, 336, 367, 405; complex story to, 246–7; 1921 expedition’s route through, 244–6, 247–9, 250, 252, 255, 257, 260, 298; 1922 expedition’s route through, 396, 400, 402, 403, 451, 493; 1924 expedition’s route through, 494, 496–7; Shining Crystal Monastery of, 244–7, 271, 275, 298, 367, 402, 497
shells, high-explosive, 16
shell shock, 13, 98, 99
Sherpas, 73, 204, 249, 259, 271, 409, 431; British climbers’ lack of understanding of, 526–7; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s blessing of, 498, 509, 510–12; elite, for high camps (1924), 483, 501, 523, 526; first failed campaign and (1924), 501–10, 511; Kellas’s reliance on, 78–9, 80, 83, 140; killed by avalanche (1922), xv, 3, 443–6, 450–3, 483, 504; motivations of Everest climbers as viewed by, 500; stranded on North Col (1924), 518–22
Sherriff, R. C., 194
Shigatse, Tibet, 48, 64, 108
Shiling, Tibet, 224, 364, 401, 402, 496
Shipki La, 67
Shipton, Eric, 564, 566
Shiva, 66
Shuckburgh, J. E. (John), 124, 131–2
Shung Chu, 268
Siebe Gorman, 386–7, 478, 487
Sikhdar, Radhanath, 45
Sikhs, 46, 55, 56, 72, 295
Sikkim, 47, 49, 53, 55, 76, 80, 83, 112, 114, 116, 203, 206, 207, 212, 214, 216, 236, 248, 364, 382, 563; British annexation of, 52; Raeburn invalided to, 234, 236, 259–60, 310, 364, 370
Sikkim, maharaja of, 123, 340, 563
S. W. Silver & Co., 386
Simla, India, 50, 67, 204; Howard-Bury’s mission to, 111–14
Sim
la Convention (1914), 121–2
Simonson, Eric, 567, 569
Singh, Gujjar, 226–8, 260, 286, 304, 363
Singh, Nain, 49–50
Sinha, Lord, 110, 111
sky burial, 59, 116, 248, 270, 455
Slingsby, Hilton Laurence, 6
Smith, Rev. J. H., 39
Smith, W. H., 157
smoking, Finch’s belief in beneficial effect of, 431–2
Smythe, Frank, 471–2, 474, 564
snow blindness, 308; Norton afflicted with, xvi, 534, 535–6, 538, 539, 540
“Soldier, The” (Brooke), 188
Solly, Godfrey, 39
Solu Khumbu, 78, 204, 249, 255, 257, 271, 409
Somers-Cock, Edward, 126, 456
Somervell, Howard, 19–21, 380–2, 403, 409, 410, 412, 437, 450, 456, 458, 470, 481, 485, 488, 493, 526, 552, 561, 567, 569; climbing ability of, 380, 381; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 512, 517, 525, 527; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; family background of, 19; filling in as medical officer for 1924 expedition, 491, 492; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, xv–xvi, 527–8, 530–7, 538, 539, 543, 546, 550, 551, 557; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first failed campaign and, 505–6, 507, 508, 509, 512; frostbitten airways of, 536; Graham’s dismissal and, 473; on Hazard’s temperament, 512; hemoglobin tests conducted by, 502; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 395, 396–7, 398–9, 400–1, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 490, 491, 492, 493, 496, 497; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 551, 556; as medical officer in war, 17, 19, 20–1, 22, 31, 32, 381, 396, 478–9; medical practice in India of, 382, 449; passed over for 1921 expedition, 153; personality and demeanor of, 380; religious beliefs of, 19–20, 21, 380, 381, 416; ruling on fitness of, for third summit assault (1922), 438, 439; score for Noel’s film Climbing Mount Everest written by, 449, 471; second failed campaign and (1924), 514, 517, 518, 519–21, 522; selection of 1922 team and, 371; selection of 1924 team and, 461–2, 471–2; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443, 444–5, 446, 452–3; summit attempt of (May 1922), 413–16, 417–28, 437, 438, 533; summit attempt of (June 1922), 438, 439, 441–6, 451–3; summit attempt of (1924), xv–xvi, 530–7, 543, 557; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 388; in years after expedition, 382, 449, 458
Somervell, Leslie, 3
Somme offensive (1916), 23–37, 92, 96, 106, 128, 187, 195, 196, 211, 381, 396, 478; as biggest disaster in history of British arms, 31; British infantry attack in, 29–31, 35–6; British mortars and mines in, 35, 191; communications inadequacies in, 24, 35–6; documentary film on, 383–4; German defenses and, 27–8, 29, 34–5; German machine gun fire in, 28, 30, 31, 36; Haig’s plan for, 23–4, 25–6, 27, 29, 30, 36; heavy casualties at, 24, 30–1, 36–7; Howard-Bury’s description of battlefield in, 104–5; Mallory’s experiences in, 190–3; Morris’s experiences in, 374–5; Newfoundland Regiment in, 28, 33–6, 381; newspaper reports on, 33; Odell’s experiences in, 475; preliminary bombardment in, 24, 25, 26–7, 29, 30, 35, 36, 191; quality of British troops and, 24–5; tending to wounded in, 31–4, 381
Sorley, Charles, 89
Soviet Union, 210, 448, 454. See also Russia, Russian Empire
Spencer, Sydney, 130, 148, 461, 462, 472, 473, 556, 557, 560
Spender, Stephen, 201
Sphere, 556
Spinchilla Narai, 376
Spirt of Man, The (Bridges, editor), 94, 416, 492, 507, 560
Spitsbergen, 371, 475, 477, 478
Spring Offensive of 1918, 91, 106–7, 195–6
Stead, W. T., 172
Stephen, Adrian, 185, 186
Stephen, Leslie, 176
Stephen, Virginia, 185
Strachey, Alix Sargant-Florence, 200
Strachey, James, 173, 174, 182, 200; Mallory’s relationship with, 175–6, 177, 180–1, 183
Strachey, Lytton, 163, 173, 174, 176, 180, 182, 183, 186
Strutt, Edward Lisle (Bill), 371, 377, 379–80, 381, 386, 388, 389, 453, 458, 462, 470, 480, 560; advanced camps and, 408, 411, 412, 416, 417, 418; Austrian royal family rescued by, 380; evacuated to Darjeeling, 440–1, 446, 450; Finch’s assessment of, 390; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 395, 402, 407–8; Mallory’s opinion of, 380; personality and demeanor of, 379; return home of (1922), 450; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–1, 456; summit attempts and, 417–18, 419, 426, 427, 428, 438, 440; Tibet and Tibetans disliked by, 397; wartime experiences of, 379
Stubendorff Mountains, 477
stupas, 243, 261–2, 272
Sudan, 137, 166
Sunday Pictorial, 95
Sunlight Soap, 158
Sun Yat-sen, 48, 120
Survey of India, 43–6, 126, 154, 204, 206–10, 229, 458, 557; curvature of globe and, 43–4; mapping of Himalaya and, 44–6, 86, 206–8, 209–10, 264–6, 365–7 (see also Everest expedition of 1921—survey missions of); naming of mountains and, 45–6; new photographic methodology adopted by, 264, 265–6; 1924 expedition and, 470; Tibetan suspicions about, 366–7, 389, 395; traditional field techniques of, 264–5; without formal role in 1922 expedition, 367, 389
Sutlej, 66, 67
Swiss guides, 70, 74
Sykes, Sir Frederick, 110
Tamding, 508–9
Tang dynasty, 252
Tang La, 56, 60, 68, 224, 225, 398
Taoism, 103–4
Tasang, Tibet, 268, 269, 323
Tashi Dzong, 303
Tashi Lhumpo monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, 48, 64
Tashirak River, 82, 83, 382
Tashishong, Tibet, 321
Tatsang, Tibet, 226, 227, 399, 489
Taylor, A. J. P., 96
tea, Tibetan, 220, 239, 405, 447
Teesta River, Teesta Valley, 55, 80, 81, 123, 206, 207, 213, 363, 364, 394
Tejbir Bura, 428–33, 435, 437, 441, 481, 501
Temba, 445, 552
Tenchadder, 492
Teng, monastery at, 447
Tengboche, 272
Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 8
Tenzing Norgay, 277, 282, 370, 565
Thankay, 445, 552
Thapa, Hari Singh, 470, 557
Thompson, Charles Eric, 456
Thompson, Harold, 187
Thompson, Rupert, 288–9
Thong La, 320
Tibet, 47–53; access to Everest through, 74, 75, 86, 100, 108, 109, 111–13, 123–4, 125, 160, 366, 382, 440, 457, 564; arms and ammunition shipments to, 111–12, 113, 115, 121–2, 123, 124, 440; British relations with, 48, 49, 51, 52–3, 55–61, 101, 111–13, 114, 118–24; Buddhism’s early history in, 246, 252–4; as buffer between Raj and Russia, 51; character of ethnic Tibetans and, 73; Chinese invasion of (1905–10), 75, 119–20; Chinese relations with, 48, 49, 53, 59, 75, 113, 115, 116, 118–22, 252, 255, 564, 565; complaints about behavior of 1921 expedition in, 366–8, 389, 395; currency issues and, 486; customs and rituals in, 59, 116, 247–8, 270, 402, 446–7, 455; gift customs in, 222; governance in, 48; history of, 47–8; Howard-Bury’s unsanctioned travels in, 103; Indian surveyors in, 49–50; invasion of (Younghusband Mission of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247; mysticism and, 247–8; mystique of, 48, 60–2, 248, 254; natural resources of, 85; Noel’s exploration of, 81–3; Noel’s The Epic of Everest and, 562–4; prohibition of killing of wildlife in, 269–70, 366, 367, 406; Rawling expedition in, 63, 64–7; Russian relations with, 52–3, 57, 60; sacred sites in, 66–7, 112, 252, 253–4, 258, 259, 261–2, 264, 268, 269–73, 299–302, 304, 305, 321–2, 323; Simla Convention of 1914 and, 121–2; social conditions in, 49, 247, 248; social reforms and modernization in, 120–1, 122; sounds of, 396–7, 471, 562
Tibetan Book of the Dead, The, 247
Tibet the Mysterious (Holdich), 85–6
Tien Shan, 103–4
Times (London), 33, 54, 59, 60, 89, 92, 94, 95, 98, 188, 193, 248, 353, 454; articles on 1924 expedition in, 479, 480; Bruce interviewed by, 454–5; Bruce’s report
s to, 408, 437, 451; exclusivity agreement with, 158, 159, 459; Howard-Bury’s reports to, 248, 353, 364–5; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 555–6, 557–8; Mallory’s article on avalanche disaster in, 453, 454; Mallory’s last public pronouncement in, 525; Norton’s dispatches in, 506; RGS financial scandal and, 456
Tingri, Tibet (Tingri Dzong), 271; as base for first phase of reconnaissance, 208, 254–60, 280, 285, 286, 291, 293, 303–6, 307, 320; Buddhist origins of, 252; description of, 254–5, 303–4; lodgings for British in, 255–6; Mallory, Bullock, and Wollaston’s arrivals in, 259–60; 1921 expedition’s route to, 208, 223, 224, 234, 236, 245, 250, 251, 257, 298, 402, 448
Tingri Plain, 64, 65–6, 263, 303, 305, 306
Tinki Dzong, Tibet, 236–7, 238, 396, 397, 493, 494
Ti Rinpoche, 61–2
Tissandier, Gaston, 125–6
Tomlinson, H. M., 107
Tongsa Penlop, 59
Trangso Chumbab, Tibet, 243
Trevelyan, George, 5–6, 94, 170, 174, 467
Treves, Sir Frederick, 20
Trisong Detsän, King, 252
Trisul, 452
Trulshik Rinpoche, 271
Tsakor, Tibet, 250
Tsamda, hot springs at, 305
Tsangpo River and Gorge, 207, 257, 263, 305; Kinthup mission and, 50, 209; Morshead’s exploration of, 209–10, 258; Rawling expedition and, 63, 64–7, 75, 210, 258
Tsarong Shapé, 563
Tsibri, 305
Tsong-du (National Assembly of Tibet), 48
Tuna, Tibet, 57, 225, 489
Turkey, 232. See also Gallipoli campaign
Turkistan, 49, 51
Turner, Ruth. See Mallory, Ruth Turner
Turner, Thackeray, 184, 458, 466, 467
Uchung, 520
Ugyen, 267
Umar Gurung, 481, 503
United States: Mallory’s lecture tour in, 464–6; in World War I, 106, 196
University Club (New York), 466
Unna, P. J. H., 147
untouchables, 73
Uppingham, 187
Vankinsburgh, F., 128
Vatican, 480
Verdun, battle of (1916), 97
Versailles Treaty (1919), 200, 380
Victoria, Queen, 41, 42, 47
Victorian England, 174
Wager, Bill, 564, 566
Wakefield, Arthur (known as Waker and Archdeacon), 3, 4–5, 13–15, 153, 370–1, 381, 389, 445, 448, 456, 458, 470; climbing ability of, 381, 439–40, 452; Crawford accidentally overdosed by, 435–6; decommissioning and return to Canada of, 37, 153; depression and nervous anxiety suffered by, 381; duties of expedition medical officer performed by, 381, 399, 408, 412, 428, 435–6, 439, 440; Finch’s assessment of, 390; at FRCC memorial ceremony, 3, 4–5, 38, 39; harsh judgments of, 381; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394–5, 396, 398–9, 400–1, 407–8; Longstaff evacuated by, 413, 414; as medical officer in war, 16–17, 21–3, 26, 28, 31–2, 33–4, 37–8, 381; in Newfoundland and Labrador, 13–14; porters escorted to advanced camps by, 411, 416; selection of 1921 team and, 153, 370–1; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443–4, 446; Somme offensive and, 26, 28, 31–2, 33–4, 381; summit attempts and, 418, 419, 426, 427, 435–6, 439–40, 441, 442, 452; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 388
