The Taste of War: World War II and the Battle for Food

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by Lizzie Collingham


  9 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 88.

  10 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, pp. 113–15.

  11 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 9, Case 118, pp. 34–5.

  12 Ibid., p. 38.

  13 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 3.

  14 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 113.

  15 Ibid., p. 127; War Office, Record of Ration Scales, p. 12.

  16 Dunn, The Soviet Economy, pp. 56–7.

  17 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 120.

  18 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 27, Case 528, p. 11.

  19 Merridale, Ivan’s War, pp. 147–8.

  20 Ibid., p. 120.

  21 Dunn, The Soviet Economy, p. 201.

  22 Ibid., p. 197.

  23 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 9, Case 118, pp. 37–8.

  24 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 127.

  25 Braithwaite, Moscow 1941, p. 324.

  26 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, pp. 123–4.

  27 Bellamy, Absolute War, p. 525.

  28 Ibid.

  29 Beevor, Stalingrad, p. 155.

  30 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 125.

  31 Beevor, Stalingrad, p. 280.

  32 Steinhoff et al., Voices, p. 129.

  33 Overy, Why the Allies Won, p. 82.

  34 Beevor, Stalingrad, p. 335.

  35 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 30, Case 641, p. 17.

  36 Ibid.

  37 Ibid.

  38 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 205.

  39 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 131.

  40 Simmons and Perlina, Writing the Siege of Leningrad, p. 198.

  41 Ibid.

  42 Fitzpatrick, Everyday Stalinism, p. 40.

  43 Helmut Geidel, interviewed January 2007.

  44 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 98.

  45 Bartov, Hitler’s Army, pp. 7, 26.

  46 Steinhoff et al., Voices, p. 214.

  47 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 5.

  48 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 30, Case 641, p. 35.

  49 Trentmann, ‘Coping with shortage’, p. 24.

  50 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 33, Case 454, pp. 24–5.

  51 Fitzpatrick, Everyday Stalinism, p. 41.

  52 Braithwaite, Moscow 1941, p. 27.

  53 Overy, Why the Allies Won, p. 181.

  54 Erickson, ‘Soviet women at war’, p. 54; Overy, Russia’s War, p. 170.

  55 Two million shells were produced against a target of 6 million. Dunn, The Soviet Economy, pp. 33, 36.

  56 ‘Production of shoes dropped from 211 million pairs in 1940 to only 63 million pairs in 1945.’ Dunn, The Soviet Economy, p. 31.

  57 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 78–9, 132–4.

  58 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 388.

  59 Sakharov, Memoirs, pp. 47–8.

  60 Rush, Memoir, NLA MS 8316, pp. 177–8.

  61 Ibid., pp. 178–9.

  62 Braithwaite, Moscow 1941, p. 339.

  63 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 388.

  64 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 204–5.

  65 Harrison, Accounting for War, p. 170.

  66 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 144.

  67 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 2.

  68 Ibid., p. 138.

  69 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 15, Case 305, p. 75.

  70 Harrison, ‘The Second World War’, p. 266.

  71 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 81.

  72 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 149.

  73 Ibid.

  74 Erickson, ‘Soviet women at war’, p. 53.

  75 Keyssar and Pozner, Remembering War, p. 92.

  76 Bidlack, ‘Survival strategies in Leningrad’, p. 93.

  77 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 173.

  78 Sakharov, Memoirs, pp. 52–3.

  79 Ibid., p. 53.

  80 Ibid.

  81 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 142.

  82 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 138.

  83 Harrison, ‘The Second World War’, pp. 262–3.

  84 Overy, Russia’s War, p. 226.

  85 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, pp. 227–8.

  86 Tolley, Caviar and Commissars, p. 115.

  87 Ibid.

  88 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 65.

  89 The maximum number of German divisions fighting in Italy never reached thirty. Ron Klages and John Mulholland, ‘Number of German divisions by front in World War II’, Axis History Factbook, http://www.axishistory.com/index.php?id=7288.

  90 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 159–60.

  91 Overy, Russia’s War, p. 329.

  92 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 159–60, 186, 204–5.

  93 Bacon, The Gulag at War, p. 137.

  94 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 164–5.

  95 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 27, Case 524, pp. 13–15.

  96 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 413.

  97 Ibid., p. 389.

  98 Ibid., p. 401.

  99 Ibid., p. 413.

  100 Ibid., p. 414.

  101 Ibid., p. 394.

  102 Ibid., p. 397. Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 111.

  103 Fenby, Alliance, p. 21.

  104 Fitzpatrick, Everyday Stalinism, pp. 54–6.

  105 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 412.

  106 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 83–4.

  107 Erickson, ‘Soviet women at war’, p. 57.

  108 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 145.

  109 Ibid., p. 222.

  110 Sakharov, Memoirs, p. 53.

  111 Bidlack, ‘Survival strategies in Leningrad’, p. 96.

  112 Keyssar and Pozner, Remembering War, p. 94.

  113 Davies et al., The Economic Transformation, p. 263.

  114 Goldberg, ‘Intake and energy requirements’, p. 2095.

  115 Bidlack, ‘Survival strategies in Leningrad’, pp. 92, 95; Macintyre, ‘Famine and the female mortality advantage’, p. 250.

  116 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 37.

  117 Overy, Why the Allies Won, p. 183.

  118 Merridale, Ivan’s War, pp. 138–9; Overy, Russia’s War, pp. 188–92.

  119 Overy, Russia’s War, p. 191.

  120 Ibid., pp. 171, 212.

  121 Sajer, The Forgotten Soldier, p. 302.

  122 Overy, Russia’s War, pp. 193–4.

  123 Ibid., p. 210.

  124 Harrison, ‘The Second World War’, p. 244.

  125 Overy, Why the Allies Won, p. 183.

  126 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 224.

  127 Wettlin, Russian Road, p. 97.

  128 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction., pp. 108–9.

  129 Rush, Memoir, NLA MS 8316, p. 217.

  130 Ibid., p. 218.

  131 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 224.

  132 Wettlin, Russian Road, p. 87.

  133 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 182; Ensminger et al., Foods and Nutrition Encyclo-pedia, II, p. 2332.

  134 Adamovich and Granin, A Book of the Blockade, pp. 53–4.

  135 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 83–4.

  136 2 September 1944, Alexander Papers, NLA, MS2389.

  137 Nove, ‘Soviet peasantry in World War II’, p. 85.

  138 Fitzpatrick, Everyday Stalinism, p. 57; 16 August 1944, Alexander Papers, NLA, MS2389.

  139 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 111.

  140 Wettlin, Russian Road, p. 85.

  141 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 163.

  142 Rush, Memoir, NLA MS 8316, p. 207.

  143 Ibid.

  144 Ibid., p. 210.

  145 Ibid., p. 215.

  146 Ibi
d., p. 216.

  147 Bengelsdorf, Die Landwirtschaft der Vereinigten Staaten, p. 319.

  148 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 117; Dunn, The Soviet Economy, pp. 86–7.

  149 Volin, A Century, p. 293.

  150 Erickson, The Road to Berlin, p. 84.

  151 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 117.

  152 Tolley, Caviar and Commissars, p. 80.

  153 Dunn, The Soviet Economy, p. 86.

  154 Rush, Memoir, NLA MS 8316, pp. 217–18.

  155 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 83.

  156 Bengelsdorf, Die Landwirtschaft der Vereinigten Staaten, p. 318.

  157 Tuyll, Feeding the Bear, p. 117.

  158 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 30, Case 639, pp. 53–4.

  159 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, p. 126.

  160 Ibid., p. 130.

  161 Ibid., p. 131.

  162 Ibid., p. 130.

  163 Ibid., pp. 126–8.

  164 Figes, The Whisperers, p. 441.

  165 Harvard Project on the Soviet Social System, Schedule A, Vol. 15, Case 305, pp. 71–2.

  166 Ibid., p. 43.

  167 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 78–9.

  168 Rush, Memoir, NLA MS 8316, p. 207.

  169 Moskoff, The Bread of Affliction, pp. 230–32.

  170 2 September 1944, 22 October 1944, Alexander Papers, NLA, MS2389.

  171 Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, pp. 87–8.

  172 Tolley, Caviar and Commissars, p. 149.

  173 Wheatcroft and Davies, ‘Population’, p. 78.

  174 Merridale, Ivan’s War, p. 165.

  175 Keyssar and Pozner, Remembering War, p. 62.

  176 Figes, The Whisperers, p. 416.

  177 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 389.

  178 Sakharov, Memoirs, p. 41.

  179 Kravchenko, I Chose Freedom, p. 361.

  180 Overy, Why the Allies Won, pp. 189–90; Barber and Harrison, The Soviet Home Front, p. 68.

  15. Germany and Britain – Two Approaches to Entitlement

  1 Curtis-Bennett, The Food of the People, p. 250.

  2 Beevor, Berlin, p. 39.

  3 Spiekermann, ‘Brown bread for victory’, p. 161.

  4 Ibid.

  5 Mackay, Half the Battle, p. 202.

  6 Dewey, War and Progress, pp. 130, 150.

  7 Laybourn, Britain on the Breadline, p. 61.

  8 Dewey, War and Progress, p. 258.

  9 Laybourn, Britain on the Breadline, p. 43.

  10 Webster, ‘Healthy or hungry’, p. 117.

  11 Ibid., pp. 118, 120.

  12 Laybourn, Britain on the Breadline, p. 63.

  13 Dewey, War and Progress, p. 150.

  14 Mayhew, ‘The 1930s nutrition controversy’, p. 455.

  15 Ibid., pp. 122–3.

  16 Bosworth, ‘Eating for the nation’, p. 227.

  17 Jonsson, ‘Changes in food consumption’, pp. 25, 40–41.

  18 Laybourn, Britain on the Breadline, pp. 62–3.

  19 Burnett, Plenty and Want, p. 281.

  20 Orr, As I Recall, p. 115.

  21 Mayhew, ‘The 1930s nutrition controversy’, pp. 457–8.

  22 Webster, ‘Healthy or hungry’, p. 117.

  23 Ibid., pp. 116–17.

  24 Staples, The Birth of Development, pp. 72–4.

  25 Crew, ‘General introduction’, p. 8.

  26 Huegel, Kriegsernährungswirtschaft Deutschlands, p. 261; Berghoff, ‘Methoden der Verbrauchslenkung’, pp. 283, 287–8.

  27 Huegel, Kriegsernährungswirtschaft Deutschlands, p. 285.

  28 Corni, Hitler and the Peasants, p. 170.

  29 Proctor, The Nazi War on Cancer, pp. 125–6.

  30 Spiekermann, ‘Vollkorn für die Führer’, p. 94.

  31 Ibid., p. 95.

  32 Spiekermann, ‘Brown bread for victory’, pp. 150–51.

  33 Ibid., p. 153.

  34 Ibid., p. 151.

  35 Huegel, Kriegsernährungswirtschaft Deutschlands, p. 287.

  36 Reagin, ‘Marktordnung and autarkic housekeeping’, p. 171.

  37 Collins, The Alien Years, p. 45.

  38 Ibid.

  39 Gruchmann, ‘Korruption’, p. 576.

  40 Collins, The Alien Years, pp. 45–6.

  41 Ibid., p. 46.

  42 Gordon, ‘Fascism, the neo-right and gastronomy’, pp. 84–5.

  43 Corni, Hitler and the Peasants, pp. 50–3.

  44 Hachtman, ‘Lebenshaltungskosten’, p. 50.

  45 Hinze, ‘“Die ungewöhnlich geduldigen Deutschen”’, p. 47.

  46 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, pp. 192–3.

  47 Hachtman, ‘Lebenshaltungskosten’, p. 52; Baten and Wagner, ‘Autarchy, market disintegration and health’, p. 19.

  48 Huegel, Kriegsernährungswirtschaft Deutschlands, p. 285.

  49 Collins, The Alien Years, p. 26.

  50 Geyer, ‘Soziale Sicherheit’, p. 392; Mason, Social Policy in the Third Reich, p. 132.

  51 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, p. 709.

  52 Baten and Wagner, ‘Autarchy, market disintegration and health’, p. 22. There are historians who argue that the workers’ diet improved under the National Socialists. Farquharson states that between 1934 and 1937 Germans increased their consumption of white flour, sugar and butter by almost one-quarter, and that meat consumption went up by 11 per cent. Farquharson, ‘The agrarian policy’, p. 244.

  53 Reagin, ‘Marktordnung and autarkic housekeeping’, p. 166; Baten and Wagner, ‘Autarchy, market disintegration and health’, p. 2.

  54 Proctor, The Nazi War on Cancer, p. 125.

  55 Haffner, Defying Hitler, p. 17.

  56 Ibid.

  57 Baten and Wagner, ‘Autarchy, market disintegration and health’, pp. 3–8, 22–4.

  58 Gumpert, Heil Hunger!, p. 76.

  59 On the lack of statistical information in Germany see Von der Decken, ‘Die Ernährung in England und Deutschland’, pp. 198–9.

  60 Heim, Kalorien, Kautschuk, Karrieren, p. 107; Corni and Gies, Brot, Butter, Kanonen, p. 556.

  61 Müller, ‘Die Mobilisierung der deutschen Wirtschaft’, p. 465.

  62 Lüdtke, ‘Hunger, Essens-“Genuß” und Politik’, p. 124.

  63 Kaplan, ‘Jewish daily life’, p. 397.

  64 Lucia and Peter Seidel in conversation with the author.

  65 Kaplan, ‘Jewish daily life’, p. 397.

  66 Ibid., pp. 397–8.

  67 Ibid., p. 404.

  68 Corni and Gies, Brot, Butter, Kanonen, p. 565.

  69 Gratzer, Terrors of the Table, p. 156.

  70 Burleigh, Death and Deliverance, p. 242.

  71 Ibid., p. 231.

  72 Ibid., pp. 241–2.

  73 Proctor, The Nazi War on Cancer, p. 171.

  74 Addison, Churchill, pp. 338–9; Mackay, Half the Battle, p. 53.

  75 Hammond, Food and Agriculture, pp. 19–20.

  76 Oddy, From Plain Fare, p. 148.

  77 Gardiner, The 1940s House, p. 125.

  78 Woolton, Memoirs, p. 218.

  79 Leff, ‘The politics of sacrifice’, p. 1301.

  80 Waller, London 1945, p. 88.

  81 Woolton, Memoirs, p. 218.

  82 Garfield, We Are at War, pp. 80, 298–9.

  83 Hammond, Food and Agriculture, pp. 232–3.

  84 Oddy, From Plain Fare, pp. 142–3.

  85 Woolton, Memoirs, p. 218.

  86 Roodhouse, ‘Popular morality’, p. 247.

  87 Burnett, Plenty and Want, p. 293.

  88 Bird, The First Food Empire, p. 175.

  89 Driver, The British at Table, p. 33.

  90 Sheridan, Wartime Women, pp. 148–9.

  91 Waller, London 1945, p. 198.

  92 Garfield, Private Battles, p. 290.

  93 Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Austerity in Britain, p. 74.

  94 Don Joseph, comments to http://www.woodlands-junior.kent.sch.uk/Homeword/war/rationing.htm.

  95 Hardyment, Slice of Life, p. 8.
r />   96 Burnett, Plenty and Want, p. 293.

  97 Doreen Laven, notes on wartime memories.

  98 Burnett, Plenty and Want, p. 295.

  99 Woolton, Memoirs, p. 212.

  100 Mackay, Half the Battle, p. 201.

  101 Burnett, Plenty and Want, p. 292.

  102 Mackay, Half the Battle, p. 202.

  103 Müller, ‘Die Mobilisierung der deutschen Wirtschaft’, p. 469; Corni and Gies, Brot, Butter, Kanonen, p. 556.

  104 Dörr, “Wer die Zeit nicht miterlebt hat …”, II, p. 11.

  105 Corni and Gies, Brot, Butter, Kanonen, p. 559.

  106 Stephenson, Hitler’s Home Front, p. 202.

  107 Rüther, Köln, p. 66.

  108 Müller, ‘Die Mobilisierung der deutschen Wirtschaft’, p. 465.

  109 Fritz, Frontsoldaten, p. 26.

  110 Müller, ‘Die Mobilisierung der deutschen Wirtschaft’, pp. 472–3.

  111 Werner, “Bleib übrig!”, p. 47.

  112 Ibid., p. 56.

  113 Ibid., pp. 127–8.

  114 Ibid., p. 48.

  115 Ibid., p. 128.

  116 Müller, ‘Die Mobilisierung der deutschen Wirtschaft’, p. 468.

  117 Werner, “Bleib übrig!”, pp. 126–7.

  118 Herbert, Hitler’s Foreign Workers, p. 158.

  119 Geyer, ‘Soziale Sicherheit’, p. 406.

  120 Kraut and Bramsel, ‘Der Calorienbedarf der Berufe’.

  121 Michaelis, ‘Über die Wirkung’; Droese, ‘Experimentalle Untersuchung’; Droese, ‘Die Wirkung von Traubenzucker’; Neumann, ‘Nutritional physiology’, p. 56.

  122 Proctor, The Nazi War on Cancer, p. 156.

  123 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, p. 517.

  124 Ibid., p. 540.

  125 Gratzer, Terrors of the Table, p. 156.

  126 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, p. 540.

  127 Herbert, Hitler’s Foreign Workers, p. 172.

  128 Ibid., p. 387.

  129 Lammers, ‘Levels of collaboration’, p. 53.

  130 Herbert, Hitler’s Foreign Workers, p. 183.

  131 Scharf, “Man machte mit uns, was man wollte”, pp. 118–19.

  132 Herbert, Hitler’s Foreign Workers, p. 85.

  133 Levi, If This is a Man, p. 80.

  134 Obenaus, ‘Hunger und Überleben’, p. 374.

  135 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, pp. 622–3; Evans, The Third Reich at War, pp. 664–5.

  136 Kopke, ‘Der “Ernährungsinspekteur der Waffen-SS”’, p. 213.

  137 Ibid., p. 215.

  138 Ibid., p. 216; Schmidt, Karl Brandt, p. 262.

  139 The papers of R. P. Evans, Department of Documents, IWM, p. 33.

  140 Ibid.

  141 Ibid., pp. 38–9.

  142 Tooze, The Wages of Destruction, p. 194.

  143 Roodhouse, ‘Popular morality’, p. 248.

 

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