25 Watt, A Dictionary, V, p. 100. See also: David, Spices, p. 84; Rick, ‘The tomato’, p. 67; Davidson, ‘Europeans’ wary encounter’, pp. 7–9; Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 83.
26 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 83.
27 Gandhi, The Collected Works, p. 40.
28 Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, pp. 4–8.
29 Mary Symonds, Gwillim Papers / 1.
30 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, pp. 90–102.
31 Parks, Wanderings, II, p. 230.
32 A Lady Resident, The Englishwoman in India, p. 33.
33 Blanchard, Yesterday and Today, p. 45.
34 Campbell-Martin, Out in the Mid-day Sun, p. 52; Bourne Papers, pp. 71–2.
35 Hall Papers.
36 Brennan, Curries and Bugles, p. 153.
37 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 47.
38 A Lady Resident, The Englishwoman in India, p. 45.
39 Lawrence, Indian Embers, p. 40.
40 Dench Papers, p. 50.
41 Champion Papers, p. 81.
42 The Art of Ceylon and Indian Cookery, p. 71.
43 Tandon, Punjabi Century, pp. 177–8.
44 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, pp. 12, 32–3, 44–5, 73.
45 Weeden, A Year, pp. 29–30, 58.
46 Rau and Devi, A Princess Remembers, p. 20.
47 Ibid., pp. 34, 52, 60.
48 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 67.
49 Deane, A Tour, pp. 101–2, 107–8.
50 Fitzroy Collection, 8b, pp. 1, 158, 162.
51 Cited by Brown, Modern India, p. 75.
52 Misra, The Indian Middle Classes, pp. 153–4; Heber, Narrative, p. 291.
53 Fryer, A New Account, II, p. 113.
54 Deane, A Tour, pp. 11–12.
55 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 86–7.
56 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 40.
57 Misra, The Indian Middle Classes, p. 200.
58 Raychaudhuri, Europe Reconsidered, p. 62.
59 Sinha, Colonial Masculinity, p. 22.
60 Hay, ‘Between two worlds’, p. 308; Fiddes, Meat, p. 67.
61 Cited by Fiddes, Meat, p. 67.
62 Hunt, Gandhi, pp. 5–6, 18.
63 Ibid., p. 9.
64 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 202.
65 Gandhi, The Collected Works, pp. 80, 93, 96.
66 Twigg, ‘Vegetarianism’, pp. 22–6.
67 Malabari, The Indian Eye, pp. 45–7.
68 Lahiri, Indians in Britain, p. 156.
69 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 211.
70 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 69.
71 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 41.
72 Lawrence, Indian Embers, p. 42.
73 Fitzroy Collection, 8b, pp. 46–7, 53.
74 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, pp. 97–8.
75 Rasul, Bengal to Birmingham, p. 8.
76 These can be seen at the house where he was assassinated in New Delhi which has a display of his personal possessions at the time of his death.
77 Bayley Papers, p. 3.
78 ‘Chota Sahib’, Camp Recipes, p. 53; Maureen Nunn in conversation with the author.
79 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 93.
80 Godden, A Time to Dance, p. 98; Margaret Orr Deas, Mrs Randhawa and Maureen Nunn in conversation with the author.
81 Rau and Devi, A Princess Remembers, p. 16.
82 Fus. H. Simons, ‘Army Cookery Notebook, 1944’; Eric Warren in correspondence with the author.
83 Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982; Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 19–20.
84 Margaret Orr Deas in conversation with the author.
85 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 8–9.
86 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 293.
87 Jo Sharma in correspondence with the author.
88 Dalrymple, City of Djinns, p. 135; author’s own meal at the Fairlawn Hotel, Sudder Street, Calcutta.
89 Menu from Bengal Club dinner, 29 December 2000 (with thanks to Chris Bayly).
90 Suri, ‘Bombay Dreams’, The Observer, 13 October 2002.
8 CHAI
1 Griffiths, The History, pp. 626–7.
2 Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, p. 43.
3 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 151.
4 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13; Srivastava, Social Life, pp. 11–12; Blake, ‘Cityscape’, p. 159.
5 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 199.
6 Hattox, Coffee, p. 79; Tavernier, Travels, II, p. 20.
7 Terry, A Voyage to East-India, pp. 106–7; Mahias, ‘Milk’, p. 280.
8 Scattergood et al., The Scattergoods, p. 71. The name Bohea for black tea comes from the European mispronunciation of Wu-i (pronounced ‘bu-i’ in Chinese), the name of the area which produced the tea.
9 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13.
10 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 306.
11 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, p. 331.
12 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 23.
13 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 306.
14 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 10.
15 Griffiths, The History, p. 16.
16 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
17 Kaye (ed.), The Golden Calm, p. 120.
18 Cited by Antrobus, A History, p. 17.
19 Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p. 3.
20 Ibid.; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 101–8.
21 Twining, The House of Twining, pp. 12, 16–17, 69.
22 Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, pp. 49–52.
23 Mayhew, London Labour, pp. 183, 193.
24 Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p. 5; Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, p. 57.
25 Griffiths, The History, p. 38.
26 Antrobus, A History, p. 14; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, p. 101.
27 Griffiths, The History, pp. 31–2.
28 Antrobus, A History, pp. 46–7; Griffiths, The History, pp. 50, 56; Weatherstone, The Pioneers, pp. 32–40.
29 Weatherstone, The Pioneers, p. 40.
30 Antrobus, A History, p. 65; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 141–8.
31 Griffiths, The History, pp. 97, 106.
32 Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 160–5; Sanyal, Record of Criminal Cases, pp. 25–40.
33 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 43.
34 Griffiths, The History, pp. 579, 582–3, 586–7; Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, pp. 61-2; Lahiri, Indians in Britain, p. 69.
35 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, p. 331; Gandhi, The Collected Works, p. 22.
36 Jo Sharma in conversation with the author.
37 Watt, Dictionary, IV, III, p. 475.
38 Weeden, A Year, p. 184.
39 Tea Association Records, / 922, p. 21.
40 Griffiths, The History, pp. 593, 601.
41 Ibid., pp. 606, 621.
42 Brennan, Curries and Bugles, p. 153; Sethi, ‘The creation of religious identities’, p. 78; Griffiths, The History, pp. 592–3.
43 Ukers, All About Tea, II, p. 324.
44 Griffiths, The History, p. 608.
45 Tea Association Records, / 924, p. 47.
46 Griffiths, The History, pp. 617–19, 626–7.
47 Anil Sethi in conversation with the author.
48 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 182.
49 Tea Association Records, / 924, pp. 46, 50; Griffiths, The History, pp. 608–9.
50 Tea Association Records, / 924, report on propaganda operations in India during the period 1 April 1939 to 31 December 1939; report 1 October 1940 to 30 September 1941; report October 1941 to September 1942; October 1942 to September 1943; October 1943 to September 1944; October 1944 to September 1945.
51 Hardyment, Slice of Life, p. 5.
52 Preston, A Yank’s Memories, Photo 934(54).
53 Tea Association Records, / 798, Notes on the Scheme for Development of Tea Propaganda in India by the Director of Propaganda (1955), pp. 3–4.
54 Weisberger and Comer, ‘Tea�
�, p. 716.
55 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
56 Beck, The Experience of Poverty, p. 140.
57 Weisberger and Comer, ‘Tea’, p. 716.
58 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
59 Beck, The Experience of Poverty, p. 140.
60 Tea Association Records, / 924, p. 47.
61 Pharmacopoeia, p. 181; Mahias, ‘Milk’, pp. 273–6.
62 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 35.
63 Tandon, Punjabi Century, pp. 16–17, 37, 73, 78.
64 Marriott, ‘Caste ranking and food transactions’, p. 169.
65 Carstairs, The Twice-Born, pp. 59, 234.
66 The Constitution of India (1950) made untouchability and its practice an offence. Mendelsohn and Vicziany, The Untouchables, pp. 118–27.
67 Sharma, Rampal, pp. 36–7.
68 Wadley, Struggling with Destiny, p. 224.
69 Forbes, India of the Princes, p. 272.
70 Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 102.
71 Kanigel, The Man, p. 21.
72 Pearson, Coastal Western India, p. 137; Wadley, Struggling with Destiny, p. 275.
73 Sharma, Rampal, pp. 36–7.
74 Mendelsohn and Vicziany, The Untouchables, pp. 120–7.
75 Busybee, ‘Trailing those charming cafés’, The Taj Magazine, 11, 2 (1982); Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 99.
76 Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 102.
77 Karkaria, Bachi J., ‘The incredible dabba connection’, The Taj Magazine, 10, 1 (1981).
78 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 110.
9 CURRY AND CHIPS
1 Srivastava, Social Life, p. 10; Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, p. 150.
2 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 7.
3 Sherwood, ‘Race, nationality and employment’, pp. 233–4.
4 Ibid., pp. 239–41; Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 149.
5 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 41–3.
6 Ibid., pp. 49, 60.
7 Ibid., p. 72; Choudhury (ed.), Sons of the Empire, pp. 29–30.
8 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 152.
9 Choudhury (ed.), Sons of the Empire, p. 30.
10 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 7.
11 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 76–7.
12 Ibid., p. 155.
13 Hosain, ‘Of memories and meals’, p. 141.
14 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, p. 66.
15 Ibid., p. 67.
16 Walton, Fish and Chips, p. 2.
17 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 157.
18 Walton, Fish and Chips, pp. 140, 153.
19 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 77, 80.
20 Ibid., pp. 80–1.
21 Ibid., pp. 39, 89.
22 Gardner, ‘Desh and bidesh’, pp. 1, 4, 13.
23 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 98–100.
24 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 197–8.
25 Cotta, A Heritage, foreword.
26 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 25.
27 Geraldine Bedell, Observer, 12 May 2002.
28 Emma Brockes, ‘Tikka trickery’, Guardian, 30 July 1999.
29 Visram, ‘South Asians’, p. 174.
30 Clark et al., South Asians, p. 17.
31 Gardner, ‘Desh and bidesh’, p. 7.
32 Basu, Curry in the Crown, pp. 27–32.
33 Malabari, The Indian Eye, p. 45.
34 Blaxter and Paterson, ‘The goodness’, p. 97.
35 Cotta, A Heritage, foreword; Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982. See also Good Housekeeping’s Casseroles and Curries, pp. 19–23.
36 Many of the citations from this paragraph are drawn from the Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982 which asked participants about food and gardening.
37 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 45.
38 Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty, pp. 217–19.
39 Hardyment, Slice of Life, pp. 89–95.
40 Ian Jack, ‘Remembrance of meals past’, Guardian Review, 24 April 2004, p. 7.
41 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 86–9, 105.
42 Margaret Orr Deas in conversation with the author.
43 Hardyment, A Slice of Life, p. 124.
44 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 105.
45 Williamson, East-India Vade-Mecum, II, p. 122.
46 Postgate (ed.), The Good Food Guide 1967–8, p. 500.
47 Petit, The Home Book, p. 19; Sethi, ‘The creation of religious identities’, p. 81.
48 See Chapman, The New Curry Bible, p. 59.
49 Lowe and Davidson, 100 Best Balti Curries.
50 Choudhury, Roots and Tales, pp. 101–3; Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 105.
51 Hardyment, A Slice of Life, p. 123.
52 Jaffrey, An Invitation, pp. 13–14; Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery, p. 7.
53 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, p. 32.
54 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 108–9.
55 Vickers, The European Ethnic Foods Market, p. 11.
56 Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982.
57 Basu, Curry in the Crown, pp. xxvii–viii, 48, 88.
58 Vickers, The European Ethnic Foods Market, pp. 19, 21.
59 Geraldine Bedell, ‘It’s curry’, Observer, 12 May 2002.
60 Advert for Observer in Guardian, 7 May 2002.
61 Bell, Consuming Geographies, p. 174.
62 Hartley, Food in England, p. 1; James, ‘How British’, pp. 83–4; James, ‘Cooking the books’, p. 91.
63 Kathryn Flett, ‘Star of India’, Observer, 11 February 2001.
64 Yasmin Alibhai-Brown, ‘Why the future may not be orange’, Guardian, 13 July 2001.
10 CURRY TRAVELS THE WORLD
1 Gardner, ‘Desh-Bidesh’, p. 11.
2 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, pp. 14, 16–17.
3 Kale, ‘Projecting identities’, p. 74.
4 Clark et al, South Asians, p. 8.
5 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, pp. 75, 153.
6 Mohammed Safiq in conversation with the author.
7 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, p. 23.
8 Higman, ‘Cookbooks’, pp. 82–3.
9 Lal, Mr Tulsi’s Store, p. 108.
10 School menu for the village of Lovoni, Ovalau, Fiji.
11 Lal, Mr Tulsi’s Store, pp. 92–3.
12 Clark, West Indian Cookery, pp. 73–4.
13 Melendy, Asians in America, pp. 185, 206–8, 238–40; Takaki, Strangers, pp. 63–5, 295–312.
14 Takaki, Strangers, p. 65.
15 Melendy, Asians in America, pp. 238–9; Takaki, Strangers, p. 305.
16 Takaki, Strangers, pp. 296–7.
17 Ibid., p. 311.
18 Ibid., pp. 309–10.
19 Ibid., p. 311.
20 Ibid., p. 312; LaBrack and Leonard, ‘Conflict and compatibility’, pp. 537, 533.
21 Kaiya and Hanasaki, Oishinbo.
22 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, pp. 8, 12; Travel Day Trip, Spice of Life @http://metropolis.japantoday.com.
23 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, p. 9.
24 Bayly and Harper, Forgotten Armies, pp. 5, 16; Kishi Asako, ‘Curry on rice’, Nipponia, 15 September 2001.
25 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, p. 10; Kaiya and Hanasaki, Oishinbo.
26 Japanese products @http://www.house-foods.com.
27 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, pp. 10–11.
28 Guardian, 6 March 2000.
29 This is Arjun Appadurai’s argument. See Appadurai, ‘How to make a national cuisine’.
30 Das Sreedharan, ‘Star of India’, Observer, 22 July 2001; Anil Sethi in conversation with the author.
Glossary
aji
Caribbean word for chilli pepper
aloo
potato
appam
spongy south Indian bread made from a batter of ground rice and lentils
Anglo-Indian
British person living in India. Nowadays this term is used to describe people of mixed British a
nd Indian descent, but before 1911 it was used to refer to the British in India and this is the sense in which it is used in this book
areca nut
astringent seed of the areca palm tree arrack alcoholic spirit distilled from palm-sap or rice
arrack
alcoholic spirit distilled from palm-sap or rice
aub-dar
servant responsible for cooling and serving drinks
asafoetida
resinous plant gum with a garlicky taste used in Indian cookery (also known as hing)
Ayurvedic
medicine
ancient school of Hindu medicine
Banian
member of a trading caste, merchant, or broker
barfi
fudgy sweet made from milk boiled down until it forms a thick paste
bebinca
Goan dessert made from coconut milk, jaggery and eggs
betel
leaf of the Piper betle, chewed with areca nuts
bhang
Indian hemp
bundobust
Anglo-Indian for contract burra khana Anglo-Indian for big dinner
burra khana
Anglo-Indian for big dinner
cantonment
Anglo-Indian for a military station
chittack
a measurement equivalent to about 1 ounce
choola
stove
chota haziri
early breakfast
chowrie
fan
chuprassee
messenger
dak
post
dak bungalow
rest house for travellers
dariol
medieval sweetmeat of egg custard baked in a pastry shell
dastarkhwan
central tablecloth on which the dishes for a feast are served
deg
cooking pot
dharma
humanitarian conduct
dhye
curds or yogurt
diwan
governorship of a region, granted by the Mughal emperor
dosa
thin pancake made from a batter of ground rice
Curry Page 29
