A Pepys of Mongul India (1653-1708)

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by Niccolao Manucci


  I did not obtain there what I sought, for I found myself in a place where treachery is great and prevalent, where there is little fear of God and no concern for strangers. Not that I can complain myself of ill-treatment, for the viceroy desired to honour me with the command of a war-galley; but since I had many necessary expenses, and I was not rich enough to take upon myself the payment of the soldiers and sailors from my own pocket, I declined.

  136 TARDY PAYMENT OF A DEBT

  My advice to the viceroy was that he should take great care not to let the Mogul become master of Bijapur, for, on finding an opportunity, he would use all his strength to take Goa, as was his usual practice.

  As I had need of money for expenses, I went several times to the General Ignacio Sermento, to ask for the three hundred rupees which he continued to owe me for certain articles that he had asked me to send him when I was in the Mogul country. Never could I succeed in getting what was due. At length, when he was about to start for his government of Mozambique , I begged him to make me a gift of the three hundred rupees—at any rate, under the name of alms. As a foreigner, I had no remedy against him, and when he heard me ask for charity he ordered the sum to be paid me. Thus is it the custom of certain of these gentlemen to pay their debts after wearying out their creditors. I was very fortunate. Others, in place of collecting the money they have lent, have lost a limb, or even their life. I do not want to talk of that, for those who are curious may ask the Portuguese themselves; there are among them men of sincerity, as there are in other nations; such men can tell them more than I dare to write about the Portuguese of India.

  I stopped in Goa a year and three months. It is a place with a climate suited to men from forty up to old age, but it is very unhealthy for young men. Thus, a few months after my arrival, I fell ill, and could never recover my health. Therefore I retired to the convent of the Italian Carmelite priests, where I was well received and attended to for six months, during which I continued unwell.

  The viceroy, when I arrived, was Antonio de Mello de Castro, who died afterwards a prisoner in Portugal, through good works of thieving, et cetera, of which he had been guilty in India. To replace him came Joao

  A FRUITLESS EXPEDITION AGAINST MASQAT 137

  Nunes da Cunha ; and this new governor, as soon as he arrived, undertook a great expedition. He kept his object secret, and it would have resulted in great honour to the Portuguese if those who were envious of his earning this glory had not impeded its execution. There came from Masqat, a fortress on the Arabian coast formerly belonging to the Portuguese, which by their negligence they lost, when it passed into the hands of an Arabian prince—there came, I say, from this fortress to Goa a Portuguese named Andre da Andrada, who was commander of artillery there, and passed for a Mahomedan. This man pledged his word to the new viceroy to deliver over the fortress if a strong fleet appeared before it by sea, and to secure that end he would spike the guns.

  The viceroy took up the proposal, and hired a strong fleet of good ships and frigates for this service. But he let no one know what he meant to do, and from this secrecy the Dutch dreaded some sudden blow to them, as J:hey could not find out what such preparations were meant for. By the distribution of copious bribes in all directions they won over several of the officers. The viceroy, being desirous of equipping his ships well, ordered the embarkation by force of every valid man, compelled the better class of Portuguese from the northern parts to come to Goa, and directed that no one should be allowed to quit the place. Thus, when the ships were well fitted out, he made over sealed instructions to the captains with the order not to open them until arrival at a certain latitude.

  Thus the fleet set sail without anyone knowing its destination. But the bribed pilots and captains sailed hither and thither with the ships without overcoming the contrary winds until they reached the appointed latitude, where the letters of instruction were opened ; and some of them managed secretly to tamper with the water-casks, so that all the water was lost. The 10*

  fault was put upon the viceroy, who, in his desire for haste, had not given time to prepare the ships properly. Thus there put into port only one frigate, which, in obedience to orders, anchored at Bandar Congo, on the Arabian coast, a Portuguese territory that now belongs to the King of Persia. There it waited some time for its companions, until it was obliged to return to Goa to avoid capture by those of Masqat, who profited by the treason.

  At the time of this expedition I was anxious to quit Goa, but I could not do it in lay clothing. I therefore left in the garb of a Carmelite monk until I got beyond the district of Goa and had entered the territory of Bijapur, of which Shiva Jt had already taken possession. There 1 returned to my ordinary costume, and placed myself under the guidance of Divine Providence. I prayed God to deliver me from many perils, above all from robbers ; for, a little time before my arrival, they had at a certain place murdered fifteen persons. Nor did they murder me as I passed by, but when they might have done it they saw me to be poor and a foreigner. A few paces farther on I met a traveller near some cattle sheds, who was escaping in haste, and he warned me to press onwards because the people following us were robbers; but, weakened by illness, I could not keep up with the pace of the man who was acting as my guide in a country I did not know. I passed several chungams, which are places where they collect money from people passing. The seventy they exercise upon travellers is great, depriving them of the smallest piece of money to be found on them, with no tenderness for the poor, taking from them in default of money their shirts, coats, and sheets.

  Having come to the boundary of the Bijapur territory near the river Bimbra (Bhima), I stopped for the night in a village called Pandarapur (Pandharpur), and on my arrival I took up my quarters in a public bazar, as is the custom of travellers, and deposited myself

  in an open shop. Some people passing said my waist-cloth was crammed with pearls. I answered that I was only a poor traveller. God was good to me that night! For at midnight the robbers entered the village, and the first thing they did was to come to the shop where I had put up. As they began by throwing stones, I sought refuge inside, dragging with me a servant boy whom I had with me, to prevent his being killed. They did not venture inside, but shouted to me to fling out whatever I had, thrusting with their spears and cutting with their swords at the door. I assured them that I could fling nothing out, for I was a poor man, having nothing with me. Such was the terror that throttled me that I could not utter a word, for I remembered what had been said to me that evening, that I had a waist-belt full of pearls, and I believed that they had come resolved to take my life; therefore I threw out two chains, each of which might be worth some fifty rupees. They made off, robbing the bazar and killing people, so that there was great tribulation in the village.

  Not considering myself safe in that shop, I sallied forth, and traversing the streets I reached a house where I halted, and finding the door open I ascended some steps and reached a terraced roof. Here I fancied myself in security. But the owner of the house, who had heard the outcry in the village, came out of his room with sword and shield. On seeing me, he ordered me roughly to make my way downstairs. I told him I was a foreigner who had fled from the bazar, where the thieves had robbed me, and to save my life had taken refuge there, finding the door open. This did not persuade him to let me remain, but he insisted on my departing. I was content that he even let me go unharmed, for on hearing his first talk I feared much he was about to finish what the robbers had begun.

  I now went to the steps of a temple, where many persons had taken shelter out of the way of the arrows

  flying about the streets and the sword-blows being distributed in all directions. Nor was it without some trouble that I got in even there. Next a Brahman refused to let me stop, thrusting me forth by force. But God repaid him for his want of charity, for while he was interfering with me, there came an arrow and hit him on the leg, and I was rid of him. The thieves withdrew, and I, too, found a refuge again in the bazar, but not in the
same shop, for I feared greatly they might come there once again. I spent the night in the discomfort that everyone can imagine. At dawn, feeling much afflicted, I chewed a clove, washing it down with a little warm water, whereupon I vomited several clots of thickened blood, and felt relieved.

  I continued my journey up to the crossing on the river (? the Bhima). Although it is wide, there were no boats; I crossed seated on a small bedstead attached to the tops of four pots. I then reached Paranda (Parenda) in the Mogul territory, where I came across my friends of the fortress of Bhakkar. They took compassion on my poverty, regaled me, succoured me with money, clothes, and a mount, on which I resumed my travels and arrived at Auran-gabad.

  Travelling is a teacher of many things, and he who wanders without learning anything can only be said to have the head of an ass. The horse given me by Manoel Ribeiro at Parenda had only arrived a few days before from Dihli, a journey of forty-six days, and it was thus much out of condition. It happened one day that my servant opened his bag in which he had a nutmeg, and by carelessness he left this nut on the ground, and the horse ate it. Next day on mounting, I noticed ithat he was much more lively in his gait. I did not know the cause of this freshness, then I remembered that he had eaten a nut the night before, and I concluded that must be the cause. Nor was I wrong, for on giving him each day one nut, he became ever more ready and clever.

  AT AURANGABAD, AGRAH, AND DIHLl 141

  After my arrival in Aurangabad I lived retired. This was the time at which, as I have related, Shah 'Alam was busy trying to get hold of Shiva Jf, and I was informed of the friar's death in the way I have recounted. I went on through Burhanpur, where I found several friends among the servants of Jai Singh, all disconsolate at the death of that great general. I felt his death very much, although I had no intention of re-entering his service, for I wanted to start as a doctor. Thence I went on to Agrah, where I visited the Jesuit Fathers, and reported to them what was going on at Goa. 1 did not stay long, but passed on to Dihli. Thereupon, on learning of my arrival, there was no fail of women who proposed marriage to me and sent me cloth, and money, and banquets of food. One of them sent me fifty gold coins and a horse, and handsome stuff to make me clothes. I went to see Kirat Singh, the younger son of Rajah Jai Singh, who in remembrance of the great affection his father held me in, and which he continued to give me, gave me a set of robes, two horses, and five rupees every day, and a handsome house to live in. By this means, those envious of my good fortune, who had expected to see me under the necessity of applying to them for my expenses, knowing that I was out of service, were in amazement at seeing me well dressed, owning horses, and keeping servants. Any foreigner who is out of employment can only subsist in a miserable fashion in that country.

  I lived in Dilh! one year in splendid style, having honourable means of making money. Then, by the king's order, Kirat Singh went to Kabul, and I determined to move to Lahor and give myself out as a doctor. I could not start this at Dihli, where there were already some Europeans, while in Lahor there was none.

  On reaching Lahor I found that Muhammad Amin Khan was governor, Aurangzeb having kept his promise to make him viceroy. As soon as I arrived

  I put up in the sarae with my grand carpets and my petty establishment, until I could find a house. I hired one belonging to Barqandaz Khan, my commander in Dara's time, and 1 instructed my servants to inform everyone that I was a Farangf doctor. Through this many came to talk with me, and in return I had no want of words, God having given me a sufficiently mercurial temperament. Thus it began to be noised about in Lahor that a Frank doctor had arrived, a man of fine manners, eloquent speech, and great experience. I rejoiced at such a reputation, but my heart beat fast, for then I had had no experience. It pleased God our Sovereign Lord to open the door to me with a case furnished to me by His Divine Providence.

  There came to me in the house where I had settled an old woman, who told me that the wife of the qazi was very ill, and given up by all the Persian and Indian physicians. She requested the favour of my proceeding to the qazi's house to see the woman, and decide whether there was any cure, for all the doctors had said that if anyone cured her they would burn all their books and profess themselves disciples of him who cured her. I put several questions about the illness of the woman ; I told the messenger to return home, and I would follow, saying that although the complaint seemed mortal, I would see if there was any remedy.

  I mounted my horse and rode to the qdzi's house, followed by my servants. Entering the house, I felt the patient's pulse. The attack was growing more and more severe, and no pulse could be felt, nor could I find out the seat of the disease. I trusted more to several secret experiments I knew, and to my questions. I racked my brains to think of something I could give the patient that might do her good. I asked her if she had been relieved, and they told me that for days she did not know what thing a motion was. This sufficed for me to start my treat-

  ment, and I told the old woman that the only thing was to administer a clyster. The old woman and the patient's son were much opposed to this, the Mahomedans having objections to this treatment. But the patient was already speechless. I said: " Agar zarurat bayad, rawa bakhshad" that is : " Necessity has no law," which are words of the Quran. Thus they gave in to my resorting to this treatment, and I told the old woman to come to my house in a few hours, and I would give her all that was required for the application.

  I came forth from this house leaving an excellent impression from my many questions and my copious flow of talk. But now came the moment when our Nicolao Manuchy found himself in a difficulty. For I knew not what ingredients I must employ, nor to what implements I must have recourse for this wonderful operation. After much searching of heart, I remembered that the enemas administered to me at Goa were concocted of mallows, wild endive, and some other herbs, with a trifle of bran, black sugar, salt, olive oil, and Canna fistula. I sent out for these things, and made a concoction. But the greatest difficulty was to get the instrument. For this I sent and got a cow's udder, and for the tube I took a piece of cane from a huqqah snake, through which the Mahomedans draw their tobacco. I managed to put these together in a manner that would serve. 1 placed the concoction into the udder, and fastened the tube to it. Then the old woman came, and to her I made over the injection, teaching her how she was to deal with it. I enjoined on her to come and inform me when the operation had been performed.

  I declared to her that if in a period of three hours the enema did not take effect, the patient had no hope of life. It was advisable for me to make this assertion, since should the patient die, I could say that I had foretold the result as inevitable. This was necessary

  to keep my reputation intact. Off went the old woman, and my heart began to beat hard, not knowing what effect the medicine might have. Soon I heard a knocking at my door as by one in haste. My anxiety was redoubled. It might be the news of the patient's death, through which I should lose the reputation that I was in search of. For the Mahomedans easily assign one a reputation, and as easily take it away. A happy cure at the start suffices to give the greatest credit, even if the cure be a mere accident. On the contrary, if there is a failure in the first case, even when the doctor is exceedingly learned and experienced, it suffices to prevent him ever being esteemed.

  I sent to have the door opened, when the old woman fell at my feet and gave me blessings, telling me that the patient had already begun to mend. Thus she urgently prayed me to visit the qazi's house to see the patient and continue the cure. Proud and elated by this news, I told her how necessary it was to confide in experienced physicians, that if I had not given her this medicament composed of ingredients known alone to me the patient was bound to die. I went and found that the patient had already begun to speak and recognise everyone who was present. She was very different from what she had been for some days, for they told me that she knew no one and could not speak. 1 thought it advisable to discharge nature further, so I gave her a light medicine, continuing it daily,
until the system was well cleansed. Then, with chicken-broth and bezoar stone, I began to strengthen the patient in such a way that in a few days she was restored to perfect health.

  This case became notorious among the principal men in Lahor, for this wife was much loved by her husband the qazi^ so that he had called in all the physicians to treat her disease. Thus there began to be talk of the Farang! doctor who was capable of

  MANUCCI AND MUHAMMAD AMlN KijAN 145

  resuscitating the dead. This caused me to be called in by many sick persons; and by adhering to certain books I had, I succeeded by God's favour in almost every case in which I was sent for.

  My fame reached the court of Muhammad Amin Khan, governor of the city and viceroy of the province of Lahor. He sent for me, and, after a long conversation on the subject of diseases and good health, he wanted to make me take service with him, offering me little pay, but great liberty. But I knew the style of man—very haughty, far from genial, just like the character of his father, Mir Jumlah. So that I said that as to becoming his servant I objected; still I should not fail to appear at the palace whenever necessary, either for himself or for those of his family. He was a little put out by my answer, but I paid no attention to that, for I was already on friendly terms with the chief people in the city, and by God's blessing my practice was successful. Thus I knew of a certainty that, in spite of Muhammad Amin Khan's desire to do me an injury, he would never dare. He would not give such an opening to the other nobles to make complaint of him at the court of Dihli. On the other hand, although he was much aggrieved at my not frequenting his audiences, he betrayed no anger, for he saw I was of use for attending his wives and sons. There happened to me a terrible business at the time of his departure from Lahor for Kabul (1670-71).

 

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