by Emily Nolan
Cocoa and Chocolate: A Chocoholic’s Dream
Chocolate comes from cocoa beans that have been fermented, roasted, and crushed into nibs. These nibs are then reheated and ground into a paste called chocolate liquor, which contains at least 53 percent cocoa butter. All chocolate and cocoa start out this way but are made into many different products.
Chocolate
Solid chocolate used for baking and eating comes in many varieties. Their differences lie not only in their varying proportions of chocolate liquor, sugar, and cocoa butter, but also the addition of vanilla and sugar.
Usually, baking chocolate comes in individually wrapped 1-ounce squares (usually in 8-ounce boxes). Many varieties of chocolate are available:
Unsweetened chocolate is pure chocolate liquor, containing at least 50 percent cocoa butter and no added sugar.
Bittersweet, semisweet, dark, and sweet chocolate vary from one another by the amount of sugar added to the chocolate liquor.
Milk chocolate has dried milk powder, cocoa butter, and sugar added.
White chocolate is not really chocolate because it doesn’t contain chocolate liquor, but most brands of white chocolate have cocoa butter in them. Make sure that the brand you choose contains cocoa butter. Without it, the flavor is inferior. White chocolate is also called vanilla chips or vanilla baking bar.
When a recipe calls for a specific type of chocolate, such as unsweetened chocolate, don’t substitute any other type, such as milk chocolate. You run the risk of a bad baking outcome.
Store chocolate in a cool, dark place (do not refrigerate). It should remain at a constant temperature, between 65 degrees and 78 degrees, and stored well wrapped in aluminum foil or plastic wrap. If stored at a high temperature or exposed to air for a long period of time, the chocolate will bloom, meaning that it will have a whitish haze or may become crumbly. What has happened is the cocoa butter has separated from the solids, and your chocolate gets a grayish exterior color. Not to worry, though — the quality of the chocolate is not affected. Stored properly, chocolate has an extremely long shelf life — up to one year.
When melting chocolate, never do so over direct heat. It is very delicate and burns easily. See Chapter 5 for the correct chocolate-melting procedure.
Cocoa
Unsweetened cocoa comes from pure chocolate liquor that has been separated into cocoa butter and solid cocoa cakes. These cakes are ground into cocoa powder, which is used often in baking cakes, cookies and commonly used to make brownies. Unsweetened cocoa is much different than cocoa for hot chocolate drinks, which have milk powder and sugar added. They cannot be substituted for one another, although you can add sugar and milk to cocoa to make hot chocolate.
You may notice that you now have a choice between Dutch process cocoa powder and regular cocoa powder. Simply put, the Dutch process treats the cocoa beans with an alkaline solution, and it has a different pH (about 7 or 8) than regular cocoa (about 5.5) before grinding the nibs. The result is a darker color and milder flavor than regular cocoa powder. This “Dutch process” finds favor with many pastry chefs.
Cocoa powder comes in a tin with a fitted lid. Cocoa powder is great if you bake a lot with unsweetened chocolate because it makes a good substitute and you don’t have to melt it. Many people also feel that cocoa powder gives a more intense flavor than unsweetened chocolate.
Add-Ins and Flavorings
Many times, you don’t want just “plain,” so you stir in a little fun. Nuts, coconut, raisins, and other ingredients make fine additions or toppings for many recipes. Extracts and syrups also add flavor to baked goods. These ingredients may come in small packages, but they’re essential for good flavor.
Nuts
Nuts add a wonderful flavor to baked goods, and they can also double as decorations. Here’s a list of the nuts most commonly used in baking (shown in Figure 2-1):
Almonds: Almonds are oval-shaped with a light brown exterior. They are available in or out of the shell, blanched (skinned) or unblanched (raw), halved, sliced, slivered, toasted, smoked, buttered, or salted. Whew!
Blanching your own almonds is easy. Just place the almonds in boiling water for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Drain and run under cool water to cool, and then rub them in a clean kitchen towel to loosen the skins. Or you can pop them straight out of their skin by just squeezing them a little.
Hazelnuts: Also called filberts, hazelnuts seem to be the nut of the decade. You can find just about anything flavored with this nut, from coffees to gourmet desserts. Their round shape makes them perfect for garnishing, too. Hazelnuts have a light-brown skin and can be used whole, ground, chopped, or as a paste to flavor fillings for desserts.
To skin hazelnuts, spread them out on a baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes, or until the skins begin to crack. Rub the nuts in a clean kitchen towel to remove the skins.
Pecans: Pecans are an American original, made famous in such dishes as pecan pie and pecan cookies and grown primarily in the southern part of the United States. They’re in season from September to November and are largely available shelled, in pieces. Whole halves are the most expensive and used largely for decorating.
Pine nuts: Also called piñon, these buttery-tasting nuts have grown in popularity in recent years because of their starring role in pesto, but they’re delicious in cookies, piecrusts, and breads. Shaped like a tiny ivory teardrop, these little nuts have a high oil content, so they should be stored in the freezer and used within six months of purchase. Although the pine nut is grown worldwide, and many varieties are available, don’t purchase the Chinese pine nut, which has a strong, piney flavor.
Walnuts: The most common variety of walnut is the English walnut, which has a wonderful mild flavor and is usually found in cookies, pies, and brownies. Walnuts are available in halves or in pieces (which is usually the least expensive way to buy them). Less well known is the black walnut, which has a very assertive, almost bitter flavor. All the recipes in this book that call for walnuts use the English walnut.
Be sure to get the freshest nuts possible. Store all your nuts in airtight containers in a cool, dry place if you will use them in less than a month. Otherwise, pop them into your freezer, away from strong odors, where they can keep for up to one year. Because most nuts have a high oil content, they can go rancid quickly if they’re not frozen. You can still chop and grind frozen nuts without any defrost time, so there really isn’t any reason not to freeze them.
Figure 2-1: An assortment of nuts used in baking.
Raisins and other dried fruits
Raisins are essential ingredients in many breads, cookies, and quick breads or muffins. I love to have them around to throw into something that may need a touch of sweetness.
You also can use dried currents, blueberries, cherries, and cranberries in place of or in addition to raisins. They are a wonderful flavor burst and can be used measure for measure as a substitute.
For moist, chewy raisins, soak them in hot water for a half hour or so. Just place them in a small bowl and add hot water to cover (you can flavor the water with coffee, rum, brandy, or bourbon if you like). When they become plump, drain the raisins and use as directed in the recipe.
Oats
Rolled oats are essential for oatmeal cookies and an important ingredient if you are making any sort of streusel or crumbly pie or cake topping. I also like to use them for making oatmeal bread.
Old-fashioned and quick oats generally come in a large cardboard container with a tight-fitting lid, which is fine to keep them in for storage. You can also find oats in the bulk section of many supermarkets. Do not store the oats in the plastic bag; instead, transfer the oats to an airtight container. If you do not use your oats often (for example, only a couple times a year), store them in the freezer. Also, never use instant oats for baking (which are different from quick oats). Instant oats absorb the water immediately and “cook,” which then turns your baked good into cement.
Peanut butte
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Peanut butter is great for peanut butter cookies and peanut butter pie, among other things. Peanut butter will store for many months in the pantry. If you purchase an all-natural brand, you can store that in the refrigerator so that it won’t separate. Do not be alarmed if the oil separates from the ground peanuts. That’s normal for unprocessed (natural) peanut butter to do.
You can also find lots of other nut butters — cashew, almond, and soy. Although you can interchange them with peanut butter for baking, the flavor of your baked good will be very different.
Coconut
Coconut is great for decorating cakes and cookies and is the essential ingredient for coconut cream pies and meringue cookies. Your recipe should specify whether you should use sweetened or unsweetened coconut. (If a recipe calls for unsweetened and you can’t find it at your grocery store, look for it in a whole-foods or natural grocery store.) Store it in an airtight container or a sealable bag. Unopened coconut will keep for six months. Opened, it will keep for several weeks. You can refrigerate or freeze coconut if you don’t use it very often.
Liquors
Liquors (bourbon, rum, brandy, and so on) add a nice flavor to many cakes, pies, and cookies. The alcohol evaporates during cooking, so unless a cake is soaked in the liquor or is uncooked, there is not much of a chance to overindulge. Always choose a moderate-quality alcohol when baking — the quality will be passed on to your finished product.
Maple syrup and extract
Maple syrup is the boiled sap from the maple tree. I always use pure maple syrup, but it’s quite expensive (unless you live in Maine or Vermont, where it’s much cheaper — if you travel or live there, look for it in grocery stores for the most reasonable price).
Keep your maple syrup in the refrigerator. Trust me when I say this — I once lost a whole gallon of pure maple syrup to mold because I did not refrigerate it. It may turn darker in the refrigerator, but it will not affect the flavor. Also, believe it or not, it takes quite a bit of syrup to impart maple flavor to baked goods or even frosting, so pick up some maple extract and try that before using your precious syrup, which I like to drizzle over cakes, cookies, and breads.
Molasses
Molasses is a strong-flavored syrup and comes from what is left over after granulated sugar has been extracted from sugar cane. It comes in light or dark varieties and is used to make gingerbread and to flavor cakes and muffins. Molasses will keep for a long time and should be stored in tightly closed jars in a cool place.
Spices and extracts
Spices and extracts lend a wonderful flavor accent to all baked goods. They should never overwhelm a dish and should be as fresh-tasting as possible.
Spices
Spices come from the seeds, bark, roots, and nuts of different plants and add flavoring to baked goods. The most common spices used in baking are
Allspice
Cardamom
Cinnamon
Cloves
Ginger
Mixed spice (also called apple pie spice)
Nutmeg
Recipes usually call for ground spices. When spices are ground, the oil that gives them their fresh flavor evaporates over time. For best results, buy small quantities of ground spices to ensure a high turnover in your own cupboard. Store them in tightly closed containers (glass is best) and keep them in a cool, dry place (not near the stove) to minimize the loss of the oil. Still, you should consider replacing spices you’ve had for more than one year, after which the flavor will have dissipated.
Buying spices “loose” is much less expensive than buying them in jars at grocery stores or supermarkets. Find out if your local natural-foods store or baking supply shop carries loose spices so that you can scoop just the right amount (usually 1/4 ounce is plenty). Just don’t forget to label the jars you store them in.
Extracts
Extracts often are the essential oils of many foods or plants. They are extracted as a concentrated oil, such as orange, lemon, or almond, and then mixed into an alcohol base. The most common extract used in baking is vanilla.
At the market, you have a choice of pure or imitation extracts. For the best flavor, always choose pure extract if you’re baking it in a simple recipe that contains few ingredients. Although pure extract can cost almost twice as much as imitation, it’s a smart investment because the flavor it gives your baked goods is so much better than that of imitation.
Because alcohol evaporates, be sure to keep the lids of extract bottles on tight and store your extracts in a cool, dry place. If you do, they will keep indefinitely.
Fresh Fruits
Cakes, pies, and tarts made with fresh fruit make a wonderful ending to any meal. The better the fruit you choose, the better the end result will be. Always buy fruit in season, at the peak of ripeness. The following guidelines can help you select the best of each season’s crop:
Apples: Choose apples that have a fresh, bright look and smooth, tight, unbruised skin. They should be firm and crisp. The best apples for baking are the more tart or sturdy varieties, such as Granny Smith, Winesap, McIntosh, and Golden Delicious. Keep in mind that Red Delicious apples may look pretty and are great for snacking, but they aren’t a good choice for baking.
Frozen fruit
In the summertime, I love to go to pick-your-own farms and stock up on all kinds of fresh fruit. Then I freeze my harvest for the winter months, when a fresh blueberry pie lifts my spirits. You can also keep frozen berries and fruits on hand (you can pick them up at the supermarket if you like) for pies, muffins, pancakes, and other desserts.
Always store apples in the refrigerator. At room temperature, they ripen up to ten times faster and turn mealy. Yuck!
Bananas: Bananas should be lightly firm and golden yellow with speckles of black spots; you don’t want green stems or tips. If your bananas have green tips, let them ripen at room temperature for a few days.
Berries: All berries, especially raspberries, are highly perishable and should be refrigerated and used within a day or two of purchase. Don’t wash berries until you’re ready to use them. Inspect packages of berries carefully; you should see no sign of mold. Fresh berries should give off a pleasant, fresh aroma. If they don’t have much of a smell, they won’t have much flavor either.
Cherries: Unfortunately, cherries have an extremely short season — July and August — so grab them while you can. Look for firm, plump, glossy cherries with a dark maroon color. Avoid soft or brown cherries; they’re overripe. Wash cherries only when you’re ready to use them (within a few days of purchase).
Citrus fruits: This category includes lemons, limes, grapefruits, and oranges. Choose fruits that are firm and feel heavy for their size. (The heaviness comes from the fruit being juicy.) Avoid lemons and oranges that have tinges of green skin. Always wash the fruit if you plan on using it for zest (the colored skin, not the white pith underneath).
Keep lemons on hand for freshly grated zest and for their juice. These bright, cheery fruits will keep for several weeks in the vegetable crisper.
Cranberries: You can usually find cranberries only in the autumn, and they’re often sold in plastic packaging. Look for bright, plump, glossy cranberries. Shriveled or soft berries are a sign of age — and certainly steer clear of any brown or moldy packages. Rinse fresh cranberries before using them. Cranberries freeze very well, so consider stocking up on them for a year-round supply. Just don’t defrost them before baking.
Mangoes: Mangoes are becoming more and more popular, and finding them is no longer such a chore. Purchase your mango while it is still slightly firm but gives a bit when pressed. Look for smooth skin with red and yellow coloring. A little touch of green is okay, but avoid mangoes that are all green.
Nectarines and peaches: Choose fruits with an orange-yellow or creamy-yellow skin, a nice red blush, and a fragrant smell. Any green on the skin means that the fruit was picked unripe and will never sweeten. If the fruits have nice color but are slightly
hard, set them out at room temperature for a few days to ripen. Refrigerate peaches and nectarines when they’re ripe.
Pears: A good pear has a nice pearlike fragrance. Because pears bruise so easily, choose your fruits slightly firm. They will ripen at room temperature in a few days. Avoid very green or bruised fruit.
Pineapple: Choosing a good pineapple can be tricky, because the fruits will not continue to ripen, or sweeten, after they’re picked. Some pineapples are labeled field ripened, and these should be your first choice. Otherwise, look for fresh-smelling, deep-green leaves. Pineapples should be firm but give slightly when squeezed. Pulling a leaf from the center of the pineapple is not a good indicator of the fruit’s freshness or sweetness (a popular misconception). Avoid pineapples that are soft or smell like they’re beginning to ferment.
Extras That Are Nice to Have on Hand
Although the following ingredients are not must-haves, you will come across them every once in a while when you’re baking. A well-stocked pantry will keep many of these ingredients at your fingertips so that you’ll be ready to bake on a moment’s notice.
Cornmeal: I am a lover of cornbreads and spoonbread, and cornmeal is great for keeping pizza crusts from sticking to the baking sheet, so I always keep some cornmeal on hand. Cornmeal can be white or yellow — where you live will probably dictate the availability and choice or preference. White cornmeal is a bit lighter and more delicate but doesn’t give you as chewy or strong a flavor as yellow cornmeal does. Store cornmeal like you would flour: in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.
