Shit-tube Plastic tube used to store bodily waste when climbing on El Cap.
Skyhook Small steel hook that will hold a climber’s weight when placed on a small flake or flat edge.
Sling Loop of rope or tape, useful for racking gear or looping around chockstones for protection.
Solo To climb without ropes, or to climb alone with ropes.
Static Rope Compared with a dynamic rope, a static rope does not stretch significantly when loaded.
Torque Technique whereby a climber places the pick of an ice axe in a crack and twists it.
Wire Short for a Nut on wire.
The author high on the unexpected crux of the Lafaille route (Lafaille went up the left side of the pillar). Photo: Ian Parnell
The sun brings no warmth on the Lafaille. Photo: Ian Parnell
Looking down the final belay on the Lafaille, the glacier 800 metres below. Photo Ian Parnell
Jean-Christophe Lafaille – the little big man of mountaineering. Photo: Ian Parnell
Ian Parnell: a man for all seasons, but mainly winter. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
The best part of a great climb - when it’s over. Photo: Ian Parnell
The author moving through crevasses on the way to the Dru for the third time. Photo: Ian Parnell
An easy pitch on the Lafaille, but still dangerous, with loose rocks almost hitting Ian a few minutes later. Photo: Ian Parnell
The art of suffering – a cold belay on the Lafaille. Photo: Ian Parnell
Tough times on the Lafaille as storms lash the face for a week. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ian tries to fit our route map together. Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
Like a pig in shit on the Dru. Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
The author trying to find a way up the Lafaille. Photo: Ian Parnell
Ian Parnell enjoying the luxury of our portaledge on the Lafaille. Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
The art of climbing is to be colour co-ordinated – the author on the Lafaille. Photo: Ian Parnell
The author making home in a crevasse, Patagonia. Photo: Ian Parnell
Coming up for air after a night in a crevasse. Photo: Ian Parnell
When you’re on the top you’re only halfway there – Ian Parnell setting up rap anchors on Mermoz. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Approaching the Devil’s Dihedral at dawn, Patagonia. Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
The author settling down for a very cold bivy on Mermoz. Photo: Ian Parnell
Nearer the dangerous snow mushroom on Sylchris. Photo: Ian Parnell
Ian at the base of the hard climbing on the Devil’s Dihedral. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ian leading on difficult ground on the Devil’s Dihedral. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Approaching the Diamond in winter – a cold place to spend your holidays. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Best not to look down. Alone on the Troll Wall. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
New routing on the fearsome Troll Wall. Photo: Paul Ramsden
Paul Ramsden having just told me our Troll Wall new route was at an end. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Big wall fingers on the Troll Wall, alone. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrickk
Looking for a place to bivy on the Lesueur (the foothold being the biggest option at hand). Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Great climbing on the second day of the Lesueur route, the bad weather now clearing. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ian Parnell on thick ice for once, below the Diamond. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
I imagine this is what the world might look like if you take LSD. The set of Charlie (see figures on left for scale). Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
Another day in the office – coming out of the chocolate tunnel on a chocolate river. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Paul Ramsden on the North Face of Les Droites. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ian Parnell treading carefully as we wind our way up to the summit of Longs Peak. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ian Parnell getting scrappy on the Diamond. Photo Andy Kirkpatrick
Ella. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Paul suffering from a bad back and virus on our uncomfortable chimney bivy on Les Droites. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Paul Ramsden traversing across to the Lagarde Couloir. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ella having secretly skied down from the top of Les Houches. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ewen. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Robert Steiner – a man for hard times. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Always on my mind: the Dru. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Ella and Ewen. Photo: Andy Kirkpatrick
Copyright
First published in 2011 by Vertebrate Publishing, an imprint of Vertebrate Graphics Ltd.
Copyright © Andy Kirkpatrick 2011.
VERTEBRATE PUBLISHING
Crescent House, 228 Psalter Lane, Sheffield S11 8UT.
www.v-publishing.co.uk
Andy Kirkpatrick has asserted his rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as author of this work.
This book is a work of non-fiction based on the life, experiences and recollections of Andy Kirkpatrick. In some limited cases the names of people, places, dates and sequences or the detail of events have been changed solely to protect the privacy of others. The author has stated to the publishers that, except in such minor respects not affecting the substantial accuracy of the work, the contents of the book are true.
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN: 978–1–906148–37–9
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.
Every effort has been made to obtain the necessary permissions with reference to copyright material, both illustrative and quoted. We apologise for any omissions in this respect and will be pleased to make the appropriate acknowledgements in any future edition.
Designed and typeset in Adobe Garamond Pro by Nathan Ryder – Vertebrate Graphics Ltd. – www.v-graphics.co.uk
Cold Wars Page 32
