by Will Hobbs
DEDICATION
to the Inuvialuit of today and tomorrow
CONTENTS
Dedication
Map
1: A Bear Like No Other
2: The Bearded Seal
3: A Letter from Arizona
4: Nick’s Bear
5: I’m Not There Yet
6: The Experts Are Stunned
7: Pure Foolishness
8: No Worries, Just Kidding
9: Disaster
10: My Side of the River
11: A Gauntlet of Grizzlies
12: You Have to Be Patient
13: Swapping Stories
14: Like Jonah and Me
15: You See What I See?
16: Inside Information
17: Hot on Their Trail
18: They Just Don’t Get It
19: Walking with Caribou
20: Turning for Home
21: The Bear at Last Mountain
22: In the Teeth of the Storm
23: Too Huge, Too Powerful
24: Change Comes to the Arctic
About the Author
Other Works
Credits
Copyright
Back Ad
About the Publisher
MAP
1
A BEAR LIKE NO OTHER
The first weekend in May I was out on the tundra trying to get a caribou for my grampa Jonah. The odds were against me. A good flow of caribou used to come fairly close to Aklavik on their way to the calving grounds, but that was before my time. At fifteen, I was raised in the new normal. Just about everything we hunt is harder to come by.
It takes time to spot caribou. The treeless land up here in the Arctic is vast and seemingly empty. You can’t get discouraged. There might be caribou over the next rise.
My second day out I finally had some luck. What I saw through Jonah’s high-powered binoculars wasn’t a river of caribou, not even a stream, just a trickle. Forty or so were dropping down a snowbank onto the greening tundra. Nearly half were mature cows, some with antlers and some without. The rest were yearlings and two-year-olds, including some good-sized bulls.
I stalked them for most of an hour. At four hundred yards, shielded by a knee-high boulder, I waited on my belly. The barrel of my rifle lay in a slot on the rock where it would remain dead still at the moment of truth.
As the caribou drew closer I heard the clicking of their foot tendons. Patience, I heard Jonah saying. Wait for the sure thing. The last thing you want is for an animal to suffer and die far away in the brush.
Abreast of me, fewer than two hundred yards away, the caribou stopped to graze. Some of the yearlings seized the opportunity to prance and play. The two-year-olds were grazing nonstop. The mature cows mostly kept their heads up, watching for danger. They couldn’t catch a whiff of me; the wind was out of the north, off the sea ice.
I picked out a good-sized bull standing broadside to me at the very back of the group. His head was up, and he was standing still as a statue. With the crosshairs of my scope on the killing spot behind his shoulder, I squeezed off the shot.
The bullet took the young bull’s life before he heard it coming. Confused and indecisive, the others milled around for a few seconds. Before I got to my feet, the leaders bolted. The whole bunch took off running at full speed.
I bled the caribou as soon as I reached him, then got to work skinning and field-dressing the bull the way Jonah had taught me. I smiled to hear my grandfather’s voice, same as if he was at my side: The sooner you let the heat out of the meat, the more tender and delicious it will be.
I opened up the underside of the animal and pulled the innards onto the tundra. The heart, liver, and kidneys were headed home to Aklavik with care. Jonah was as traditional as they come, and had always prized the organ meat. Sick as he was now from the stomach cancer, they were the only parts of this caribou he would be able to digest.
It used to be, elders who were dying were honored with meat from an unborn calf, which is said to be tender beyond belief. I guess it still happens some, but Jonah wouldn’t want me to kill a cow on his account. In the last ten years, the Porcupine River caribou herd has shrunk by as much as half, if you believe the experts. We’re hoping it’s not that bad, but who knows? The last couple years I’ve been killing only bulls, ever since Jonah said we should stop taking cows.
The butchering went quickly. You better believe I was keeping my eye out for bears as I placed the meat inside the game bags.
Before long a pair of ravens appeared. After a couple of flybys, they landed and hopped to within ten feet, big and shiny black. I tossed them some scraps.
I had to be extra wary now. Wolves and bears watch what the ravens are up to, and know it’s worth their while to investigate when the birds come to ground. It wasn’t wolves I was concerned about. They would keep out of range of my rifle until I was gone. Barren-ground grizzlies are so unpredictable, you just never know.
Soon as I was done tying down my two game bags full of meat to the pack frame I’d brought along, I was ready to head back to the river and home. The ravens hopped to the gut pile as I was struggling to get that load of meat onto my shoulders.
Even the year before, I couldn’t have done what I was about to do—walk three miles under that heavy a load. In the last year and a half I had put on ten or twelve pounds of muscle. I’d also shot up three inches, making me the tallest kid in school when I was only a sophomore.
Other than giving me an advantage when it came to basketball, getting tall was the last thing I would’ve wanted. We Inuit—a lot of people still call us Eskimos—aren’t known for our height. My problem is, only half of my genes are Inuit.
I didn’t really think I could make it all the way to the boat in one push. It was midafternoon, though, and I was anxious to get home. I kept going until I had the river in sight. At last I was weaving my way down the long sloping riverbank through the spindly spruce trees. My eyes were on the shore and the big motorboat.
I was half a minute from the boat when it happened. Careful not to trip as I navigated the brush, I heard something, maybe the snap of a twig, then a sudden woosh of breath from behind. With a glance over my shoulder I saw an enormous bear. It froze in a predatory crouch, like a lynx stalking a snowshoe hare.
This bear was more than strange. Most of its body was white like a polar bear, but its head and legs were shades of brown, like a grizzly.
The bear was close. I mean, it was right there. I had my rifle only half raised before I realized I didn’t have time to shoot. The beast rushed me with a roar. All I had time to do was turn my back to it.
The impact felt like I’d been hit by a tumbling boulder. My rifle went flying as I went to the ground. I felt the claws rake my shoulder as the bear tore the pack from my back. I knew I had to get to the boat, and fast, but I couldn’t move. I couldn’t even breathe. The bear was standing over me, roaring and growling, big as any polar bear I’d ever seen, and I’ve seen four.
This animal wasn’t a polar bear and it wasn’t a grizzly. It was a bear like no other, some kind of monstrosity. As desperate as I was to get up, I still couldn’t. Suddenly I knew what was wrong. I’d had the wind knocked out of me.
The monster was still standing on its hind legs, roaring and clawing the air.
If the creature had come down on me, it would’ve killed me or mauled me within an inch of my life. Instead, it swung away toward the pack loaded with meat. Carrying the whole thing in the bite of its jaws, the beast moved off with its prize about thirty feet before dropping it. Seconds was all it took for the bear to slash and bite through the rope and rip the bags open.
The raw meat had the animal in a frenzy. It stood over the meat and roared at me as if I was a threat.
Me, I was still down and sucking wind without getting any into my lungs. For what good it would do me, I pulled my hunting knife from its sheath at my hip. Finally that crushed feeling in my chest let go, and my lungs filled. I looked around for the rifle without any luck. It must have landed in the brush.
I got to my feet, faced the bear without looking it in the eyes, and walked backward toward the front of the boat. Unthreatening as that might’ve been, I wasn’t getting away with it. Up on its hind feet, the bear took a couple steps in my direction. As I turned toward the rope tethering the boat to a stunted spruce, the bear got down on all fours and charged. Fast as I could, I cut the rope, then spun to face the onslaught.
At the sight of me with that big knife raised—its blade six inches long—the bear stood to its full height and roared two, three times. I got a horribly close-up look at its canines, like yellow daggers. The stench spewing through those open jaws about knocked me down.
I’ll never forget those small, amber eyes. I’d seen aggressive bears before, but never this aggressive, and this one had a predatory look in his eye.
I thought for sure the bear was about to come down on me. I intended to bury the blade of my knife in the monster’s heart or die trying. Just then a raven croaked from behind the bear, and then a second raven. They were on the meat. The bear spun and charged the birds. I leaped behind the steering wheel and hit the starter. Soon as that powerful outboard fired up, I threw it into reverse and backed off the shore fast as I could.
You would think the roar of the motor would’ve thrown a scare into the bear, but no. The beast was so enraged and so intent on getting at me, it left the meat behind and charged down the riverbank. Plunging into the water with a tremendous splash, the crazy thing swam after the boat.
That bear was a powerful swimmer, and was closing fast. As I slammed the gearshift into forward, one huge paw was reaching out of the water to smack the boat. I opened up the throttle and sped away with a roar of my own.
2
THE BEARDED SEAL
I motored upstream running full out. What a relief to put a bunch of miles between me and that freakish monster. For someone who thought he didn’t scare easily, I took nearly the whole way back to Aklavik—almost an hour—to calm down.
Aklavik sits in a sharp bend in the west channel of the river. Our town of six hundred in the delta of the mighty Mackenzie is hemmed in by water on all sides, including the ponds and swamps at our backs. The Mackenzie spills into the Beaufort Sea—our stretch of the Arctic Ocean—only sixty miles to the north. There’s no road to Aklavik unless you count the ice road in the deepest part of winter. The Canadian government calls Aklavik a hamlet, but my family says town. Jonah says a hamlet sounds like breakfast—an omelet with ham.
I tied the boat close to where my grandparents live. On my way to Jonah’s I walked down the street alongside the school. The sign in front has these words, arranged like this:
MOOSE KERR
SCHOOL
AKLAVIK “NEVER SAY DIE”
Moose Kerr was the principal here for a long time. “Never Say Die” is the motto of the school and our town, but these days for me, it’s much more about my grandfather. At the moment, minutes from his door, I was wiping tears from my eyes. I couldn’t bear to lose Jonah, and the end was coming soon.
Battling hard to get control of my emotions, I reached for my Inuit sense of humor. “Blubber good, blubbering bad,” I said with a grimace. By the time I reached his door I had pulled myself together.
My grandparents’ small home was filled with the aroma of fresh-baked bannock as I walked in after shucking my boots and torn jacket in the mudroom. Jonah was happy to see me as always, his eyes playful yet penetrating. He could tell I hadn’t arrived with caribou but he wasn’t disappointed. My grandfather reached up for my hand with both of his, but stayed seated in his tattered recliner, where he was spending most of his time these days.
Jonah was wearing his favorite vest, the one with the image of a bull caribou on either side. Instead of jeans he was wearing light sweatpants. It was shocking how little of him there was inside his clothes. The muscles were gone from his neck and shoulders, from his torso that used to be like a diesel drum, from those arms and legs stout as driftwood timbers.
Four years into his cancer, the great man inside the withering body hadn’t gone away, though, and that’s what counted. For now, the grandfather who was like a father was still with me. “So good to see you, Ug-juk,” I said.
Jonah laughed at the old nickname. When I was a little kid I used to touch his chin whiskers and call him by the name of the bearded seal. He liked that. Bearded seals are large and powerful. As his laughter subsided, Jonah chuckled and said, “I’m getting more like ugjuk all the time. Ask your grandmother. Now that it’s spring, I haul out of bed and bask in the sunshine all day.”
I pulled a chair close and set up the TV trays. Gramma Mary brought food and tea from the kitchen. I gulped tea and filled my face with thick slices of bannock that I slathered with Mary’s mixed jam—cranberries, blueberries, and cloudberries that my family or some of the other relatives had picked for her the summer before. “Delicious,” I said in her direction. Jonah nodded his agreement though he’d barely nibbled at his.
We made small talk about how early the ice had gone out this year. The river had been open since the third week of April. Even when I was young, the ice wouldn’t go out until May. The ice jams hadn’t gotten that bad, hardly backing up the river, no flooding at all. As we talked I ate sliced goose breast and spread goose-liver paste on another piece of bannock. A few days back, I’d shot a bunch of geese and ducks and dropped them at the relatives’ and friends’ on my way home.
“Good food you’ve been bringing around,” my grandfather said. “You haven’t had much sleep since breakup, I bet.”
“The long days are here, Grampa. School gets out at three and I can hunt until nine. I’ll catch up on sleep when the short days come back.”
Jonah nodded and smiled. “That’s the way, all right. I hear there’s only a few guys out for caribou this spring. You see anybody else on the tundra?”
“Nope, same as yesterday.”
“Makes more sense to wait until fall. You’ll get plenty then, like you always do. But tell me about your hunt today. You’ve always got a story for me.”
“Do I ever.”
“Sometimes a story is even better than meat.”
“This one’s a whopper but it’s true. By the way, I got a caribou, but then it got away.”
His thin eyebrows lifted. “Not wounded, I hope.”
“No way, I dropped him clean. Nice bull, a two-year-old.”
“It got away dead. Hmmm …”
“I lost it, would be more accurate.”
My grandfather loved riddles. It didn’t take him long to figure this one out. “You had bear trouble?”
“Fifty feet from the boat, with the meat in two bags on my back.”
All the humor drained from his face. “A grizzly?”
“Nope.”
“Polar bear?”
“Nope.”
“Black bear?”
“Nope.”
“Got me stumped,” he said, shaking his head. “Panda bear?”
“Grampa, this is a true story I’m telling you.”
“Give me a hint, Nick. I got no idea.”
“Well, your first two guesses were correct.”
“Hmmm … a grizzly and a polar bear. You ran into two bears, not one. There, I got it.”
“Nope, there was only one bear.”
“One bear that was a grizzly and a polar bear?”
“That’s the animal—a cross between the two. Have you ever heard of such a thing?”
“Never. Tell me what it looked like.”
“Light brown head of a grizzly, wide and dished-out in the forehead. The muzzle was almost white. It had the long neck of a polar bear, with the fur getting less brown and more whit
e between head and shoulders.”
“Hump of a grizzly?”
I had to think a bit. “Not hardly. And the shape of the body was longer, like a polar bear’s, like it was made for swimming. The fur on the torso was white like a polar bear’s, but dirty white. On its legs the fur went from white high on the haunches to dark brown below the knees.”
“What a strange-looking animal!”
“I know!”
“Long claws on the front feet like a grizzly?”
I closed my eyes and remembered the bear standing above me. “I’m pretty sure the front claws were shorter, like a polar bear’s. And the feet were shaggy and big as frying pans, like a polar bear’s.”
“Fur on the bottom of the feet?”
“Some, but not as much as a polar bear’s got.”
“How big was this bear?”
“Bigger than any barren-ground grizzly, big as a polar bear. Nine hundred pounds, easy, and aggressive like you wouldn’t believe. Like it had no experience with humans and saw me as prey.”
“Tell me what happened.”
I did, from when I first saw the bear at no more than twenty feet to when I escaped in the motorboat. As he listened, Jonah never blinked once. When I was done, he said, “Nick, you were lucky to get away with your life.”
“Don’t I know. He came an eyelash from nailing me. What do you figure it was, Grampa?”
“A grizzly and the great white bear have mated, sounds like. Get that close, used to be, aklak and nanuq were trying to kill each other.”
Grampa Jonah worried his chin whiskers. “We hear about grizzlies crossing on the sea ice to the islands up north. We hear about starving polar bears hundreds of miles south of the ocean. Now this strange new stalking bear with no fear of man. This last year since I’ve been too sick to go with you, I haven’t worried. I was hunting on my own to feed my family when I was twelve, and you’re a real good hunter. But maybe for now, with this aggressive bear in the area, you should go with one of the other hunters.”
“I was thinking the same thing.”
