Nothing is less ambiguous than our faith ; it is no system of philosophy, of which each one may take or reject what he pleases : an individual is altogether a Catholic or he is no Catholic at all; there can be no almost, nor yet any new mnaner in Catholicism, Neo-catholicism is a disguised sect which must soon abjure error to return into the bosom of the church, under penalty of being otherwise condemned by a church justly impressed with the necessity of preserving the purity of faith, much more than with the ambition of increasing the number of her doubtful and equivocal children. When the world shall adopt Christianity with sincerity, it will take it as it is. The essential point is that the sacred trust remain ¡mre from alloy.
Nevertheless the Catholic church may reform it-
author's preface.xv
self as regards customs, the discipline of the clergy, and even as regards doctrine upon points which do not affect the fundamentals of faith; what indeed is its history, its life, but one perpetual reform? this legitimate and uninterrupted reform can however be only carried on under the direction of ecclesiastical -minority and according to canonical law.
The more I see of the world, its different states and tribes, the more am I convinced that truth is immutable : it was defended with barbarity by barbarous men in barbarous ages ; it will in future be defended with humanity : but its purity cannot be affected either by the prism of error with which its adversaries are dazzled, or by the crimes of its own champions.
I should like to send into Russia, all Christians who are not Catholic, to show them what our religion may be brought to when taught in a national church, when practised under the direction of a national clergy.
The spectacle of abject servility into which the sacerdotal power can fall in a land where the church is only held of the state, would make every consistent Protestant recoil. A national church or a national clergy are words which ought never to have been joined; the church is, by its very essence, superior to all national distinctions, all human associations; to abandon the church universal in order to enter into any political church, is to do worse than err in faith, — it is to abjure the faith, it is to fall back again from heaven to earth.
And yet how many sincere, how many excellent men believed, at the 'birth of Protestantism, that
xvi
author's preface.
they should be purifying their creed by adopting the new doctrines which have only served to narrow their minds I Since then, indifference, masked and extolled under the attractive name of toleration, has perpetuated error.
The circumstance which renders Russia the most singular State now to be seen in the world is that extreme barbarism, favoured by the enslavement of the church, and extreme civilisation, imported by an eclectic government from foreign lands, are there to be seen united. To understand how tranquillity, or at least immobility, can spring from the shock of elements so opposed, it will be necessary to follow the traveller into the heart of this singular country.
The mode which I employ of describing places and defining characters, appears to me, if not the most favourable to the author, at least the most likely to inspire confidence in the reader, whom I oblige to follow me, and whom I render the judge himself of the development of those ideas that may be suggested to me.
I arrived in a new country without any other prejudices, than those which no man can guard against; those which a conscientious study of its history impart. I examined objects, I observed facts and individuals, while candidly permitting daily experience to modify my opinions. Very few exclusive political notions incommoded me in this spontaneous labour, in which religion alone was my unchanging rule ; and even that rule may be rejected by the reader without the recital of facts and the moral consequences that flow from them being discarded, or confounded with the reprobation that I shall meet with from those whose creeds do not agree with mine.
author's preface.xvii
I may be accused of having prejudices, but I shall never be reproached with intentionally disguising the truth.
The descriptions of Avhat I saw were made upon the spot, the recitals of what I heard each day were committed to paper on the same evening. Thus, my conversations with the Emperor, given word for word in the ensuing chapters, cannot fail to possess a species of interest: that of exactitude. They will also serve, I hope, to render this prince, so differently viewed among us and throughout Europe, better known.
The chapters that follow were not all destined for the public. Several of the early ones were written as purely confidential letters. Fatigued with writing, but not with travelling, I resolved, this time, to observe without any methodical plan, and to keep my descriptions for my friends. The reasons that decided me to publish the whole will be seen in the course of the work.
The principal one was the feeling that my views were daily modified by the examination to which I subjected a state of society absolutely new to me. It struck me that in speaking the truth of Russia, I should be doing something bold and novel: hitherto, fear and interest have dictated exaggerated eulogies; hatred has also published calumnies: I am not afraid of making wreck either on the one rock or the other.
I went to Russia to seek for arguments against re-presentative government, I return a partisan of constitutions. A mixed government is not the most favourable to action; but in their old age, nations have less need of acting: this government is the one
.
xviiiauthor's preface.
which most aids production, and which procures to man the greatest amount of prosperity ; it is, above all, the one which imparts the highest activity to mind within the sphere of practical ideas: in short, it renders the citizen independent, not by the elevation of sentiments, but by the operation of laws; assuredly these are great compensations for great disadvantages.
As I gradually became acquainted with the tremendous and singular government, regulated, or I might say founded, by Peter I., I became aware of the importance of the mission whieh chance had entrusted to me.
The extreme curiosity with which my work inspired the Russians, who were evidently rendered unquiet by the reserve of my language, first led me to think, that I had more power than I previously attributed to myself; I therefore became attentive and prudent, for I was not long in discovering the danger to which my sincerity might expose me. Not daring to send my letters by post, I preserved them all, and kept them concealed with extreme care; so that on my return to France, my journey was written, and in my own hands. Nevertheless, I have hesitated to publish it for three years: this is the time which I have needed to reconcile, in the secret of my conscience, what I believed to be the conflicting claims of gratitude and of truth! The latter at last prevails, because it appears to me to be truth of a nature that will interest my country. I cannot forget that, above all else, I write for France, and I hold it my duty to reveal to her use-ail and important facts.
I consider myself competent and authorised to
author's preface.xix
judge, even severely if my conscience urges me, a country where I have friends, to analyse, without descending into offensive personalities, the character of public men, to quote the words of political persons, to commence with those of the highest personage in the state, to recount their actions, and to carry out to the last stage of inquiry the reflections which these examinations may suggest; "provided, however, that in capriciously pursuing the course of my ideas, I do not give them to others except for just the worth that they have in my own eyes: this, it appears to me, is all that constitutes the probity of an author.
But in thus yielding to duty, I have respected, at least I hope so, all the rules of social propriety ; for [ maintain that there is a proper manner of expressing severe truths: this manner consists in speaking only upon conviction, whilst repelling the suggestions of vanity.
Besides, having seen much to admire in Russia, I have been able to mingle many praises in my descriptions.
The Russians will not be satisfied ; when was self-love ever known to be ? And
yet no one has ever been struck more than I, by the greatness and political importance of their nation. The high destinies of these people, these last comers upon the old theatre of the world, engaged my mind during the whole time of my stay among them. The Russians, viewed as a body, appeared to me as being great, even in their most shocking vices; viewed as individuals, I considered them amiable. In the character of the common people I found much to interest: these
XXAUTIIOU'S PREFACE.
flattering truths ought, I think, to compensate for others less agreeable. But, hitherto, the Russians have been treated as spoiled children by the greater number of travellers.
If the discordances that one cannot help remarking in their social state, if the spirit of their government, essentially opposed to my ideas and habits, have drawn from me reproaches, and even cries of indignation, my praises, equally voluntary, must have the greater weight.
But these Orientals, habituated as they are to breathe and dispense the most direct incense of flattery, will be sensible to nothing but blame. All disapprobation appears to them as treachery ; they call every severe truth a fa½ehood ; they will not perceive the delicate admiration that may sometimes lurk under my apparent criticisms — the regret and, on some occasions, the sympathy that accompany my most severe remarks.
If they have not converted me to their religions (they have several, and among these, political religion is not the least intolerant), if, on the contrary, they have modified my monarchical ideas in a way that is opposed to despotism and favourable to representative government, they will be offended simply because I am not of their opinion. I regret that such is the case, but I prefer regret to remorse.
If I were not resigned to their injustice, I should not print these chapters. Besides, though they may complain of me in words, they will absolve me in their consciences: this testimony will be sufficient for me. Every honest Russian will admit that if I have committed errors of detail for want of time to
author's preface.xxi
rectify my impressions, I have described Russia in general, as it really is. They will make allowance for the difficulties which I have had to conquer, and will give me credit for the quickness with which I have, discerned the advantageous traits of their primitive character under the political mask that has disfigured it for so many ages.
The facts of which I have been witness are recorded precisely as they passed before my eyes; those which were related to me, are given as I received them ; I have not endeavoured to deceive the reader by substituting myself for the persons whom I consulted. If I have abstained from naming, or in any way indicating these persons, my discretion will undoubtedly be appreciated; it is one proof more of the decree of confidence which the enlightened indivi-duals deserve to whom I thus ventured to address myself for information respecting certain facts that it was impossible for me to observe personally. It is superfluous to add that I have only cited those to which the character and position of the men from whom I had them, gave, in my eyes, an unquestionable stamp of authority.
Aided by my scrupulous exactitude, the reader may judge for himself of the degree of authority that should be ascribed to these secondary facts, which, it may be further observed, occupy but a very small place in my narrations.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Russia at Ems. — Character of Russian Courtiers. — The Person of the Grand Duke. — His Father and Uncle at the same Age. — His Equipages and Suite. — Superiority of the English in all external Appurtenances. — The Rhine. — The River more beautiful than its Banks. — Fire-Flies on the Rhine. Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Character and Progress of German Civilisation.— Prussian
Protestantism. — Music a means of Education. — Prussia the
Auxiliary of Russia. — Luther the Personification of German
Character. — French Minister at Berlin.—Anecdote of the
Empress Catherine.—Anecdote of the Convention of Pilnitz.
Family Memoirs. — Souvenirs of the Revolution. — General
Custine. — Heroism of his Daughter-in-Law. — His Son. —
Tragic Prison Scene. — Early Impressions of Infancy.7
CHAPTER III.
Continuation of the Life of Madame de Custine.—Her Arrest. — Providential Concealment of her Papers. — Devotion of Xanette.— Scene at the tomb of Marat. — Madame de Beauharnais in Prison. —Anecdotes of Prison Life. — Interrogation of Madame de Custine. —Inspires one of her Judges
XXIVCONTENTS.
with the Desire of saving her. — The means which he uses during Six Months to retard her Execution. — End of the Reign of Terror. — Character of Robespierre. — The Prisons after his Fall. — Petition of Nanette. — Extraordinary Deliverance of Madame de Custine. — Returns to her House. — Sickness and Poverty. — Noble Conduct of Jerome. — His after History. — Journey of Madame de Custine to Switzerland.—Ballad of Le Rosier.—Lavater.— Madame de Custine under the Empire. — Her Friends. —Death in 1826. Page 2õ
CHAPTER ГУ.
Conversation at Lubeck on Peculiarities in the Russian Character.— Journey from Berlin to Lubeck. — Imaginary Evils.
—Travemunde. — Character of Northern Landscapes. —
Holstein Fishermen. — Sublimity of Flat Scenery. — Nights
of the North. — It is Civilisation which heightens Admiration
of the Scenes of Nature. — The Steppes of Russia. —Burn
ing of the Steamer Nicholas I. — Road from Sehwerin to
Lubeck. — A German Statesman. — The Fair Bath-Woman
of Travemunde.—Reflections.49
CHAPTER V.
Polar Nights. — Montesquieu and his System. — Scenery of the North. — Flatness of the Earth's Surface near the Pole.
—Shores of Finland. — Melancholy of Northern People. —
Prince К. — Definitions of Nobility. — The English
Nobility. — Freedom of Speech. — Canning. — Napoleon. — Confidential Conversation. — Glance at Russian History. — Institutions and Spirit of Chivalry unknown in Russia. — The Nature of an Autocracy. — Polities and Religion are identical in Russia. — Future Influence of Russia. — Fate of
Paris. — Prince and Princess D. —The Cold-Water
Cure. — Good Manners of the Higher Orders in Russia. —
Society in France before the Revolution. — A Modern
Frenchman of the Middle Classes. — His mauvais Ton. —
Agreeable Society on the Steam-Boat. — Russian National
Dances. — Two Americans. — Steam-Boat Accident. — Isle
of Dago.---61
CONTENTS.
XXV
CHAPTER VI.
Tragedy of Baron de Sternberg. — Type of Lord Byron's Heroes. — Parallel between Sir ЛУ. Scott and Byron. — Historical Romance. — Marriage of Peter the Great. — Romodauowski. — Influence of the Greek Church in Russia.
—Tyranny supported by Falsehood. — Corpse in the Church
of Revel.—The Emperor Alexander deceived.—Russian Sen
sitiveness as to the Opinions of Foreigners.—A Spy . Page 97
CHAPTER VII.
The Russian Marine. — Remark of Lord Durham's. — Great Efforts for small Results. — The Amusements of Despotism.
—Kronstadt. — Russian Custom-House. — Gloomy Aspect
of Nature. — Recollections of Rome. — English Poetical
Name for Ships of War. — Object of Peter the Great. — The
Finns. — Batteries of Kronstadt. — Abject Character of the
Lower Classes of Russian Employes. — Inquisitions of the
Police, and the Custom-House. — Sudden Change in the
Manners of Fellow-Travellers. — Fickleness of Northern
People.- - - - - - - ИЗ
CHAPTER VIII.
Approach to Petersburg b
y the Neva. — Incongruity between
the Climate and Aspect of the Country and the Style of
Architecture. — Absurd Imitation of the Monuments of
Greece. — The Custom-House and Police. — Inquisitorial
Examination. — Difficulties of Landing. — Appearance of
the Streets. — Statue of Peter the Great. — The Winter
Palace. — Rebuilt in one Year. — The Means employed.—
Russian Despotism.— Citation from Herberstein.—Karam-
sin. — The Character of the People accords with that of the
Government.-- - - - -128
CHAPTER IX.
The Drowska. — Costume of the Lower Orders. — Wooden
Pavements. — Petersburg in the Morning. — Resemblance of
the City to a Barrack.— Contrast between Russia and Spain.
vol. i.a
XXVI
CONTENTS.
—Difference between Tyranny and Despotism.'—The Tchinn.
Peculiar Character of the Russian Government. — The Arts in Russia. — A Russian Hotel. — The Evils to be encountered there. — The Michael Palaces. — Death of Paul I.
The Spy baflled. — The Neva, its Quays and Bridges. — Cabin of PeterL—The Citadel, its Tombs and D ungeons.
Church of St. Alexander Newski. — Russian Veterans. — Austerity of the Czar. — Russian Faith in the Future, and its Realisation. — Munich and Petersburg compared. — Interior of the Fortress. — The Imperial Tombs.— Subterranean Prison. — Russian Prisoners. — Moral Degradation of the Higher Classes. —Catholic Church. —Precarious Toleration. —Tomb of the last King of Poland, and of Moreau. Page 142
Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia Page 2