Among the ancients the architects reared their structures in steep and confined spots, where the picturesque character of the site added to the effect of the works of man. The Russians, who flatter themselves they are reproducing the wonders of antiquity, and who, in reality, are only caricaturing them, raise their soi-dìsant Grecian and Roman structures in immense fields, where they are almost lost to the eye. The architecture proper for such a land would not be the colonnade of the Parthenon, but the tower of Pekin. It is for man to build mountains, when nature has not undulated the surface of the earth; but the Russians have raised their porticoes and pediments without thinking of this, and without recollecting that on a flat and naked expanse it is difficult to distinguish edifices with so small an elevation. We still recognise the steppes of Asia in cities where they have pretended to revive the Roman Forum.* Muscovy is more nearly allied to Asia
* These observations apply only to the buildings constructed from the time of Peter I. The Russians of the middle ages, ■who built the Kremlin, better understood the architecture which belonged to their land and their genius.
FALSE TASTE OF THE RUSSIANS.217
than to Europe. The genius of the East hovers over Russia. The semicircle of edifices opposite the imperial palace, if observed sideways, at a proper distance, has the effect of an incomplete ancient amphitheatre. If examined more nearly, we see only a series of decorations that have to be replastered every year, in order to repair the ravages of the winter. The ancients built with indestructible materials under a favourable sky; here, under a climate which destroys everything, they raise palaces of wood, houses of plank, and temples of plaster; and, consequently, the Russian workmen pass their lives in rebuilding, during the summer, what the winter has demolished. Nothing resists the effects of this climate; even the edifices that appear the most ancient have been reconstructed but yesterday; stone lasts here no better than lime and mortar elsewhere. That enormous piece of o·ranite, which forms the shaft of the column of Alexander, is already worn by the frost. In Petersburg it is necessary to use bronze in order to sup-port granite ; yet notwithstanding these warnings, they never tire of imitating the taste of southern lands. They people the solitudes of the pole with statues and historical bas-reliefs, without considering that in their country monuments are even more evanescent than memories. Petersburg is but the scaffolding of a structure — when the structure is finished, the scaffolding will be removed. This chef-d'œuvre, not of architecture but of policy, is the New Byzantium, which, in the deep and secret aspirations of the Russian, is to be the future capital of Russia and the world.
Facino· the palace, an immense arcade pierces the
VOL. I.L
218
TRIUMPHAL ARCH.
already noticed semicircular range of buildings, and leads into the Morslw'ë street. Above this enormous vault is placed a car with six horses in bronze, guided by, I know not what kind of allegorical or historical figure. I doubt whether there could be elsewhere seen anything in such bad taste as this colossal gate opening under a house, and flanked on either side by ordinary dwellings, whose vicinity has nevertheless not prevented its being, under Eussian architects, converted into a triumphal arch. I question the merit of the workmanship of the car, statue, and horses; but were they ever so good, they are so ill placed that I should not admire them. In objects of art it is the harmony and keeping of the whole which invite to the examination of details; without merit in the conception, what avails a delicacy in the execution? But, indeed, both one and the other are equally wanting in the productions of Russian art. Hitherto this art has been confined to imitating, without choice or taste, the good or the evil of other lands. If the design be entertained of reviving ancient architecture, it can only be done by strictly copying, and by placing such copies in analogous sites. Every thing here is mean, although colossal; for in architecture it is not the dimensions of the walls which constitute excellence, but the purity of the style.
I cannot cease marvelling at the passion they have conceived here for light, aerial structures. In a climate where there is sometimes a difference of eighty degrees between the temperature of winter and of summer, what have the inhabitants to do with porticoes, arcades, colonnades, and peristyles? But the
A RUSSIAN STORM.219
Russians are accustomed to view even nature as a slave. Obstinate imitators, they mistake their vanity for genius, and believe themselves destined to renew, on a scale yet larger than the original, all the wonders of the world. Such creations of the Russian sovereigns, as I have hitherto seen, have evinced, not the love of the arts, but the love only of self.
Among other boasts, I hear it said by many Russians, that their climate also is ameliorating! Will God, then, connive at the ambition of this grasping people? "Will he give them up even the sky and the breeze of the south ? Shall we see Athens in Lapland, Rome at Moscow, the riches of the Thames in the Gulf of Finland, and the history of nations reduced to a question of latitude and longitude ?
While my carriage, after leaving the palace, was crossing rapidly the immense square I have been describing, a violent wind raised immense clouds of dust, and I could only see, as through a veil, the equipages that were passing in all directions. The dust of summer is one of the plagues of Petersburg; it is so troublesome that I even wish for the winter snow. I had scarcely reached my hotel when a tremendous storm burst forth. Darkness at mid-day, thunder without rain, a wind which blew down houses, and, at the same time, a suffocating tempera-ture, were the greeting which Heaven gave during the nuptial banquet. The superstitious viewed these signs as ominous, but soon became re-assured, by observing that the stoi·m did not last long, and that the air was purer after it than before. I recount what I see, without sympathising with it, for I have L 2
220 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROR.
no interest here but that which actuates a curious and attentive stranger. There is between France and Russia a Chinese Avail — the Slavonic language and character. In spite of the notions with which Peter the Great has inspired the Russians, Siberia commences on the Vistula.
Yesterday at seven o'clock I returned to the palace with several other foreigners, in order to be presented to the emperor and empress.
It is easy to perceive that the former cannot for a single instant forget what he is, nor the constant attention which he excites; he studies attitude incessantly,— from whence it results that he is never natural, not even when he is sincere. He has three expressions, not one of which is that of simple benevolence. The most habitual appears to be that of severity. Another, though rarer expression, suits perhaps better his fine face — it is that of solemnity; a third is that of politeness, in which are mixed some shades of gentleness and grace, that serve to temper the chill produced by the two former. But notwithstanding this grace, there is still something which injures the moral influence of the man ; it is, that each expression is assumed or east off at will, without the least trace of one remaining to modify the one next adopted. For such change we are not prepared, and it therefore appears like a mask, that can be put on or off at pleasure. Let not my meaning of the word mask be misunderstood, — I employ it according to its strict etymology. In Greek, hypocrite means an actor: the hypocrite Avas a man who masked himself to perform a play. I would only say, then, that the emperor is always engaged in acting his part.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROE. 221
Hypocrite or actor are ill-sounding words, especially in the mouth of one who professes to be impartial and respectful. But it appears to me that, to intelligent readers, and it is only such that I address, words are nothing in themselves; their importance depends upon the sense that is given to them. I do not say that the physiognomy of this prince lacks candour, but it lacks natural expression. Thus, the chief evil under which Russia suffers, the absence of liberty, is depicted even on the countenance of its sovereign : he has many masks, but no face. Seek for the man, and you still always find the emperor.
I believe thi
s remark may be turned to his praise ; he acts his part conscientiously. He would accuse himself of weakness were he to be for a single moment plain and simple, or were he to allow it to be seen that he lived, thought, and felt as do common mortals. Without seeming to partake of any of our affections, he is always governor, judge, general, admiral, prince, — never anything more, — never anything less. He will surely grow weary of all this effort as he advances in life; yet it will place him high in the opinion of lñs people, and perhaps of the world, for the multitude admire the efforts which astonish them, — they pride themselves in seeing the pains that are taken to dazzle them.
Those who knew the Emperor Alexander, eulogise that prince on entirely different grounds. The qualities and the faults of the two brothers were altogether opposite ; there was no resemblance, and likewise no sympathy between them. In this country, the memory of a defunct emperor is little honoured, and in the present instance inclination accords with the policy L 3
222 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROR —
that -would always have the preceding reign forgotten. Peter the Great is more nearly resembled by Nicholas than by Alexander, and he is more the fashion at the present day. If the ancestors of the emperors are flattered, their immediate predecessors are invariably calumniated.
The present emperor never lays aside the air of supreme majesty except in his family intercourse. It is there only that he recollects that the natural man has pleasures independent of the duties of state; at least, I hope that it is this disinterested sentiment which attaches him to his domestic circle. His private virtues no doubt aid him in his public capacity, by securing for him the esteem of the world; but I believe he would practise them independently of this calculation.
Among the Russians, sovereign power is respected as is a religion the obligations and authority of which stand independently of the personal merit of its priests: the virtues of the prince being superfluous, are so much the more sincere.
If I lived at Petersburg I should become a courtier, not from any love of place or power, nor from any puerile vanity, but from the desire of discovering some road that might reach the heart of a man who differs from all others. Insensibility is not in him a natural vice, it is the inevitable result of a position which he has not chosen, and which he cannot quit.
To abdicate a disputed power would be sometimes a revenge, to abdicate an absolute power would be an act of cowardice.
The singular destiny of an Emperor of Russia inspires me, first, with a lively emotion of curiosity,
HIS UNENVIABLE STATE.223
and afterwards with a feeling of pity. Who would not commiserate the state of this glorious exile ? I cannot tell whether the Emperor Nicholas has re-ceiyed from God a heart susceptible of friendship, but I feel as though the desire of testifying a disinterested attachment to a man to whom society refuses equals, might take the place of ambition. The danger even, would give to such zeal the charm of enthusiasm. What! it will be said, attachment for a man who has nothing of humanity about him ; whose severe physiognomy inspires a respect always mingled with fear, whose firm and fixed looks, in excluding familiarity, command obedience, and whose mouth, when it smiles, does not harmonise with the expression of the eyes; attachment for a man, in short, who never for a moment forgets to play his part as an absolute monarch !
And wherefore not ? This want of harmony, this apparent harshness, is not a crime but a misfortune. I view in it a forced habit, not a natural character; and believing that, I can see into this man whom you calumniate as much by your fears and your precautions as your flatteries, I can feel all that it must cost him to perform his duty as a sovereign, and I woiúd not abandon so pitiable a deity of earth to the implacable envy and the hypocritical submission of his slaves. To find again the neighbour in the prince, to love him as a brother, would be a religious vocation, and a work of charity that would gain the blessing of heaven.
The more we see of the court, more especially of
the court of Russia, the greater compassion must we
feel for him who has to preside over it. It is a
theatre, on whose boards the actors pass their life in
l 4
224 UNENVIABLE TOSITION OF THE EMPEEOIÏ.
rehearsals. No one knows his part, and the day for the representation never arrives, because the manager is never satisfied with the proficiency of his corps. Actors and managers thus pass their life in preparing, correcting and perfecting their interminable drama of society, the title of which is " The civilisation of the North." If it be so fatiguing to the audience, what must it be to the performers !
The emperor is, by extraction, more a German than a Russ. The fineness of his features, the regularity of his profile, his military figure, his bearing, naturally a little stiíf, all remind one of Germany rather than of Muscovy. His Teutonic temperament must have been long schooled and fettered ere he could have become, as he now is, a thorough Russian. Who knows ? — he was perhaps born a plain good-natured man ! If so, what must he not have endured before he could appear only as the chieftain of the Slavonians? The obligation of achieving a continual victory over himself in order to reign over others, will explain much in the character of the Emperor Nicholas.
Far from inspiring me with dislike, these things attract me. I cannot help viewing with interest one feared by the rest of the world, and who is, in reality, only so Jiiuch the more to be commiserated.
To escape as much as possible from the constraint which he imposes on himself, he is as restless as a lion in a cage, or a patient in a fever; he is constantly moving on foot or on horseback ; reviewing, carrying on little wars, sailing, manoeuvring his fleet, giving and receiving fetes. Leisure is that which is most dreaded at tliis court; whence I conclude that
A COURT PRESENTATION.225
no where else is ennui so much felt. The emperor travels incessantly ; he journeys over at least 1500 leagues every season, and he has no notion that others have not the strength to do as he does. The empress loves him, and dreads leaving him; she therefore follows him as well as she can, and is dying of the fatigues and excitement consequent upon this life.
So complete an absence of quiet and regularity must be injurious to the education of their children. The young princes do not live sufficiently isolated to avoid the evil influences which the frivolity of a court always in motion, the absence of all interesting and connective conversation, and the impossibility of meditation, must exert upon their character. TVben I think of the distribution of their time, I have little hope even of the talents which they exhibit, I fear just as I would for the enduring beauty of a flower whose roots were not in their natural soil. Every thing is founded on appearance in Russia; whence it is that everything inspires mistrust.
I was presented tins evening, not by the French ambassador, but by the grand master of the court ceremonies. Such was the order of the emperor, of which I was previously informed by our ambassador. I cannot tell whether this is the usual proceeding, but it was the manner in which I was presented to their imperial majesties.
All the foreigners admitted to the honour of approaching their persons, were assembled together in one of the saloons which they would have to cross in proceeding to open the ball. We arrived at the L 5
226VOICE OF THE EMPEROR.
appointed hour, and had to wait a long time for the appearance of the illustrious personages.
There were with me two or three French, a Pole, a Genevese, and several Germans. The opposite side of the saloon was occupied by a row of Russian ladies, assembled there to pay their court.
The Emperor received us with a refined and graceful politeness. At the first glance it was easy to recognise a man who, notwithstanding his power, is obliged and accustomed to humour the self-love of others.
In order to intimate to me that I might, without displeasing him, survey his empire, his majesty did me the honour of saying that it was at least necessary to see Moscow and Nijni before a just idea of the country could be f
ormed. i: Petersburg is Russian," he added, " but it is not Russia."
These few words were pronounced in a tone of voice that could not be forgotten, so strongly was it marked by authoritativeness and firmness. Every body had spoken to me of the imposing manners, the noble features, and the commanding figure of the emperor, but no one had prepared me for the power of his voice : it is that of a man born to command. In it there is neither effort nor study, it is a gift developed only by habitual use.
The Empress, on a near approach, has a most winning expression of countenance, and the sound of her voice is as sweetly penetrating as that of the emperor is naturally imperious.
She asked me if 1 came to Petersburg with the simple object of travelling. I replied in the affirm-
AFFABILITY OF THE EMPRESS.227
ative. " I know that you are a curious observer," she continued.
" Yes Madame," I answered, " it is curiosity which brings me to Russia; and this time, at least, I do not regret having yielded to a passion for travel."
" You really think so ? " she replied with a gracefulness of manner that was very charming.
" It appears to me that there are such wonderful objects in this country, that to believe them requires that we should see them with the eyes."
" I shoiüd wish you to see much and to view favourably."
" This wish of your majesty's is an encouragement."
Cí If you think well of us, you will say so, but it will be useless; you will not be believed: we are ill understood, and people will not understand us better."
Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia Page 22
