by Cleo Coyle
*Cooking tip: Lemon zest is simply the grated rind of a lemon. When you “zest” the lemon with a hand grater or “zester,” use a light touch so you don’t end up taking the bitter white pith beneath the skin, as well. You only want those tiny but flavorful pieces of bright lemony rind.
The Village Blend’s Banana Bread Muffins
Another favorite of Clare’s customers, these tender, slightly sweet muffins are kissed with the flavors of banana and vanilla. They can be made in any standard muffin or cupcake pan, yet they bake up big and beautiful enough to be served in a café or bakery. While amazing on their own, Clare takes them to a whole new level of goodness by crowning them with her Homemade Maple-Crunch Frosting (recipe follows). Her customers devour them in the morning for breakfast and in the afternoon or evening as a satisfying snack; and, yes, they pair spectacularly with Clare’s freshly roasted coffee.
Makes 12 muffins
2 large eggs, room temperature
½ cup vegetable or canola oil
½ cup whole milk (mixed with the next ingredient . . .)
1 teaspoon white vinegar
1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon salt (standard table salt)
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed
3 very ripe bananas (medium to large), mash well with fork and measure out exactly 1 cup mashed bananas (see cooking tip on how to ripen bananas fast*)
2 cups all-purpose flour, spoon into cup and level off
Maple-Crunch Frosting (recipe follows)
Step 1—Prep oven and pan: First preheat oven to 375°F. Line 12 cups of standard-size muffin (or cupcake) pan with paper liners. Coat the papers lightly with nonstick cooking spray to prevent sticking.
Step 2—One-bowl mixing method: Whisk the eggs well. Add the oil, whole milk that you’ve premixed with white vinegar, vanilla extract, salt, baking soda, and baking powder. Whisk until well blended. Add the white and dark brown sugars and whisk until smooth. Now whisk in exactly 1 cup of mashed ripe bananas, combining well. Switching to a rubber spatula, stir in the flour, making sure all of the flour is incorporated into the batter, but do not overmix. Divide batter evenly among the 12 muffin cups—for exact measure, spoon ⅓ cup of batter into each cup, which should nearly fill them.
Step 3—Bake and cool: Bake in your preheated 375°F oven for 20 to 22 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a test muffin comes out clean. Remove muffins from pan after five or so minutes of cooling. (If left in the hot pan, muffin bottoms may steam and become tough.) Finish cooling on a rack. These muffins are absolutely delicious on their own. Or try finishing them the way Clare does for her shop with her Homemade Maple-Crunch Frosting (recipe follows)—just be sure the muffins are completely cooled before frosting.
*Cooking tip: To ripen bananas fast, place yellow bananas on a foil-covered baking sheet and bake at 375°F for 5 minutes on each side (for a total of 10 minutes). Bananas will blacken. Peel right away (be careful, they’re hot) and cool flesh in fridge before mashing.
Clare’s Homemade Maple-Crunch Frosting
Clare developed this magnificent maple frosting years ago for her In the Kitchen with Clare column, which she wrote while raising her daughter in the suburbs of New Jersey. The frosting has a delightfully crunchy texture and pairs beautifully with spice cakes and muffins, including plain, pumpkin, oatmeal, zucchini, and banana. Clare shared the recipe with her baker, instructing her to use it on the Village Blend’s Banana Bread Muffins. Now she happily shares it with you.
Makes about 2½ cups frosting (enough to generously frost 24 muffins or cupcakes)
*For Maple Nut Crunch:
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar (packed)
1 heaping cup chopped walnuts or pecans
For Maple Frosting:
10 tablespoons (1 stick + 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
3½ cups confectioners’ (powdered) sugar
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
4 tablespoons whole milk
½ teaspoon salt (standard table salt)
Step 1—Make the crunch: First preheat oven to 325°F. In a saucepan over medium-low heat, warm the maple syrup and stir in the dark brown sugar until dissolved. When mixture begins to simmer, pour in chopped walnuts or pecans and stir to coat well. Spread mixture evenly on a foil-covered baking sheet. Bake for 5 minutes, stir well, and finish baking for another 3 to 4 minutes. Watch carefully and do not allow the nuts to overcook and scorch. Cool these super-crunchy, maple-sweetened nuts before using them in the next step. To speed up the cooling process, transfer the foil (with the nuts on them) onto a cool pan and slip the pan into the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
Step 2—Mix maple frosting: In a large mixing bowl, beat the softened butter until fluffy. Add 2 cups of the confectioners’ sugar, half the milk (2 tablespoons), and all of the maple syrup and salt. Beat again and continue adding the rest of the sugar (1½ cups) and milk (2 tablespoons). If the frosting seems too thick, add a bit more milk. If it seems too thin, add more sugar. When you’re happy with the spreadable texture of the frosting, fold in the heaping cup of nut crunch. Before frosting your muffins (or cakes), make sure they are completely cool first, and . . . eat with plenty of joy!
*Cooking tip: If you double the amount of Maple Nut Crunch in this recipe, you can use 1 cup for the frosting and reserve the second cup for sprinkling on yogurt, ice cream, or salads.
Chicken Schnitzel Sandwich with Bavarian Beer Cheese
Clare’s late-night snack on the Hudson River is a favorite Oktoberfest treat at Pier 66 Maritime. These crunchy chicken schnitzel sandwiches are served on seeded buns with mayonnaise, beer cheese, and a squirt of lemon juice. Romaine lettuce usually tops the sandwich, but iceberg lettuce works just as well with its cool crunch. The secret to great schnitzel is pounding the chicken thin and pan frying until the breading is golden brown and crunchy. Though not traditional, you can substitute panko for bread crumbs in this recipe to achieve added crispiness.
Serves 4
2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten with fork
1 cup bread crumbs, or panko (unseasoned)
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil or olive oil for frying
4 sandwich rolls
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 lemon (optional)
1 cup chopped romaine or iceberg lettuce
2 tablespoons Bavarian Beer Cheese (recipe follows)
Salt and pepper to taste
Step 1—Prepare the chicken: Cut the breasts in half lengthwise and place pieces between 2 sheets of heavy plastic. Pound on a cutting board or other firm and solid surface using the flat side of a meat mallet until filet is ½ to ¼ inch in thickness. Season pieces with salt and pepper.
Step 2—Bread the chicken: You need 3 shallow bowls for this step. Place the flour in one bowl; the beaten eggs in another; the bread crumbs in a third. Dredge each piece of chicken in flour, dip in the beaten eggs, and thoroughly coat with the bread crumbs.
Step 3—Frying: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, fry breaded chicken in batches of 2, until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. You can hold the chicken in a preheated 200°F oven for 30 minutes before the chicken begins to dry out.
Step 4—Assemble the sandwiches: Slather mayonnaise over the bottom half of each sandwich roll. Top it with 1 piece of chicken, a dash of (optional) lemon juice, and chopped lettuce. Spread a thin layer of Bavarian Beer Cheese (recipe follows) on the top half of each sandwich roll, and assemble the sandwich.
Bavarian
Beer Cheese
Obatzda is a classic “beer hall” spread made with a few simple ingredients that combine to create a delightfully complex flavor. Obatzda is typically served with soft, warm Bavarian pretzels, on rye bread, or with rings of raw radishes. It also makes a great spread for chicken or pork schnitzel sandwiches, or liverwurst sandwiches. It’s even a great substitute for cheese on a good old American ham sandwich.
1 pound Camembert (or Brie) cheese, roughly chopped
¾ cup cream cheese
3 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons sweet or hot paprika (your choice)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
⅓ cup German beer (or slightly less, see directions)
Step 1—With a fork, mash together the Camembert (or Brie), softened cream cheese, and softened butter until mixed well. You won’t be able to smash all the cheese chunks, but that’s okay. The lumps give the spread rustic texture.
Step 2—Mix in the finely chopped onions, paprika, salt, and pepper. Add the beer, a tablespoon at a time, mixing well. Keep adding the beer until you reach desired consistency. It should be easy to spread, but not wet or runny. (Note: You do not have to add all the beer!) Let the spread sit for 30 minutes to reach room temperature. Serve garnished with a little extra paprika. Enjoy with rye bread, warm pretzels, bagged pretzels, raw radishes, or as a sandwich spread.
Matt’s Creamy Chipotle Chicken
When Clare needed Matt’s help to create her own Cinder profile, she went to his warehouse, where her ex-husband served up this Mexican-inspired chicken. Though based on a traditional recipe, Matt added a unique coffee-based marinade that livened up the flavor of the dark-meat chicken and complemented the creamy, smoky chipotle sauce. Warm flour tortillas are a must, to sop up the hot pink gravy. To see a photo of this dish, visit Cleo Coyle’s online coffeehouse at coffeehousemystery.com, where you can also download a free, illustrated guide to this recipe section.
Serves 4
8 pieces bone-in chicken thighs, drumsticks, or both
2 to 3 cups cold coffee
1 tablespoon cumin
2 tablespoons chili powder, divided
1 teaspoon finely ground sea salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 12-ounce can evaporated milk
1 chipotle pepper (in adobo sauce, see note*)
3 teaspoons adobo sauce
1 tablespoon flour
4 to 6 flour tortillas
*Note: For this recipe, use canned chipotle peppers packed in adobo sauce.
Step 1—Marinate the chicken: In a shallow airtight container, mix the cold coffee, cumin, 1 tablespoon of the chili powder, sea salt, and black pepper. Roll each piece of chicken in the marinade and arrange the pieces in a single layer (no overlapping) with their skin sides up. Marinate for 1 or 2 hours in the refrigerator but no more. Drain the chicken and let it reach room temperature.
Step 2—Roast the chicken: Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large skillet or sauté pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter and blend in 1 tablespoon of the chili powder and the onion powder. Roll the chicken pieces in the warm butter mixture and line them up on a foiled and greased baking pan, skin side up. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn the chicken over and cover loosely with foil. Bake until chicken is cooked through, about 20 more minutes. Remove from oven and let the chicken rest under the foil.
Step 3—Make the sauce: In a food processor, blend the evaporated milk, the chipotle pepper, and the adobo sauce. Set aside. In a saucepan over low heat, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter, then add 1 tablespoon of flour. Stir until a thick roux forms, about 2 minutes. Add the milk-chipotle-adobo mixture to the pan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat when the sauce has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Step 4—Serve: Serve the chicken pieces in individual bowls and spoon on sauce. Be generous with Matt’s creamy, smoky sauce, including plenty of extra for sopping up with warm flour tortillas.
Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin with Pineapple
As young newlyweds, Matt and Clare first enjoyed this sweet and savory pork dish in Hawaii, during a sourcing trip for Kona. Clare loved this dish so much that she asked their hosts for the recipe. Back home in New York, Matt tweaked it with a few favorite spices. Tenderized by the pineapple, with a gentle heat, this pork serves up as a mouthwatering fusion of flavors and a truly satisfying feast.
Serves 4 to 6
3- to 5-pound pork tenderloin
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon white pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 to 8 slices bacon
1½ cups pineapple juice (divided)
4 tablespoons butter
⅓ cup dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon Wondra flour (optional)
Step 1—Prep the pork: Preheat oven to 400°F. Wash pork and pat dry; let it sit until it reaches room temperature (about 15 minutes).
Step 2—Dry rub and roast: In a deep dish, thoroughly blend the cumin, garlic powder, chili powder, sweet paprika, and white pepper. Rub the pork loin until it is completely coated. Line a roasting pan with foil and grease the foil with vegetable oil. Wrap the bacon around the roast, starting at the front, just slightly overlapping each piece. (The amount of bacon will depend on the size of your roast, but a rule of thumb is two slices per pound.) Pour 1 cup of your pineapple juice over the meat and place the pan in the oven for 40 minutes.
Step 3—Make the glaze: In a small saucepan, melt the butter and sugar together, then add the remaining ½ cup pineapple juice. Set aside. At the 40-minute mark, take the pork out of the oven, pour the sugar and juice mixture over the roast, and cover the pan tightly with foil (be sure it’s sealed). Lower the temperature to 350°F and roast for approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes, basting every 20 minutes with the glazed meat juices.
Step 4—Serve: Remove from oven, uncover, and let the juices collect in the meat for about 20 minutes, and then slice and serve. You can spoon drippings over the meat, or if you prefer thicker gravy, pour the drippings into a saucepan, heat to a boil, and make a paste from 1 tablespoon Wondra flour mixed with 2 tablespoons of the drippings. Slowly add the paste to the boiling drippings and cook for 2 to 5 minutes or until the gravy is thick.
Matt’s Quick and Easy Brandy Mushroom Gravy
When you love cooking, but you live in a warehouse with no oven and a couple of hot plates, you make do. Charcoal grill on the roof? Check. Boiling ramen noodles in a coffeepot? Ditto. You do what you have to do—and one of those things is make gravy. Matt Allegro’s Brandy Mushroom Gravy beautifully brightens a boring boiled chicken breast or plain pan-fried pork chop. The rich caramelized taste—from that dash of brandy—complements grilled meats, too, especially beef (even when cooked on a warehouse roof).
Makes 2 to 3 cups
½ cup (1 stick) butter
6 cloves garlic, crushed
3 scallions, sliced
½ pound mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons brandy
1½ cups heavy cream
Step 1—Cook the veggies: Melt the butter in a pan over moderate heat and add the crushed garlic, sliced scallions, and mushrooms. You can use button mushrooms, chanterelles, cremini, portobellos, or a blend. Cook until mushrooms are soft and golden brown, 6 to 10 minutes.
Step 2—Finish the gravy: Add the brandy and cream and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened.
Step 3—Serve: Serve over grilled or roasted beef, pork, or chicken. Or try it over mashed po
tatoes. Matt’s recipe for Fluffy Garlic Mashed Potatoes follows this one.
Matt’s Fluffy Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Matt Allegro can’t help adding a dash of Italian to many of his dishes. For his famous fluffy mashed potatoes, he infuses crushed garlic into rich cream. The final perfect texture comes not from a food mill or electric mixer, but from his own elbow grease. With his pared-down kitchen, he first uses a hand masher to crush the cooked potatoes. Then he whips them into a light and fluffy cloud with nothing more than a simple fork—and you can, too; just follow his recipe.
Serves 4 to 6
⅔ cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons butter
5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 pounds white potatoes
1 tablespoon salt (standard table salt)
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
Step 1—Into a small saucepan, combine the cream, butter, and garlic. Bring to a simmer over low to medium heat. Promptly remove from heat and set aside, allowing the flavors to mingle as you complete the next step.
Step 2—Peel and dice the potatoes into pieces of roughly the same size. Place them in a large saucepan and toss them with the salt and garlic powder, then cover completely with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and maintain a rolling boil throughout the cooking. When the potatoes break apart after being stabbed with a fork, they are done. (Test the potatoes after 15 minutes, but the cooking may take up to 30 minutes, depending on the size of your potato pieces and the intensity of your boil.)
Step 3—Remove the potatoes from the heat and drain well. Mash them with a potato masher and set aside. Return to the garlic-cream mixture that you made in Step 1 and strain out the garlic pieces. Add the infused cream to the mashed potatoes and whip with a fork until fluffy. This potato side dish is fantastic with gravy, but flavorful enough to stand on its own.
