Have you received the watercolour from Signora Anna and my Arabic paper? Many loves from the girls.
Adieu.
My dear Lord, ever your very affectionate
H. A. C.
On July 31st the travellers made one final excursion to see a cave, at some distance from Bangalore; it was said to communicate with the fort, but that did not seem very probable, as the distance was too great underground.
July 31st, Bangalore, Henrietta to Lord Clive
I thank you much for the letter I received this morning. We are in the act of packing up. Part of the baggage is gone and we march tomorrow morning. I told Captain Brown what you said about the carriage of our affairs which are pretty numerous. We are obliged to leave the great tent and everything not absolutely necessary. The gardener shall stay and bring your plants and we will hunt for more seeds for you on our journey. I am very glad you mention Dindigal as we must go by Coimbatoor at least so at present … We are well and leave this place with regret not expecting to be cold again for sometime. I told Signora Anna what you said about the throne. I do not think she intends the engraving at least at present as she cannot work at it upon the road.
Pray let me know when the Queen is expected at Madras because we must send in our letters if it will be soon. Pray return my letters.
Adieu.
Many loves to you from the girls.
Ever, my dear Lord, yours very affectionately.
H. A. C.
The paper is abominable. Pray remember they must not dash water over my bulbs or they will all die.
The travellers left Bangalore on August 1st and went to Beedadee, about nineteen miles on their way to Seringapatam; their baggage had been sent to Ramgherry the day before. The country was wild, covered with thick jungle and infested with tigers. It was much hotter than it had been for some time; the thermometer reached 88 degrees in the middle of the day. Their journey was beautiful but a bit unnerving as there appeared to be many places where tigers might conceal themselves. They visited the tomb of Haidar’s fakeer, and his family, where they were invited to come in. Strangely, the fakeer’s son did not get up to make them a salaam, though they went into the room where he was sitting and saw his wives. He made three salaams down to the ground to his mother, an old widow, who was sitting down supported by cushions, with her son’s daughters, and wives, on each side of her; according to Charly, ‘she never moved, for widows never do’. The place was like a choultry, with high walls around it, and the attendants were Moorish slaves. Not having an interpreter, the travellers could not make out why they had been invited to enter, but they stayed some time. When they left the building they found Giaffer in a great state of excitement. He immediately questioned them as to what had passed, asked if they had eaten anything, and very seriously insisted that they should never enter any native house without his knowledge. In the evening, Giaffier intercepted a present of dinner sent by the fakeer’s son and gave it away to the followers.
August 2nd, Rangherry, Henrietta to Lord Clive
I must write a few words to tell you that we are all well here. We left Bangalore yesterday morning and went to Beedadee. It was a long stage but the road was very pleasant, though very wild. The hills near the villages were so much covered with wood that it put me in mind of those in Berkshire, which I think a great compliment to it. Today the drive has been beautiful the trees were large and small parks cultivated with wild rocks more like Shelton, the whole really charming, and not bad for my lion. We see new villages springing up everywhere since Colonel Close and Purneah came here. There is a small one at this place which is, as Saffer informs me, to be called after you. We are all pleased. Tomorrow we proceed to Chinnapatam where we halt a day and from thence Captain Brown goes on to Seringapatam to prepare for us. I imagine we shall be there on Tuesday by a very long march or on Wednesday. Captain Brown has left in charge William Read of the 33rd (who is at present Governor of Bangalore) to continue to send you the produce of the garden and the charge of the things we have left there vegetable and moveable. He is adjunct of that Regiment. I think I have no particular news to tell you. We walked about in the evening. I saw a great many of the trees we brought from Vandalore in the jungle, but no tygers, which we had heard of. Adieu. The girls desire their loves to you.
Ever, my dear Lord,
yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
In the evening of August 4th Henrietta, Charly, Anna and Harry went to see two Hindu temples. In the first temple there was a large figure of Vishnu which was better proportioned than any they had yet seen. There were many small figures in the other temple, but they were not near enough to see them distinctly. The thermometer was as high as 90 degrees in the middle of the day. The travellers received shawls and gold dresses. On August 5th the party encamped two miles beyond Moudean in order to shorten the next day’s journey.
August 5th, Moudean, Henrietta to Lord Clive
Here we are within seventeen miles of Seringapatam very hot, but well. I am sorry to see how soon heat affects the looks of my two ladies. I am afraid you will not see any rose till we get to England again. The change of climate since Bangalore is astonishing. In twenty-five miles the thermometer was near 90 degrees and I am afraid it will not be cool till we leave the Mysore, which I shall do as soon as possible. Yesterday at Duddoor, Purneah’s son, Narsingrow (dressed in blue satin with a red velvet umbrella held over his head and his horse’s bridle studded with silver) and his brother, Bucherow met us. The son is good looking and fat. The brother looks dull, the others very lively quick looking old men. This morning they waited near this place and were on horseback till I came to the tents. I never saw more comical figures in my life. I wish I could have put you under my palanquin. I think we would have been amused. They looked more like ancient ladies than men. They have gone on and will meet us at the River tomorrow. There it is very high, which I am glad as I hear that when that is the case it is never very hot. Only accounts vary so much that it is difficult to know what to believe. Captain Brown went on yesterday to settle all about our crossing the Cauvary, which does not sound pleasant in a basket boat. The country is less beautiful than when I wrote last and will do so all the way, I understand, till we come to bare rocks at Seringapatam. Many loves to you from the girls, who will write to you when we have seen some sights. We heard yesterday that Dummul was taken; therefore Dhoondiah has no force left.
Adieu. My dear Lord
H. A. C.
* The Madras Lottery, established in 1797, raffled off objects to make funds to provide the native poor of Madras with such projects as hospitals and dispensaries. Funds were used for the public good.
† Members of the government and their families were not allowed to accept gifts of jewels or expensive items. Presents of shawls and dresses were allowed and were usually exchanged along with a ceremony of betel and rose water.
‡ Francis Buchanan, MD, A Journey from Madras through the Countries of Mysore, Canara, and Malabar, 3 volumes, 1800 written under the orders of the Most Noble the Marquis Wellesley, Governor General of India
§ I did not find this paper among Henrietta’s letters.
¶ In Tonelli’s painting, Tipu Sultan is on his throne.
Seringapatam: August 6th–10th
‘I saw Haidar’s and Tipu’s wives. Some were handsome but still nothing like the beauties in the Arabian Nights nor no pearls like pigeon’s eggs.’
Around Seringapatam on August 6th, the travellers found the country appeared barren, except for a paddy field here and there. They crossed the river Cauvery in two canoes tied together containing eighty persons. The other kinds of boats were made of basketwork covered with leather and quite round. The river was not very deep, having fallen seven or eight feet during the last three or four days. The elephants walked through and the bullocks swam: the animals were let loose, and the first in regulated the rest. If he went on well, they did, but if he stopped, the other animals followed his example.
August 6th, Henrietta’s journal
We came to the side of the Cauvery before eight o’clock. The country is dreary and covered with stones, which increase as you approach the town. The river had sunk considerably and there could not be the least danger or alarm in passing it which was done in five minutes.
I went to the Doulat Baugh and was received there by Colonel Samin, Major Agra and Captain Marriot. It is close to the river, which is very handsome, rapid with large stones and rocks in the centre. There is a high wall before the veranda to the garden and the entrance is by a small door on one side into the little court. There are four rooms besides the halls and in another court several more I believe formerly inhabited by the ladies. The palace is upon the same plan as that of Bangalore but much smaller. The garden is pretty and there are rows of fountains with flowers in a border round them.
In the evening I went to the mausoleum of Haidar. It is a square room with a large door on the top with a veranda supported by black stone pillars from the Cauvery. The Mausoleum contains the bodies of Haidar, Tipu and his mother, all covered with green and silver cloth. Tipu’s besides with one of gold with flowers spread on them and perfumes burning at their feet. The room is painted with the spots of the Tyger, Tipu’s usual emblems, upon a light brown ground.* There is certainly something very striking in this place. It is kept in high order, a pension being allotted for that purpose and it conveys a great respect to the remains of a dead relation than any European monument can ever do. There is a mosque near it which is painted in the same manner and very neat, the steps for the Iman of the same black, those which when polished have the appearance of marble.
The Lal Baugh is situated in the middle of a very large garden and though upon the same plan as that at Bangalore is much superior to it in proportion. There are two rooms at each end of the gallery that crosses the end of the great hall, very gay and pleasant that has just been fitted up by Colonel Close. He lives in the lower part. When I heard of the desolation and destruction of the cypresses which were in every direction by each side of the walls and that it was done by the English,† I could not wonder so much that Tipu disliked the place and never came to it. The change must be very great. I should have preferred very much being there to the Doulat Baugh, which is noisy from being near the roar of the river and not surrounded by the garden. I forgot to mention that on the walls of the Doulat Baugh is a painting of Baillie’s defeat, most vilely done in the complete Eastern manner without the least regard to perspective. It is on one side of the door. On the other is Tipu … just as he travelled and his old munshi by his side on horseback. Above is Haidar … All are in the usual way of Eastern figures. Those of Baillie’s defeat are very absurd. Some people are without their heads. Others cut in two.
August 7th, Seringapatam, Henrietta to Lord Clive
My dear Lord Clive … We are now in the Doulat Baugh, which is pleasantly situated upon the bank of the river. When Colonel Close was at Bangalore it was agreed that as Colonel Wellesley had been so civil about his house it was right to go to that, though I should have preferred the Lal Baugh very much … In the evening we went to the Lal Baugh, which really is charming. The garden is not in great order but the situation is very pleasant and the whole being surrounded by walls and garden is more like Chantilly than any place I know.
We went to Haidar’s fort and saw the remains of Tipu. The place is kept in high order and is beautiful. It certainly gives one more the idea of respect and attention to the dead than any of our monuments.
This morning I have had a visit from Captain Marriott’s [Thomas: later Lieut. Colonel] eight princes. They are fine little boys. The eldest is very like Haidar and Tipu. Afterwards Bucherow made me a visit and I expressed a wish to have the pictures of the Rajah and Rannie to which he says there will not be any objection. Captain Brown afterwards explained to him that it was impossible for me to receive any present of value from any person and begs he prevent any such thing from being offered. This he has promised to do.
We have just heard of Dhoondiah having escaped with his great guns and that his army had in part been surrounded and the rest dispersed except a part which he had sent to another place on the River. His stores, baggage, elephants are all taken. Many of his people threw themselves in the river meaning to swim and were drowned. The great guns fired upon the troops … men and horses killed. I suppose you have heard all this long ago.
Today we breakfast at Colonel Jason’s garden where we are to see the breaches that were made and hear the history of the siege.
Loves from the girls, ever my dear Lord,
yours very affectionately
H. A. C.
Charly in her journal entry for August 7th offered a succinct description of the young princes … ‘The eldest of them is twelve years old, and the youngest between three and four; some of them are good-looking, but they have a little of Tipu’s ferocious look, apparent in all.’
Following a visit to Tipu’s zenana, Charly gave her account of Haidar’s and Tipu’s wives:
‘We saw Haidar’s first. There were thirty or forty of them in a verandah altogether; the head-lady sat in the middle, dressed in a white muslin dress, and a white shawl; all the rest had coloured shawls, which are the only coloured things they can wear, as they are widows; they had one pair of gold earrings only.
‘One of Haidar’s wives could not come out of her room; therefore we went into it. It was, I supposed, at the utmost ten feet long, and six feet broad. The only light it had was from the door. She is a very clever woman, and can read and write Persian, (which not above one in a hundred can). They say she told Tipu, two or three days before the storming of Seringapatam, that she was sure it would be taken and he had better make peace.
‘We went to about nine or ten different verandahs to see them all, some of them were of a very light complexion and were very beautiful. In the last was a relation of Chunda Sahib. She was sitting in the middle of the verandah and cried a great deal; they all did a little, out of form, but she really seemed to feel much. They are very quarrelsome, and seldom meet, but they did so this occasion to see us. They each have slaves, and there is only one man allowed to go into the zenana, to keep the slaves in order.’
August 7th, Henrietta’s journal
I went to the zenana where we were received by the chief guard at the door and conducted to Haidar’s real wife … She has the appearance of having been a very beautiful woman … and from thence to Tipu’s wives and daughters where I saw also the youngest sons who are still in the zenana. Some of the women have fine features and are light brown. His daughters were dressed with jewels and pearls. Their eyes were large and there is a great degree of family likeness between them all. The last we saw was the real wife of Tipu … She was old, rather large, and not handsome. She met me on the step of the veranda and cried so much that it was really painful to see her. She was in more state than the rest and had a carpet of scarlet and gold to sit on supported by cushions. I was really glad to quit her. She was really distressed to a great degree. It is not surprising.
The place where they live is large. The court in the middle has trees planted in it and on each side there are verandas where the ladies sit when they meet together. Their private apartments, I did not see, except that which I have mentioned.
We went through the ceremonies of receiving betel, limes, and not being perfumed, but poisoned with bad oil of sandalwood, besides a shower of rose water. The bottles of the great Begum were filigree. She had more an air of state than the other ladies.
Two or three times a year Tipu visited the zenana in form and they were all drawn out round him. He usually spoke to them for a few minutes and went away. There are women of all castes and religions (Hindus and Christians) but he obliged them to change their religion immediately upon arriving there.
Many of them are the children of fathers whom he had destroyed. Whenever any person was executed, he seized their effects and the girls were sent into the zenana. Sometimes there were two or three sisters of the same family. They pretended some of them to cry but I do not think they all did it sincerely.
The Moor women never wear jewels after the death of their husbands, but they have been allowed to keep all they had at Tipu’s death. Tipu had made his father’s wives give up all their jewels and fine clothes when Haidar died. After the death of Tipu when Haidar’s wives found that they were better treated than they themselves had been, a violent quarrel broke out between the ladies. I hear that it proceeded to very violent language and blows as they insisted on dividing the effects of Tipu’s ladies.
When the travellers met Purneah’s family, Charly found that his wife ‘covered with ornaments from head to foot’ was decidedly ‘not handsome’. Likewise, Henrietta described Purneah’s wife in similar terms as ‘not a beauty … [there was] something less graceful in her appearance than those belonging to Tipu’. Charly concluded her narrative of the day’s varied events saying, ‘We saw the gate where Tipu was killed; the marks of blood are still to be seen upon the walls. We dined at Colonel Saxon’s; his house is the one which Futteh Haidar occupied. Afterwards we saw the arsenal, and the palace of the old Rajah of Mysore; it must have been very beautiful, but it is now in ruins; all the doors had ivory figures in bas-relief, as a border round them. At night the minarets were illuminated, which had a beautiful effect.’
August 7th, Henrietta’s journal
Birds of Passage Page 19
