Return the brisket to the Dutch oven, fat side up. Add the water and brown sugar at the edge of the pan. Bring the mixture to a light boil, cover, transfer to the oven, and cook 1½ hours.
Add the carrots and potatoes. The vegetables should be submerged in water; add more water, if necessary. Cover the Dutch oven and continue cooking until the meat and vegetables are very tender, about 1 hour.
Remove the brisket from the Dutch oven and defat the liquid. Meanwhile, cut the brisket across the grain into thin slices (about 1⁄8 inch thick). Return the brisket to the Dutch oven. Combine with the lemon juice and serve immediately, garnished with parsley.
Chicken and Dumplings
Serves 6 to 8
For the stew:
4 to 5 pounds bone-in skin-on chicken thighs or breasts or a combination, dried with a paper towel
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
4 carrots, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 large Spanish onion, chopped
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 bay leaves
8 cups chicken broth
¼ cup dry sherry
1 cup frozen peas
¼ cup light or heavy cream
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
For the dumplings:
½ cup whole milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1 cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
To make the stew: Sprinkle the chicken with the salt and pepper. Place a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the chicken, skin side down, and sear until well browned, about 4 minutes per side. Using tongs, remove the chicken and set aside on a plate. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin.
Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat. Reduce the heat to low, add the carrots, celery, and onion and cook until the vegetables are soft and golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the flour, thyme, and bay leaves and stir constantly for 2 minutes. Very gradually, add the chicken broth and sherry, and bring to a low boil. Return the chicken to the Dutch oven and cook, turning the chicken halfway, until the meat falls away from the bones, about 45 minutes. Remove the chicken and set aside until it is cool enough to handle. Remove the bay leaves. Take the meat off the bones and return the meat to the Dutch oven. Cool, then skim off and discard the fat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
To make the dumplings: Place the milk and butter in a medium-size bowl and stir well. Add the remaining ingredients and mix to combine. Divide into 16 balls of equal size and flatten slightly.
Reheat the stew over medium heat until warmed throughout, about 10 minutes. Gently add the dumplings to the simmering stew and cook until they have increased in size, about 15 minutes. Add the peas and cream and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Serve, garnished with the parsley.
BBQ Pork Sandwiches (Slow Cooker)
Serves 8 to 10
For the rub:
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika
2 teaspoons black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
For the pork:
4 pounds pork butt, cut into 4 chunks
2 tablespoons canola oil
For the sauce:
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, with liquid
2½ cups water
¾ cup cider vinegar
½ cup light brown sugar, loosely packed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
8 hamburger or other soft rolls
Barbecue sauce (optional)
To make the rub: Place the salt, sugars, cumin, chili powder, paprika, black pepper, and cayenne in a bowl and mix well. Dredge the pork butt in the rub and massage into the meat. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 2 days. Let the meat come to room temperature before cooking, about 1 hour.
To make the sauce: Place the tomatoes, water, cider vinegar, brown sugar, tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf, cumin, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes in a slow cooker and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions (or in a medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat) for 1½ hours. This can be made up to 2 days ahead of time.
To cook the pork: Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the oil. Add the pork, one piece at a time, allowing the pan to reheat between additions, and brown on all sides. Transfer to a plate.
Combine the sauce and pork in a slow cooker and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions (or in a medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat) until the meat is fork tender, about 4 hours. Remove the meat from the pan and degrease the sauce. When the meat has cooled somewhat, shred it with your hands and return to the degreased liquid. Reheat over low heat. Place big scoops on the buns and serve immediately, with extra barbecue sauce, if desired.
Vegetarian Chili
Serves 8
2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
2 Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red bell peppers, coarsely chopped
1 small eggplant, peeled (if desired), and cubed
2 small zucchini, cubed
1 tablespoon dried Greek oregano
1 to 2 tablespoons red pepper powder
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons ground cumin, or more to taste
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
One 15–15.5-ounce can or 2 cups cooked white beans, drained and rinsed
One 15–15.5-ounce can or 2 cups cooked black beans, drained and rinsed
Four (15–15.5-ounce) cans dark red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
One 15–15.5-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup dried brown lentils, picked over and rinsed
Two 28-ounce cans diced or whole tomatoes, coarsely chopped, including juice
Freshly chopped cilantro or basil leaves, for garnish
Lime quarters, for garnish
Place a large stockpot over medium-low heat and when it is hot, add the oil. Add the onions, garlic, peppers, eggplant, zucchini, and spices and cook until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes.
Add the beans, lentils, and tomatoes and cook, covered, for 1 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally. If the chili begins to boil, lower the heat. Cover and refrigerate in a storage container overnight.
Reheat and garnish with the basil or cilantro and serve with lime quarters.
Vegetable Curry
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 Spanish or red onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup curry powder
2 large zucchini, diced
1 yellow squash, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
2 Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled, and diced
2 cups diced tomatoes, canned or fresh
½ cup mango chutney
Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
Yogurt, for garnish
Place a medium-size stockpot over medium-low heat and when it is hot, add the oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook 10 minutes. Add the curry powder, zucchini, and squash, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Add the red pepper and apples and cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chutney and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes, if the tomatoes are canned, and 20 minutes, if fresh.
Cover and refrigerate overnight or serve immediately, garnished with cilantro le
aves and yogurt.
Spring Bread
Serves 8
This recipe is from Jennifer’s husband’s grandmother, Giuditta Chiaverini, and has been a family favorite for many years.
1 large cake yeast, broken up, or 1 package active dry yeast (0.25 ounces = 2¼ teaspoons)
2 cups warm water
1½ cups sugar
6 large eggs or 12 egg whites (for low-cholesterol diets)
1 cup canola or olive oil
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) anise extract
7 to 7½ cups unbleached flour
Butter or olive oil for rubbing on finished loaves
Place the yeast and water in a large bowl and mix well. Add the sugar and stir well. Combine the eggs, oil, and anise extract and stir again. Add the flour, gradually, and stir until it is no longer sticky and can be handled easily.
Place the dough on a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, 15 to 20 minutes.
Spray a large bowl with nonstick cooking spray. Place the dough in the bowl and cover with kitchen towels. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1½ hours. Knead again for a few minutes and then divide the dough into softball-size shapes.
At this point, you can use your imagination. You can place in free-form shapes on a baking sheet sprayed with nonstick cooking spray, in loaf pans, or five balls in a tube pan nestled close together (my favorite way to bake this bread). If you use the tube pan, the balls should be smaller than a softball (just big enough to nestle together without crowding). You will have dough left over, which can be shaped as you wish. After placing the dough on a baking sheet, cover, and set aside to rise until doubled in size, about 1 to 1½ hours.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Transfer the dough to the oven and bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes, depending upon the size of the loaf. You can use the “thump” method to test doneness. When the bread looks golden brown, “thump” it with your knuckle, and if it sounds hollow, it is ready to be removed from the oven. Cool the bread enough to remove from the pan. While still warm, to make the crust shiny, rub lightly with butter or olive oil.
Sweet and Spicy Nuts
Yield: 4 cups
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons cold water
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ to ½ teaspoon chili powder
4 cups raw pecans or walnuts
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the egg white, water, sugar, salt, and spices in a large bowl and mix well. Add the nuts to the mixture and toss until well coated. Pour onto the prepared sheet and arrange in a single layer.
Transfer to the oven and bake, stirring every 15 minutes, until the pecans appear dry, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Immediately loosen the nuts with a spatula and set aside to cool.
Friendship Squares
Yield: 24 squares
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
5 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 cup chocolate chips
½ cup shredded coconut
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Lightly grease and flour a 9 x 13-inch pan.
Place the butter and chocolate in a small metal bowl set over a pot of gently simmering water. Stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Set aside until slightly thickened and cool to the touch, 20 to 30 minutes.
Place the sugar and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle and mix until thick and creamy. Add the vanilla and mix well. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the flour, melted chocolate, and salt and mix until just combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan.
Sprinkle the top with the walnuts, chocolate chips, and coconut. Transfer to the oven and bake until a tester comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool on a wire rack.
Quilter’s Coffee
Serves 8
4 cups freshly brewed coffee
3 cups warm milk
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Place all the ingredients in a medium-size pot, whisking all the while, and heat until hot. Serve immediately.
CHAPTER FOUR
Picnic on the Veranda
“National Quilting Day always feels like the first day of spring to me,” Sylvia remarked. “Even if a crust of snow still lingers on the ground, on the third Saturday of March I always feel as if spring is dawning and summer is just around the corner.”
Anna was about to reply when, upon opening a low cupboard near the side window, she caught the unmistakable whiff of mildew. “Sylvia, you might have some water damage here.” She pulled on a pair of rubber gloves before reaching deeper into the cupboard. “I think the window seal leaked.”
“It’s little wonder, considering that the windows haven’t been updated since the Roaring Twenties.” Sylvia set a cookie sheet aside with a clatter and came over to inspect the damage for herself. “Perhaps we should have the contractor add replacement windows to the project. Summer has been after me for years to make the manor more energy efficient.”
“We might as well do it all at once,” Anna agreed, ruefully adding another few days to her mental calendar. If mold or mildew had settled in the walls—
When her gloved hand touched folded cloth, she grasped hold and pulled a bundle of faded, red-and-white gingham fabric into the open. Anna wrinkled her nose and turned her head away as the unpleasant odor intensified. “I think I found our mildew problem.”
“Oh, my goodness.” Sylvia rested her hand upon the counter and wisely came no closer. “How many times did I tell my sister never to put that tablecloth away wet? She never would take my advice.”
“This was a tablecloth?” Anna gingerly unfolded one blackened, deteriorating edge, trying to imagine that it had once been suitable to serve food upon. To her surprise she found that the center of the tablecloth had been spared from the mildew, and the cheerful red-and-white checks were not as faded.
“I haven’t seen that old tablecloth in more than fifty years,” said Sylvia. “It’s remarkable that even a thread of it is left. It saw hard use through the years, ever since my grandmother Elizabeth brought it home from the old dry goods store on Church Street in Waterford. It served as our tablecloth when we ate supper out on the veranda on sunny summer days and as our picnic blanket when we ate lunch beneath the elms on the banks of Elm Creek. When my younger brother was just a baby, my mother used to take us out nearly every day in fair weather. He would play on this tablecloth with my mother while my sister and I ran and picked flowers and threw pebbles into the creek.” Sylvia shook her head in wonder, gazing at the worn red-and-white gingham fondly. “Such memories I have of meals shared over this tablecloth—and stories, too. Old stories about the manor, of course, the tales about the first Bergstroms to come to America that my siblings and I knew well and loved—but mostly stories about my parents’ and grandparents’ childhoods. There’s something about a picnic that brings out lighthearted tales, don’t you agree?”
Anna hesitated, not wishing to disagree with Sylvia and spoil her fond reminiscence. For Anna, nothing about family meals, picnics or otherwise, evoked thoughts of lighthearted stories and little girls picking flowers. Meals with the Del Maso family involved lots of food and wine, boisterous laughter, and intense conversations that often flared into heated arguments, which turned into rounds of teasing when the anger was spent. Extra places were always set in anticipation of the neighbors, friends, and extended family who might show up unexpectedly to debate politics with her father or gossip about absent acquainta
nces with her mother. And Anna had loved it, even when she had to shout to make her opinions heard over her brothers’ deeper voices, even when the people she loved best in the world drove her crazy. Those happy hours spent around her family’s kitchen table were surely what had inspired her to become a chef. She only wished she could reproduce the spirit of those occasions as deftly as she had captured the flavors of her mother’s and grandmothers’ traditional recipes. From the look in Sylvia’s eyes, she knew Sylvia felt the same way about her own family’s traditions, even though the spirit of those two very different families were surely equally different.
“Lighthearted doesn’t describe my family or their stories very well,” Anna said. “Intense, yes. Passionate, definitely. Happy, of course. But there was never anything easygoing and relaxed about us, and I think we liked it that way.”
Anna imagined her parents and siblings and cousins and aunts and uncles gathered for a picnic on the veranda, just as the quilt campers had done throughout the last weeks of summer, Anna’s first as Elm Creek Manor’s chef. The campers had enjoyed fried chicken and sandwich wraps, tasty salads, fruit, and cupcakes for dessert. They had chatted pleasantly, laughed, and teased one another. As for the Del Maso family, no meal was complete without a huge bowl of pasta in the center of the table, and the decibel level would have soared high above whatever the quilters could have produced.
But she smiled, imagining both groups of picnickers meeting on the veranda. The quilters would surely wonder why the Del Masos were shouting and gesturing, giving every appearance of discord. Unless the quilters came from large Italian families themselves, they would probably be completely unaware that the Del Masos were thoroughly enjoying themselves, that every teasing retort was an expression of love.
“I don’t suppose any amount of bleach and hot water will make this tablecloth usable again,” Sylvia said with a small, regretful sigh. “Such a pity. Our campers love picnics on the veranda, and this tablecloth would have added such a lovely note of nostalgia. It would have made those occasions even more special for me.”
Anna knew exactly what she meant. A table adorned with familiar linens and china evoked family traditions just as familiar flavors did. If the gingham tablecloth could somehow be restored…“The fabric in the center looks salvageable,” she said, indicating a section free of water stains and mildew, where the red-and-white checks remained cheerful and bright. “If we washed it well, trimmed away the ruined parts, and hemmed the edges, it could work.”
Elm Creek Quilts [13] The Quilter's Kitchen Page 4
