Make eye contact with the dog as you discipline.
Never hit from above.
Remember to be dramatic.
Pay no attention to the dog for half an hour after disciplining.
* * *
Making Up After Discipline
Just as it is important to administer meaningful discipline quickly and firmly when your dog commits a big offense, it is also essential to "make up" later. This making-up process does not have to be emotionally wrenching or cathartic. After you discipline your dog for a serious offense, remain passive for at least half an hour, not speaking to the dog and avoiding eye contact. If you attempt to make eye contact with your dog at this time, chances are that your dog will avoid looking at you. Your dog wants to make contact with you, but in his own time. Your dog behaves after discipline very much as a wolf does. Your dog may look away, gaze down at the floor, or look as if he were trying to melt into the wall. This is a natural reaction of submission that should not be interfered with by the distraught owner. Unfortunately, when the dog displays these reactions after discipline, many owners go to the dog and coddle him, trying to "cheer him up." When they approach, they may find that the animal remains motionless or trembles. This makes the owner feel even more guilty.
The fact is, the animal simply needs a certain amount of time to readjust. Just leave the dog alone for half an hour. On the other hand, if the dog shows no signs of submission or deference after discipline, you should reexamine how firm you were in disciplining. If your dog comes up to you and nudges you for attention five minutes after you have disciplined him, chances are that the dog didn't get the point.
After half an hour, do something friendly with your dog. Take a walk or a car ride, give the dog his favorite toy, or speak to him softly and encouragingly. Avoid dramatic make-up gestures, like food treats or robust play sessions. Some dogs may need more building up than others; you have to size up your own dog. The important point is to be big enough to make up but not so guilt-ridden and overbearing that you fail to give the dog the readjusting time he naturally needs after an effective correction.
11
What's Cooking?
A sound mind in a sound body! Before we can go on to work on improving our pet's behavior, it is paramount that he be physically healthy. Really healthy, not just looking okay. Dogs can go on functioning well to all appearances when in fact they are in serious, poor condition. Later, just as with us, dogs, too, will begin to break down in their behavior, and many an owner will stand there concerned and baffled as to what has caused this change. The answer lies in the food dish.
In supplying our dog with a diet that maintains his condition at its best, we need a realistic view of the whole picture. Avoid taking economic shortcuts with generic dog food, as well as falling into sloppy feeding habits that can only hurt your dog in the final analysis. Feed the dog what he needs, not what you think he needs!
For most owners, a complete, nutritionally balanced dry kibble should be the basic dog food. It will contain correct proportions of protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Particularly important is the percentage of protein as well as its source, which the label delineates. Because dogs are carnivores, our preference is for kibble whose main source of protein is meat. Many dry foods are soybean-based, and although soy is a rich and inexpensive source of protein, it is not easily digested by canines because it encapsulates other nutrients, thereby preventing them from being absorbed. Dog food companies are required by law to list the primary ingredient first, so check the label for meat. Many of the better brands are made from meat meal of chicken, beef, or lamb (and then secondarily grains) and may be available only through special distributors. These sophisticated feeds, though sometimes more costly, may be worth looking into since the companies that make them maintain research farms where nutritional experiments are conducted, giving greater confidence to their products. Also, higher protein content may mean less food (evening things out somewhat economically), resulting in smaller stool size. On the label, look for the seal of the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), which guarantees content and proportion. Any kibble you feed a young adult of moderate activity should contain at least 22 percent protein, preferably more. Active dogs need higher levels of protein. Older dogs may need kibble with less protein content. Dogs who are overweight may require special feeds that are low in calories and high in fiber. As a general rule, watch for signs that may indicate your dog is not getting the diet he needs: excessively loose or large stools that smell particularly bad, bad breath, flatulence, low energy level, dull, smelly coat, and perpetual shedding.
Canine nutrition is a subject of much discussion, but overall we have had success with the finer kibbles and supplements. The reputable feed producer has usually included proper dosages of vitamins and other necessary ingredients in the kibble, but vitamins can often be lost in the manufacturing process through the heat involved in baking kibble, suggesting the need for some sort of supplementation. We supplement kibble with some eggs, cottage cheese, or a tablespoon of canned meat, plus some sort of commercial supplement that provides enzymes, beneficial bacteria, and vitamins (such as Ultimate Supplement).
Meat should not constitute more than 25 percent of the dog's diet. The American tendency is to go overboard on meat. Raw meat, frozen meat, tripe, canned meat, or table scraps — none should exceed more than one cup at each meal. Otherwise, you throw minerals out of balance.
Unrestricted feeding, the practice of letting the dog determine how much she eats and at what times, is problematic. Aside from the fact that such a feeding practice can lead to house-training difficulties, picky eating habits, and obesity, it also doesn't make sense from a behavioral point of view. By allowing your dog to feed herself, you take away the emotional bonding that arises from feeding your dog, which is an intimate daily contact that we believe is important. Instead, feed your dog at the same time every day. Two smaller meals are healthier than one large meal. A smaller portion is usually more easily digested. The risk of torsion (stomach bloat) in many breeds is serious and often fatal, and smaller portions help avoid this problem. Two feedings help prevent hunger tension, which can be a factor in problem behavior such as chewing, and can help cut down begging behavior between meals.
Puppies from the time of weaning to four months of age require three meals a day. The pup is growing in leaps and bounds, and his stomach cannot take an overload of food all at once. The feeding times need to be adhered to strictly and basically should be in the morning, at noon, and in the early evening. The evening repast should be no later than five or six o'clock, to give the puppy time to eliminate before retiring. Puppies generally need twice the number of calories and general nourishment of older dogs. Our experience is that they benefit from daily supplements of live-cultured yogurt (with acidophilus) or acidophilus powder, which helps restore intestinal flora; enzymatic supplements; and additional protein supplements of meat. A hard-boiled egg could be given several times a week in place of the meat.
A supply of fresh water is a must. Though a dog could go a number of days without food, without fresh water he would soon grow dehydrated and face serious health problems. The body weight of an adult dog is 50 to 60 percent water, more for a puppy. Every adult dog should have access to cool, clean water at frequent intervals, but keep water off-limits to dogs for at least thirty minutes before and after exercising. Puppies tend to gulp too much water and should be offered water periodically, rather than have free access to it. This is especially true during house training. If a pup or older dog spends time outdoors in the sun, he should have all the water he needs. Make sure that you clean the water dish or pail daily, as water left standing overnight can harbor bacteria. Water should not be allowed at night, especially if you are house-training a young puppy.
Never, ever refuse to feed your dog as a punishment. Behavior and health are related, but not to the degree that withholding food accomplishes any good in behavior. A dog has
no consciousness whatever of the connection you intend by withholding food. All you invite is health problems. The feeding time should be marked by affection and praise. Since the dog's need for health is paramount, good or bad behavior should not have anything to do with regular meals. This may seem like simple common sense, but we have talked with some dog owners who try to prod their pets into good behavior by cutting off their basic rations.
Treats
Treats fall into two categories. First, many people use food treats to reinforce behavior learned in the context of obedience training. This practice is fine as long as your dog does not become overly dependent on them (he won't comply without the prospect of a treat) or the food interferes with his ordinary feeding. We've seen trainers use pieces of hot dog or liver as rewards to the point where dogs have had the equivalent of a full meal over the course of a training session. Food treats do not represent a balanced diet and should not be used as a substitute for a meal. They are best used intermittently in training along with verbal and physical praise to reinforce and spur learning.
An occasional natural dog biscuit is entirely appropriate, serving both to clean the dog's teeth of tartar and to cement your relationship. You can also substitute a few pieces of washed, raw vegetables such as carrot sticks or green beans, which are not fattening and which dogs love to crunch. Stay away from soft, cookielike treats that contain chemicals and added sugars and food coloring. It's a good idea to ask the dog to sit before giving a treat. This takes only a second and helps the dog solidify the command. We strongly advise against treats at the dinner table; however, do not banish your dog from the room when eating. Teach the dog the down and down-stay first so he can be included in the experience. During meals your pet should lie off to the side or somewhere visible in the dining room. Keep the dog out from under the table and never let the pet sit at the table. It is not a "torture" for the dog to watch his owners eat — it is a pleasure to be present. If necessary, feed your dog first, before your dinner. A treat after dinner for a successful down-stay is fine, but whenever you treat the dog, indicate clearly when treat time is over. Tell the pet kindly but firmly that there is no more and to take his place.
Dogs, like people, can be fussy eaters. This can be frustrating since you are naturally concerned about the causes and implications of such fussiness. Don't lose your temper. Anger and pleading do not solve anything. The best approach is simply to set the dish before your dog for a few minutes and leave the dog alone. If there is no reaction, pick up the food and reoffer it later, at the next scheduled meal. Do not try to coax the dog to eat. Better to let the dog skip a few meals than to teach him to hold out for caviar. Normal, healthy dogs do not starve themselves, and it is better to get them to eat according to what you know to be best, at set times. In extreme cases, such as during illness or after anesthesia, hand feeding might work if you must get a few mouthfuls into your pet. But don't do so any longer than necessary, or your pet will come to rely on it. Always pay attention to your dog's basic demeanor when he doesn't eat, and try to notice whether something might be wrong with his health. Otherwise, a change in the weather or the addition of meat or a tablespoon of cat food (higher in protein than canned dog food) might perk up his appetite. If lackluster appetite persists and is not characteristic of your dog, see your vet.
How much food should your dog get? Begin by taking a good look at your friend. Is your dog lean or too fat? Don't rely completely on the statistics on the back of dog-food packages to gauge how much your pet should be eating. These set tables do not take into account the peculiar traits of many dogs, their high or low energy levels, the amount of exercise they receive, or their ability to metabolize certain types of food and should be taken as general guidelines. To determine whether your dog is too heavy, straddle your dog and put both hands over her ribcage. Prominent ribs indicate that your dog is underweight, whereas if they are difficult to feel, your dog may be too heavy. Try to keep your dog on the lean side. Extra weight means extra stress for the dog, who has to haul around those pounds. In pups, leanness and a pronounced stomach could mean worms, so it is wise to have a stool sample analyzed at your vet every three months until the dog is one year old, and every six months after that. Until you are comfortable with your dog's rations, evaluate him every two weeks to make sure he's not being over- or underfed. More books on canine nutrition are recommended in the reading list.
Though sometimes there are genetic or medical reasons for obesity, the most common one is the same as for humans: overweight dogs usually suffer from too much food and too little exercise. Dr. Nicholas Dodman reports that more than 25 percent of the dogs in the United States are overweight, some of whom are obese (a body weight more than 25 percent above the ideal body weight).*Concern for our dogs' health and longevity demands that we look critically and seriously at our own role in canine obesity. In addition to traditional reasons such as the kids giving them food they don't want or your neighbors slipping them treats, our experience has been that many owners overfeed their dogs because of unconscious projections. Overfeeding is often a misguided attempt at compensating for something we perceive is lacking in the relationship (time, for example), an unhelpful way of making us feel as though we are really taking care of the dog. Overfeeding does your dog no favors: dogs who are fat die younger and have many more health problems. More exercise and less food means a healthier dog (and most likely a healthier you). In large breeds for which hip dysplasia is a frequent problem, too much weight can cause suffering and can further the progression of their dysplastic condition. Lastly, don't let the common myth that a neutered dog will gain weight deter you from altering one you don't intend to breed. Spaying a female or neutering a male should not increase the animal's weight, if the diet is properly controlled.
Commercial feeds may not do enough to help your dog's coat stay in top condition. Fats are required in the diet for good coat sheen. We have had good luck adding safflower oil or flaxseed oil to the food of dogs with dry coats (one teaspoon per meal), since these are the best source for linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, and are the least allergenic of the common cooking oils.
Coprophagia, or stool eating, while repugnant to humans, is not uncommon in dogs and may indicate a problem related to digestion and absorption of food, dietary deficiency, overfeeding, or may simply be an obnoxious bad habit. For example, a dog being fed a rich diet once a day may produce stools with a high degree of undigested protein, causing the dog to snack later on. Because of the multiple possibilities, it is best to have a dog displaying this behavior examined by a veterinarian to make sure it is nothing serious. To deal with this problem, you need to supervise the dog's defecation times, and immediately after the dog has finished eliminating, call him in. Pick up after your dog immediately without your dog watching, especially if his area is enclosed. Make sure the dog is fed twice a day and that his stools are solid. Dogs who are confined to exercise pens and are unsupervised may be reacting to boredom or a lack of playthings. Enrich the environment with toys and other objects of interest to keep his mind active. Also, a number of folk remedies can sometimes help. Try sprinkling his food with Ac'cent. This addition seems to make the stool unattractive and may make up for the missing enzyme. Concoctions of Tabasco sauce and vinegar on the stools to deter your dog from munching have also been known to help.
Problem Behavior and Nutrition
If you are experiencing behavioral problems with your dog, dietary changes might be beneficial. Contrary to long-standing assumptions of many trainers and veterinarians that low-protein diets can improve the behavior of aggressive and high-strung dogs, William E. Campbell has found just the opposite, provided that carbohydrates are reduced, too. In his nutritional studies involving problem dogs, he found that the general approach of feeding more protein and lowering carbohydrate intake has been effective in two ways.*First, conditioning to commands and signals seems to be better retained. Second, dogs appear less hyperactive and less disturbed by external st
imuli, such as passing cars, other dogs barking, and loud noises. He suggests the supplement of a "high quality multi-vitamin/mineral/amino acid/ enzyme product" such as we recommend above, coupled with 100–500 mg of niacinamide to take care of any possible thiamin or niacin deficiencies that may be connected with poorly conditioned reflex formation and hyperactivity. He wisely calls such supplementation good "behavioral insurance." Our work with problem dogs bears out these findings. Vitamin/mineral/enzyme supplements make a difference with our dogs. Clients who use vitamins as a family and follow healthy eating habits themselves readily grasp this rationale; families with poor nutritional habits often feed their dogs poorly, too.
In cases of problem behavior, in addition to remedial training, we usually suggest suspending any "junk" foods that contain red dyes or high amounts of sugar. We suggest two feedings a day to prevent hunger tension. Finally, we teach clients how to decipher dog-food labels and the advertising psychology used by pet-food companies.
When you consult a veterinarian about nutritional problems or ask for advice, make sure you have written down exactly what you have fed your dog recently, no matter what it is. Don't expect a vet to provide you with helpful information unless he or she knows what you have been feeding your dog previously, what you can afford, and a basic health history of your dog.
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Grooming Your Dog
Some years ago we had a client who boarded her Newfoundland in our kennel whenever she traveled. She would plead with us also to groom the dog during his stay. We offered this service at the time, so we agreed, yet we can still recall how laborious and unpleasant a task it was. The dog was not used to being touched, his hair was tangled and matted, and he was always very smelly and dirty. After a few such sessions, we asked the woman why she didn't groom the dog regularly herself, since it would make her dog more pleasant to live with. She replied, "Oh heavens, no! Curly is just so big and unmanageable. I just can't handle him. If I try to groom him, he just whines and backs away. And his nails! Even our veterinarian has to anesthetize him to clip them. Curly just won't tolerate it otherwise."
How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend Page 9
