118 “ ‘Only use this outside’ ” Mountaineers have to settle for an open tent flap.
118 “eating priests” Correspondence with Yan Giezendanner, December 2009.
119 Dutch weather god Ab Maas of the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute was the first to report the weather window to the mountaineers at Base Camp. His prediction was ten days in advance of the window.
121 four camps Camp 1 is usually at 6,200 meters; Camp 2 is at 6,700 meters; Camp 3 is at 7,300 meters; Camp 4 (the Shoulder) is a large site where tents can be pitched at heights between 7,700 and 7,900 meters.
121 about 19,000 feet Wilco’s Camp 1 on the Cesen route was at 5,800 meters.
121 20,300 feet Wilco’s Camp 2 on the Cesen was at 6,200 meters.
121 about 23,500 feet Wilco’s Camp 3 on the Cesen was at 7,150 meters.
122 Muhammad Hussein He was also known as “Little Hussein.”
122 Muhammad Khan He is also listed as Muhammad Sanap Akam on summit records.
122 rope, ice screws, and pickets The rope supply consisted of 400 meters from the Dutch team and 200 meters from the Italian team.
8: GHOST WINDS
The rescue of Shaheen is based on interviews with Shaheen and Nadir. Yan’s discussions with Hugues are from Yan’s recollection, and all of Hugues’s quotes are also from Yan’s recollection. Wilco’s discussions with Maarten are from both men’s recollections. Hoselito’s discussion with Wilco about the tent is based on interviews with both men and corroborated by Pemba. All quotes in the conversation between Hoselito and Wilco are from our interviews with the men who said them and as reviewed by Wilco and Hoselito.
127 “K2: A Little Shorter/A Lot Harder” Mike Farris of the American K2 International Expedition created this motto.
9: THROUGH THE BOTTLENECK
The scenic descriptions of the mountain are based on interviews with the climbers, their photographs, and video footage. The descriptions of the conflicts in the lead team are from interviews with all surviving members. The descriptions of the traffic jam in the Bottleneck come from about a dozen of the mountaineers who were there, plus several photos. We based the description of Cecilie’s encounter with Dren Mandic on her memoir and interviews with her. Cecilie’s account was corroborated by Chhiring, Pasang, and Lars. The descriptions of the attempted recovery of Dren’s body come from interviews with Fredrik, Muhammad Hussein, Iso, and Pedja, plus footage from Fredrik’s documentary K2: A Cry from the Top of the World. The description of Jehan’s slide down the mountain is based primarily on the versions told by Muhammad Hussein and Iso, who had unobstructed views. Dr. Fred Espenak of NASA’s Goddard Space Flight Center provided information about the eclipse above K2. Pasang’s encounter with Alberto comes from interviews with both men. The scene on the summit is from interviews with the people described and from photographs. The detail about Kim and Jumik playfully smoking a cigarette is from Pasang.
143 “the essentials” The Italians still had a second coil of 100 meters, and the Dutch team had brought 400 meters of rope. This would have been enough if the fixed lines had been set in the appropriate locations.
143 $385 This is based on 2008 prices. Zuckerman examined and tried on some of the oxygen cylinders that Pasang used, and Pasang demonstrated how he prepared them.
143 turn up the flow The maximum is four liters a minute.
144 Sure, Eric replied This conversation is based on Chhiring’s recollection. (Eric had only a vague recollection of their exchange, which is why his words aren’t in quotation marks here.)
144 “He won’t be coming” Paolo Padoan interviewed Alberto in Vitoria-Gasteiz, Spain, in 2009.
145 Muhammad Hussein Zuckerman interviewed Muhammad in his village of Machulu in 2009.
145 procedure on Everest On Everest, an army of sherpas fixes lines systematically, and every team contributes with supplies, porters, or payment. The Bhotes tried to deliver extensive fixed lines on K2, but, given the time frame of the project—a few hours’ lead time before the main group—this was unrealistic.
149 “being a gentleman” Hoselito, who didn’t see the fall, bases this theory on Dren’s personality.
154 a perfect corona A total eclipse of the sun was visible in areas of China, far to the north of Shimshal.
155 years preparing Wilco also remembered the summit time of the 1995 K2 expedition in which he took part. The team reached the summit at 6 p.m. and descended safely to Camp 4 by midnight.
159 “at the beach!” This was the August 4 entry on Hugues d’Aubarède’s memorial blog by his girlfriend, Mine Dumas.
10: ESCAPE FROM THE SUMMIT
The encounter with Mr. Kim is from Pasang’s recollection, as are most of Pasang’s encounters with Kim, who declined to be interviewed. To understand Kim’s perspective, the authors reviewed transcripts of Kim’s interviews with Fredrik Sträng, who filmed him throughout the climb for the documentary K2: A Cry from the Top of the World. We also reviewed transcripts from Kim’s interviews with Ryu Dong-il on behalf of author Freddie Wilkinson for his book One Mountain Thousand Summits. Several climbers described the rope system, including Chhiring and Pasang. Cas van de Gevel described the death of Hugues. The sounds are based on climbers’ descriptions. For Jumik’s fall, we do not know the precise time this serac calved, but it was a separate serac fall from the one that killed Rolf at 9 p.m. The descriptions of Rolf’s death come from interviews with Cecilie and Lars, as well as from Cecilie’s memoir, translated from Norwegian by Erik Brakstad, and their video footage, translated by Ragnhild Amble and Oddvar and Anne Hoidal.
164 stumbling and falling Between 1953 and 2008, twenty-four of the sixty-six deaths on K2 occurred during descent from the summit.
166 “You go first” This quote is according to Cas’s recollection.
167 two Koreans with Jumik Neither Marco nor Wilco could positively identify the two Korean climbers tied to Jumik.
169 “Where’s Rolf?” This quote is what Cecilie remembers saying; the quote after it is how Lars remembers responding.
169 “stars and loneliness” See Cecilie Skog, Til Rolf: Tusen fine turer og en trist (Oslo: Gyldendal Norsk Forlag AS, 2009). Excerpts translated by Erik Brakstad.
170 streaked down The next morning, Jumik was found hanging about 70 vertical meters (230 feet) below the Snow Dome.
172 all available rope Lars carried 50 meters of rope for emergencies. After the serac fall, this coil would be the key to survival for those trapped above the Bottleneck.
172 The visitation This is based on interviews with Chhiring.
173 “No axe” The quotes from exchanges with Pasang and Chhiring are from interviews with both men.
11: SONAM
Pasang’s encounter with the specter of Mr. Kim is based on interviews with Pasang. The description of the bivouac is from interviews with Marco and Wilco; from Marco’s memoir, Giorni di Ghiaccio (Days of Ice, 2009); and from Wilco’s memoir, Surviving K2 (2010). The specific lyrics that Ger substituted during the singing served as his climbing mantra. They were written by the Irish band Kila. Dr. Michael Su provided details about what would have happened when Karim became hypothermic. Eric provided information about what drugs were given to Pemba. Go Mi-sun died on Nanga Parbat in July 2009, three weeks before our scheduled interview with her. We did, however, obtain copies of e-mails she sent about the K2 climb, and we talked to other climbers about what she told them had happened.
180 when Pasang closed his eyes Pasang originally arrived at Camp 4 around noon on July 31, and it was now roughly 6 a.m. on August 2.
180 “useless weight” There are some celebrated exceptions. Dan Mazur and Jonathan Pratt survived a bivouac on K2 at 28,000 feet and kept their fingers and toes, thanks in part to a lightweight stove.
180 minus four degrees Fahrenheit This figure (equivalent to -20°C) is Marco’s estimate.
183 skid mark This photo was taken from Camp 4 by Pemba at 7:16 p.m.
183 “Is it bad?” This exch
ange (and the one between Pemba and Eric) is from Chhiring’s recollection but corroborated by Pemba and Eric.
12: SURVIVAL
The accounts involving Tsering, Big Pasang, and Go are from interviews with Tsering. Padoan and Zuckerman both interviewed Tsering on separate occasions in Kathmandu in 2009. Zuckerman did a followup interview with him in Grindelwald, Switzerland, in 2010. Tsering’s conversation with Kim is told from Tsering’s perspective but corroborated by Pemba, Eric, and Chhiring. Wilco’s assertion that Jumik said help was coming is corroborated by the conversation between Lars and Go in Base Camp. The details of Wilco’s descent are from interviews with him and from his memoir.
185 Tsering Tsering Lama was more commonly known as Chhiring Lama, reflecting the Nepali pronunciation of his Tibetan name. We refer to him by his Tibetan name to avoid confusion. He also sometimes goes by Chhiring Bhote in other books and articles.
189 corneas began to freeze Even a slight breeze at this altitude can begin to freeze the corneas when a wind shield (such as goggles) is removed. Vision gradually becomes cloudy, and it takes at least six hours to recover sight. To avoid this, high-altitude mountaineers keep their eyes closed for five to ten seconds at a time and roll their eyeballs around on every third or fourth breath.
189 After about 200 feet Wilco estimates that Jumik and his two Korean clients were hanging 50 to 70 vertical meters (164 to 230 feet) below his bivouac site.
190 twisting and cinching This is what Wilco and others later figured must have happened.
190 help was on the way When Ms. Go left Jumik the night before, she promised to send help, according to Lars, who spoke with Go at Base Camp on August 4 or 5.
190 “I had to survive, too” This quote is from a 2009 interview with Wilco at his home in Voorst, Holland.
190 Wilco was lost See Wilco van Rooijen, Surviving K2 (2010), p. 127.
190 three limbs Or two limbs and an ice axe, maintaining three points of contact.
191 familiar combination The number was also on speed dial, but the phone’s memory failed. Wilco had to dial by “feel.”
191 “I’m alive” Wilco’s conversations with Heleen are from his recollection.
13: BURIED IN THE SKY
The descriptions of the entangled men are from interviews with Marco and Wilco and from photographs taken by Pemba and Lars. The description of Big Pasang’s radio calls comes from interviews with Pemba. The description of the avalanche assumes a dry-slab avalanche because that is consistent with the conditions described by Tsering and what photos suggest. Several books provided details of what happens and what to do during an avalanche. The Avalanche Handbook, by David McClung and Peter Schaerer (Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006), was an especially good source. Dr. Michael Su provided many of the details about asphyxiation and dying. The interaction between Tsering and Pasang is based primarily on interviews with Tsering but supplemented by interviews with Pasang and with Jumik’s mother, Gamu.
193 Around 8 a.m. A photo by Lars, taken from Camp 4 at 8:06 a.m., shows Marco and Ger first encountering the tangle of men and Wilco descending below them.
194 after 9:58 a.m. Pemba’s 9:58 a.m. photo taken from Camp 4 shows Marco leaning over Jumik’s head as Ger kneels beside him.
194 “nice of him, but weird” Marco doesn’t recall giving any chocolate to Tsering and Big Pasang.
194 an avalanche roar Marco does not believe what he experienced was a hallucination. During a 2010 interview with documentary filmmaker Nick Ryan, Marco acknowledged that the body could have been anyone wearing yellow La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo boots and a red downsuit. Ger and Karim both wore that gear.
195 taken at 9:58 a.m. This photo was taken by Pemba from Camp 4.
195 Jumik is gone Pemba took this photo at 7:16 p.m. from Camp 4.
195 photo from 3:10 p.m. Pemba photographed the corpses of Jumik and Big Pasang at 3:10 p.m. from a few feet away.
195 rescued himself This is the assessment of Wilco and Marco, the last surviving witnesses to see Jumik alive.
196 sledding down Or Ger may have used a simpler system. He might have rigged up a second rope that he had attached to the two living climbers and then cut the first rope.
197 two eyewitnesses They were Big Pasang and Tsering, as described later in this chapter.
197 “dead man walking” See Beck Weathers with Stephen G. Michaud, Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest (New York: Villard Books, 2000), p. 7.
198 four men Big Pasang and Tsering counted four men, and Big Pasang reported this over the radio.
198 reported on the radio Pemba received this radio call while he was trying to revive Marco.
198 thunderous boom Tsering heard it.
202 death What’s considered the moment of “death” varies among doctors, cultures, and jurisdictions. We define it here as the moment when breathing and circulation stopped.
203 “lose my family” This quote is from an interview with Tsering and corroborated by Pasang.
14: THE FEARLESS FIVE
The description of Marco’s rescue is from interviews with Pemba and Marco, supplemented by Marco’s memoir. The descriptions of Wilco’s descent are based on interviews with Wilco, Cas, Pemba, Nadir, Tom, Maarten, Hoselito, Chhiring, and Chris. The description of Pasang’s return to Base Camp is from interviews with Pasang and Ngawang Bhote. The field hospital description is based on photographs and on interviews with Eric and Chhiring. We also discussed the treatment with Wilco and Marco. The scene at the Gilkey Memorial is from interviews with Nadir, supplemented by photos of the memorial and interviews with Hoselito, who was nearby. The authors visited the Fearless Five at the military base in April 2009, including the mess hall and barracks. The landing at Base Camp and Marco’s airlift were videotaped by the military. We reviewed this footage and interviewed the pilots involved in the rescues. Shaheen’s return comes from interviews with him. Zuckerman and Padoan visited the hospital rooms used by Marco and Wilco and interviewed the medical personnel who treated them. We also relied on information broadcast by media outlets. Details about personal responses to the disaster stem primarily from news reports but also from interviews with Dawa Sherpa and Jumik’s friends with Internet access, Judy Aull and Jerry del Missier.
205 might dig up And they did. See Cristina Marrone, “Confortola scalerà da solo «È un campione ma antipatico»,” Corriere della Sera, February 7, 2010.
205 “like a lioness” See Marco Confortola, Giorni di Ghiaccio (Milan: Baldini Castoldi Dalai Editore, 2009), p. 128.
206 afternoon of August 2 All times refer to the local time on K2. Utrecht, Holland, was four hours behind K2. Denver, Colorado, was eleven hours behind K2.
207 Maarten Padoan interviewed Maarten van Eck in Utrecht, Holland, in October 2009.
208 the orange dot Zuckerman interviewed Chris by telephone. Chris was credited in the media as the first person to spot Wilco, but he does not dispute Nadir’s earlier sighting.
208 near Camp 3 Strictly speaking, Wilco was not rescued. He had located Camp 3 on the Cesen route and was approaching it on his own. Cas climbed toward Wilco, meeting him about 100 meters from camp, while Pemba remained in Camp 3, standing in front of his tent.
209 “a stranger to them” Ngawang Bhote interview in Kathmandu (2010) with Snighda Dhungel, Padoan’s translator.
210 $60,000 This is based on Eric Meyer’s recollection of his discussion with English-speaking members of the Flying Jump as they arranged their evacuation from Base Camp. The average cost for an airlift is $6,000 per person, and approximately ten members flew out, so this estimate is reasonable. Askari Aviation told the authors that the Flying Jump’s airlift cost a total of $13,000, but mountaineers said these figures were inaccurate.
211 Siachen The name of this wasteland means “place of many roses” in Balti.
212 Ecureuil B3 Mystery Didier Delsalle landed an Ecureuil/AStar AS 350 B3 on the summit of Everest on May 14, 2005, for two minutes.
212 Rinjing
Sherpa In addition to carrying Marco to the chopper, Rinjing, along with his brother-in-law, George Dijmarescu, and Mingma Sherpa, intercepted Marco above Camp 2 and helped him descend to Base Camp.
15: THE NEXT LIFE
For the description of the tea party, Zuckerman visited the room where the meeting took place and spoke to members of the Ministry of Tourism about it. The quotes are from interviews with Nazir and Wilco. The meeting between Lahmu and Mr. Kim is from interviews with Lahmu and a visit to the hotel where the discussion took place. The description of Nick Rice’s return is from interviews with him and his sister, Rebecca Rice, and video footage. For the scenes with Nazir Sabir, we joined him on his drive to Shimshal and attended the meeting with the families of Karim and Jehan. The quotes come from followup interviews with those who spoke; it would have been insensitive to have our interpreter translating during a memorial service. The quotes of Jehan’s children were reported by their grandmother, Nazib. Chhiring’s return home is based on interviews with him, Dawa, and Ngawang. Pasang’s return is based on interviews with Pasang, Pemba Jeba, Tsering, Dawa Sangmu, Lahmu, and Gamu. The descriptions of the doubleheader climbs are from interviews with Chhiring and Pasang.
218 Jehan Baig’s policy Alpha Insurance eventually compensated Jehan’s family.
218 “the right kind of climbers” This quote is from interviews after the tea party when Wilco, Nazir, and others recalled what they were saying and thinking at the time. Unfortunately, the party was not taped by the ministry, and Geo TV and Dawn TV had lost their tapes of the meeting.
222 unsupported, unassisted Cecilie, with American Ryan Waters, crossed Antarctica using strictly their own muscle power. For previous crossings of Antarctica, skiers had used wind for propulsion.
223 “Pemba Girgi” Marco Confortola, Giorni di Ghiaccio (Milan: Baldini Castoldi Dalai Editore, 2009), p. 102.
223 Jumik Bhote’s mother This visit was in April 2010. Padoan and Joëlle Brupbacher were present with translator Snighda Dhungel.
223 National Geographic Adventure See “The Savior and the Storm on K2,” National Geographic Adventure (December 2008/January 2009).
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