Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day

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Buried in the Sky: The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2's Deadliest Day Page 29

by Zuckerman, Peter


  propane, 180

  prosperity, 16, 23

  Prusik hitch, 196

  psychostimulants, 184

  public-relations value, 160

  puja ceremonies, 104, 105, 115

  pulmonary edema, 117, 133, 163, 211

  Qaiser, Shahzad, 217–18

  quartz rock, 105, 127

  Quechua, 65

  Qur’an, Quranic law, 87, 99, 110, 226

  radio, 40, 132–35, 151, 187, 188

  Big Pasang’s use of, 197, 198, 255n

  garbled information and, 123, 185

  lead team and, 122, 123, 146

  Marco’s use of, 193

  Nadir’s use of, 135, 139

  Shaheen’s use of, 132, 133, 134

  Raghunath Aryal, 52

  Rana, Devyani, 49, 242n

  Rana, Gorakh, 50, 243n

  rappelling, 2, 3, 139, 152, 168–71, 173

  Ratna, Queen Mother of Nepal, 243n

  Rawalpindi, 107–23

  Raza, Muhammad, 225, 249n

  Raza, Syed Amir, 100

  Red Army, Chinese, 76

  red blood-cell count, 65, 116–17, 244n

  refugees:

  Buddhists, 14, 22

  in civil war, 53, 54, 58, 60, 243n

  partition of India and, 36

  in Rolwaling Valley, 14, 16

  Sherpa as, 66

  Regency Hotel, 216

  Reichert, Joe, 109

  Reichssportführer, 19

  reincarnation, 174

  relief organizations, 55

  religious experience, 201

  religious persecution, 36

  REM sleep, 201

  rescues, rescue system:

  Ger’s rigging of, 196, 255n

  as slow-paced, 195

  see also specific people

  rest steps, 130

  rice, 100, 104, 155

  Rice, Nick, 96, 99, 111, 115, 126, 136, 146

  in Los Angeles, 222

  rinderpest disease, 71

  rings, 125, 126

  Rinpoche, Guru, 14–16, 237n

  roads, 86

  Karakorum Highway, 78, 94, 95, 214

  rock salt, 86, 124

  rock slides, 95, 113, 125

  Rolwaling Excursions, 26, 27

  Rolwaling River, 10, 13, 15

  longevity and, 16

  Rolwaling Valley, 11–27, 68, 230, 245n

  apocalyptic legend of, 15

  as beyul, 14, 16, 237n

  Chhiring as monastery patron in, 27

  founding myth of, 15–16

  Hillary’s trek in, 17

  on maps, 10

  mortality rate in, 238n

  population in, 16

  village rotation in, 13–14

  war against demons in, 14–15

  written history of, 14

  Rongbuk Monastery, 67

  Roosevelt, Theodore, 6

  rope, rope lines, 112, 122, 128–29, 131, 132, 135, 148, 155, 198, 250n, 251n

  anchor point of, 196

  in Bottleneck, 78, 132, 148, 149–50, 151

  Dren’s body and, 152, 153

  emergency, 172, 252n

  Endura, 148, 190, 250n

  on Everest, 251n

  Figure-8-on-a-bight and, 164, 165, 170, 171

  fixed lines, 145, 162, 164, 165, 170–73, 180, 181, 186, 188, 189, 190, 195, 251n

  Ger’s rigging of rescue system with, 196, 255n

  Jumik and Koreans tangled in, 162, 167–68, 189–90, 195, 252n, 254n

  left behind, 143

  in Nadir’s descent with Shaheen, 139–40

  Pasang and Jumik’s creation of descent system of, 162, 164–65

  severed by avalanche, 162, 190

  shortage of, 145–46, 147, 148

  in Shoulder, 144, 145–46

  on Traverse, 164, 165, 170, 180

  rosary, 125–26

  Roskelley, John, 20, 238n

  Royal Geographical Society, 28

  Royal Nepalese Army, 58

  Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute, 138, 250n

  Russia, Czarist, 81, 83

  Ruttledge, Hugh, 71

  Ryan, Nick, 254n

  Sabir, Nazir, 85–86, 108, 146, 225–27, 257n

  at tea party, 218, 219, 257n

  Sacherer, Janice, 14, 237n, 238n

  Safdar Ali, Mir, 82–84, 247n–48n

  safety, 121

  of descents, 2, 155

  expedition-style climbing and, 129

  ignorance about, 130–31

  of mountain camps, 101, 131

  safety harness, 190

  salat, 97, 115

  Saleem, Kamal, 107

  Salisbury, Richard, 240n

  salt, 71, 86, 124

  Sar, 72

  sardines, 133

  satellite phones, 97, 125, 160, 216

  of Chhiring, 104, 105

  of Hugues, 5, 119, 137, 159

  of Marco, 181

  in Shimshal, 87, 214

  of Wilco, 126, 138, 191–92, 206–7, 254n

  satellites, GPS, 206

  Savoia Glacier, 33, 102

  Schoening, Pete, 37

  Schomberg, R. C. F., 247n–48n

  screaming, 150, 151, 154

  September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, 109

  seracs, 121, 149, 150, 155, 173

  defined, 146

  emergency rope and, 252n

  fall of, 167, 168, 169, 174, 177–78, 190, 196, 217

  Karim on, 164, 165, 182–83

  on maps, 147, 162

  Serbia, 152

  Serbian K2 Expedition, 86, 90, 107–9, 114, 119, 144

  on Askole departure, 97

  Mandic’s fall and death and, 147, 149–55, 251n

  porters for, 100, 109, 122

  Shaheen’s illness and rescue and, 120, 131–36, 138–40, 144–45, 207, 213, 218

  see also K2, 2008 disaster on

  Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band (album), 31

  Shah dynasty, 48–53, 74

  legend about, 51–52

  murder of, 48–52, 58, 242n, 243n

  Shahi, Rajiv Raj, 243n

  Shams, 80

  Shangri-la, 84, 182

  Shar Khombo, 66

  Sharp, David, 43, 241n

  sharpa (people from the east), 66, 68

  shaving, 87

  Sher, 80–81

  Sherpa, 17, 64–76, 218, 246n

  adaptation to oxygen deprivation by, 64–65

  amateur climbers and, 42

  animal slaughter and, 245n

  anthropological studies of, 14

  Bhote compared with, 57, 68–70, 106

  clans of, 66–70, 103, 244n, 245n

  cremation and, 103

  defining of, 68

  as ethnicity, 13, 64–70, 75–76, 237n, 245n

  on Everest, 23–25, 43, 105

  fame of, 70, 75–76

  foreigner description of, 70

  K2 and, 43, 98, 103–4, 106, 147, 171, 257n

  killed on German expedition to Nanga Parbat, 19, 238n

  naming system of, 66–68, 245n

  origins of, 66

  quartz rock scuffle and, 105

  stereotype of, 64

  Tenzing’s Everest climb and, 75–76

  village rotation of, 13–14

  Wiessner and, 33–36

  Wolfe rescue attempt of, 35

  see also specific people

  sherpa (job description), 45, 63, 68, 144–45, 210, 227

  bonus for, 160

  use of term, 13, 64, 70, 237n, 241n

  Sherpa, Ang Lhamu, 73

  Sherpa, Ang Tenzing Sherpa, 19

  Sherpa, Chhiring Dorje, 10, 11–14, 17–27, 55, 223–25, 227–30

  ambition of, 12, 25, 43

  appearance of, 43, 44

  becomes head of household, 18–19

  Buddhist lama of, 2, 26, 27, 104, 124, 172

  at Camp 4, 144, 183–84

  cheerful determination of, 11

&
nbsp; childhood of, 12, 17–18

  clan of, 68

  in Colorado, 45–47

  deaths experienced by, 17–18

  on definition of Sherpa, 68

  Everest accident of, 24

  Everest climbed by, 2, 23–26, 42, 44, 45

  Gilkey Memorial as viewed by, 102–3

  gravest transgression of, 17

  as interpreter, 23

  K2 Base Camp and, 102–6, 112–14, 124–25, 129, 210

  at K2 summit, 159, 160

  Kathmandu home of, 27, 220, 227–28

  on Lhotse, 229–30

  Makalu and, 228–29

  marriage of, 27

  name of, 11, 67

  offerings made by, 104, 124, 155

  Pasang rescued by, 162, 173–78, 223, 257n

  people dependent on, 2, 12, 23, 25, 27

  portering considered by, 19, 20

  portering jobs of, 22–26

  provisions of, 124–25

  in return to Kathmandu, 219–20

  sherpa used by, 45, 241n

  on solar eclipse, 154

  speed of, 11, 44

  strength of, 44

  in U.S. K2 expedition, 1–7, 45–47, 102–6, 112–14, 120, 122, 144, 148–51, 155, 162, 187

  visions of, 172

  wages and income of, 22–25

  Sherpa, Dawa Phuti (Tenzing’s wife), 71, 72–73

  Sherpa, Hrita, 17

  Sherpa, Jamling Tenzing Norgay, 73, 75

  Sherpa, Mingma, 256n

  Sherpa, Ngawang (Chhiring’s brother), 12, 25, 172, 220, 227

  Sherpa, Ngawang Oser, 24, 104, 124, 172, 238n

  Sherpa, Ngawang Thundu, 2, 14, 25, 26, 172, 230, 237n, 238n

  on Chhiring, 11–12

  clothing of, 17

  debts of, 19

  wife’s death and, 18

  Sherpa, Nima, 18

  Sherpa, Pasang Lahmu, 24–25

  Sherpa, Pemba Gyalje, 68, 103–4, 122, 141, 144, 183–84

  Big Pasang and Jumik’s deaths and, 200, 205

  descent of, 171–72, 173

  Marco found and rescued by, 162, 204–6, 223, 255n

  media and, 224

  medicine given to, 184

  photos taken by, 200, 205, 253n, 254n, 255n

  at tea party, 218

  Tsering’s consulting with, 187

  Wilco’s location and, 256n

  Sherpa, Pem Phutar, 19, 238n

  Sherpa, Rinjing, 212, 256n

  Sherpa, Sonam Tsering, 20, 21, 24–25

  Sherpa, Tensing Futi, 2, 27, 44, 47, 150, 172, 227

  Sherpa, Tensing Norbu, 240n

  Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, 70–76, 245n

  autobiography of, 76

  in Darjeeling, 71, 72, 76

  death of, 246n

  discrimination experienced by, 71–72

  ethnicity dispute over, 75–76

  Everest climbed by, 17, 38, 73–76, 245n, 246n

  Everest obsession of, 72–73

  flags held up by, 74, 246n

  as indentured servant, 71

  marriages of, 71, 73, 75

  name of, 67

  as porter, 72, 73

  as sirdar, 73

  sudden stardom of, 74–75

  Sherpa, Tshering Namdu, 2, 27, 44, 47, 150, 172, 227

  Sherpa-climber, 70

  Sherpani, Dawa (Chhiring’s wife), 2, 26–27, 114, 150, 172

  Chhiring’s return and, 220, 227–28

  childbirths of, 27

  in Colorado, 45–47

  K2 climb as viewed by, 43, 46–47, 105, 227

  name of, 67

  Shigar River, 78, 96

  Shigri, Shujaat, 99

  Shimshal, 78–81, 78, 108, 154, 210

  founding of, 79–81

  glaciers and, 90–91

  inviolate feeling in, 86–87

  jeep track to, 86

  to K2 (map), 94

  K2 deaths and, 213–14

  Nazir’s visit to, 225–27

  population of, 81, 86

  satellite phone in, 87, 214

  Shimshalis, 79, 147, 226

  see also specific people

  Shimshal Pass, 78, 81, 82, 84, 94

  Shimshal River, 78, 80

  Shimshal Valley, 77–91, 78

  legends about, 79–81

  mountaineers in, 85–86

  partition of India and, 85

  as vacation destination, 84–85

  Younghusband’s espionage in, 81–84

  Shipton, Eric, 72

  Shishapangma, 16

  Shiva (Shankar), 238n

  shoes, 100, 223

  Shoulder, 137, 138, 151, 152, 154, 185, 186, 190, 250n

  Camp 4 in, 121, 142–46, 147, 169, 206

  descent to, 169, 178, 194

  Shruti, Princess of Nepal, 243n

  Siachen glacier, 78, 211

  signing bonuses, 99–100

  Silk Road, 79, 81

  Singapore team, 90, 109

  sirdar (chief of the mountain workers), 73

  Sjogren, Tom, 206

  Skardu, 99, 213, 214

  Combined Military Hospital in, 113, 215

  Fearless Five in, 95–96, 211

  on maps, xiv, 78

  ski poles, 165, 194

  Skog, Cecilie, 5, 114, 115, 126, 149–51, 159, 166, 210

  in Antarctica, 222, 257n

  and Rolf’s disappearance and death, 168–69, 222, 252n

  scream of, 150, 151

  sky burial, 103, 249n

  sleep, REM, 201

  sleeping bags, 34, 35, 187, 208, 240n

  of dead climbers, 183, 209, 224

  of Pasang, 179, 180

  smallpox, 83

  smog, 21

  sniff test, 85

  Snow Dome, 121, 147, 156, 164, 165, 180, 183, 189, 197–98, 252n

  snow leopards, 15, 86

  socks, 146, 222

  solar eclipse, 154, 251n

  Solukhumbu region, 68, 103

  sonam (Buddhist concept of virtue), 174

  South Col, 25

  Southeast Asia, 12

  see also specific places

  South Korean K2 Abruzzi Spur Flying Jump, 2–7, 60–63, 115, 129, 143–46, 148, 156–60

  at Base Camp, 104–5, 106

  descent of, 163–65

  evacuation of, 210, 211, 256n

  gear of deceased and, 209

  Jumik tangled in ropes and tied to Korean clients, 162, 167–68, 189–90, 193–98, 252n, 254n

  Lahmu’s donation from, 221

  late return of, 185–88

  Manaslu and, 220–21, 228–29

  Pasang Lama’s joining of, 60–63

  provisions of, 96, 126–27

  rope fixing and, 122

  selection of name for, 62

  sex and, 99

  see also K2, 2008 disaster on

  South Pole, 38, 114, 126

  spies:

  British, 81–84

  Indian, 51

  Russian, 83

  sponsorship, 41, 43, 45, 60–61, 101, 105, 119, 221, 222, 228

  K2 summit and, 159–60, 180

  squirrels, whistling ground, 79

  Staleman, Jelle, 141

  stealing:

  in caravan raids, 81, 82

  by Pasang Lama, 59–60

  of rosary, 126

  Steamboat Springs, Colo., 45–47

  steroids, 139, 140, 166

  storms, 19, 24, 30–31, 35, 36, 113, 115

  charity supplies and, 100

  Hoselito’s tent destroyed by, 120, 140–41

  stoves, 180, 181, 182, 228, 253n

  Sträng, Fredrik, 130–31, 143, 151–54

  tape of, 154

  on value of summits, 160

  strikes, 71, 72, 100

  strokes, 117

  summits:

  cost of, 160

  late, 155, 251n–52n

  of Lhotse, 229–30

  of Makalu, 229

  value of, 160

>   see also K2 summit

  sun, 148–49, 154, 155, 158

  sunbathing, 34, 240n

  Surah Ikhlas, 226

  Surendra, King of Nepal, 52

  surfers, 200

  surgical masks, 21

  Surra, 69

  Swedish clients, 228, 229

  Switzerland, 224

  Szundy, Matt, 196

  Tajikistan, xiv, 10, 78

  Takar Dolsangma (goddess of K2), 2, 3, 129, 144, 149, 173, 203, 210

  Chhiring’s consulting on, 103–4

  Chhiring’s offerings to, 104, 124, 155

  Dren’s fall and, 150

  legend of, 16, 238n

  Pasang and, 106

  reincarnation and, 174

  Wiessner’s attempt and, 33–34, 239n, 240n

  Takeuchi, Hirotaka, 88

  tattoos, 113

  tea party, 217–19, 257n

  teashops, 26–27

  technology, 41–42

  television, 40, 74, 211, 257n

  tents, 35, 36, 83, 136

  at Abruzzi Camp 2, 131, 132

  at Camp 4, 142, 144, 146, 151, 169, 178, 179–80, 182, 183, 184, 187, 250n

  carrying of, 100

  at Cesen Camp 2, 133–34, 136

  at Cesen Camp 3, 136, 137–38, 140–41

  destruction of, 113, 120, 140–41

  Italian expedition and, 39–40, 41, 241n

  at K2 Base Camp, 98, 101, 208–9

  near gassing in, 118

  Terrorist and Destructive Activities Act, 53

  terrorists, terrorism, 53, 58, 107–8

  September 11 attacks, 109

  Tethys Sea, 12

  Thame, 71

  Thingi Shalsangma, 16

  thrombophlebitis, 37

  Thuraya phones, 191–92

  Chhiring’s use of, 104, 105

  confidentiality and, 206

  Wilco’s use of, 191–92, 206–7

  Tibet, xiv, 10, 12, 16, 29, 55

  British influence in, 245n

  Chinese invasion of, 22, 76

  Kham region of, 66, 244n

  Kharta region of, 70–71, 245n, 246n

  Mongols’ invasion of, 14, 66

  Muslim invasion of, 66

  Sherpa origins in, 66

  sky burial in, 103, 249n

  Tibetan language, 56, 239n

  Tibetans, 68, 75, 76, 246n

  see also Bhote

  Time, 70

  Tisar, 100

  Titan (shield bearer), 79

  TMZ, 222

  tourism, 17, 22, 26, 65, 109, 134, 226, 227, 243n

  Pakistani incentives to, 108

  Tourism Ministry, Pakistani, 96, 108, 217–19

  trade:

  British, 81

  caravan, 81, 82

  of Sherpa, 66, 71

  traffic, 21, 57

  Trango Towers, 96, 97

  Traverse, 121, 146, 156, 164–68, 170, 172, 180, 194, 197–98

  Tredway, Dana, 45

  Tribhuvan, King of Nepal, 52, 74

  Tribhuvan International Airport, 220

  Tsechu, 70, 245n

  Tseringma, 15–16, 19–20, 238n

  Tseringmi Kangsu, 238n

  Tshe-chu, 245n

  Tumlingtar, 55

  unemployment, 53, 58

  unions, 96, 100

 

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