When washing your bike, use a light mist spray to avoid directing water into bearing areas, such as hubs or the bottom bracket, where it can break down bearing grease.
A mild soap (such as dish soap) will remove dirt and grime, although it won’t be strong enough to clean grease-laden parts such as the chain rings, cogs, and chains, as well as the insides of hubs, bottom brackets, and the headset.
Although solvents such as gasoline, kerosene, and paint thinner will cut grease and oil, we don’t recommended that you use them because they’re highly flammable, they emit toxic fumes, and they’re very harsh on your bike.
Commercially available degreasers are designed to not harm bike components — or you. Many of them are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Citrus-based degreasers are among our favorites — they’re made from oil extracted from orange peels. A number of green cleaners are also available — not only will they clean your bike, but they don’t give off the toxic fumes associated with typical solvents.
Specialized tools for advanced bike jobs
In a chef’s personal kitchen, some cooking tools (like knives or bowls) are multipurpose and can be used for a variety of recipes; other tools (like pastry bags or pasta machines) are very specialized. Unless those more specialized tools are in the kitchen of someone who makes pastries or pasta from scratch, they’re likely going to remain stored away most of the time.
The same is true of many specialized bike tools: They’re designed for specific procedures (such as extracting a crank or removing cogs), activities that you’ll either perform infrequently or leave to your local bike shop.
Companies like Park Tool sell hundreds of different types of these tools, many of which are designed to work with specific makes and models of bike components. When shopping for a particular tool, make sure you identify the one that’s designed to work with your bike component. If you aren’t sure, your local bike shop will be able to advise you.
Here’s a list of specialized tools you may have a need for if you want to take your repairs up a notch:
Chain tool (see Figure 3-6): If you plan on replacing or repairing a chain, you’ll need this tool. It’s used to break or connect a chain by pushing a pin through the chain links. Some chains, such as SRAM Master Link, do not require a chain tool to be removed and reinstalled. A chain tool is still needed for installing a new chain in order to cut it to the proper length.
Figure 3-6: A chain tool.
Crank puller (see Figure 3-7): Many bikes require this special tool, which threads into the crank to pull it off the bottom bracket. In these situations, you’ll also require a socket set or a dedicated crank bolt tool (usually 14mm or 15mm).
Figure 3-7: A crank puller.
Cone wrench (see Figure 3-8): You use a cone wrench if you’re going to overhaul or make an adjustment to the bearings of your wheel hub. There are a number of standard sizes (usually 13mm for the front and 15mm for the rear), so be sure to check your wheel specifications. It’s good to have two of each size.
Figure 3-8: A cone wrench.
Chain whip (see Figure 3-9): A chain whip is used to hold the cogs in place while removing a cassette. Two of these can be used together to remove individual cogs from a freewheel.
Figure 3-9: A chain whip.
Freewheel tool (see Figure 3-10): A freewheel tool is required for removing the cassette from the rear hub. As always is the case with any specialized tool, be sure to buy one that fits your bike’s particular make of freewheel or cassette.
Figure 3-10: A freewheel tool.
Bottom bracket tools (see Figure 3-11): Depending on the type of bottom bracket on your bike, you’ll need one or more tools. Review your owner’s manual or check with your local bike store to identify the manufacturer and model — this’ll determine what tools you need.
Figure 3-11: The bottom bracket tools you need vary depending on the bike you have.
Headset tool (see Figure 3-12): To work on the headset, you need two large, flat, open-ended wrenches. These come in different sizes, so be sure to check the owner’s manual and buy ones the fit your headset.
Figure 3-12: A headset tool.
Spoke wrench (see Figure 3-13): Also called a spoke key or nipple spanner, this wrench is used to tighten, remove, or install a spoke. Although spokes may all appear the same to an untrained eye, they require the right-size spoke wrench to prevent damage to the nipples.
Figure 3-13: A spoke wrench.
Setting Up Shop
Working on a bike doesn’t require a lot of space, but it is convenient to have a location set aside in your house where you can comfortably organize your tools, handle individual bike parts, and have enough space to move around without bumping into anything. If you’re planning on doing your own bike repair and maintenance, you may want to start thinking about where to do it.
Considering how much space you need
Although it’d be nice to have an individual room in which to set up your own bike shop, most people don’t have that much extra space. Fortunately, you don’t need a large space. You just need an area that’s long enough and wide enough to hold your bike and possibly a workbench, with enough space in between that you can operate comfortably. Part of a basement or garage can be a solution, or even the corner of a room.
Factoring in ventilation
Look for a space with proper ventilation. Vapors from cleaners and degreasers can be irritating to some, so unless you want to be seeing colors and taking a ride on a magic carpet instead of a bike, you need access to plenty of fresh air.
Not all products are pleasing to the nose. Go to the back of the bike shop and you’ll know what we mean. If you do this work in a small unventilated area, you’re asking for problems.
The products that you’ll accumulate as a part of your bike shop should be used with caution. Be sure to
Read and follow all warning labels both for tools and chemicals.
Wear rubber gloves to protect your skin from chemicals.
Wear safety glasses when cutting, grinding, or drilling.
Use tools that are designed for your bike’s components. Forcing a tool that doesn’t quite fit a part could cause it to slip or break, which can cause injury.
When in doubt, consult with your owner’s manual or your local bike shop.
Looking into the light(ing)
Also pay attention to lighting. Extra lighting can be helpful so you don’t strain your eyes while working on small, intricate parts. A droplight hung from the ceiling will give you the ability to move the light as needed, to reach those poorly lit parts of your bike.
Wrangling a workbench
You’ll need a flat surface for many repair and maintenance procedures. You may need to lay out parts, cut a cable, or steady a hand when setting bearings. This is where a workbench comes in handy. In fact, what would a shop be without a workbench? You wouldn’t have a kitchen with a counter, would you?
Look for a bench with enough flat space to lay out your tools and parts, and one that’s solid enough that if you need to strike something with a hammer or attach a vise, there’ll be enough support.
Because clutter can build up quickly, maintain some space under the workbench to stow away trash, rags, cleaning cloths, and spare parts. This will go a long way toward keeping your space organized and impressing your housemates enough that they’ll actually visit or bring you a drink once in a while.
Focusing on storage
To organize your tools, you’ll want either a toolbox (to put your tools in) or a pegboard (to hang your tools on). Most hardware stores supply long and short hooks that work with pegboards.
If you’re working with a pegboard, trace the outline of each tool onto the board with a marker, and you’ll always remember what goes where. This technique will also keep you from misplacing a tool and blaming it on the kids.
Banking on a bike stand
If you’re serious about doing your own bike repair and maintenance, and you’ve invested in the
right tools for the job, you may want to think about buying a bike stand (see Figure 3-14).
Working on a bike when it’s suspended off the ground is much easier. You can raise, lower, and rotate the bike to get exactly the position you want. Plus, you’re not hunched down over your bike — your back will thank you for that when you’re finished.
Figure 3-14: A bike stand makes the job of bike repair much easier.
A number of different types of bike stands are on the market. Prices range from under $100 to several hundred dollars. The best stands have adjustable heights and allow you to rotate the bike 360 degrees. Some are freestanding, while others attach to a wall or worktable (which can be useful in tight spaces). Some models are foldable for easy storage when you’re finished — useful if you’re short on space. In general, the more-expensive models have designs that provide greater stability, which is useful when applying leverage to your bike.
If you don’t have the money for a stand, you can get creative and suspend your bike with hooks connected to the ceiling. Although many jobs are much easier if your bike is immobilized by a stand, you can do most jobs with a suspended bike.
When clamping your bike to the bike stand, consult the owner’s manual for your bike. Most bikes can be clamped at the seat post or frame, but some bike manufacturers recommend that you avoid clamping or over-clamping the frame. This is especially true for carbon-fiber bikes, which should never be clamped in traditional stands.
Some bikes can be turned upside-down and supported by the handlebars and saddle. If you do this, be careful to move the shifters out of the way so that they aren’t damaged. The clamps that hold the shifters in place can be loosened with an Allen wrench and tightened when you return them to their original position.
Working on bikes can get pretty messy. You’re dealing with bottles of oil, tubes of grease, dirt, grime, and cleaning solutions. After some procedures, you’ll feel like someone should spray you off with a hose before you leave the shop. To protect your floor and to facilitate cleaning up afterward, always place a mat, dropcloth, or extra piece of carpet or flooring under your bike. You’ll be thankful you did.
Repair and maintenance tips
If you’ve just embarked on a journey of bike repair and maintenance, you’re on course for an adventure of learning, self-sufficiency, pride, and satisfaction. We want your journey to be full of enjoyment, not one that makes you want to pull your hair out with frustration. Follow these tips, and you can avoid lots of unnecessary problems:
Take safety precautions when you work. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes and rubber gloves to cover your skin. (Gloves will also keep your hands clean. Trying to get dirt and grease off your hands and out from under your fingernails can be a chore.) If you’re using chemicals in an enclosed space, limit your exposure by wearing a mask and limiting your exposure time. Better yet, don’t use chemicals in an enclosed space, period. Make sure that you always work in an area with proper ventilation.
When you take something apart, note the order in which you dissembled it. This tip will save you all kinds of time when you try to reassemble it. You can scratch notes on a piece of paper or line up the parts in sequence on a flat surface.
Before reassembling a component, thoroughly clean its parts. Also clean the part of the bike you removed it from.
After you finish lubricating a part, wipe off any excess lubrication. This will help keep dirt and grime to a minimum.
Be careful when tightening parts. Too much force and you could strip the threads. If you aren’t sure, under-tighten the part, check it, and if it’s loose, tighten it a little more.
Never force a part that doesn’t want to cooperate. This advice is especially true for threads. Always check to see that the threads match, use grease on the threads, wait for the grease to penetrate the threads, and tighten slowly when you begin — to make sure you don’t cause any damage.
When following the instructions in this book, keep in mind that many procedures may vary depending on the component, the bike, and the manufacturer. We give you guidelines for basic bike maintenance and repair, but you may need to tailor them to your individual bike. When in doubt, follow your bike owner’s manual.
Don’t feel as though you have to do everything yourself. If you aren’t sure about how something works, you’re better off taking the time to look for the answer in the owner’s manual or asking staff in your local bike shop. Otherwise, you could end up damaging your bike or hurting yourself. Remember: Even the best the bike mechanics ask for help sometimes.
Chapter 4
Making like MacGyver: Handling Repairs on the Road
In This Chapter
Making emergency repairs on the side of the road
Identifying problems that make your bike unsafe to ride
Inspecting your bike after an accident
Using duct tape as an all-purpose repair tool
In a perfect world, your bike would never break down mid-ride. You’d be able to anticipate and prevent any malfunctions before they happened. Unfortunately, you can’t predict when your bike is going to give out, cause you problems, or be involved in a collision that makes it unrideable. The only thing you know for sure is that there’s always a chance that one day you’ll be broken down on the side of the road and need to make an emergency repair if you have any hopes of finishing your ride.
When it comes to emergency bike repairs, your best bet is to be prepared. There’s no AAA or OnStar service that’ll come to your rescue if you break down. Plus, it may happen in an area where there are few bikers to help you out, and you may not have a friend or family member available to pick you up. Nothing is worse than planning a nice, long bicycle ride and ending up taking a not-so-nice, long hike while pushing your bicycle. In times like these, you’ll be thankful that you took some time to read this chapter.
In this chapter, I explain the importance of keeping the appropriate tools with you to make repairs, fixing common sources of bike breakdowns, being able to identify those repairs that make your bike unsafe to ride, and getting creative and improvising a solution with whatever materials you can round up in order to hold your bike together until you can get it home.
When You Can’t Call AAA: Handling Your Own Bike Repairs on the Side of the Road
Your bike can break down in numerous ways — in this section, we cover the most likely scenarios. If you know how to handle the repairs in this section, you’ll be able to ride with confidence, knowing that there’s nowhere you can’t go on your bike.
When you ride, always keep a set of tools available so that when emergency strikes, you’re prepared to deal with it. (See Chapter 16 for a list of tools you should bring along when you ride.)
Repairing a bent rim
Even if you do your best to avoid objects in the road, sooner or later a pothole will sneak up on you and you won’t be able to avoid it. If your tires are inflated properly, your wheels should absorb the blow and you shouldn’t have a problem. But if you hit one of the bottomless potholes that some cities are infamous for — the kind that look like they were left by a landmine — or you crash into a curb or some other immovable object, you may end up damaging your wheel so much that you can’t ride. If your wheel is bent or “tacoed” and it won’t roll even if the brake is removed (like the one in Figure 4-1), you may need to bend it back into shape in order to make the trip home.
Although the wheel may be beyond repair and will probably have to be replaced, your immediate goal is to return it as close as possible to the original shape so that it’ll spin and clear the brakes.
Here’s how to repair a bent wheel to get you back home:
1. Remove the wheel from the frame.
2. With the tire on the wheel, grab the sides of the wheel with both hands, with the bent part facing away from you.
3. Find something like a curb where you can support the wheel at an angle with the hub elevated on the ground.
4. Using your weight, try to forcefully
press down on the wheel against the direction of the buckle.
Repeat this a few times — that may be enough to correct the bend. If not, continue to Step 5.
Figure 4-1: A bent rim.
5. If the previous step is not enough to return the wheel to a round shape, try hitting the bent part of the rim against the ground.
Hit it several times, like a blacksmith shaping a piece of metal, until it begins to resemble a round wheel again. Start with a soft blow and increase the intensity with each blow, after examining the rim for results. This is a last-ditch effort if all else fails.
Have the rim replaced after you get home.
Replacing a broken spoke
Wheels are amazing things: Even though they have rims that are suspended by, on average, 28 to 36 thin metal spokes, they can take a tremendous amount of punishment. A wheel gets its strength from the equal or balanced tension spread across its spokes. Remove a spoke, and this tension becomes unbalanced, causing the wheel to spin out of alignment or true, and potentially making the wheel unsafe to ride on.
The only permanent solution to a broken spoke is to replace it and retrue the wheel. But if you break a spoke while you’re riding, follow these steps to get yourself home:
1. Identify the broken spoke and remove it.
If you can’t remove the spoke, wrap it around one of the neighboring spokes, as shown in Figure 4-2.
2. If you have a replacement spoke, first remove the wheel and tire.
If you don’t have a replacement spoke or can’t replace it, loosen the two spokes that are adjacent to the broken spoke. This will help balance out the tension in the wheel and bring it somewhat back into alignment.
3. Insert the spoke through the hub hole and weave it through the other spokes in the same form as the rest of the spokes.
Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies® Page 6
