Figure 18-2: The proper saddle height.
Another adjustment you can make is the fore and aft (how far back or forward the seat is positioned). If your seat is too far to the rear, you’ll be stretching to reach the bars, which puts strain on your back and knees. (See Chapter 9 for how to adjust fore and aft.)
Check Tire Pressure
Before you set off for a ride, make sure you check your tire pressure. If your tires aren’t properly inflated, riding will be less efficient and you’ll be at greater risk of damaging your rims and getting flats.
When checking tire pressure, it isn’t enough to pinch the tires to feel whether they’re firm — tires that are under-inflated feel very similar to those with the proper amount of pressure. The most accurate and surefire way of checking tire pressure is to use a tire-pressure gauge. When filling tires with air, pump them to the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire.
Check the Brakes
Checking your brakes takes only a few seconds, and it can be one of the most important things you do before setting off on a ride.
Start by visually inspecting the brake pads for wear; confirm that there are still grooves cut into the pads. When these grooves wear away, it’s time to change the pads. Also, check to make sure that the brake pads are not rubbing against the wheels. There should be between 1 to 2 millimeters of space between the pads and the rim.
After visually inspecting the brake pads, give the brake levers a strong squeeze. The pads should firmly grip the wheel. (See Chapter 8 for instructions on making adjustments to the brakes.)
You should also be able to apply the breaks without having to pull the lever more than halfway back to the handlebars — any more than that, and you could be putting yourself in a dangerous position when it comes time to brake.
Look for Looseness
The rattling of components or extra movement in parts of your bike could be a sign that something is starting to come apart. If you ignore these signs, you could end up causing damage to your bike or find yourself on the end of a bike that decides to disassemble itself while you’re riding it.
To test your bike for looseness:
Lift the front wheel up 2 to 3 inches, and drop it back down. Do the same to the rear wheel using the seat to lift it. Listen for anything rattling.
Check for looseness in the stem and handlebars by putting the front wheel between your legs and moving the handlebars from side to side (see Figure 18-3).
Figure 18-3: Checking for looseness in the handlebars and stem.
Examine the rest of the frame by straddling the frame with both legs and trying to move the bike forward and backward while squeezing the brakes. If the bike moves during either of these two tests, it could indicate looseness. If anything shakes or rattles, it could mean that an attachment like a water-bottle cage or a rack for carrying panniers (bags) is loose.
Check the crank arms by grabbing one in each hand and trying to wiggle them from side to side. If there is some play in the crank arms, it could be time for a bottom bracket adjustment.
Check the Wheels
Take a moment to check the wheels before you depart on your next trip. Wheels are the only parts of the bike that are in contact with the road; ensuring that they’re secure and in good working order will help ensure that you yourself don’t come in contact with the road.
To inspect the wheels:
Examine the quick-release levers to confirm that they’re securely fastened in the closed position. Open and close the levers once to confirm that they’re tight. If you find that they’re loose, open the lever, turn the nut opposite the lever a quarter-turn, and re-close the lever. Continue this procedure until properly tightened.
Grab the frame with one hand and, with the other hand, give each wheel a shake from side to side to check for looseness (see Figure 18-4). There should little or no amount of play in the hubs. Any significant movement could be a sign that there is an issue with the wheel.
While you’re grabbing the wheel, pluck its spokes. Like a string on a fine-tuned harp, they should respond with a consistent twang indicating they’re of similar tension.
Figure 18-4: Checking for looseness in the wheels.
Lift the wheel off the ground and give it a spin to see that it doesn’t wobble and that the rim doesn’t contact the brake pads at any point. If the wheel doesn’t spin straight, it may need to be trued. Contact with the brake pads could also mean that the wheel isn’t properly seated in the dropouts. (See Chapter 7 if you have to make adjustments to your wheels.)
Grab Your Toolkit
Although the probability is that your next ride will be uneventful, don’t let that be a reason to hop on your bike without grabbing your toolkit. Murphy’s Law has a devious way of striking in the least expected moment, so don’t tempt fate by leaving your toolkit behind. (For more details on creating a tool kit and what it consists of, turn to Chapter 16.)
Most important for your toolkit is a patch kit to repair flats, tire levers to remove tires, and some Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, and spoke wrenches. For safety, remember to pack a rag or some moist wipes with your kit so your greasy hands don’t slip off the bars after a roadside repair. Plus, you won’t gross out your friends when you stop for a snack and have to put food in your mouth.
Wear Your Helmet and Gloves
Wearing a helmet is one of the smartest things you can do to improve safety while you bike. A stylish, light, adjustable, comfortable, and ventilated helmet doesn’t cost much money — and it protects your cranium (which is pretty much priceless).
If you’ve been in an accident that caused an impact to your helmet, or if you’ve had the helmet for more than a few years, consider replacing it. The helmet’s foam, which acts as a shock absorber, breaks down over time or after an accident and becomes less effective.
When Dennis isn’t riding, a pair of biking gloves sits inside his helmet. Gloves significantly reduce vibration, which comes from the bike being in contact with the road. Gloves may not make much difference on a short ride, but you’ll be thankful that your hands aren’t numb after a couple hours on your bike. Gloves will also protect your hands in the event of a crash when the instinct is to use your hands to brace a fall. Gloves come in all shapes and sizes; Dennis likes the comfort of those with gel in the palms.
Improve Your Visibility
We can’t emphasize enough how important it is to make yourself visible to others, especially if you’re going to be riding on the road. Drivers are faced with many distractions — cellphones, GPS devices, iPods, food, screaming kids — and if you blend into the background, you increase the chances that you’ll be on the wrong end of a close encounter with a 4,000-pound bundle of steel and rubber.
Here are some ways you can improve your visibility:
Wear brightly colored clothing — even during daytime biking.
Make sure that your wheels and pedals have reflectors.
Use reflective arm and leg bands.
Keep a bright white front light and a flashing LED rear light for when you’re caught out during dusk or for nighttime riding.
Make sure you check the batteries in your lights. Although battery-powered lights are bright, they fade fast. Keep a spare set of batteries in your house so you never leave home without lights that work.
Stock Your Emergency Gear
Although most of your bike rides will be pleasingly uneventful, you never know when an emergency may strike. You can end up getting lost, having an accident, getting caught in a sudden storm, or becoming fatigued. Be prepared for the unexpected by having an emergency pack of supplies available.
Before you head out, always fill your pannier bag with the following items:
Your cellphone
Identification (such as your driver’s license)
Money
Energy bars
A rain jacket
Sunglasses
If you don’t want to have to carry your wallet with you on your rides, c
heck out RoadID (www.roadid.com), where you can buy a wrist band with your name and emergency-contact information printed on it, as well as a shoe pouch (in which you can put money, your house key, an ID, and so on). You can get a wrist band or a shoe pouch for about $20 each (as of this writing).
Chapter 19
Ten Considerations in Fitting Your Bike
In This Chapter
Looking at the length of the crank arm
Choosing the right gearing
Paying attention to all things saddle
Finding the right frame size
Handling handlebars
In the course of maintaining and repairing your bike, you need to consider how any adjustments you make might affect the way your bike fits you. The better a bike is fitted or tailored to your body size, the more enjoyable your riding experience will be. A properly fitted bike leads to more efficient riding, more power delivered to the pedals, greater comfort, and less chance of soreness or injury.
When you first purchase a bike, you should work with a fit specialist at the bike shop to make sure that the bike you buy fits your body. But you can — and should — also focus on fit as you maintain and repair your bike.
Fit is not an exact science. Yes, there are some high-tech measurement and sizing machines, fitting systems, charts, and formulas. But put two experts in a room, and they’ll come up with a different set of measurements. Our best advice is to follow the basic principles and tips in this chapter and throughout this book and consult with your local bike shop. If you do that, you should be able to get a fairly good fit with your bike — and your back, shoulders, arms, legs, and hands will thank you for miles to come.
Considering Crank Arm Length
The crank arm determines the circumference in which the pedals rotate. The larger the crank arm, the larger the circumference in which you’ll be pedaling. A longer crank arm gives you more leverage when you pedal. Riding with a longer crank arm is kind of like being in a lower gear, an important benefit if you’re doing a lot of climbing. On the other hand, a shorter crank arm comes in handy if you pedal at a high cadence (for example, if you’re racing).
With longer crank arms it’s important to make sure the bottom bracket has enough clearance. If you buy a bike with a crank arm that’s too long, the crank arm may hit the ground when you’re cornering.
Your height will impact the length of the crank arm you chose. In most cases, taller bikers should have longer crank arms, and shorter bikers should have shorter crank arms.
A number of different crank arm lengths are available. It’s common to see lengths of 165mm to 180mm in 2.5mm increments, with the most common lengths being 170mm and 172.5mm. If you’re in the NBA, you’ll be glad to know that a few manufacturers will sell you a crank of 185mm or more. Work with your local bike store to find the crank the best suits you.
Going for Gearing
Choosing the appropriate gearing may not be fitting a bike in the traditional sense, but it is an important factor in how well a bike fits the way you ride. By selecting a bike with the gearing that meets your fitness levels, how you pedal, and the terrain on which you ride, you can make a significant and positive impact on your riding experience.
Most newer bikes have seven to ten cogs in the rear and two to three chainrings in the front. Multiply these two numbers together and you have the total number of gears for your bike. If you’re in shape and you don’t do a lot of climbing, you’re probably fine with seven to eight cogs and two chainrings. Some riders like to have a third chainring in case a climb is necessary or fatigue sets in at the end of a long ride (though that third chainring does add extra weight and three chainrings won’t shift as effortlessly as two); third chainrings are also useful for mountain biking and touring.
If you’re planning on doing a lot of mountain biking or touring, talk to your local bike shop to make sure you have the right gearing. They can give you advice not just about the total number of gears but about the size of the individual cogs and chainrings, important factors in gearing. (For a more detailed discussion of gearing, turn to Chapter 2.)
Resisting the Temptation to Tilt Your Saddle
Some people are tempted to tilt the saddle downward in an attempt to find a more comfortable position and relieve pressure on the groin. Resist the temptation! The problem with this position is that it causes you to slide forward against the handlebars, which puts additional weight and stress on your arms, wrists, hands, and shoulders. In the other extreme, a saddle tilted upward can cause discomfort, especially for men — and we don’t need to explain why!
In general, we recommend that you try to keep your seat flat and parallel to the ground. To check the straightness of your seat, place a level on top of the seat, and make adjustments as necessary.
Setting the Saddle Height
Saddle height is an important factor in fitting your bike. A saddle set too high reduces the amount of power available for pedaling and causes you to stretch for the pedals on the down stroke and rock back and forth on the saddle, which can cause soreness. A saddle set too low doesn’t allow you to use your leg muscles efficiently, puts extra strain on the knees, and can lead to injury.
We notice many riders whose saddles are not at the proper height, sometimes significantly so. Odds are, a rider whose saddle isn’t set to the proper height made some adjustments over time that affected the saddle height but didn’t know exactly where to set it. In Chapter 18, we give you step-by-step instructions for choosing the proper saddle height for your bike.
After you’ve set the correct height for your saddle, mark the seat post with tape or a small score in the metal so you can easily return it to that position if the post comes loose or you have to remove it.
Looking at the Saddle Fore and Aft
The fore and aft are how far forward and backward the saddle is on your bike. If the saddle is too far forward, you lose leverage when you pedal; if it’s too far back, you could be putting strain on your back. As with most parts of the bike, the fit depends on how you’re going to be using your bike. If you’re racing, you’ll want to have the saddle in a more forward position along with the handlebars, which will put you in a more bent-over, aerodynamic position, and allow you to deliver more power to the pedals. If you’re not racing, though, the best position will have the saddle nose behind the bottom bracket.
To find the proper fore and aft position, sit on your bike with the pedals parallel to the ground while someone supports you. Hang a string with a weight tied to the end of it from your kneecap down past the pedal. The line from your kneecap should pass through the center of the pedal where the axle threads into the crank arm (see Figure 19-1). If the string is in front of the pedal, move the saddle forward. If the string is in back of the pedal, move the saddle backward.
Figure 19-1: Use a string to set your saddles fore and aft position.
After you make the adjustment, give your bike a test ride to make sure you feel comfortable. Remember that after you first change the position of the saddle, you may feel a little strange. Give it some time before you make a final decision on where it should be.
Choosing the Right Saddle Type
Unless you’re a racer competing in sprints, you’re going to be spending the majority of your time biking with your bum on a saddle. The saddle is one of the three points of contact your body has with the bike (the pedals and handlebars are the other two), and the saddle is where a lot of your weight is.
Some saddles are designed to support the specific anatomy of men, while others are designed for women, so make sure you choose the right one. Saddles for men are normally longer and narrower and sometimes have cutout sections or extra padding to help prevent numbness. For women, saddles are shorter and wider toward the back to better accommodate a woman’s wider pelvis. (Children use smaller sized saddles than adults do.) Figure 19-2 shows the differences between saddles for men and women.
Figure 19-2: Saddles for men (right) and women (left).
Saddles come in a variety of different materials. Leather saddles conform to the shape of your butt, although they require special care, especially in wet weather. Other saddles are made with gel or foam padding with many different coverings that are more resistant to the elements.
You may think that a bigger, softer saddle would equal a more comfortable ride. Unfortunately, bigger and softer does not translate into comfort. Weight from your body should come into contact with the seat through two bones at the lower part of your pelvis. If you have a properly fitted seat, when you get off your bike, you should see two indentations centered on each side of your seat. If the seat is too soft, your entire butt is in contact with the seat causing pressure on tissue and nerves that are not designed for this. Although a firmer seat may cause your pelvic bones to be sore after the first ride or two, in the long run, you’ll find that it provides the most comfortable ride. As crazy as it sounds, the more you ride, the smaller the seat you’ll want.
For comfort, wear biking shorts, which are designed without seams in the crotch area — seams can chafe and rub the soft tissue in the crotch. Biking shorts also include extra padding or chamois, which provides extra comfort, wicks away moisture, and keeps bacteria at bay. Just make sure you wash your biking shorts after each ride. Also, don’t forget to remove your underwear when you wear them — the goal is to have no seams and less material to bunch up and cause chafing.
Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies® Page 26
