by Susan Casey
Hawaii proved to be far more than the main location for The Wave. It became my home, and a place of solace after my father’s sudden death in July 2008. I had barely started writing at that point, and in the aftermath I didn’t even know how I could, but the people and the land and the ocean helped me through that dark time. Everywhere in Maui I encountered outlandishly giving people, and I will never forget their kindness: Rich and Ann Marie Landry (and all the Maui pink cap swimmers!), Gary Ryan, Marie Cruz, Ed and Kerri Stewart, Felice and Paul Miller, Chelsea Hill, Cheyenne Ehrlich, Ian Horswill, the Reverends Shelley and Kedar St. John, Skeeter Tichnor and everyone at The Studio Maui, Chinta Mackinnon, Tim Sherer, Doug Fujiwara, Skip Armstrong, and Eddie Cabatu. I send a special super-aloha to Phyllis Tavares, the founder of Ninth Life, a no-kill cat shelter in Haiku. Phyl adopted the family of stray cats that took up residence on my porch, nestling together behind my surfboards. If you want to read the inspiring story of a local hero, check out her Web site: www.9thlifehawaii.org.
Back on the mainland, as well, I am grateful to many friends. Andy Astrachan read the earliest version of this work, and his encouragement buoyed and inspired me. My deep thanks also go to Hilary Laidlaw, Niccolo Ravano, David Lynch, Sharon Ludtke, Kristin Gary, Samantha Carey, Eldar Beiseitov, Ann Jackson, Susan Scandrett, Tim Carvell, Tom Keeton, Celia and Henry McGee, Susan Orlean and John Gillespie, Jill Meilus, Vic Calandra, Peggy Dold, Isolde Motley, Maria Moyer, Ace Mackay-Smith, Mark Taylor, Paula Blanchet, Susan King, John and Jane Clarke, Mary Lou Furlong, La Mura Boelling, Dr. Guldal Caba, Dr. Lionel Bissoon, and Leslie Fischer.
As always, I owe much to my family: my mother Angela Casey, my brothers Bob Casey and Bill Casey, along with Pam Manning, Beth Oman, Mike Casey, Caroline Casey, Kellie Casey, John Casey, Wilda Alford, Lorna Walkling, Tom Walkling, Chris Walkling, and Sarah Walkling-Innes.
Among my colleagues I am especially indebted to Martha Corcoran, whose help throughout this project was invaluable. Tom Colligan and Cathay Che contributed key reporting and fact checking. Sara Corbett and Lucy Kaylin read a galley version of the manuscript and offered much insight and support, as did Terry McDonell, David Granger, and Tim Carvell. At ICM I would like to thank Kristyn Keene, Niki Castle, and Molly Rosenbaum for their constant help and goodwill; and John DeLaney for his legal expertise. I owe a giant wave of thanks to my editor, Bill Thomas, whose expert guidance is present on every page, and to his amazing associate Melissa Ann Danaczko.
During the five years I spent working on The Wave, one person was always there: my agent, Sloan Harris. His passion and vision for this project were ever-present, and there are no words to express my gratitude for that. On any path there are ups and downs and twists and the odd obstacle and, sometimes, a lip crashing down on your head. With great humor, Sloan helped me navigate all of them.
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY
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WEB SITES
Weather and Forecasts
Surfline: www.surfline.com
Stormsurf: www.stormsurf.com
Wavewatch III Climate Model: http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/wavewatch
Institutions and Organizations
Aon Benfield Hazard Research: www.abuhrc.org
Billabong XXL Competition: www.billabongxxl.com
Lloyds of London: www.lloyds.com
National Oceanography Center (Southampton): www.noc.soton.ac.uk
National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration: www.noaa.gov
United States Geological Survey: www.usgs.gov
Characters
Arabonis, Jean Pierre: www.osis.co.za
Clark, Jeff: www.jeffclarksurfboards.com
Doerner, Darrick: www.dd-sea.com
Gabeira, Maya: www.mayagabeira.com
Gerlach, Brad: www.bradgerlach.com
Hamilton, Laird: www.lairdhamilton.com
Harrington, Tony: www.harroart.com
; Hornbaker, Jeff: www.thirdeyeworld.com
Kalama, Dave: www.davidkalama.com
Lickle, Brett: www.surfball.net
Long, Greg: www.greglong.com
McNamara, Garrett: www.garrettmcnamara.com
Mel, Peter: www.petermel.com
Miller, Sonny: www.worldwavepictures.com
Mitchell, Jamie: www.jamie-mitchell.com
Prickett, Mike: www.prickettfilms.com
Shearer, Don: www.windwardaviationmaui.com
Sloane, Captain Nicholas: www.svitzer.com
Illustration Credits
INSERT
1 Tom Servais
2 Tom Servais
3 Tom Servais
4 Tom Servais
5 erikaeder.com
6 erikaeder.com. Inset: Image courtesy of NASA/JPL-Caltech AIRS Project
7 N. Penny Holliday
8 N. Penny Holliday
9 National Oceanography Centre
10 Arnulf Husmo/Getty Images
11 Brian Ingpen
12 Tim McKenna/Courtesy of Surfer magazine
13 Tony Harrington
14 Susan Casey
15 Tom Servais
16 Dana Edmunds
17 Tom Servais
18 Courtesy of Tony Harrington
19 Courtesy of Tony Harrington
20 Courtesy of Tony Harrington
21 Robert Brown Photography.com
22 Robert Brown Photography.com
23 U.S. Geological Survey
24 SSPL/Getty Images
25 Bloomberg via Getty Images
26 The Granger Collection, New York
27 Karsten Petersen, www.global-mariner.com
28 D. J. Miller/U.S. Geological Survey
29 D. J. Miller/U.S. Geological Survey
30 D. J. Miller/U.S. Geological Survey
31 U.S. Army/U.S. Geological Survey
32 U.S. Geological Survey
33 Andrew Ingram / The Cape Times
