CONTENTS
Title Page
Acknowledgements
Introduction
one The Devil and his Serpent
two The Wet and Wilds
three Black Dogs and Strange Encounters
four Giants and Heroes
five Things that go Bump in the Lincolnshire Night
six Witchcraft and Cunning
seven Yellowbelly Sayings and Superstitions
eight A Lincolnshire Year
Bibliography
Notes
Copyright
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I extend my thanks to everyone who has helped and supported me during the writing of this book. I have met and talked to many interesting people along my journey and wish to name a few here.
Mrs Rose Cole, Caister, was especially welcoming and I would like to thank her for her kind hospitality and useful information.
I would like to thank the Boston Grammar School for their tour of the library and Beast Yard, especially Rowan Druce who was kind enough to show me around and supply me with interesting information, and also Paul Marsh, the head teacher, for allowing me to take photographs and use them in this publication.
I wish to thank Mr Arthur Franks for his help and wonderful collection of photographs and videos of the Haxey Hood game, which he kindly let me use in this book.
I am very grateful to the staff at Lincoln’s Museum of Lincolnshire Life, who gave me their time, and to Lincolnshire County Council who allowed me to photograph and publish the pictures of the witch artefacts they house at the museum.
Roger John Crisp deserves my thanks and a mention for the marvellous tour he conducted for me around the grounds of RAF Scampton. It was very informative and a lot of fun! Thank you also for allowing me to publish the photographs I took there.
The staff at Grimsby Central Library were very helpful and friendly, as were the staff at Lincoln Cathedral, especially Anne James, who helped me with dates and festivals. Kath Brown kindly sent me information concerning the Lincolnshire Stuff Ball, for which I was most grateful.
Thank you to Mrs Rogers from the Captain’s Table at Dogdyke for your stories and the gentleman from Beesby Cottages for your time and information.
Thank you also to the owner of the Abbey House at Swineshead for your directions and help, the gentleman at Horsington, the lady at Tealby who showed me where to find the Devil’s Chair, and the gentleman at Lower Burnham for his information about the well.
I would like to thank The History Press for allowing me to write for them and especially Beth Amphlett and Matilda Richards, who have patiently led me through the process.
Thank you to my brother James for his support and patience at being dragged round various historical sites. Also thank you to my friend Yann, for his continued encouragement, help and company along the way.
Most of all, thank you to Judy and Arthur O’Neill, without whom this book would never have been completed. Thank you for all your time, your proofreading, your ideas and input and, of course, your company through many trips around Lincolnshire. You are invaluable!
INTRODUCTION
When I was bound apprentice in famous Lincolnshire
Full well I served my master, for more than seven year,
Till I took up to poaching as you shall quickly hear,
Oh, ’tis my delight on a shiny night
In the season of the year.
As me and my companions were setting of a snare,
‘Twas then we spied the gamekeeper, for him we did not care,
For we can wrestle and fight, my boys, and jump o’er anywhere.
Oh, ’tis my delight on a shiny night
In the season of the year.
As me and my companions were setting four or five,
And taking on ’em up again, we caught a hare alive,
We took the hare alive, my boys, although the wood did steer.
Oh, ’tis my delight on a shiny night
In the season of the year.
I threw him on my shoulder and then we all trudged home,
We took him to a neighbour’s house and sold him for a crown,
We sold him for a crown, my boys, but I need not tell you where!
Oh, ‘tis my delight on a shiny night
In the season of the year.
Success to every gentleman that lives in Lincolnshire,
Success to every poacher that wants to sell a hare.
Bad luck to every gamekeeper that will not sell his deer.
Oh, ‘tis my delight on a shiny night
In the season of the year.1
You will not meet a Lincolnshire-born native who has never heard of this old folk song, ‘The Lincolnshire Poacher’. Dating from the 1700s or earlier, it has become akin to the National Anthem for Lincolnshire and is still sung and quoted often today. Having a wealth of countryside and open land, coupled with the poor wages labourers received, Lincolnshire was ripe for poaching, even when it was a crime punishable by death! Not quite the happy-go-lucky past time the song suggests but certainly a poignant reminder of days gone by.
Lincolnshire is a fascinating county, rich with history, folklore, character and peculiarities, aptly summed up by John Betjeman:
Lincolnshire is…singularly beautiful and…a separate country. I would like to see it with its own flag and needing passports to get in.2
One of the largest counties in England, Lincolnshire measures nearly 6,000 square kilometres. It is the county with the highest number of bordering counties, which include Leicestershire, Rutland, Cambridgeshire, Norfolk, South Yorkshire and Nottinghamshire. On the east, the North Sea runs its entire length and to the north it is bounded by the Humber Estuary.
Before 1974 it was divided into three regions: Holland, Lindsey and Kesteven, but after this date these three areas unified. The northern part, however, was given the title Humberside, but this was reversed in 1996 and the area became known as North Lincolnshire and North East Lincolnshire.
Lincolnshire has a reputation for remoteness and mysteriousness, for being somehow semi-detached from the rest of England and not quite in the swing of modern life, a place where old ways are preserved and old secrets kept.3
This book will give the reader a glimpse of these secrets, of the traditions of old and those that remain, of the tales of indigenous giants, battles with dragons and brushes with the Devil himself. We shall walk with witches, bogles, ghosts and the infamous Black Dog, and laugh along at the Yellowbelly humour and curiosities, for there is a veritable feast to gorge upon!
An enquiry after a person’s health is usually one of the opening gambits in a conversation: but have you noticed that Lincolnshire folk will rarely admit to being well? Usually their reply will be ‘I’m really no-matters’ (in indifferent health). On a good day they may answer ‘I’m fair to middlin” or ‘I’m meggerin’ oop now,’ by which they mean they’re getting better. ‘I’ve a bad keal an’ I keb soa much at night and feel reeal al-ovverish’ (a cough, short of breath and shivery); ‘I’ve hed a bad bout of mulleygrubs and can’t git shutten on it’ (stomach ache).4
Typical Lincolnshire countryside.
The Lincolnshire dialect is a wonderfully colourful tongue and, as with any others, once immersed into it, it is as easy to understand as your own.
Katherine Briggs relates as a moral the story of a young cock that crowed too loudly before his time and ended up being fed to the pigs. The fascinating thing about the story is that it is all told in dialect and is fantastic to read.
Yaller-legg’s cock’ril liv’d i’ runt yard wi’ owd white cock ‘at was his feyther, an’ red cock liv’d o’ steäm-hoose side o’ yard. An’ won daay, when owd cock’s sittin�
�� crawin’ upon crew-yard gaate, cock’ril gets up an’ begins to craw an’ all.
‘Cock-a-doodle-doo.’ Says owd cock. ‘Kick-a-ee-a-ee,’ says cock’ril: he couldn’t craw plain yit, he was ower yung.5
The study of folklore does not usually necessitate the study of dialect, but it can add another dimension to the meanings behind the stories for a deeper understanding. There are many books which list the numerous words, phrases and meanings of the varied Lincolnshire dialect, far too many to list here but as a taster and for interest I include a handful.
Aist: are you?
Albins: perhaps or unable
At-nowt: on no account
Batterfang: a heavy blow
Blash: nonsense
Bo’d: a bird
Bo’n: burn
Chelp: cheek, cheekiness
Dacker-down: slow-down, if someone was going too fast
Darkilings: twilight
Dossent: was to not dare to do something
Eadily: insufficiency
Fogo: a nasty smell
Frangy: lively
Fun: found
Gaain: near
Harr: a sea mist
Kelter: rubbish
Ivey-skivy: to create uproar
Jorum: a large amount
Larum: a worthless story
Mawps: a daft person
Nosker: large
Owd-hunks: a mean person
Pag: to carry another on your back
Quick-sticks: immediately
Raatherly: seldom
Scrudge: to squeeze
Slap: to spill something
Tiddy: small
Upskittle: to knock something over
Vaals: presents offered to servants
Wong: to low land
Wottle-days: working days
Yetten: eaten
Here lies Jimmy Lang
Kilt by Death’s stang,
They brake his boäns
Wi sticks an’ stoänes
His carcas they did mang
We many a batterfang.6
This wonderfully onomatopoeic tongue makes the language of the place come alive and fortunately for us, there are plenty of written samples. For instance, the Lincolnshire Life magazine gives examples of farmer’s dialect which illustrates some of these local words:
Lawks a massey me! Farming has changed since I was a bairn! Few folk these days ‘addle their keep’ as ‘higglers’ (men who keep horses and work them for hire), waggoners or garthmen (who look after and feed animals). ‘Addlings’, not ‘earnings’, were wages; ‘earnings’ or ‘hearings’ was rennet used for cheese making!7
The great poet Alfred Lord Tennyson was born in Lincolnshire, at Somersby, where his father was a rector in 1809. Of the many poems he wrote, here is an extract from one, ’Northern Farmer’, in the Lincolnshire dialect:
Dosn’t thou ‘ear my ‘erse’s legs, as they canters awaäy?
Proputty, proputty, proputty – that’s what I ‘ears ‘em saäy.
Proputty, proputty, proputty – Sam, thou’s an ass for thy paaïns:
Theer’s moor sense i’ one o’is legs nor in all thy braaïns.
Woä – theer’s a craw to pluck wi’ tha, Sam: yon’s parson’s ‘ouse –
Dosn’t thou knaw that a man mun be eäther a man or a mouse?
Time to think on it then; for thou’ll be twenty to weeäk.
Proputty, proputty – woä then woä – let ma ‘ear mysén speäk.’8
Statue of Alfred Lord Tennyson, housed in Lincoln Cathedral gardens.
Statue commemorating John Wesley, situated towards the top of Albion Hill, Epworth.
The content of money making, marriage, love and property is all the better for being read in dialect!
Tennyson is not the only notable to claim a Lincolnshire heritage. John Whitgift, the Archbishop of Canterbury from 1583 to 1604, was born in Grimsby and William Byrd, the composer, was born in Lincoln in 1543. Everyone has heard that Margaret Thatcher’s humble origins stem from an upbringing in Grantham, and the poet Elizabeth Jennings (1926-2001) was born in Boston. King Henry IV was born at Bolingbroke Castle and was often known by the name Henry Bolingbroke.
Other famous names include Hereward the Wake, William Cecil, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir John Franklin, Sir Joseph Banks, Chad Varah, John Wesley, William Stukeley, Jennifer Saunders, Neil McCarthy – just to name a few.
The Lincolnshire Poacher magazine9 quotes a source who talks of a postcard written by the young Winston Churchill in August 1887. He was staying on holiday with his nanny in a boarding house in Skegness. The postcard was addressed to his mother and the lad was asking her for half a crown, but apparently on the reverse the nanny had written a note to the effect that he should not be sent any money as he had already wasted a good deal! This was not the last time Churchill visited Lincolnshire; he was invited many times to speak at different places around the county in the early 1900s, and sources say he had quite an affection for the place.
Lincolnshire even has two claims on King Arthur, according to Marc Alexander. One states that it was at Lincoln that King Arthur came ‘secretly upon Tholdric and fell silently upon the Saxons’.10 The second tells that King Arthur fought a battle in the district of Lindsey, then known as Linnius.
The Lincolnshire Magazine from the 1930s propounds this idea, mentioning a great soldier in Digby, although whether it is actually King Arthur or another is debatable:
At Chestnut Tree Corner, under the little triangle of green grass where the footpath goes off to the station, a great soldier lies buried with all his men. One day a man will come along who can see a silver tree growing there, and he will see this tree as he stands on Canwick Hill, a point twelve miles distant…when he gets to Chestnut Tree Corner he will find steps going down into the ground, which he will descend and there he will find this great soldier and his men asleep. He will awaken them and they will rise all up again and fight for the King at a time when they are sorely needed.11
This story is prevalent all across Britain, most counties claiming the sleeping warriors, such as Craig y Dinas, Glamorgan or Alderly Edge, Cheshire or under Richmond Castle in Yorkshire, but to name a few, and so it is nice to see it included in Lincolnshire’s folklore.
Having been invaded and inhabited by various races throughout the centuries, several of Germanic stock, many of the placenames of Lincolnshire have traceable routes. Professor Stenton12 studied particularly those of Danish origin. He states that the characteristic type of Danish name in Lincolnshire ends in ‘by’, an ancient word meaning ‘settlement’ or ‘village’ which, he explains, is why we have the term ‘bye-law’, originally referring to the local regulation of a village community. He then goes on to say that uncomplimentary nicknames are characteristic in Lincolnshire, for example: Scamblesby, ‘the village of the shameless one’; Scawby, ‘the village of the bald man’; Brocklesby, ‘the village of the man without trousers’; Sloothby, ‘the village of the good-for-nothing rascal’. Not all are uncomplimentary however, such as Somerby, ‘the village of a man who has taken part in a summer army’.
Those places ending in ‘thorpe’, such as Skellingthorpe, referred to a settlement smaller than the nearby village; ‘ing’ denoted low wet grass or pastures; ‘with’ meant a wood; ‘langworth’ was long ford; ‘worth’ referred to a small enclosure. Some examples of Anglo-Saxon endings to place names include ‘stead’, meaning place; ‘staple’, denoting a market; and ‘ley’ a meadow.
Lincoln Cathedral.
Many places were named after certain people or families such as Hagworthingham, which is said to have been the home of the descendents of Hacberd. Similarly Grainthorpe was believed to have been the village of a man named Geirmundr.
The study of place names is a complete project on its own, so will not be delved into further in this book, but it is a vast and fascinating subject to follow for those who are interested. It gives an insight into the history of our land, the peoples who dwelt there, the
type of landscape which surrounded them and what importance they placed upon it. To try and view the land as it was in their times gives us a glimpse of what life was like for them and we begin to see how some of the folklore and legends originated.
Traditionally the capital of Lincolnshire, Lincoln, has a population of approximately 81,000 people. It was originally named Lindon, meaning ‘the pool’, as it was a settlement built by a deep pool along the River Witham. Later the Romans re-named it Lindum colonia, ‘Roman colony’, which eventually turned into what we now know as Lincoln. The city is teeming with history. One just has to walk down the main street to see how many interesting old buildings are left, without even mentioning the castle or the cathedral. The third largest in the country, the cathedral towers over the city, dominating the skyline. Legends abound around this colossal structure and ghost stories and folklore of the city are plentiful.
The county had a reputation for its wetlands and fens, as illustrated in this little ditty Mrs Gutch recorded for us for the early 1800s:
Cheshire for men,
Berkshire for dogs,
Bedfordshire for naked flesh,
And Lincolnshire for bogs.13
There is so much more, however, than the legendary boggy landscape. Described perfectly in Brewer’s Britain and Ireland, Lincolnshire is:
…for the most part flat, and much of the south is taken up with the Fens, but it does manage to raise itself at least on to an elbow in two places, the Lincolnshire Edge (known locally as ‘the Heights’ or ‘the Cliff’), a limestone escarpment running east to west on which the city of Lincoln is situated, and the Lincolnshire Wolds, a range of chalk hills running northeast-southwest in the eastern part of the county.14
And according to Jack Yates and Henry Thorold:
The long drainage ditches and narrow roads so characteristic of Lincolnshire.
The landscape is of strongly contrasted kinds – one long and level with two-thirds of every eyeful sky. Wide and splendid cloudscapes and a great expanse of stars at night…The other sort of scenery is hilly, the rolling country of the Wolds, which seem very high by contrast but never rise more than 550 feet and are like the Downs, with beech plantations on their slopes and villages in their hollows and at their feet.15
Folklore of Lincolnshire Page 1
