by Bond, Ruskin
My friend McNulty lived on the outskirts of Saharanpur, where he had some land and a large mango grove. It was good country for mangoes. Saharanpur was then a sleepy little town a few miles from the foothills, and my friend’s home was an old Rohilla fortress which he had converted into a residence.
It was evening when I rode up to his house. He was glad to see me, for he was lonely on his estate. His wife, tired of their isolated existence had packed up and gone back to England the year before. McNulty was helping the Botanical Survey with its collection of plants from Nepal and the Indian foothills.
As dusk descended over the mango trees, and the flying-foxes began their nocturnal journeys to and fro, we sat out on his lawn and drank the local punch. I told him what had happened, and he said, ‘The Army was never for you, my boy. You should be in the mountains, collecting plants for English gardens. Of course you’ll have to lie low for a while. And you can’t be seen in Saharanpur. This is the last outpost of the Empire, my boy. Go into the hills for some time, that’s my advice to you. There’s a hill raja who owes the British a favour or two, but he won’t bother you. He can’t really. There are no roads. It’s a wonder he manages to collect any taxes. I shall lend you a few rupees. They’ll go a long way. People are poor in these hills. But they are usually peacable, and they don’t ask too many questions.’
I slept under the stars, on the ramparts of that strange old fort, and got up at the crack of dawn, when my good friend McNulty brought me a cup of sweet-scented Kashmiri tea.
We rode out together, reaching the foothills even as the sun drew an open wound across the sky. We forded a river on our horses. Then McNulty said, ‘Well, this is where you take the high road and I take the low road. You’ll be better off on foot now. This thoroughbred will only come to grief on these steep hillsides. I’ll look after it for you.’
We shook hands, and he rode back across the river. The volume of water had abated since the end of the rains, and the two horses were never more than knee-deep in the water. And here the river opened out and lost some of its velocity. Higher up in the mountains the river would be an altogether different sort of creature.
Even though I had now been left entirely on my own, I began to grow in confidence. The greater freedom of the mountains lay ahead of me. Thinly populated, with scattered villages seldom visited by anyone from the plains, these sweeping ranges would, I felt sure, offer me refuge and shelter. Once across the valley I would be outside British territory. I wasn’t quite sure whose territory I would be in, but where there are no roads it doesn’t matter so much.
A path rose from the banks of the river and I followed it upstream until the river was far below and the sky suddenly much nearer and clearer. There were hardly any trees on this particular range, just clumps of cacti, and as the sun rose higher, I began to look for shade. I found it near a spring, a mere trickle that came from the hillside near a stunted medlar tree.
I drank from the spring. The water was sweet and cool. This was better than the turgid waters of Meerut: I emptied my water-bottle (given to me by McNulty) and refilled it from the spring. Then I sat down to make an inventory of my belongings—all given or lent to me by my friend.
I had a .12-bore gun and a belt full of cartridges; some with ball and some with small shot. I could hunt for my food if need be. McNulty had also provided me with a variety of useful odds and ends—a blanket, a clasp-knife, a tin plate, a tin cup, a fork, a spoon, a towel; and, not least, a list of plants he wanted me to collect, described in some detail. The fork and spoon seemed a little superfluous at the time. I did not expect to find a dining-table laid out for me in the mountains. Nor would I need them for the sugar-coated Huntley and Palmer biscuits that I found in a tin, or for the bag of dried figs that I found at the bottom of the haversack.
The mountains had always beckoned to me, drawn me towards them. Well, they lay before me now, the whole vast expanse of the Himalayas, and to save my skin I had no alternative but to go as far as possible into their remotest regions. A plant-hunter I would be!
As I chewed a fig and contemplated a small white butterfly resting on the shining barrel of my gun, I heard the distant clatter of falling rocks. Looking down, I saw three horsemen on the other side of the river, trying to ride up a steep incline. They wore the uniforms of my regiment. And they had, apparently, decided to pursue me as far as they could, probably to take me back for a court-martial if they could take me alive.
I loaded my gun with two cartridges of small shot, and fired a warning shot across the river.
Some of the shot must have struck someone, or something, because a horse neighed and reared, and there was a shout, either of pain or of anger. Then someone called up the ravine, and his words carried quite distinctly in the clear air, on a breeze that was no more than a zephyr.
‘You’re a traitor, Wilson! Come back and take your medicine like a man!’
A rifle shot rang out, and a bullet snapped a branch off the medlar free. Perhaps I had been too considerate in using small shot on them!
Fortunately an outcrop of rock prevented them from getting a clear view of me. Creeping closer to the rocks, and taking more careful aim, I fired my second cartridge. The shot must have sprayed someone’s arm, for I heard the sound of a rifle clattering to the ground. A volley of curses, followed by a volley of wild shooting, disturbed the peace of the hillside. Ravens and hawks flew up in alarm and disgust. Down in the gully the men were at a disadvantage, and they knew it. As the ground grew steeper, a man on foot would always have an advantage over a man on horseback.
The expedition retreated. They were unfamiliar with the terrain and once across the river they would be on someone else’s territory. One horseman even shook his fist in my direction! Shades of the playing fields of Eton. They disappeared round a bend of the river and I was left alone on the hillside. The hawks and ravens returned to their resting-places. A horny-backed lizard stared balefully at me from a rock. I ate a fig and a biscuit, and decided it would be better to move further into the hills before taking a long rest.*
TIME STOPS AT SHAMLI
Time Stops At Shamli
The Dehra Express usually drew into Shamli at about five o’clock in the morning, at which time the station would be dimly lit and the jungle across the tracks would just be visible in the faint light of dawn. Shamli is a small station at the foot of the Siwalik hills, and the Siwaliks lie at the foot of the Himalayas, which in turn lie at the feet of God.
The station, I remember, had only one platform, an office for the station-master, and a waiting-room. The platform boasted a tea-stall, a fruit vendor, and a few stray dogs; not much else was required, because the train stopped at Shamli for only five minutes before rushing on into the forests.
Why it stopped at Shamli, I never could tell. Nobody got off the train and nobody got in. There were never any coolies on the platform. But the train would stand there a full five minutes, and the guard would blow his whistle, and presently Shamli would be left behind and forgotten. . . . until I passed that way again.
I was paying my relations in Saharanpur an annual visit, when the night train stopped at Shamli. I was thirty-six at the time, and still single.
On this particular journey, the train came into Shamli just as I awoke from a restless sleep. The third class compartment was crowded beyond capacity, and I had been sleeping in an upright position, with my back to the lavatory door. Now someone was trying to get into the lavatory. He was obviously hard pressed for time.
‘I’m sorry, brother,’ I said, moving as much as I could do to one side.
He stumbled into the closet without bothering to close the door.
‘Where are we now?’ I asked the man sitting beside me. He was smoking a strong aromatic bidi.
‘Shamli station,’ he said, rubbing the palm of a large calloused hand over the frosted glass of the window.
I let the window down and stuck my head out. There was a cool breeze blowing down the platform, a breeze that
whispered of autumn in the hills. As usual there was no activity, except for the fruit-vendor walking up and down the length of the train with his basket of mangoes balanced on his head. At the tea-stall, a kettle was streaming, but there was no one to mind it. I rested my forehead on the window-ledge, and let the breeze play on my temples. I had been feeling sick and giddy but there was a wild sweetness in the wind that I found soothing.
‘Yes,’ I said to myself, ‘I wonder what happens in Shamli, behind the station walls.’
My fellow passenger offered me a beedi. He was a farmer, I think, on his way to Dehra. He had a long, untidy, sad moustache.
We had been more than five minutes at the station, I looked up and down the platform, but nobody was getting on or off the train. Presently the guard came walking past our compartment.
‘What’s the delay?’ I asked him.
‘Some obstruction further down the line,’ he said.
‘Will we be here long?’
‘I don’t know what the trouble is. About half-an-hour, at the least.’
My neighbour shrugged, and, throwing the remains of his beedi out of the window, closed his eyes and immediately fell asleep. I moved restlessly in my seat, and then the man came out of the lavatory, not so urgently now, and with obvious peace of mind. I closed the door for him.
I stood up and stretched; and this stretching of my limbs seemed to set in motion a stretching of the mind, and I found myself thinking: ‘I am in no hurry to get to Saharanpur, and I have always wanted to see Shamli, behind the station walls. If I get down now, I can spend the day here, it will be better than sitting in this train for another hour. Then in the evening I can catch the next train home.’
In those days I never had the patience to wait for second thoughts, and so I began pulling my small suitcase out from under the seat.
The farmer woke up and asked, ‘What are you doing, brother?’
‘I’m getting out,’ I said.
He went to sleep again.
It would have taken at least fifteen minutes to reach the door, as people and their belongings cluttered up the passage; so I let my suitcase down from the window and followed it onto the platform.
There was no one to collect my ticket at the barrier, because there was obviously no point in keeping a man there to collect tickets from passengers who never came; and anyway, I had a through-ticket to my destination, which I would need in the evening.
I went out of the station and came to Shamli.
*
Outside the station there was a neem tree, and under it stood a tonga. The tonga-pony was nibbling at the grass at the foot of the tree. The youth in the front seat was the only human in sight; there were no signs of inhabitants or habitation. I approached the tonga, and the youth stared at me as though he couldn’t believe his eyes.
‘Where is Shamli?’ I asked.
‘Why, friend, this is Shamli,’ he said.
I looked around again, but couldn’t see any signs of life. A dusty road led past the station and disappeared in the forest.
‘Does anyone live here?’ I asked.
‘I live here,’ he said, with an engaging smile. He looked an amiable, happy-go-lucky fellow. He wore a cotton tunic and dirty white pyjamas.
‘Where?’ I asked.
‘In my tonga, of course,’ he said. ‘I have had this pony five years now. I carry supplies to the hotel. But today the manager has not come to collect them. You are going to the hotel? I will take you.’
‘Oh, so there’s a hotel?’
‘Well, friend, it is called that. And there are a few houses too, and some shops, but they are all about a mile from the station. If they were not a mile from here, I would be out of business.’
I felt relieved, but I still had the feeling of having walked into a town consisting of one station, one pony and one man.
‘You can take me,’ I said. ‘I’m staying till this evening.’
He heaved my suitcase into the seat beside him and I climbed in at the back. He flicked the reins and slapped his pony on the buttocks, and, with a roll and a lurch, the buggy moved off down the dusty forest road.
‘What brings you here?’ asked the youth.
‘Nothing,’ I said. ‘The train was delayed, I was feeling bored, and so I got off.’
He did not believe that; but he didn’t question me further. The sun was reaching up over the forest, but the road lay in the shadow of tall trees, eucalyptus, mango and neem.
‘Not many people stay in the hotel,’ he said. ‘So it is cheap, you will get a room for five rupees.’
‘Who is the manager?’
‘Mr Satish Dayal. It is his father’s property. Satish Dayal could not pass his exams or get a job, so his father sent him here to look after the hotel.’
The jungle thinned out, and we passed a temple, a mosque, a few small shops. There was a strong smell of burnt sugar in the air, and in the distance I saw a factory chimney: that, then, was the reason for Shamli’s existence. We passed a bullock-cart laden with sugar cane. The road went through fields of cane and maize, and then, just as we were about to re-enter the jungle, the youth pulled his horse to a side road and the hotel came in sight.
It was a small white bungalow, with a garden in the front, banana trees at the sides, and an orchard of guava trees at the back. We came jingling up to the front veranda. Nobody appeared, nor was there any sign of life on the premises.
‘They are all asleep,’ said the youth.
I said, ‘I’ll sit in the veranda and wait.’ I got down from the tonga, and the youth dropped my case on the veranda steps. Then he stooped in front of me, smiling amiably, waiting to be paid.
‘Well, how much?’ I asked.
‘As a friend, only one rupee.’
‘That’s too much,’ I complained. ‘This is not Delhi.’
‘This is Shamli,’ he said. ‘I am the only tonga in Shamli. You may not pay me anything, if that is your wish. But then, I will not take you back to the station this evening, you will have to walk.’
I gave him the rupee. He had both charm and cunning, an effective combination.
‘Come in the evening at about six,’ I said.
‘I will come,’ he said, with an infectious smile, ‘Don’t worry.’ I waited till the tonga had gone round the bend in the road before walking up the veranda steps.
The doors of the house were closed, and there were no bells to ring. I didn’t have a watch, but I judged the time to be a little past six o’clock. The hotel didn’t look very impressive; the whitewash was coming off the walls, and the cane-chairs on the veranda were old and crooked. A stag’s head was mounted over the front door, but one of its glass eyes had fallen out; I had often heard hunters speak of how beautiful an animal looked before it died, but how could anyone with true love of the beautiful care for the stuffed head of an animal, grotesquely mounted, with no resemblance to its living aspect?
I felt too restless to take any of the chairs. I began pacing up and down the veranda, wondering if I should start banging on the doors. Perhaps the hotel was deserted; perhaps the tonga-driver had played a trick on me. I began to regret my impulsiveness in leaving the train. When ‘I saw the manager I would have to invent a reason for coming to his hotel. I was good at inventing reasons. I would tell him that a friend of mine had stayed here some years ago, and that I was trying to trace him. I decided that my friend would have to be a little eccentric (having chosen Shamli to live in), that he had become a recluse, shutting himself off from the world; his parents—no, his sister—for his parents would be dead—had asked me to find him if I could; and, as he had last been heard of in Shamli, I had taken the opportunity to enquire after him. His name would be Major Roberts, retired.
I heard a tap running at the side of the building, and walking around, found a young man bathing at the tap. He was strong and well-built, and slapped himself on the body with great enthusiasm. He had not seen me approaching, and I waited until he had finished bathing and had begu
n to dry himself.
‘Hullo,’ I said.
He turned at the sound of my voice, and looked at me for a few moments with a puzzled expression. He had a round, cheerful face and crisp black hair. He smiled slowly, but it was a more genuine smile than the tonga-driver’s. So far I had met two people in Shamli, and they were both smilers; that should have cheered me, but it didn’t. ‘You have come to stay?’ he asked, in a slow easygoing voice.
‘Just for the day,’ I said. ‘You work here?’
‘Yes, my name is Daya Ram. The manager is asleep just now, but I will find a room for you.’
He pulled on his vest and pyjamas, and accompanied me back to the veranda. Here he picked up my suitcase and, unlocking a side door, led me into the house. We went down a passage way; then Daya Ram stopped at the door on the right, pushed it open, and took me into a small, sunny room that had a window looking out on the orchard. There was a bed, a desk, a couple of cane-chairs, and a frayed and faded red carpet.
‘Is it all right?’ said Daya Ram.
‘Perfectly all right.’
They have breakfast at eight o’clock. But if you are hungry, I will make something for you now.’
‘No, it’s all right. Are you the cook too?’
‘I do everything here.’
‘Do you like it?’
‘No,’ he said, and then added, in a sudden burst of confidence, ‘there are no women for a man like me.’
‘Why don’t you leave, then?’
‘I will,’ he said, with a doubtful look on his face. ‘I will leave—’
After he had gone I shut the door and went into the bathroom to bathe. The cold water refreshed me and made me feel one with the world. After I had dried myself, I sat on the bed, in front of the open window. A cool breeze, smelling of rain, came through the window and played over my body. I thought I saw a movement among the trees.
