by Lina Beard
There will be no difficulty in mounting the pictures; simply paste them on the card-board with good flour-paste, and press under a heavy weight, keeping them perfectly neat and free from smears of paste on the edges. When two or more are mounted at the same time, place clean pieces of blotting-paper between, pile one upon another, and put the heavy weight on top.
Such a scrap-book should be bound in a
Home-made Book-cover,
which is made in this way:
Take two pieces of heavy card-board a trifle larger than the book you wish to cover, make three holes near the edge of each (Fig. 320) and corresponding holes in the edges of the book, which must not be too thick—that is, contain too many leaves; pass narrow ribbons through these holes and tie in bow-knots, as in Fig. 321. If the leaves of the book are thin, more holes can be made in the back and the covers laced together with silk cord (Fig. 322).
Fig. 320.—One Side of Book-cover with Holes cut near the Edge.
Fig. 321.—Book-cover Tied with Ribbons.
Fig. 322.—Book-cover Laced together with Silk Cord.
These book-covers may be beautifully decorated by anyone who can paint in water-colors, and tinted card-board can also be used for them. They are pretty, and suitable as covers for manuscript poems or stories, or for a collection of autographs.
In making any kind of scrap-book it is very necessary that the paste used should be good. If the paste is poor, the pictures will peel off or the paste turn sour. The recipe given below we can recommend as an excellent one for
Flour-paste.
Mix one-half cup of flour with enough cold water to make a very thin batter, which must be smooth and free from lumps; put the batter on top of the stove—not next to the fire—in a tin sauce-pan, and stir continually until it boils; then remove from the stove, add three drops of oil of cloves, and pour the paste into a cup or tumbler. This will keep for a long time and will not become sour.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
A HEAP OF RUBBISH, AND WHAT TO DO WITH IT.
IN almost every house there is an attic, and in almost every attic may be found a room where trunks are stored, where broken toys and disabled furniture are put out of sight, and where all articles not worth selling or giving away gradually accumulate until this attic room contains, literally, a heap of rubbish. Entering one of these lumber-rooms not long ago, and glancing over the medley which comprised so much, from a tin can to a piece of broken bric-à-brac, the thought occurred to me that something might be done with it, some use be made of at least a few of the articles consigned to the place as utterly useless.
That was rather a thrifty thought. Do you not think so, girls? Then let us make the most of it and together venture back into that mysterious and somewhat dusty chamber, and see if there really is anything there worth the making over.
In imagination we will stand in our attic lumber-room and begin to look about us with eyes and mind open to perceive possibilities.
On one side of the room, leaning against the wall, we see what was once a handsome old-fashioned mirror, quite large and of heavy plate-glass. It’s poor dusty face, reflecting dimly its barren surroundings, is shattered in many pieces, and at first sight it seems hopeless to attempt to restore it to the plane of beauty or usefulness; but do not let us be hasty; we will examine it more closely. Yes, here is a piece of glass large enough to frame. Never mind its uneven shape and rough edges; we will work out that problem later. Now we must put it carefully aside and continue our investigations.
Here is a large tin can, which can be made into a lantern to hang in the hall, and this baking-powder can may be of some use, so we will take it also.
The tops of three cheese-boxes; something should be done with them. Perhaps they can be used for a table; put them with the other chosen things.
A croquet-ball! That will make a fine key-rack. This box of silks and ribbons we may need, and the large pasteboard-box will do for the foundation of our mirror frame.
We must have this piece of old brass chain this handful of large nails, the pasteboard roll which has been used for sending engravings through the mail, and that old broad-brimmed straw hat; also these three broomsticks and the piece of nice dark-gray hardware paper.
Now, seated in our own room, let us see what we can do with this rather unpromising array of objects spread around us. First we will try
The Mirror,
and must cast about us for the ways and means of framing it. The large pasteboard-box we have already decided will make a good foundation. After tearing off the sides, we will cut an even square from the bottom, which is smooth and unwarped.
Next laying the piece of mirror on the square of pasteboard we must cut, out of ordinary brown wrapping-paper, a square two inches larger all around than the pasteboard, make a hole in the centre as large as the shape of the mirror will allow, and paste it down on the mirror and paste-board (Fig. 323). Then, after clipping out the corners, we will turn the edges over on to the back of the pasteboard foundation and paste them down. Cutting four strips of the hardware paper, about two inches wide, we will fold them through the centre lengthwise and paste them around the glass, lapping them just a little over the edge of the other paper, the folded side being next to the glass (Fig. 324). This will form a bevel for our frame. From the same paper we will now cut a square, three inches larger on all sides than the foundation; then, exactly in the centre, mark a square half an inch larger all around than the square of mirror showing. In the centre of the square marked out we must insert our scissors, cut it like Fig. 325, and after clipping off the points, as indicated by the dotted lines L, M, O, N, turn back the four pieces at the dotted lines, P, Q, R, S, leaving an open square. Then placing it over the mirror so that the same width of bevelled edge shows on all sides of the mirror, we must paste it down. Clipping out the corners, as shown in diagram, we will bring the edges over and paste them down securely to the back of the frame. A piece of hardware paper, cut in a square one inch smaller than the frame, we will paste on the back to finish it off and hide the edges of the paper where they have been turned over (Fig. 326).
Fig. 323.—Brown Paper Pasted on Mirror and Pasteboard for Home-made Mirror-frame.
Fig. 324.—Bevel of Hardware Paper on Frame.
Fig. 325.—The Outside Covering for Mirror-frame.
Fig. 326.—Back of Frame with Tape Attached.
We must fasten on a piece of tape by which to hang the mirror, by pasting down the ends of the tape on the frame (letter T, Fig. 326), and pasting over each a strip of the hardware paper (letter U, Fig. 326). When the frame is quite dry we will paint a branch of dog-wood or some light-colored flower across it, and have as pretty a little mirror as anyone could wish for.
Home-made Mirror-frame.
The next thing to commence will be
The Table,
which you can make yourselves by following these directions:
The three cheese-box lids will answer nicely as shelves for a work- or bric-à-brac table, and the broomsticks, which are all the same length, will do for the legs.
Upon each broomstick mark the distances for placing the shelves, allowing six inches from each end of the stick for the top and bottom, and the exact centre between these points for the middle shelf. With a pocket-knife cut narrow grooves around each stick, one-half inch on either side of the points marked on them (Fig. 327). This will make six grooves on each stick. Now measure the box-lids to find their circumferences, and divide them into thirds, marking the distances on the rim to obtain the true position for the legs. At these points bore four holes with a gimlet, one inch apart, two above and two below (Fig. 328). Through one of the top holes pass a piece of pliable wire, place one of the broomsticks against the rim of the lid, pass the wire back through the other upper hole (Fig. 329), fit it into the upper groove of the stick, and draw it tight. Twice the wire must be put through the upper holes and around the stick in the top groove; then, bringing it down on the inside of the lid, you must put it
twice through the lower holes and around the stick in the lower groove; then twist the ends and tuck them under the wire on the inside of the lid (Fig. 330). In this way each leg will have to be fastened to each shelf. When the table is all put together paint it black, and, as soon as it is dry, tie a bright ribbon on one of the sticks at the top, and a charming little bric-à-brac table will be the result of your labor.
Fig. 327.--Narrow Grooves Cut around Broomstick for Table-leg.
Fig. 328.—Holes Bored in a Boxlid Used as a Table-shelf.
Fig. 329.—Manner of Fastening a Shelf to Table-leg.
Fig. 330.—Tableshelf and Leg Fastened securely together by Wire.
Bric-a-brac Table.
You can make a very pretty
Lantern
of the old tin can; but first you must have some tools to work with; not many, only a piece of wood, rounded on one side to fit into the can, a hatchet or heavy hammer, and a few wrought iron nails. If the piece of wood is not large enough to fit the can, another stick can be put in to hold the first one firmly against the can. That being arranged, you must decide upon some kind of a pattern to be made by the holes, and indicate it on the can with a small paint-brush and paint or ink; then, laying the can on its side, the rounded piece of wood being at the top, with one of the wrought iron nails puncture the holes where you have indicated the pattern. With the hammer drive the nail through the tin into the wood; then draw it out, make another hole, and so on until all the holes you wish are driven through that part of the can held in place by the rounded piece of wood.
This wood, you see, keeps the can from bending when the nail is being driven through. In moving the wood as the work progresses, you must always keep it under that part of the can being punctured. To make the large hole, you will have to put a number of the small holes close together, and then drive the nail through the partitions, cutting them away. The pattern being completed, puncture three holes, close to the top of the can, at equal distances apart. These are for the chains to pass through, by which to suspend the lantern. In the cover of the baking-powder can make three holes at equal distances; then divide the chain, which is about one yard and a quarter long, into three equal lengths, separating the pieces by prying open the links. Put an end of each piece through the holes made for them at the top of the can, and fasten them by hooking the open links through the links of the chain a little farther up, and hammering them together again.
Now pass the ends of the chains through the holes made in the lid of the baking-powder can, and, bringing the ends together, fasten them by joining the links.
Fig. 331. Fig. 332.—Stand in Lantern, with Nails for Holding Candle.
Paint the lantern, chain and all, black, and while it is drying make a stand for the candle which is to furnish the light. A square piece of thin board, just large enough to fit into the can without touching the sides will do for the stand. Drive four small nails in the centre to hold the candle (Fig. 331).
Make handles for lifting the stand in and out of the lantern, by bending two pieces of wire like Fig. 331, and fastening them to the board with staple tacks (Fig. 332).
When the paint on the lantern is dry, paste red tissue-paper all around the inside to give a cheerful red glow to the light, which will shine through it. If you would like it to resemble a jewelled lantern, paste different colored papers over the large holes and leave the small ones open. An S hook passed through the loop made by the three chains will serve to connect them to the chain which should suspend the lantern from the ceiling.
Lantern.
A Music-Roll
can be made of the pasteboard roll.
Cut a round piece of pasteboard just the size to fit into one end of the roll; then cut out another round piece, this time of paper, one inch larger than that made of pasteboard. Clip the edges (Fig. 333) and paste it over the end of the roll which is filled in with the round of pasteboard (Fig. 334).
Fig. 333.—Paper Covering for End of Music-roll.
Fig. 334.—Paper Pasted over End of Music-roll.
Among the scraps of silk and ribbons you will, perhaps, find a good-sized piece of dark-green or brown silk; use this for the case, which must cover the roll neatly. To make the case fit the end of the roll you have just filled up, mark on a piece of the silk a circle the size of that end of the roll. This can be done by standing the roll on the silk, and running a pencil around the edge. When cutting out the silk leave a margin of a quarter of an inch on the outside of the pencil-mark for the seam. Cut the silk for covering the roll three inches longer than the roll, and wide enough to allow for a quarter of an inch seam. Sew up the long seam, and then sew the round of silk into the end of the case. Hem the other end of the case, and run in a narrow ribbon about an inch from the edge. This is for a draw-string.
Music-roll.
When the roll is fitted snugly in its case, tie a ribbon, matching it in color, around the roll, making a loop to form the handle. Fasten the ribbon by taking a few stitches under the bows, catching them on to the silk.
The old straw hat can be transformed into a dainty
Work-Basket.
It is stiff and harsh at present, but pour boiling water over it and the straw will become soft and pliable, and can be bent into any shape you like. When dry, it will be again stiff, and will retain the form you have given it. After scalding the hat bend the brim in toward the centre, in four different places, at equal distances apart. This will make a fluted basket. You must tie it in shape (Fig. 335) and leave until perfectly dry; then bronze the basket, line it with silesia, and sew silk or satin around the top to form a bag. Run a draw-string of narrow ribbon near the top of the bag, and the pretty little work-basket is finished.
Fig. 335.—Straw Hat Tied in Shape for a Work-basket.
Work-basket.
The croquet ball you can make into a
Key and Button-Hook Rack.
First you must gild it, and then around the middle of the ball, at regular intervals, insert small brass hooks. A yellow ribbon and bow, tacked on the top with small tacks, will serve to suspend it by, and completes the rack.
With the gilt left from gilding the ball, and a piece of bright ribbon you can make a
Key Rack.
Paper-Weight.
of six of the large nails. Gild each nail separately, let them dry, and then tie them securely together with a piece of ribbon.
Paper-weight.
All the articles brought from the attic have now been turned to some use, but there are many other things to be found there which we have not space to mention, and which with little trouble can be so transformed that no one would ever suppose they were taken originally from a heap of rubbish.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
HOW TO MAKE ATTRACTIVE BOOTHS AT A FAIR—A NEW KIND OF GRAB-BAG.
DECIDING to have our fair unlike those which have preceded it, we must do away with monotony and introduce not only variety, but originality as well. New ideas, something different from that which has served us heretofore, is what we strive for. Novelties are always attractive, let them be decorative also, and help to make the room or hall as inviting as possible.
The Tables
being the most important item, we will give them our first attention. Have each table or booth canopied in a style differing from all others, and make the canopy extend up as high as practicable, in order to avoid the flat, blank appearance so common in small fairs. If tables are arranged in this fashion, they will go far toward decorating the hall. Fig. 336 shows one style in which a framework for the roof or covering may be constructed. At the four corners of the table, where the top projects over the sides, fit in blocks of wood according to Fig. 337; the dotted lines represent the block. Nail the wood fast to the table, so that the uprights may stand perfectly straight. Use laths or similar sticks for the four uprights, and screw or nail them at the corners of the table according to Fig. 336; then with small screws fasten a stick across the top of the laths at each side, and at the top o
f the sticks on the front of the table tie the two ends of a barrel-hoop to form the arch; also attach another hoop at the back to the other two uprights, and connect the top centre of each by a wire running across. The hoops are fastened to the laths by binding the ends of the hoops to the ends of the laths with strong twine, or wire, wound around in notches which have previously been cut in the ends of both sticks and hoops. Should the barrel-hoops be too short for the arch, take children’s large-sized toy wooden hoops, and fasten them up in the same manner. Fig. 338 is another way to arrange the framework. The four upright sticks are attached to the table as described in Fig. 336; then in the top of each is driven a very large-sized tack, and a strong flexible wire is stretched from lath to lath and wound around each tack, thus connecting the four uprights together.* Flags, shawls, drapery curtains, sheets, and inexpensive cheese-cloth make good canopies; undressed cambric and canton flannel in desirable colors drape nicely, and can also be used for the purpose. Where you wish to produce light, airy effects, tarlatan, in one or more colors, will be found useful; again, let some of the tables have only a suggestion of a roof, made by ornamenting the framework with flowers, or whatever is most suitable, according to the style of table and the place it is to occupy.
