• How do the brakes sound? Do they make any grinding or squealing noises? Determine the cause of the noise before you purchase the car.
If the brake pads, rotors, or shoes are not new or like new, have the seller replace them before you buy the car or deduct the price of the service. Don’t buy a car that shakes or vibrates when you are braking, or feels like it has any braking issues of any kind. Have the seller get the car fixed and test-drive it again. Brakes are the number one safety feature on a car.
Electrical System
• Do all the exterior and interior lights work? Don’t forget the reverse, brake, and turn signal lights in the back.
• When you turn the key in the ignition to the on position without starting the car, does the check-engine light illuminate on the dashboard? If this light does not illuminate, the bulb has been removed or is blown out.
• When you turn on the engine, does the check-engine light stay on? If so, you may have problems.
• Are any other dashboard lights illuminated when they shouldn’t be? See the dashboard chapter (page 24) if you need a refresher on what these are.
Have the seller replace any blown-out lights or fix any lighting issues. Do not buy a car from someone who tries to sell it with the check-engine lightbulb removed or blown out—this screams Scam! Do not buy a car where the check-engine or any other red dashboard light (see dash chapter) is illuminated unless you know what caused the failure and how much it will cost to fix. Deduct the repair from the price of the car or have the seller get the car fixed and confirm the repair.
Steering
• Do you feel unusual looseness or tightness in the steering wheel? These could be signs of a power steering issue.
• Does the car drift or pull to one side while driving? That’s usually a sign that the wheels need to be realigned.
• Do you hear any grinding noises while turning? These could be indications that a steering part has failed.
Do not buy a car with steering issues! Steering repairs can get very expensive. Have the seller get the car fixed and the wheels aligned (and ask to be shown the receipts), then test-drive it again before taking the plunge.
Suspension
• Do you hear noises while you are driving or turning on bumpy roads? Thumps, creaks, and humming noises on less-than-smooth road conditions are indications that a suspension part has failed.
Do not buy a car with suspension issues unless you know what caused the failure and how much it will cost to fix. And don’t forget the realignment if it is necessary. Negotiate with the seller to deduct the cost of the repair from the price of the car.
Tires
• Are all four tires new or fairly new? It would be nice for all four tires to match brands, and on an AWD vehicle, it’s necessary. If the tires are new but the brands don’t match, you ideally want to have two of the same brand on the front wheels and two of the same brand on the back.
• Are the spare tire and tools to change a spare present and in good condition? Have the seller include a spare tire and tools or replace the bad items.
Do not buy a car with old tires, or with a crazy mismatched assortment of tires. On the other hand, it’s more important to match tire tread thickness than to match brand. Deduct the price of replacing the necessary tires including the spare (if applicable) from the price of the car.
Transmission
• While going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse, does the transmission shift hard?
• Does the rear of an RWD, 4WD, or AWD vehicle make noise when driving or reversing?
• Does the car shift hard while automatically shifting gears?
• Does the car slip while shifting gears?
Do not buy a car with any of these transmission problems!
Engine
• Has the car had a recent tune-up? If the car is within 5,000 miles of a scheduled tune-up, you will need to get one soon.
• If the car’s mileage is at or over 100,000 miles, has the timing belt been replaced?
• How does the car sound and smell while in drive? Any loud exhaust noises, tapping in the engine, or burned-rubber or sweet-smelling odors are signs of issues with the engine and/or exhaust.
Do not buy a car whose timing belt hasn’t been replaced unless you are prepared to pay at least $700 for the replacement. Deduct the tune-up and/or repair from the price of the car or have the seller fix it and confirm the repair.
Under the Hood
• Is the battery new? All used cars should come with new batteries. If you purchase a car with a battery that is two years or older, count on replacing it immediately.
• Have the serpentine belt or belts been replaced? All belts should be new, with no cracks.
• Do there appear to be any leaks under the hood? Find out what’s causing them and the cost of repair.
• Check the oil dipstick. The oil should be fresh and new, and the dipstick should read full. No exceptions.
• When starting or driving the car, do you hear any high-pitched chirping noises? A serpentine belt or pulley may need to be changed.
• Is the engine air filter new or like new?
• Are the essential fluid reservoirs under the hood full with new or like new fluids? Check the fluids yourself. See the DIY section on page 172 for instructions on how.
Do not buy a car whose engine oil is riddled with black specks. That’s an indication that the previous owner did not keep up with oil changes and that the engine is now more prone to leaks and performance problems. If any fluids are low, find out why. If any fluids are dirty, they’ll need a fluid flush. Deduct the price of the repairs and maintenance from the price of the car or have the seller service the car and confirm the service.
Miscellaneous
• Are the windshield wipers working and new or like new?
• Is the size of the car a good fit for you? Can you adjust the seat so that you’ll be comfortable during a long drive?
• How’s the visibility? Do you like the height of the car and the seat? Some drivers prefer to sit low, others like to sit high.
That’s a long checklist, #shecanics. If you want a little assist, you can plop down thirty to fifty bucks and test-drive the used car right on over to your PCT. He or she will check all of the above and then some, and can give you a price on any repairs needed. Best of all, your PCT can give you an unbiased opinion on whether you should buy the car and if the price is fair.
Smarter Car Purchasing in Eight Easy Steps
The following steps will help you build a lasting, trusting relationship with your ride, with a minimum toll on your wallet.
1. Find your salesperson/dealership. I’ve heard just as many horror stories from women about purchasing a car as I have about repairing one. Often women feel slighted by the salesperson/staff or regret their purchase after problems arise. Making the right choice on where to purchase your car is important. As we’ve just discussed, there are many places to buy cars these days, including the Internet.
2. Buy the right car. Think about what’s important to you in a car before you buy it. Besides your preferences in terms of brand, color, and style, you should be thinking about your driving habits, safety, and the true cost to own. If you are someone who isn’t good at budgeting for repairs, you may consider leasing a car or buying a car with a longer warranty and reasonably priced repairs. In other words, a Mercedes might not be the car for you. A Hyundai Elantra is an example of a car with a long warranty and reasonably priced repairs. If you can’t afford premium gas or synthetic oil changes, a luxury car is not your best choice. Even used. If you can’t afford to get the car fixed, you can’t afford the car.
Luxury models like a BMW or a Mercedes carry higher maintenance and repair price tags than mainstream makes like Toyota, Honda, or Ford. But the same holds true of premium and sportier brands like Cadillac or Mustang and for European cars, luxury or standard. Cars made anywhere else in the world (generally Japan, South Korea, or the United
States) tend to be engineered following the same principles, while European models follow a different blueprint and require a specialized mechanic. Because they have bigger engines and wheels and more complex transmission systems, SUVs come with a higher true cost to own than sedans. They also use more fluids and fuel, and tend to have additional parts and electrical accessories. Whatever the model, additional amenities such as fog lights, all-wheel drive, and a sunroof not only increase the price of the car but also drive up the cost of repairs. Each of these features represents additional parts, and additional points of failure.
3. Find your PCT. You should locate a PCT as soon as you purchase a car, ideally before. If you are buying a used car, you’ll want a PCT to look it over to make sure you are getting a fair price and not buying a lemon. (Getting a mechanic involved when purchasing a new vehicle would be overkill.) If you need help finding a PCT, see page 35. If you already have a PCT, find out what he or she thinks. PCTs have seen it all when it comes to cars, and they can tell you what to expect for repairs and maintenance and whether that particular make, model, or year is known for any specific problems. Rule of thumb: If you don’t have the time and energy to research a car’s cost of ownership, get advice from your PCT. Give him or her a list of the makes and/or qualities you’re looking for in a car, and he or she will come up with some great suggestions for reliable cars that don’t cost a ton to repair.
Where Did My Car Come From?
Interested in a certain brand, but not sure where it’s made? Check out this list.
Asian Automakers
Known for practicality
Japan
Honda - Honda Acura (also known for longevity)
Hyundai - Hyundai, Kia
Isuzu Mazda (recently owned by Ford, may have Ford parts)
Mitsubishi
Nissan - Nissan, Infiniti, Dalsun
South Korea
(longest warranties, practicality)
Suzuki
Toyota - Toyota, Lexus, Scion (also known for longevity)
American Automakers
Known for practicality, trucks, classic, and muscle cars
Fiat Chrysler (Italian-American) - Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram (American), Fiat, Alfa, Romeo, Ferrari (until recently), Maserati (Italian)
Ford - Ford, Lincoln (did make Mercury)
GM - Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, GMC (did make Saturn, Pontiac, Hummer)
European Automakers
Known for style and unique engineering. Higher repair & maintenance costs
Germany
BMW - BMW, Mini, Rolls-Royce
Daimler - Mercedes-Benz, Smart Car
VW - Audi, Bentley, Bugatti, Lamborghini, Porsche, Ducati
Britain/India
Jaguar Land Rover
Sweden
Saab
Volvo
4. Know your maintenance schedule. See page 22 for a breakdown of regular maintenance tasks. Keeping on schedule with these will help you avoid costly repairs down the line.
5. Get your oil changed promptly when a change is due. This really falls under the previous point, but this regular checkup is so vital to the health of your car that I had to mention it again.
6. Don’t wait until the last minute to get repairs. If you can’t afford a repair, ask your PCT what you can do to make sure the car is still safe to drive until you can get the money together. But know that not all repairs can wait.
7. If your car has over 80,000 miles, put additional money aside for repairs or buy an extended warranty. Repairs will arise unexpectedly and can get pricey. Have an emergency fund containing at least 5 percent of the vehicle’s value. If the car is worth $10,000, that’s around $500. You may also consider buying an extended warranty if you do not budget money well for car repairs. We’ll talk more about warranties on the next page.
8. Don’t nickel-and-dime. You just spent $30,000 on a car, and now you’re trying to find the lowest price to get it maintained and fixed? That’s some shady treatment of your investment. Investing in quality maintenance from a trusted PCT is likely to save you money in the long run, so buy a cheaper car if you can’t afford the maintenance on yours.
What You Need to Know About Auto Warranties
An auto warranty is a promise, a contract that says the party from whom you’ve purchased your car will cover repairs and defects over the course of a certain amount of time or mileage. There are two types of car warranties—those offered by auto manufacturers like Ford or Toyota, and the aftermarket warranties provided by third parties not related to the auto manufacturers. Every car comes with a warranty guarantee from the auto manufacturer.
Warranties run out after a certain number of years or miles driven. If something breaks or needs repair beyond the warranty scope, you will have to pay out of pocket. That means if you have a warranty of five years or 60,000 miles and the transmission fails at five years, three months from the date of purchase or at 60,567 miles, you’re on your own. The average car owner drives 12,000 miles annually, so auto manufacturers and third-party warranty providers use this as the standard. After this warranty runs out, the driver has the option to purchase an extended warranty to cover the cost of future repairs.
Sounds like a great idea, right? Pay some money now, avoid expensive repairs later? But warranties are tricky if you don’t understand them. They aren’t always the one-size-fits-all answers they’re made out to be. Depending on the fine print, they may or may not cover “wear items,” parts like wheel bearings, which are guaranteed to wear over time—and in some cases a dealership could refuse to honor your warranty based on how you cared (or failed to care) for the car.
Neither aftermarket nor auto manufacturer warranties cover regular maintenance items like oil changes and brake pad replacements. Warranties also won’t cover breakdowns caused by accidents, acts of nature, lack of proper maintenance, contamination of fluids or fuels, collision, fire, theft, negligence, or abuse.
Let’s save you some frustration and misunderstood expectations down the line by learning more about exactly what warranties do mean in terms of repairs on your ride.
Warranties vs. Maintenance Packages
Do not confuse a warranty with a maintenance package from the dealership.
When you purchase a luxury car from a dealership, it will often include a three-year maintenance package. You will not need to pay for oil changes, brake pads, and so on over that period. On standard cars, dealerships tend to offer maintenance packages you can add on at purchase.
Make sure you understand what maintenance is and is not involved. Compare the cost of purchasing the three-year maintenance add-on and that of taking the car to your PCT over the next three years. It may not be cheaper to purchase the dealership’s maintenance package, especially if you finance the car and add the package to the purchase price. You will be paying interest on the add-on package.
Auto Manufacturer Warranties
Drivetrain/Powertrain Warranty. Your vehicle’s powertrain is very important to warrant, because it involves the most expensive parts of your car—the engine, main transmission, and anything that gives power to the wheels, like differentials. Most cars come with a manufacturer’s powertrain warranty of five years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first. If any powertrain parts fail before then, the manufacturer will cover the cost of the repair.
Basic “Bumper-to-Bumper” Warranty. Also called a comprehensive warranty, the bumper-to-bumper warranty covers the cost of repairs for almost every part on your car from the front bumper to the rear bumper, minus the powertrain. (The powertrain is covered by a separate warranty.) If any factory-installed parts fail, from the audio system to suspension parts, the cost of repair or replacement should be covered by the manufacturer. All cars come with at least a three-year or 36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, whichever comes first. This type of warranty does not include tires, which often get a warranty of 12,000 miles or less. Check your handy-dandy owner’s manual to find out what is covered in your bumper
-to-bumper warranty. The bumper-to-bumper warranty doesn’t last as long as the powertrain warranty because it covers many more parts on the car.
Add-Ons. There are some warranty add-ons you may be able to purchase, such as rust/corrosion warranties or federal emissions warranties. Primary care technicians don’t tend to recommend these, and I think you should trust us.
TIP: What if you buy a gently used, two-year-old car? Auto manufacturers’ warranties stay with the VIN of the car (not its owner or driver), so they transfer with the sale of a car. If a used car hasn’t reached the auto manufacturer’s warranty limit, the warranty is still valid.
Extended and Aftermarket Warranties
Aftermarket warranties, sometimes called extended warranties, are warranty packages that dealerships and independent dealers sell through third-party companies. An extended warranty serves as a patch job for the period after the manufacturer’s initial warranty runs out. Extended warranties can be bought at any time—at initial purchase or later down the line.
An extended auto warranty may seem like exactly what you need, especially as the costs of repairing a vehicle keep rising. There are many advantages and disadvantages to aftermarket warranties, and buying one for your car depends on your driving and spending habits.
Advantages of an Aftermarket Warranty
• Relieves the stress that comes with car repair
• Can be purchased at any time
Girls Auto Clinic Glove Box Guide Page 19
