Once you’re able to slow the car, steer toward the shoulder of the road and try to pull off into a safe area. Put on your emergency flashers to let other drivers know you’re having trouble.
Even if these steps helped you to stop successfully, don’t try to drive the car again. Get help immediately and have the car towed.
WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR ENGINE OVERHEATS
Most of the time when your engine overheats, it’s not a spectacular, movie-quality explosion of steam underneath your hood. This is a good thing—because that would mean your hoses have blown (or something worse), and you need to be towed.
If you’ve kept up your coolant levels and dutifully checked the state of the hoses, overheating is far, far less likely to occur. But even the best maintained vehicle can give up its ghost in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the way to the beach in mid-August.
The best thing you can do is try to avoid a complete meltdown by keeping an eye on your temperature gauge. If the needle starts climbing dangerously high and it is easy to do so, get off the road and park someplace safe where the car can cool down.
If you missed this sign, the car is overheating, and it’s not convenient for you to pull over, turn your air conditioner off. Yup, it’s a painful step, but at least you can open the windows.
If the car is still overheating, you have to suffer through far worse to save your car: Turn your heater and fan on full blast. Remember how earlier you learned that the passenger area of the car is heated with some of the leftover heat the engine produces? By turning the heater and fan on you are actively diverting more heat out of the engine and into the passenger area, taking the load off it.
If your passengers complain, remind them that driving a car that’s overheated can damage it badly, and pretty much immediately. Metal melts, remember?
If it’s still overheating, pull the car over immediately and turn it off.
Once it’s cooled down some, pop open the hood. If there’s no steam spraying out, it’s probably not a burst hose. If it is a burst hose, call for a tow truck and do not drive your car.
Is the radiator pressure cap still on? If not, you have a replacement one in your trunk—right?
If the cap is still on, check the coolant level in the reserve—(CAUTION!) remembering that if you fill the radiator directly (not a reservoir), you must let the engine cool down completely before taking off the radiator cap. Hot coolant spraying out will be painful.
If the coolant level is low, first check for leaks under the car. If there are no leaks or only a small one, you can use the bottle of water you keep in the trunk to top off the coolant. Just remember to have the whole coolant system flushed and refilled as soon as you get back—your car really needs the mix of water with antifreeze.
If nothing else seems wrong, wait forty-five minutes for the car to cool down. If it starts and runs at its normal temperature, you can drive merrily off, but keep a closer eye on the needle this time. Remember to have it checked out completely. Something caused it to overheat and it will do it again if you ignore the warnings!
WHAT TO DO IN AN ACCIDENT
We hope you never have to deal with this, but if you’re a regular commuter or drive as much as the average American, there’s a pretty good chance you’re going to be in one sooner or later—remember, other people can cause accidents, too. It’s not just you.
The most important thing is to keep calm and rational. Running around in the street, waving your arms at traffic and screaming, isn’t going to do anyone any good.
Stop the car if it’s still moving and pull off the road or as far away from it as you can.
Try to get all the other cars and people involved safely off the road as well—if the cars are too damaged, leave them there but put your warning flares, triangles, etc., around them.
Do not leave the scene of the accident.
Check to see the condition of everyone involved. If anyone is injured—even the slightest bit—call 911 and then the police.
If it was a hit-and-run—even if no one was injured—call the police.
And now the part most people don’t remember: collecting details.
First, your own:
Location, date, and time of accident
The other driver(s):
Name, address, license number, and telephone number
Insurance company and policy number—phone number, if you can
Make, model, year of other car or cars involved, and license plate numbers
NOTE: If the driver of a car is not the same as the owner of the car, you must get the insurance and contact information of the actual owner as well.
NOTE: You must share all of this same information about you to anyone else involved in the accident!
The police officer:
Name, phone number, badge number, incident or report number
Witnesses:
Names, addresses, and phone numbers. Remember, these are people completely uninvolved with the accident—not passengers.
In addition, jot down anything else you feel was significant to the accident: weather, time of day, how you remember it occurring, which way each of the cars was going, etc. Draw a diagram if you can, while your memory is still fresh.
Take a picture with the disposable camera you keep in your glove compartment of everything relevant to the accident, primarily car damage.
When talking to the police officer, be polite and objective. Stick to the facts, ma’am—do not accuse anyone of anything. Also, unfortunately, do not tell anyone you’re sorry or that it was your fault. It might not have been, and you want the law and the insurance companies to treat you fairly later on.
If your car is damaged, get it towed to a service station. Remember to keep all receipts and call the other driver’s insurance company as soon as you get home.
If you have been injured even a little bit, notify the police officer at the scene and go to the doctor immediately to get a complete checkup. Some things that might not seem serious (ringing in the ears, nausea, etc.) can turn out to be very serious.
Get copies of the police record, any medical receipts or reports, and anything else that pertains to the accident.
Don’t sign anything that isn’t provided to you by the police, your lawyer, or your own insurance agency.
IF YOU’RE STRANDED BY YOURSELF ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD:
If you think these precautions are silly, go out and rent a copy of Deliverance.
First off, use the cell phone you keep in your glove compartment and call 911.
If you’re out of range, open your hood—it’s the international symbol for a broken-down car. Someone will notice it.
If it’s at night and you’re safely off the road, stay in your car. Keep the windows mostly up and the doors locked. If someone stops to offer help, ask them to call someone for you, and do not get out of the car. If the person claims he’s a police officer—and he doesn’t come in a police car—thank him politely and repeat that you would like him to call for help—other help.
And while we’re on this subject … if you have a hands-free cell phone and happen to drive by someone stranded, call 911 for them.
Unfortunately, there’s a limit to what even a skilled home technician can do for his or her car; that’s where taking your car in for service comes in.
Understanding the Service Schedule
Remember how we told you to check in the owner’s manual for your car’s service schedule?
For now, you can read along with this one and we’ll break it down into what each kind of service means.
Service Description
Recommended Maintenance/Inspection Intervals*
Headlights & Small Bulbs Check Weekly
Lube and Oil Filter 3,000 Miles/3 Months
Battery 6,000-Mile Inspection
CV Boots 6,000-Mile Inspection
Tire Rotation 6,000 Miles
Wheel Alignment 6,000-Mile Inspection
Air Filter 12,000-Mile Inspection
Breather Filter 12,000-Mile Inspection
Canister Filter 12,000-Mile Inspection
Cooling System Service 12,000 Miles/12 Months
Emission Service 12,000-Mile Inspection
Engine Analysis 12,000-Mile Inspection
Engine Tune-Up (Non-Computer) 12,000 Miles
Exhaust Parts 12,000-Mile Inspection
Fuel Filter (Carburetor) 12,000 Miles
Fuel Filter (Injection) 12,000 Miles
PCV Valve 12,000 Miles/24 Months
Shock Absorbers 12,000-Mile Inspection
Steering Parts 12,000-Mile Inspection
Struts & Cartridges 12,000-Mile Inspection
Wheel Bearings Repack Seals (Non Drive Axle) 12,000 Miles
Wiper Blades 12,000-Mile Inspection
Air-Conditioning Service 24,000 Miles/24 Months
Brakes 24,000-Mile Inspection
CV Joints 24,000-Mile Inspection
Drive Axle Bearings & Seals 24,000-Mile Inspection
Engine Tune-Up (Computer) 24,000 Miles
Fan/Accessory Belts 24,000 Miles
Fuel Injector Cleaning 24,000 Miles
Power Flush Cooling System 24,000 Miles
Suspension Parts 24,000-Mile Inspection
Transmission Service 24,000 Miles/24 Months
Oxygen Sensor 30,000-Mile Inspection
Cooling System Hoses 36,000 Miles/36 Months
Universal Joints 36,000-Mile Inspection
Vacuum Modulator 36,000 Miles/36 Months
Timing Belts 60,000 Miles/48 Months
*These recommendations are suggested only to maximize the safety, efficiency, and longevity of your vehicle. They are based on the “severe service or use” of your vehicle. Your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation and warranty requirements may differ. Consult your owner’s manual for additional information.
Yours will probably look a little different, with a table consisting of service required, what needs to be performed (inspected or actually worked on) and then an interval number—such as every 3,000 miles or every three months, every 12,000 miles or every year. Often it will just say miles or km? 1000, or months, like this:
The way to read this is that every 3,000 miles or three months, including at 6,000, 9,000, 12,000, 15,000, 30,000, etc., miles, you must Do an oil change. Every 20,000 miles (including 40,000 and 60,000, etc.) you should have your brakes Examined (or sometimes I for Inspected), and the spark plugs should be Replaced every 30,000 miles.
You may note that at many of the bigger mileages—like 30,000—a lot of these inspections and routine replacements occur at the same time. In fact with many cars, the “big” services come at 30,000, 60,000, and 90,000 miles (or 15, 24, and 60 months—whatever your manual dictates). Do not skip anything on your schedule. Besides keeping your car running well for the long haul, it will make it a lot easier to sell for more money if and when you decide to do so.
WHAT THE DIFFERENT SERVICES MEAN
By now you shouldn’t have any problem understanding how or why a particular part of your car needs to be inspected or replaced; you know that disc pads wear out, that fluids lose their ability to lubricate or cool, and that it’s difficult to inspect your own spark plugs.
Many of the things you see on the example schedule, and possibly in your own service schedule (such as breather filter, PCV valves, oxygen sensor, etc.), are items that only a heavy do-it-yourselfer or technician can inspect and/or replace and that don’t require you to make any decisions or necessarily have a thorough understanding of the part. An oxygen sensor, for example, senses how much oxygen is coming out of the engine and updates the car’s computer to change the gas/air mixture, if necessary. A technician will check to see if it is working properly, and replace it for you if it isn’t. Same with spark plugs—engine access is often too tight to allow you to inspect and replace them yourself much anymore.
There are, however, details you should know about what goes on when a professional services the major car systems, so you can know ahead of time what questions to ask or what choices you will need to make. Some of the explanations here on how parts of your car can go bad or need to be adjusted may seem a little dull. Read it anyway—and not right before your car needs to be serviced!
SUSPENSION PARTS: SHOCKS/STRUTS
While you should pay attention to how the car drives, the shocks and/or struts can experience wear that you may not notice. For the health of your car and your own driving safety, they should be inspected thoroughly by a technician while the car is on a lift. Worn shocks and struts don’t keep your tires on the road as well, making it much harder to stop, steer, and safely drive down the road.
Signs That Your Shocks May Need Service:
Car rides rougher or much softer
Car keeps bouncing several times after you hit a bump
You hear clunking or banging when you hit bumps or potholes
Car doesn’t steer as well
Car bottoms out over bumps or when heavily loaded
You see fluid leaking from a shock or strut
Car dips to one side as you drive or when braking
Car rolls or sways excessively when cornering
The front of the car dips down severely when braking
Your tires are wearing out in a choppy fashion
In most cases worn shocks and struts can’t be rebuilt—they can only be replaced (except for a few early strut-equipped vehicles that allow you to replace the strut cartridge only). If you have struts replaced that have more than 40,000 miles on them, it’s a good idea to have the strut mounts replaced as well; they are generally equipped with bearings and are important for proper alignment and steering.
Sometimes people change their shocks or struts to change the way their car rides. If you think the ride is too hard you can put on “softer” units to make the ride smoother. If your car leans too much while turning or “nose-dives” while braking, you can put on “stiffer” units to improve the handling. If you tow a trailer or often carry heavy loads, it may be a good idea to have different shocks from the ones your car came with. The most common types of shocks are as follows:
Standard. The ones that came with your vehicle were probably chosen for a good compromise of handling, comfort, and cost under normal driving conditions.
Heavy duty. These are designed for handling heavier loads or towing a trailer. They are usually “stiffer” than standard shocks and give better control at higher speeds and on rough roads.
High-performance gas shocks and struts. These are designed to improve handling at high speeds and hard acceleration. They can deliver a stiffer ride but help keep the car level in fast turns and during hard braking.
Overload shocks. These have a spring on the outside that helps them handle very heavy loads. They’re typically used for towing or on off-road vehicles.
Air shocks. By changing the pressure in these, drivers can adjust their ride for a very wide range of loads. They’re used most often in vehicles that tow heavy trailers (and occasionally luxury cars, to give a better combination of handling and comfort). The shocks are inflated either by a standard air pump or an on-board air compressor system.
Adjustable. By making an adjustment on the exterior of the unit, these shocks and struts can be tuned to a smoother ride or better handling. However, even on their softest setting most adjustable shocks can be stiffer than standard ones.
Coil-over shocks. Designed for extreme high-performance driving, these are true racing-style shocks—and therefore appropriately expensive. They must be carefully matched to the specific car and should only be installed by a professional.
Monotube. Traditional shocks have two tubes: Fluid travels between the inner and outer tubes to control shock movement (think of those desktop executive toys that you tip to watch blue goo flow slowly against the water and into a funnel or hole or whatever). Monotubes have only one tube, and it’s filled with shock fluid plus a high-pressure gas. In general, they provide a better combination of
handling and comfort than “twin tube” shocks.
Self-adjusting. Many of today’s better shocks are designed to adapt instantly to road conditions. These feature special valves that stiffen shock responses when the wheel travels over potholes and bumps. This helps to maintain handling and braking, but allows a comfortable ride on smooth roads.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
When your car was designed, the manufacturer calculated the ideal position for the wheels in relation to the car so you could get the best possible control, comfort, tire life, and fuel economy. Your car is out of alignment when the wheels come out of their correct positions. Misalignment accelerates tire wear as well as affecting your braking and handling and—in essence, your ability to control your car in emergencies and on slick roads.
Often an inspection of your alignment won’t show up on a service schedule—it’s something you request when you notice certain symptoms and you’re certain it’s not tire pressure.
Signs That You Need Your Alignment Checked
A change of handling is the main clue: your steering wheel is crooked on a straight road or your car tends to drift to one side when driving on a straight and level road, or if you have to hold the steering wheel tightly to keep the car moving straight ahead.
When you check your tires, uneven wear is another clue that your alignment needs to be checked (see chart on this page).
NOTE: Uneven tire wear can also be caused by a wheel that’s bent or out of balance. Whenever you have your car aligned, have your technician check the balance on all four wheels.
NOTE TOO: Uneven tire pressure can also have the same effect as your wheels being out of alignment. Before you spend beaucoup bucks to have your wheels aligned, check your tires with a good-quality gauge you have on hand (right?) to make sure they have the correct pressure, according to your car manual. If this doesn’t fix the problems, then go see a technician.
E.J. Braswell Page 6
