by Mike Graf
“It’s so nice to be out of the sun,” Dad announced between bites of his crackers.
After finishing his snack, Dad yawned and stretched out. Then he laid his head back and propped it against his pack. “I really didn’t sleep much last night,” he mentioned.
“Who could?” Morgan commented.
“I wonder where the mountain lion went,” James mused. “I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I mean, if it didn’t get to eat that deer, it had to have something.”
“I think we’re all thinking too much,” Mom said. Then she too lay down.
Soon all four Parkers were stretched out on the rock—in the cool respite of the Joint. Moments later Dad began to snore. Shortly after that, they all were asleep.
Sometime later, James was the first to wake up. He checked his family and determined they were all still somewhere in dreamland. Then, quietly, James opened his pack and pulled out his story. He picked up his pen, gathered his thoughts, and began writing . . .
“Sir. This is James William Parker, reporting back from downriver.”
“What can you tell me, Mr. Parker?”
“Well,” James replied to Captain Powell. “It’s apparently quite rough down there. It could be very difficult travel. The rapids and white water ahead might devastate us.”
“How far did you go?”
“Not that far. But we did run into a Native American scout who told us of the conditions far below. We had to turn back, though, due to rocky terrain and a lack of supplies.”
“Do you think we’ll capsize?”
“Based on what we heard, possibly.”
“How did you get back?”
“Climbing over rocks and through groves of willow and cottonwood trees. It wasn’t easy. I am all scratched up myself. And it was a little spooky too. One of the guys climbed higher for a better vantage point and walked right up to an Indian ruin. Nearby was a cave with ancient faces painted on it. We took a look and felt like we were seeing ghosts.”
“Did you see any signs of recent activity?”
“No, sir. But we did keep our eyes out.”
“Thank you, Mr. Parker. By the way, did you say ‘James William Parker’?”
“Yes, sir.”
“Well that makes both of our initials JWP.”
“I know, sir,” James replied.
James paused, trying to think of what to write next. He glanced at his family and saw they were still napping.
Then James heard voices coming from somewhere in the slot canyon. First they were faint, but they quickly grew louder. Soon footsteps accompanied the voices.
James looked around the Joint. Then he saw the people. One by one they entered the chasm from the opposite direction his family had come in. James watched them step out of the sunshine and into the underworld while heading toward the resting Parker family.
Soon, eight people tramped toward the Parkers, passing the rock displays along the way.
When they were about halfway down, Morgan, Mom, and Dad also heard the commotion. They each sat up and watched the visitors approach.
Finally the group reached the Parkers.
“Hello,” Mom greeted them.
“Pretty cool in here,” one guy replied.
“Definitely,” Dad agreed. “You’re a big group; are you on a tour?”
The hikers were carrying bags and day packs. “We’re river rafting guides,” one said. “And this is our day off. We like to come in here when we get some free time.”
“Did you hike all the way out today already?” James inquired. “It’s so early.”
“Actually, no. It’s only a short walk from a four-wheel-drive road.”
The Parkers looked confused.
“Do you have a map?” one of the guides asked.
James took his map out. A person in the group showed the family the nearby jeep road.
“I hadn’t even noticed that,” Dad admitted.
“We couldn’t have taken it anyway,” Mom said. “Our car doesn’t have four-wheel drive.”
“True,” Dad admitted.
“Besides, the hike was worth it,” Morgan added.
“Well,” the guide said. “Do you mind if we join you up there on that rock?” He held up a bag. “We’ve got our lunches in here.”
17
Piling on the Rocks
The eight young men and women of the river crew hoisted themselves up to where the Parkers were sitting. Quickly they unpacked their food. “Leftovers from our last trip,” one of them said, holding up a bag of rolls.
“We might as well eat now too,” Mom suggested, dishing out peanut butter sandwiches to her family.
Soon everyone was feasting. “Want some pudding?” asked one of the crew members, showing the Parkers a sack of small containers.
“Sure,” James said, looking at his parents. “But our spoons are still dirty from dinner last night.”
“I’ll show you a little trick,” the guide offered. He peeled the foil lid off the top of the container and folded it into a makeshift spoon. Then he dipped the lid into the pudding, scooped some out, and inhaled the savory dessert.
“That’ll work!” Dad exclaimed.
The Parkers each took a container from the river runners.
“What’s it like on the river here?” James asked curiously.
“Well, there are actually two rivers in the park,” one of the women replied. “And they’re both very different.”
“They are?” James asked, puzzled. He looked at his map.
The woman came over and pointed. “Our company runs trips on the Colorado River, here. Once we get down the canyon, though, both the Green River and the Colorado join and flow into Cataract Canyon. From there it’s a white-water thrill ride and very difficult. But the Colorado River is where most of the outfitters go.”
“What about the Green River?” Morgan asked, knowing that’s what her family was planning to do.
Another crew member offered his opinion on it. “The Green River’s a totally different experience. Most people start out at Mineral Bottom, over here. From there it’s about fifty mostly flat miles of incredible canoeing and scenery. And with fewer outfitters, it’s much quieter than the Colorado.”
“And there are trails and side canyons with surprises along the way,” another added.
“Really?” James asked, remembering his story. “Are there any arches?”
“Oh, I’m sure there are. Some of this country is the most remote in the United States. So there may be areas with unknown arches. And the Maze, over here,” the guide pointed to a different section of the map, “is totally wild and mostly trail-less. An amazing place.”
“Wow!” Mom chimed in. “This area sure has a lot to offer.”
“What’s being a river runner like?” Morgan asked.
“Never a dull moment,” another crew person replied. “We steer the boats, cook, clean, set up camp, tell stories, and make sure everyone is fed, safe, and having fun.”
Morgan then asked. “What’s your favorite place along the river?”
“That’s a tough question. There are so many possibilities.”
“The whole Green River’s my favorite,” a crew member answered. “It’s so much more of a wilderness journey. And it’s where John Wesley Powell traveled.”
James looked at the guide, wondering what he knew about Powell.
“Can you give us an example of a great place we might experience once on the water?” Mom asked.
“Depends on how much time you have and what you’re willing to do,” the guide replied. “But let me think for a second.”
All eight river guides pondered suggestions.
“Cross of the Buttes,” one finally said.
“What about Turks Head?” another chimed in.
“Where do these names come from?” Dad asked.
“They are the official names found on topo maps,” a crew person replied. “But John Wesley Powell named most of them on his original journey.�
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“Really?” James asked, intrigued.
Then a group member called out. “Tilted Park!”
“Yeah. Tilted Park,” another chimed in.
“Definitely. Tilted Park,” the crew person next to the Parkers agreed.
“Tilted Park?” James asked.
The river guide explained. “That’s a place on the river in Cataract Canyon. All the rocks there are standing up at angles, which is where the area gets its name. That in and of itself is a pretty cool sight to see.”
“Our tours camp on a sandbar and build a fire. We dance on the sand at night.”
“And during the day . . . ,” another guide chimed in. “We’re right next to ‘rapid number ten.’ And that’s the best part. We break out all the goodies—inflatable duckies, dolphins, and all kinds of blow-up pool toys. Everyone walks upstream and plunges into the water to ride rapid number ten over and over.”
“Some people do it all day long.”
“And the water’s so nice and warm.” The guides kept taking turns filling in the details.
“That sure sounds like fun,” Mom admitted. “You’ve got us thinking.”
After the crew told of their adventures on the rivers, several of them wandered around the chasm inspecting the rock art. “I always feel it’s like a religious shrine or temple in here,” one commented in awe.
“Hey, check this one,” another called out. “The rocks are stacked in this tiny hole in the rock wall.”
Morgan and James jumped over to take another look at the now familiar miniature pile. All four of them began to walk around and admire the displays.
Then one of the crew members got an idea. “Do you want to help us make our own?”
Morgan and James both enthusiastically nodded. Quickly they each scanned the rocky underworld for any unused stones.
Morgan found several nearby. James grabbed a couple that were behind him. The two river runners dashed back to the lunch spot and hauled over a couple of larger rocks for the base of their stack.
“Let’s start with this one,” the guy said, holding up the biggest, flattest rock found so far.
“Okay,” James replied. “By the way, I’m James and this is my sister, Morgan.”
“I’m Matt and this is Carrie.”
The four partners shook hands.
Matt placed the large rock at the bottom. James carefully added one on top of that. Morgan and Carrie also placed rocks on the growing pile. Then Carrie started a second pile near the first. All four kept adding more rocks and stacking them up. James found a bulkier one midway and held it in place until it felt secure enough to let go.
Soon there were two parallel growing stacks, teetering at times, but staying upright.
A moment later Matt and Carrie hauled over a larger, mostly flat rock and bridged it across the top, connecting the two pillars. By now Mom and Dad and the whole river crew were the audience to the growing statue.
“Don’t let go!” one person warned. “Or else the whole thing could come crashing down.”
One by one, first Carrie, then Morgan, then James did let go. That left only Matt holding up the improbable arch creation.
Matt smiled at the audience. “Put some here and here on these little flat spots,” he gestured to the twins and Carrie. “Smaller stacks for decoration before I let go.”
Morgan, James, and Carrie followed Matt’s prompt. They each made mini piles inside, on top of, and on overhanging shelves of their rock pillar.
“Whoo-hoo!” James exclaimed, as he finished his little addition on the very top of the pile.
“We made another Delicate Arch!” Morgan called out proudly. “Well, sort of.”
When all appeared ready, Matt lifted his hand slowly so that just the tips of his fingers supported the modern Stonehenge.
“Okay, everyone!” he called out.
“No. Wait!” Morgan stopped Matt. “Can I get a few pictures first?”
Morgan snapped some photos of Matt still barely supporting their structure. Then Mom came over. “You and James get in there. And you too,” she said to Carrie.
Mom took a photo of all four artists, and then another of all the river runners surrounding the creation.
Then, finally, came the moment of truth. Matt again slowly lifted his fingers. “Hold your breath, everyone,” Matt whispered. “No sneezing or coughing,” he playfully added.
Everyone in the Joint was silent. Finally, Matt gingerly peeled away his fingers.
And the statue stayed put. Matt carefully tiptoed away then silently gave Morgan, James, and Carrie high-fives.
“We did it,” Morgan whispered. “I hope it lasts.”
“So we can see it when we come back,” James said quietly.
“Whenever that might be,” Dad added.
Finally it was time for the Parkers to go. They gathered up their gear and said good-bye to the river crew. James and Morgan hugged Carrie and Matt.
“Think about it. Get on the river,” Matt called out as the Parkers began trudging toward the Joint’s exit.
“Actually, we are already planning to,” Mom replied. “We were just picking your brains for a preview.”
Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad followed the trail and walked past more rock statues toward a slot between large rock fins. At the end of the slot, Dad shook his head and said, “What a place!”
Finally the Parkers stepped up between the rock walls and reentered the world of sunshine. They turned around and waved to the river runners one last time. Then the family began their journey back to the car.
18
The End and the Beginning
After the trail broke out into the sun, the family walked along quietly. At some point Dad glanced at his watch. “Whoa! It’s 3:00 p.m.,” he declared. “We were in there for quite a while. I think I lost track of time.”
“We better get a move on then,” Mom urged.
Soon the Parkers were on the jeep road. They passed a small parking lot with two four-wheel-drive trucks in it. “Those must be their cars,” James said.
A short while later the trail veered off the road. The Parkers began climbing up through a series of rocky areas with cairns marking their path.
At one point Dad stopped. He looked around on the slickrock for where to go next. James, Morgan, and Mom caught up to him, and the family searched the area. Morgan saw the trail marker high above them.
“Up there,” she pointed.
Dad looked up, then at the twins. “You two go first,” he said. “I seem to keep losing the trail.”
Morgan and James took over in front. “Come on,” Morgan called back, climbing up the escarpment.
The twins continued to hike along, pausing at various intervals to find the pathway among the rocks.
“This way,” Morgan guided.
“There’s the trail,” James observed later.
“Good eyes, you two,” Dad encouraged.
“You’re explorers, just like John Wesley Powell,” Mom said at one point. “You’ve got it down.”
James smiled at Mom’s comment as he led the way up through another rocky area.
Finally, after a series of climbs, the path weaved between two huge rock fins. They entered a large, round valley surrounded by towering pinnacles of rock. “We’re in Chesler Park again!” Morgan realized.
James verified the spot on his map.
The Parkers gathered together, gazing at the awe-inspiring place. “Let’s stay close together in here,” Mom suggested, remembering the carnivores of yesterday.
Soon the trail came to the original junction into Chesler Park. “We’ve come full circle now,” Dad announced.
Morgan, James, Mom, and Dad turned to take in the scene once more. “Good-bye, Chesler Park,” Morgan called out.
“We’ll be back,” James added somberly.
The family walked the last 2.9 miles back to their car briskly. At one point Mom announced, “That was a very magical place. A once-in-a-lifetime trail not to
be missed. It was hard hiking at times and a long trail, but absolutely worth it.”
“I agree,” James echoed.
“Me too,” Morgan added.
“You all know how I feel,” Dad chimed in from the back.
Eventually Morgan and James led their parents down the final set of rock stairs to their waiting car. They loaded their gear and piled in, and Mom carefully drove the three-mile dirt road back to the campground.
The Parkers found an empty site nestled among the rocks at Squaw Flat Campground. They quickly set up camp, filled up on water, and began preparing dinner.
After dinner, Morgan pulled out her journal.
Dear Diary:
It’s very hard ending this trip. But in many ways, really, it’s just the beginning. Tomorrow we take off down the river.
Right now, though, it is sunset at Squaw Flat Campground in Canyonlands, and everything is quiet in this remote place. I can even see a small arch in some rocks across the way. James looked it up on his map. Wooden Shoe Arch is what this one is called.
It’s very hard to come up with a top ten list for Arches and Canyonlands. It feels like we’ve been to a bunch of national parks over the last week or so.
So James and I collaborated and came up with a list together (sorry if it’s a little long). But if you ever come out here, you’ll see why:
Arches National Park
Delicate Arch
Landscape Arch
Surprise Arch in the Fiery Furnace
Crawl Through Arch in the Fiery Furnace
Climbing the rocks at Arches campground
Park Avenue Trail
Balanced Rock
The Windows and Double Arch
Rattlesnake, coyote, and rabbits at Arches
Broken Arch Trail
Tapestry Arch
Canyonlands National Park
Grand View Point
White Rim overlook
Aztec Butte views and granary
Upheaval Dome
The Neck overlook
Chesler Park
