by Michael Gill
Ed’s Catalina flying boat crew. On his left is Ron Ward, co-owner of the Jolly Roger. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Ed in the Solomons with the crocodile he and Ron Ward harpooned and shot. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
An officer is pouring something that is not champagne over the bow of the Jolly Roger at its launching. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Ed on a summit in the Sealy Range, 1946. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed with companion (probably Jack McBurney) and two unknown young women outside a corrugated iron hut. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed and Harry Ayres on the summit of Aoraki-Mt Cook, 1947. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Aoraki-Mt Cook. The prominent rock ridge between sun and shadow is the South Ridge which was first climbed by Ayres, Hillary, Sullivan and Adams in 1948. It leads to Low Peak. The summit ridge continues to Middle and then High Peak. COLIN MONTEATH/HEDGEHOG HOUSE
Ed with George Lowe, c.1952. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed at the Breslauer Hut in the Austrian Alps, 1950. A few days later he received the invitation to join the 1951 expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed Cotter, Ed Hillary (with bow and arrow) and Earle Riddiford under the bivvy rock at the foot of the Maximilian Ridge of Elie de Beaumont. LOWE COLLECTION
The NZ Expedition to Garhwal: Ed Hillary, Ed Cotter, George Lowe and Earle Riddiford (leader). HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Ed discusses life with the daughter of the editor of the Melbourne Age aboard the P&O ship Orion. LOWE COLLECTION
Mukut Parbat from the south. The route to the summit is up the left-hand ridge. LOWE COLLECTION
The north-west ridge of Mukut Parbat. The summit climb began from Camp 3 on the snow col on the other side of the broken ice. LOWE COLLECTION
The British reconnaissance party 1951. Standing (L to R): Eric Shipton, Bill Murray, Tom Bourdillon and Earle Riddiford; Seated: Mike Ward and Ed Hillary. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Panorama of the Everest group as a backdrop to the Sherpa villages. The houses of Namche Bazar (photographed in 2010, not 1951) fill the steep little cirque in lower centre. Two tracks lead up and left to Khumjung and Khunde which are just visible in the flat valley running left from centre. Tengboche Monastery is on a spur on the other side of the main valley, which is the Dudh Kosi. Everest is the rearmost peak with all except its top 1500 feet concealed by the Lhotse-Nuptse Ridge. The prominent peak on the right is Ama Dablam with the Mingbo Valley in front. LHAKPA SONAM SHERPA
The key 1951 view of Everest from Pumori showing a route linking the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm to the South Col by way of the snow and ice slopes of the Lhotse Face. The actual route from Col to summit is just behind the skyline ridge. ERIC SHIPTON
The 1921 British Everest party. Standing (L to R): Bullock, Morshead, Wheeler and Mallory; Seated: Heron, Wollaston, Howard-Bury and Raeburn. WOLLASTON COLLECTION
Arthur Hinks, the influential Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
George Finch in 1922, wearing his self-designed quilted jacket. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Rongbuk Monastery with Everest and its North Face filling the head of the Rongbuk Valley. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
The first assault party, 1922: Morshead, Mallory, Somervell and Norton. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Oxygen apparatus used by Finch and Bruce in 1922 to reach a record altitude of 27,300ft. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
The 1924 party. Standing (L to R): Irvine, Mallory, Norton, Odell and MacDonald; Seated: Shebbeare, Bruce, Somervell and Beetham. JOHN NOEL
Mallory and Irvine set off from the North Col on their last climb. JOHN NOEL
The North Face of Everest in 1933 showing the First and Second Steps and where the Mallory/Irvine ice axe was found. The circle marks the site where Mallory’s body was found in 1999 by the Mallory and Irvine Expedition at 26,760 feet. The expeditions of 1924 and 1933 traversed into the Great Couloir at a height of 28,130 feet before being brought to a halt by exhaustion and difficult rock. On his oxygenless solo ascent in 1980 Reinhold Messner also traversed into the couloir before continuing to the summit. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Mallory (left) and Irvine. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
The crucial pitch on the Second Step photographed in 1999. The low angle of view makes the rock look deceptively easier than it is. The five-metre ladder was fixed in place by the 1975 Chinese expedition and has been in use ever since. Conrad Anker’s free climb of the step used the broad crack to the left of the ladder. DAVE HAHN, 1999 MALLORY AND IRVINE EXPEDITION
The 1935 party. Standing (L to R): Bryant, Wigram, Warren and Spender; Sitting: Tilman, Shipton and Kempson. DAN BRYANT
Cho Oyu party, 1952. Standing (L to R): Colledge, Hillary, Shipton, Pugh, Riddiford and Lowe; Seated: Secord, Gregory, Evans and Bourdillon. RIDDIFORD COLLECTION
The North Face of Cho Oyu. The 1952 expedition turned back below the ice cliffs in the lower part of the face. Climbers on this expansive snow face might have been visible to Chinese soldiers in Tibet. ARTHUR COLLINS/HEDGEHOG HOUSE
The Swiss spring expedition, 1952. Standing (L to R): Flory, Wyss-Dunant, Aubert, Hofstetter and Lambert; Seated: Chevalley, Roch, Asper, Lombard, Zimmerman and Dittert. THE SWISS FOUNDATION FOR ALPINE RESEARCH
The Lhotse Face is mid-photo below the summit of Lhotse. The South Col is skyline left. On the right is the Geneva Spur. The Swiss route in spring 1952 climbed the steep ice slope to the Geneva Spur. The Swiss autumn route, which was also used by the British in 1953, wound up amongst the ledges, crevasses and ice walls of the Lhotse Glacier in mid-photo below the summit and face of Lhotse. THE SWISS FOUNDATION FOR ALPINE RESEARCH
The South Summit (28,720ft) from the South Col (25,800ft). Lambert and Tenzing’s camp was at 27,500ft and their high point was 28,200ft. THE SWISS FOUNDATION FOR ALPINE RESEARCH
John Hunt. The inscription reads: ‘Ed Hillary. To remind you of our comradeship on Everest. John Hunt 7/1/54’. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The party and high-altitude Sherpa team at Advance Base on 31 May 1953. Standing (L to R): Stobart, Dawa Tenzing, Evans, Wylie, Hillary, Hunt, Tenzing, Lowe, Ward, Bourdillon, Band, Pugh, Gregory and Noyce; Seated: 21 high-altitude Sherpas – Topkie, Thondup, Chhangju, Annullu, Ang Tsering, Norbu, Balu Tensing, Mingma Tsering, Dawa Thondup, Ang Nima, Da Namgyal, Thakto Pemba, Pasang Dawa, Nawang Gombu, Gyaljen, Phu Dorje, Nanje Khancha, Ang Temba, Ang Dorje, Kirken and Ang Dawa. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
John Hunt working on logistics at the camp in the grounds of Tengboche Monastery, 12,688 feet. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Aerial view of Everest showing route from Base Camp to summit. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Porters at the top of the Khumbu Icefall where it eases off into the Western Cwm. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Ed Hillary at Base Camp. GEORGE LOWE
The Western Cwm leading up to the Lhotse Face and the peak of Lhotse, 27,941 feet. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
From the South Summit of Everest on 26 May, Bourdillon surveys the unclimbed final ridge. CHARLES EVANS
Tenzing assisting Bourdillon and Evans after they have climbed, on closed-circuit oxygen, to the highest altitude ever reached, 28,700ft. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
The five men who helped Hillary and Tenzing to carry Camp 9 to 27,800ft: Hunt, Da Namgyal, Gregory, Ang Nima and Lowe. GEORGE LOWE
Hillary and Tenzing climbing on open-circuit oxygen above the South Col. ALF GREGORY
The summit ridge seen from the South Summit. The Hillary Step is three-quarters of the way up this photo. ED HILLARY
Tenzing on the summit of Everest. ED HILLARY
Hillary and Tenzing back at Advance Base after their first ascent. ALF GREGORY
Times correspondent James Morris. ALF GREGORY
Hunt and Pugh conducting oxygen concentration tests. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Ed and George in London where they adopt local dress. HILLARY MUSEUM COLL
ECTION
Phyllis Rose née Joske and Jim Rose. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Louise Rose, age c.21. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Louise was a gifted musician, winning a viola scholarship to the Sydney Conservatorium of Music. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
The Hillary-Rose wedding on 3 September 1953. In the background are Percy Hillary and George Lowe. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Louise and Ed set off on their combined honeymoon and lecture tour in 1953. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
After the crevasse accident. McFarlane in front has been carried off the mountain by Pasang Dawa, the powerfully built Nepali to his right. Hillary is at the back on the left, Michael Ball, the overworked doctor, is near centre and Brian Wilkins is on the far right. WILKINS COLLECTION
Makalu, 27,826 feet, fifth-highest peak in the world. The lower peak to the left is Makalu II, which was an objective for the New Zealand expedition until they were sidetracked into saving the life of Hillary. Between Makalu I and Makalu II is Makalu Col, which was the site of Camp 5 for the 1961 Hillary expedition to Makalu. NORMAN HARDIE
Sherpas carry a semi-conscious Hillary down to Makalu Base Camp. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Ed and Louise with Peter, born December 1954. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Louise near the site of the family’s Anawhata bach above the west coast cliffs. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
The cover of High Adventure, published in 1955.
Ed signing copies of High Adventure. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Vivian ‘Bunny’ Fuchs. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Aboard Theron approaching Antarctica. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Eight members of the British Trans-Antarctic Expedition wintering party wave goodbye to Theron. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
New Zealand’s Scott Base on the southernmost tip of Ross Island in McMurdo Sound. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The New Zealand Antarctic wintering party, 1957. Standing (L to R): Balham, Miller, Gawn, Ayres, Hillary, Marsh, Cranfield, Brooke, Claydon and Mulgrew; Seated: Gerard, Bates, Macdonald, Tarr, Gunn, Orr, Hatherton, Carlyon, Warren, Bucknell, Ellis, Sandford and Douglas. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Jim Bates working on diesel motors at Scott Base. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Murray Ellis working on the tracks of a Ferguson tractor at Scott Base. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The Weasel and Ferguson tractors ascending the Skelton Glacier. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The Beaver, flown by Claydon and Cranfield, was the principal load carrier for establishing Trans-Antarctic Expedition depots. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The tractor train on the Polar Plateau. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Nearly gone! Encounter with a crevasse on the Polar Plateau. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
New Zealand leader in the Antarctic. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
‘The Old Firm’ who nursed and drove three tractors to the Pole (L to R): Hillary, Ellis, Bates, Mulgrew and Wright. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
International cooperation: Admiral George Dufek and Ed Hillary at the South Pole, February 1958, awaiting arrival of the Fuchs party. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Civic welcome of Antarctic heroes: Fuchs and Hillary in Wellington, March 1958. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Louise and Ed with their children, 1959. Sarah is holding tiny baby Belinda. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Cover of No Latitude for Error, published in 1961.
Dr Griffith Pugh, research physiologist and scientific leader of the Silver Hut expedition at Mingbo in the Himalayas with Taweche behind. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Expedition member Marlin Perkins explains to Chicago TV how he hopes to capture a yeti for his zoo. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed Hillary and Desmond Doig examine Khumjung Monastery’s yeti scalp. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Journalist Desmond Doig. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The head of the Mingbo Valley from Ama Dablam. Silver Hut and its accompanying tent are visible as two dots just below the isolated crevasse protruding into the smooth névé in the middle of the photo. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Silver Hut with Mingbo Col, on the route to Makalu, behind. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The wintering party (L to R): Bishop, Lahiri, Pugh, Siku, Ward, Dawa Tensing, Milledge, Mingma Norbu, West and Gill. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
John West measuring his lung diffusing capacity at Silver Hut. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Silver Hut in a winter storm. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ama Dablam. The route follows the south-east ridge between the shadowed rock and the sunlit snow. The snow cave camp was on the lower ice bulge. The route to the summit climbs to the right of the upper ice bulge to reach the snow spur slanting up the final snow face. Peter Hillary’s party in 1979 was climbing the face direct when they were struck by an ice avalanche. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
‘The Women’s Expedition’, March 1961 (L to R): Lila Bishop, Ed Hillary, Louise Hillary, Irene Ortenburger, Leigh Ortenburger, Peter Mulgrew, June Mulgrew, Gita Bannerjee and Fred Moodie (Ed’s GP). HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Makalu Base Camp with Lhotse and Everest behind. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Camp 5 on Makalu Col, 24,300 feet. The route for the summit attempt traverses left then ascends alongside the inconspicuous central glacier to Camp 6. Camp 6₁/₂ is on the other side of the glacier. Camp 7 is on the snow slope at 27,000 feet, and the highest point reached by Mulgrew and Nevison is on the pointed snow tongue entering a gully on the final rock face. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
West and Ward assembling the bicycle ergometer on Makalu Col. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Wind on Makalu. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Peter Mulgrew before the Makalu climb. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Peter Mulgrew alive after the Makalu climb but seriously ill with a pulmonary infarction and frostbite. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The Hillary family with garlands and Tasman Empire Airways Ltd bags set out for a year in Chicago working for World Book. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed presents a set of World Book encyclopedias to a Hillary school in Nepal. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ed in his Sears Advisory blazer. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The family pose with their Mini for an alternative newspaper photo before leaving their home at 278a Remuera Road at the beginning of 1962. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Peter, Sarah and Belinda boil the billy at a camp in Alaska. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
The first intake of pupils at the just-built Khumjung School in 1961. Head teacher Tem Dorji Sherpa is at the rear. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
Ten years later four new schoolrooms have been added. In the background is Khumjung Village. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
A Sherpa boy dying of smallpox in 1963. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
The potato-growers and yak-herders of Lukla begin clearing land for an airstrip to enable building materials to be flown in, 1964. HILLARY FAMILY COLLECTION
Phaplu airstrip rebuilt and extended in preparation for building Phaplu Hospital in 1975. HILLARY MUSEUM COLLECTION
