by Lisa Shea
Women’s Clothing
A number of readers had specific questions about women’s medieval clothing so I created this page with those specific details. To illustrate it, I have included a drawing done by Andreas Muller, a famous German artist known for his work restoring ancient paintings. This drawing was published back in 1861, so it’s now out of copyright. As you might expect the drawing shows German people, not English, but the fashions are from the 1200s and are quite similar in style.
So, the basics. Women wore at least two layers of long dress. The bottom layer, or “chemise,” was often plain white but could be fancier with nobles. This was what was against the skin, got sweaty, and would be washed. The chemise was often slept in, again especially if the person was poor.
The outer layer, what we would call the “dress,” was the prettier layer. This would have the nicer stitching and designs. It could have embroidery or different fabrics stitched together to create designs. The outer dress could have long sleeves, short sleeves, or no sleeves, depending on how hot the weather was. In general, though, a woman’s arms and legs were covered by the inner chemise and perhaps also by the outer dress as well. Women in medieval times did not tend to show skin from those parts of the body.
You might see images on the web with medieval women wearing long “trumpet” sleeves which made housework impractical. These were sometimes worn by French nobles who were showing off that they did not have to do menial labor. They were not a normal fashion in England or most other areas.
By the same token, women who had to work hard would wear shorter dresses - ending above the ankle rather than dragging on the floor. That was so their dresses did not catch or drag while they went about their work. Noblewomen who had a quiet day planned or a formal event would wear longer, floor-dragging dresses. These subtle differences helped to show off their status.
If it got even colder women would wear cloaks. These range from light, like the woman in the middle is wearing here, to heavy and full-circle, which could be amazingly warm. I have one of those.
Here is an illuminated image done between 1285 and 1292 which shows the famous poet Marie de France. Marie primarily wrote between 1160 to 1190 and was well known by nobility in France and England. Again, you can see how her outer long dress goes to the floor and the inner dress is visible at the arms. This copyright-free image comes via the National Library of France.
Women had an immense array of colorful dyes to choose from, some more expensive, some less expensive. So clothing could be quite bright and cheery. Just as in modern times, practicality had an aspect here. If someone was going to work in the pig pen all day long they’d probably wear something brown and old. If they were going to church they’d wear their best outfit they had.
In modern times we can sometimes think of dresses as “fancy” items we wear to “dress up” that are hard to move in. In medieval times, a dress was normal and natural! These were the outfits they wore every single day. Women made their dresses so they could do all their normal activities in them. To them a dress was like our modern t-shirt and sweatpants. So they’re no question about “could they do chores in a dress” or “could they ride a horse in a dress.” Of course they could - that’s what the clothing was made for. Medieval women didn’t generally hide out in tower rooms. Noblewomen would do archery and horseback riding for fun. Working women would scythe hay, ride to the market, and do a myriad of other chores in their dresses. It was what one wore. So those outfits absolutely were made to easily let them do those tasks. Dresses were loose to allow all of that. Women didn’t ride sidesaddle in medieval days - they simply put their legs on either side for stability. And their clothing was made for that. To ride, a woman could either tuck the skirt beneath her, like when one sits on a chair, or let it flow behind her. Either way works!
In terms of underclothes, most medieval women did not wear a bra. Their simple, straight dresses were meant to keep the body hidden rather than emphasized. A large breasted woman might wear a “binder” to keep the breasts from jiggling around while they tried to work. Current thought is that women didn’t wear “underwear” (underpants) either. With their long multi-layer dresses it would be a challenge for underwear-wearing women to go to the bathroom. Instead, they would just move to a section of the field, fluff out their dresses, and go. Then they could get back to work. The same in the outhouses.
Even during the time of their periods, many researchers feel that the philosophy of the time was that binding or constricting a woman’s flow would damage her fertility. So she simply bled into her underdress and that was washed. This free-flow practice continued long after medieval times. It was mentioned in doctors’ journals in the 1800s. Even as recent as the 1900s there were cotton mills in the United States that had straw-strewn floors to absorb female workers’ blood, so again this was not a short-term trend. And given that tampons can cause toxic shock syndrome, maybe those medieval women knew what they were doing :).
Let me know if you have any other questions about medieval women’s clothing! I have a library of books here to help with research.
Dedication
To my mom, dad, siblings, and family members who encouraged me to indulge myself in medieval fantasies. I spent many long car rides creating epic tales of sword-wielding heroines and the strong men who stood by their sides. Jenn, Uncle Blake, and Dad were awesome proofers.
To Peter and Elizabeth May, who patiently toured me around England, Scotland, and France on three separate occasions. Elizabeth offered valuable tips on creating authentic scenes. Visiting the Berkhamsted motte and bailey was priceless.
To Jody, Leslie, Liz, Sarah, and Jenny, my friends who enjoy my eclectic ways and provide great suggestions. Becky was my first ever web-fan and her enthusiasm kept me going!
To the editors at BellaOnline, who inspire me daily to reach for my dreams and to aim for the stars. Lisa, Cheryll, Jeanne, Lizzie, Moe, Terrie, Ian, and Jilly provided insightful feedback to help my polishing efforts.
To the Massachusetts Mensa Writing Group for their feedback and enthusiastic support. Lynn, Tom, Ruth, Carmen, Al, and Dean all offered detailed, helpful advice!
To the Geek Girls, with their unflagging support for my expanding list of projects and enterprises. Debi’s design talents are amazing. I simply adore the covers she created for me.
To the Academy of Knightly Arts for several years of in-depth training and combat experience with medieval swords and knives. I loved sparring with Nikki and Jo-Ann!
To B&R Stables who renewed my love of horseback riding and quiet forest trails.
To my son, James, whose insights into psychology help ground my characters in authentic behavior.
To Bob See, my partner in love for over 19 years and counting. He enthusiastically supports all of my new projects.
About the Author
Lisa Shea is a fervent fan of honor, loyalty, and chivalry. She brings to life worlds where men and women stand shoulder to shoulder, steady in their desire to make the world a better place for all. While her medieval heroines often wield a sword, they equally value the skilled use of their intelligence, wisdom, courage, and compassion.
Lisa has studied the Middle Ages since she was quite young. She has trained in medieval swordfighting for several years. She studied medieval dance and music with the SCA. She has been to England numerous times and loves exploring old castles and churches.
Please visit Lisa at LisaShea.com to learn more about her background and interests. Feedback is always appreciated!
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Namaste Aloha Servus
Many languages have a single word that can be used both as a greeting and a farewell. I imagine it’s because, in thoughtful relationships, the person is never really gone. They stay within your thoughts until the next time you are able to be together again. While there was technically a beginning, once that connection is made it is always there. There is a continuation of memory and care.
Over the years, countless people have helped me with my writing. My dedication earlier does not even come close to touching them all. Every time a new reader picks up a book and becomes part of the story process, their comments enrich our entire community. Often it’s a random thought or idea from one reader which then causes improving changes in the storylines for future ones.
I then am able to pass along those ideas and suggestions to all the authors I help. That allows them to blossom and grow in their own projects.
If you have feedback on this or any of my stories, please share it! I’d love to hear from you.
Thank you so much to all my readers. Thank you to my fellow authors who encourage me. Thank you to the wonderful creative spirits who provide inspiration for me.
Perhaps most of all, I want to send my warmest of wishes to the battered and emotionally burdened women who struggle each day to face the world. All of the proceeds from this series support shelters. This mission is extremely important to me. It is tragic we still live in a world where those shelters are necessary. Until our society rises to a level where they’re no longer needed, I will strive to do my part to support them.
We all share this big blue marble we call home. It’s the only place we have to live. And we’re only on it for the blink of an eye before we’re gone again.
We should treasure each day.
We should care for those around us who have walked a rough road.
And we should be grateful for all we have.
Thank you for being a part of my journey.
Namaste.
