Sacramento Delta Crayfish with Thai Chili Mayonnaise
Sacramento Delta Crayfish with Thai Chili Mayonnaise
Makes about 60 crayfish; serves 4 as a first course
One Christmas, we threw an “all the heads you can suck” party. Don’t be shocked—we are talking about crayfish. True crayfish lovers know that sucking on the heads to get all the juices and the tomalley is every bit as important a part of the experience as eating the meat. Many areas have local crayfish, and we love to use our own variety, but Louisiana crayfish are another excellent option. Make sure they’re all alive when you buy them.
These make a really unusual passed appetizer, but they’re also great at an outdoor party, heaped in a huge pile with corn on the cob and small red potatoes on the side.
Court Bouillon
1½ gallons water
1 onion, sliced
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
1 stalk celery, sliced
1 stalk lemongrass, sliced (optional)
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 lemon, halved
1 head garlic, halved crosswise
¼ cup salt
Thai Chili Mayonnaise
½ to 1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste (depending on how hot you like it)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 cup mayonnaise
4 pounds live crayfish
Garnish
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
4 fresh cilantro sprigs
TO MAKE THE COURT BOUILLON, combine all the ingredients in a large stockpot. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes. Strain and return to the pot. Bring to a simmer.
MEANWHILE, TO MAKE THE MAYONNAISE, whisk together the curry paste, sugar, and soy sauce in a small bowl until smooth. Whisk in the mayonnaise. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
TO CLEAN THE CRAYFISH, carefully pick each one up by grabbing it between the tail and body. If it’s alive, it will raise its claws. Discard any that don’t move. Scrub each with a kitchen brush under running water, especially the legs and under the tail. Grab the middle tail fin, twist it 180 degrees, and gently pull. This will remove the sandy intestinal tract. Throw that part away and place the cleaned crayfish in another bowl. Repeat to clean the remaining crayfish.
TO COOK THE CRAYFISH, boil them in the simmering court bouillon for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and immerse in a bowl of ice water until cool; drain again. Split each crayfish in half lengthwise.
TO SERVE AS A PASSED APPETIZER, arrange the crayfish in a single layer, claws facing out, on a large platter. Drizzle the mayonnaise over the cray-fish, sprinkle with the sesame seeds and chives, and garnish with cilantro sprigs.
TO SERVE AS A FIRST COURSE, divide among 4 plates in a single layer, claws facing out. Drizzle the mayonnaise over the crayfish, then sprinkle with the sesame seeds and chives. Garnish each plate with a cilantro sprig.
Foie Gras Terrine with Pear Chutney on Toast
Foie Gras Terrine with Pear Chutney on Toast
Makes 48 appetizers
This is about the most decadent dish you can make—expensive, but worth every penny. Spread it on small toast points to pass, or serve half-inch slices as a first course with a few thin baguette croutons or toast points on each plate. This recipe uses a whole foie gras, but you could halve the recipe if you don’t need as many appetizers.
1 whole grade A foie gras (about 1½ pounds)
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
1½ teaspoons Cognac
1½ teaspoons bourbon
Pear Chutney
2 Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into ⅓-inch dice
2 tablespoons dry black currants
½ cup verjus
4 teaspoons sugar
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
12 (¼-inch-thick) slices of brioche or egg bread, 4 inches by 4 inches
TO MAKE THE TERRINE, devein the foie gras. Spread the foie gras out on a nonreactive baking sheet pan. Mix together the salt, pepper, sugar, and nutmeg in a small bowl, then sprinkle evenly over the foie gras. Sprinkle with the Cognac and bourbon, then gently mix together with your hands. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, let the foie gras come to room temperature for about 2 hours, or until soft.
Preheat the oven to 250°.
Tightly pack the foie gras into a 6 by 3 by 2-inch terrine mold. Cover with the mold’s lid. Place the terrine in a 110° water bath, then place it in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the terrine has released about 2 tablespoons of fat. Remove it from the oven and the water bath. Using a large spoon, transfer the melted fat from the top of the terrine to a bowl. Refrigerate the fat. Let the terrine cool to room temperature.
Cover the terrine loosely with plastic wrap. Cut a doubled cardboard piece to fit inside the terrine mold and place 2 pounds of weight evenly on top of the cardboard. Refrigerate the terrine overnight.
The next day, remove the weights, cardboard, and plastic wrap. Transfer any fat that is still on the top of the terrine to the bowl with the other fat. Smooth the top of the terrine and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the foie gras fat in a small sauté pan over very low heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Let cool to 100° to 95°. Pour over the top of the foie gras terrine, making sure the whole surface is covered evenly with the fat to keep the terrine from oxidizing. Refrigerate until the fat is set, then cover with plastic wrap. The terrine can be kept refrigerated for up to 1 week; keep any cut edges covered with plastic wrap.
TO MAKE THE CHUTNEY, combine all the ingredients in a small sauté pan over medium heat and cook, stirring gently, until almost all the liquid has evaporated and the pear is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.
TO SERVE, preheat the oven to 350°. Cut the crusts off the bread and then cut each slice into 4 triangles. Place the triangles on a rimmed baking sheet pan and toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
Cut the terrine into 12 slices and cut each slice into 4 triangles (dip the knife in hot water before each slice so that it will cut easily and leave a clean edge). Place the foie gras triangles on each of the toast triangles and top with a ¼-teaspoon mound of pear chutney.
How to Use a Water Bath
USING A WATER BATH, OR BAIN-MARIE, MEANS TO PLACE A SAUCE OR INGREDIENT IN A CONTAINER (PAN, BOWL, BAKING DISH, ETC.) IN WATER. IT IS A WAY TO COOK OR KEEP FOOD HOT WITHOUT EXPOSING IT TO DIRECT HEAT, WHICH MIGHT CAUSE IT TO BURN OR SEPARATE. TO MAKE A WATER BATH, FILL A PAN WITH A FEW INCHES OF HOT WATER AND PLACE THE CONTAINER INSIDE THE PAN. DEPENDING ON THE USE, PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO COOK OR ON THE STOVE WITH A VERY LOW HEAT TO KEEP WARM.
Salmon and Tuna Tartare on Cucumber Discs with Wasabi Tobiko
Salmon and Tuna Tartare on Cucumber Discs with Wasabi Tobiko
Makes 24 appetizers
1 recipe of Salmon and Tuna Tartare with Spicy Lemon-Ginger Vinaigrette, without the garnish
24 (¼-inch-thick) slices hothouse cucumber
3 teaspoons wasabi tobiko
Make the tartare with the vinaigrette as instructed in the recipe. Mound bite-size portions (about 1½ tablespoons) of the tartare on top of the cucumber slices. Top with ⅛ teaspoon wasabi tobiko. Place the disks on a platter.
Miyagi Oysters in Ponzu
Miyagi Oysters in Ponzu
Makes 24 appetizers
Follow the recipe. To serve, place the oysters on one large platter rather than 4 individual plates.
Wild Mushroom and Smoked Bacon Vol-au-Vent
Wild Mushroom and Smoked Bacon Vol-au-Vent
Makes 24 appetizers
1 recipe of Wild Mushroom and Smoked Bacon Vol-au-Vent
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
When cutting out the puff pastry for the vol-au-vents, roll out the pastry as directed, and instead use a 2-inch pastry cutter to make 24 discs. Next, use a ¼-inch cutter and lightly press into the center of each disc. Do not press through, just halfway. Brush the egg wash on the discs and bake as instructed. Remove from the oven and let cool. Using a sharp paring knife, carefully cut out the middle circle and set aside. Push down slightly on the inside of each pastry to make a little pocket. When making the sauce as directed, slice the mushrooms a little smaller so they will fit inside the pastry. Spoon the sauce into each vol-au-vent, sprinkle with chives, and top each with the pastry circle, like a hat.
Goat Cheese and Artichoke Spring Rolls
Goat Cheese and Artichoke Spring Rolls
Makes 24 appetizers
1½ recipes Goat Cheese and Artichoke Spring Rolls
24 pieces tomato concassée
24 (1-inch-long) pieces chive (about 3 to 4 chives)
Make the spring rolls as instructed in the recipe. Cut each spring roll in half and stand on a platter with the cut sides facing up (you may need to trim a small amount off the bottom to get them to stand). Top each spring roll with a piece of the tomato concassée and garnish with a chive piece so it is sticking out from the top of each spring roll.
SOUPS
Tomato-Beet Gazpacho
Tomato-Beet Gazpacho
Serves 4
Here’s an easy chilled soup to make in the summer, when the weather is hot and tomatoes are at their best. The beets give it a shocking magenta color and a deep, sweet flavor. Make it early in the day or even a day ahead so the flavors blend and develop. Tomatoes vary widely in acidity, so adjust the vinegar according to your own taste. This soup is beautiful served in glass bowls.
½ cup torn white bread with no crust
1 cup water
3 cups coarsely chopped ripe tomatoes
½ cup coarsely chopped cooked and peeled red beets
Pinch of minced garlic
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
Sherry wine vinegar to taste (adjust the amount depending on the acidity of the tomatoes)
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon ¼-inch-diced cucumber
1 tablespoon ¼-inch-diced sweet onion
1 tablespoon ¼-inch-diced yellow pepper
4 fresh cilantro sprigs
½ teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
TO MAKE THE GAZPACHO, soak the bread in the water to soften. In a blender, puree the tomato, beets, garlic, and the bread and water until smooth. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve to remove the seeds and skins from the tomatoes. Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in the olive oil and vinegar. Season with the cayenne, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate until well chilled.
TO SERVE, combine the cucumber, onion, and bell pepper in a small bowl. Divide the soup among 4 chilled shallow bowls and top each serving with a mound of the vegetable mixture. Garnish with a cilantro sprig and drizzle with the olive oil.
Chanterelle Mushroom and Lentil Soup with Sautéed Foie Gras
Serves 4
The earthy fall flavors of lentils, mushrooms, and truffle oil make this soup hearty and soothing. The foie gras adds a really special touch, but if you don’t want to use it, don’t let that stop you from serving the soup on its own with warm crusty bread.
Soup
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon minced garlic
½ cup finely chopped onion
6 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced
½ cup green French lentils (lentilles de Puy)
4 cups chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sautéed Foie Gras
8 ounces grade A foie gras, cut into 4 (½-inch-thick) slices
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour for dusting
½ teaspoon clarified butter
Garnish
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
½ teaspoon white truffle oil
Pinch of sea salt
TO MAKE THE SOUP, preheat the oven to 350°. In an ovenproof casserole over medium heat, melt the butter, add the garlic and onion, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, or until light brown. Add the mushrooms and sauté 2 to 3 minutes longer. Add the lentils and stock. Bring to a boil, skim off any foam that develops, and season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and place the casserole in the oven. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the lentils are very soft. Puree the soup in a blender. Return the soup to the casserole. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Set aside and keep hot, or reheat before serving.
When the soup is ready to serve, sauté the foie gras: Season it with salt and pepper, then dust with flour. Heat a heavy, medium skillet over high heat until it starts to smoke, then decrease the heat to low and add the clarified butter. Swirl the butter around in the skillet to evenly distribute it, and immediately add the foie gras. Sauté for about 20 seconds per side, or until golden brown (the foie gras will smoke a lot while cooking). Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the foie gras to paper towels to drain. Serve immediately.
TO SERVE, ladle the hot soup into 4 warmed bowls. Place a slice of foie gras in the center of each bowl of soup. Sprinkle with chives and a drizzle of white truffle oil. Sprinkle a tiny amount of sea salt directly on the foie gras.
Crème Vichyssoise with Caviar
Serves 4
Vichyssoise didn’t originate in Vichy, or even in France. It was actually invented in New York in 1917 by a French chef at the Ritz-Carlton hotel. We just thought you’d like to know. We garnish our version with caviar, but it’s great “straight up” as well. You can make a lighter version by substituting milk or half-and-half for some or all of the heavy cream.
The consistency of this soup will vary depending on the chicken stock you use. Canned broth is less gelatinous than homemade stock when chilled and will produce a thinner soup, so if you use canned broth, increase the amount of potato. Crème Vichyssoise is always served chilled, but this soup is incredible served hot. Just adjust the thickness with chicken stock and omit the caviar.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
⅔ cup sliced leek (white part only), rinsed and drained well
11 ounces peeled and thinly sliced Yukon Gold or russet potatoes (about 2 cups)
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Caviar, as much as you can afford (hopefully 4 teaspoons or more)
TO MAKE THE SOUP, in a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter, add the leek, and sauté the leek for 2 to 3 minutes, or until tender but not browned. Add the potatoes and sauté 2 to 3 minutes longer, until tender but not browned. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that develops, then lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 20 minutes. Add the cream and return to a boil. Transfer the soup to a food processor and puree until smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool, then refrigerate until chilled. Adjust the consistency of the soup before serving: If it is too thick, whisk in a little milk (but not too much, as you want the caviar to sit on top of the soup).
TO SERVE, ladle the soup into 4 chilled bowls. Sprinkle with chopped chives and garnish with as large a dollop of caviar as you like placed in the center of the soup.
Sopa de Ajo (Spicy Bread and Garlic Soup with Poached Eggs)
Sopa de Ajo (Spicy Bread and Garlic Soup with Poached Eggs)
Serves 4
Late one night when we came home tired and hungry from the restaurant, Hiro disappeared into the kitchen, and ten minutes later, he emerged with this most amazing soup. It was as if he had whipped it up out of nothing. It’s rich and garlicky and you probably have everything to make it in your kitchen right now. If you don’t lov
e garlic as much as we do, just use a little less. We finish the soup with the egg in small sauté pans, but you can use any ovenproof bowl, soup crock, or small soufflé dish. At the table, tell everybody to stir the egg right into the soup to enrich it.
Croutons
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ teaspoon minced garlic
½ baguette, cut into ¾-inch dice (about 2 cups)
½ teaspoon paprika
Soup
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon paprika
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
5 cups chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
TO MAKE THE CROUTONS, preheat the oven to 350°. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a bowl, add the diced bread, and toss until well coated. Transfer to a baking sheet pan and bake until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Return the croutons to the bowl, sprinkle with the paprika, and toss well.
TO MAKE THE SOUP, heat the olive oil and garlic in a large saucepan over medium heat until the garlic is lightly browned. Remove from the heat and quickly stir in the paprika and cayenne so they do not burn and taste bitter. Immediately add the stock and bring to a boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
Terra : Cooking from the Heart of Napa Valley (9780307815323) Page 8
