Walking the Nile

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Walking the Nile Page 32

by Levison Wood

Lake Victoria, ref1 passim

  first exploitation of, for travel and industry, ref1

  jagged islands in, ref1

  and Nile Perch, ref1

  Owen Falls Dam, ref1

  shell-fish miners at, ref1

  Speke and Grant discover, ref1

  and Speke’s source-of-Nile claim, ref1

  thick forests fringing, ref1, ref2

  Tutsi corpses in, ref1

  Lakes State, ref1, ref2

  Leila (yoga teacher), ref1

  ‘Levison Tembula’ rap, ref1

  Libya, and second Sudanese Civil War, ref1

  Livingstone, Dr David, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  and 1864 Nile debate, ref1

  Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA), ref1

  LRA, see Lord’s Resistance Army

  Luxor, ref1, ref2

  massacre in, ref1

  Temple of, ref1

  Mabira Forest, ref1

  Machar, Dr Riek, ref1, ref2

  Madi people, ref1, ref2

  author and Boston become part of, ref1

  Mahir, Mazar, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Mahir, Moez:

  annoyance of, over Meroe Dam, ref1

  artist-trained, ref1

  author engages, ref1

  author introduced to, ref1

  and author’s birthday, ref1

  Bayuda Desert history explained by, ref1

  and bicycles, ref1

  campaigning of, ref1

  departure of, ref1

  description of, ref1, ref2

  desert coral finds of, ref1

  desert stoicism of, ref1

  gold’s availability explained by, ref1

  and haboob, ref1

  Kerma pottery find of, ref1

  love of country expressed by, ref1

  and Meroe pyramids, ref1, ref2

  reunited with brother and mother, ref1

  and rock carvings, ref1

  security alert of, ref1

  volcanoes explained by, ref1

  Malakal, ref1, ref2

  Mallory, George, ref1

  Mama Fina, ref1, ref2

  Martin (porter), ref1

  Boston’s religious conversations with, ref1, ref2

  Masindi, ref1

  rape and child abduction in, ref1

  Matthews, W., ref1

  Mau Mau, ref1

  Maureen (ranger), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Mbutu Sese Seko, ref1, ref2

  Memphis, temple at, ref1

  Men’s Journal, ref1

  Meredith, Pete, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Meroe, ref1

  Meroe Dam, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Miller, Ken, ref1

  Min, ref1

  Minkaman, ref1

  Mokattam, ref1

  monkeys:

  colobus, ref1, ref2

  vervets, ref1; see also Florence

  Morsi, Mohammed, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6

  see also Egypt

  Moses (in Kasansero), ref1

  Moses (ranger), ref1, ref2

  and Power’s hyperthermia attack, ref1

  Mostafa Gen. Yousry, ref1

  Mubarak, Hosni, ref1, ref2

  headquarters of, ref1

  Mugisha, Matthias, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5

  on AIDS, ref1

  Mundari, ref1

  Murchison Falls National Park, ref1

  dwindling wildlife numbers in, ref1

  Murchison, Sir Roderick, ref1, ref2

  Museveni, Yoweri, ref1

  Muslim Brotherhood, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Napata, ref1

  Nefertari, Queen, ref1

  Nero, Emperor, ref1, ref2

  New Vision, ref1, ref2

  Ngumbirwa, King, ref1

  Nile:

  and Aswan High Dam, see Aswan High Dam

  as confluence, ref1

  and deforestation, ref1

  Delta, ref1

  largest manmade influence on, ref1; see also Aswan High Dam

  Sai Island in, ref1

  seismic testing along, ref1

  six cataracts of, ref1

  source of:

  Baker’s claim for, ref1

  and Fountain of the Four Rivers, ref1

  Nyungwe Forest declared to be, ref1

  speculation surrounding, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Speke’s claim for, ref1

  see also Blue Nile; White Nile

  Nile Perch, ref1

  Nile River Explorers (NRE), ref1

  Nile River Festival, ref1

  ‘Nile Special’ (rapid), ref1, ref2

  Nilotic Lwo, ref1

  Nimule, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Nimule National Park, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Nub Kush, ref1

  Nuba mountains, ref1, ref2

  Nubia, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5

  Napata, ref1

  Nubian Front, ref1

  Nyakumba, ref1

  Nyanuba, Mwalimu Ndoole, ref1

  Nyere, Julius, ref1, ref2

  Nymanzi, ref1

  Nyungwe Forest, ref1, ref2

  Kandt declares source of Nile, ref1

  Nzadi, ref1

  Obote, Milton, ref1

  Omdurman, ref1, ref2

  Battle of, ref1, ref2

  Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2

  Osama (hunter), ref1

  Owen Falls Dam, ref1

  Owino market, ref1

  Patrick (of Conservation Fund), ref1

  Pawar, ref1

  Power, Matt, ref1 passim, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7, ref8

  hyperthermia suffered by, ref1

  and death, ref1

  return of body of, ref1

  Pyramids, ref1, ref2

  Rabaa Massacre, ref1

  Rafaj Hill, ref1

  Ramadan, ref1, ref2

  Ramesses II, ref1, ref2

  Rashid, ref1

  Rashid/Rosetta, ref1

  Red Cross, ref1, ref2

  Red Pepper, ref1, ref2

  Red Sea resorts, ref1

  Renk, ref1

  Ripon Falls, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Roosevelt, Franklin, ref1

  Rosetta Stone, ref1

  Royal Geographical Society (RGS), ref1, ref2, ref3

  Rusumo Falls, ref1

  Rwanda:

  civil war in, ref1

  genocide in, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4; see also Genocide Memorial Centre, Rwanda

  imprisoned agents of, ref1

  and Rusumo Falls, ref1

  Gisovu, ref1

  prison in, ref1

  heavy policing in, ref1

  and human rights, ref1

  Kigali, ref1, ref2 passim

  boom-town status of, ref1

  as centre of genocide, ref1, ref2

  Genocide Memorial Centre in, ref1

  Kandt founds, ref1

  Natural History Museum in, ref1

  umuganda custom in, ref1

  land use in, ref1

  Nyungwe Forest, ref1, ref2

  Kandt declares source of Nile, ref1

  Nzadi, ref1

  Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), ref1, ref2

  Sahara:

  and Bayuda Desert, see Bayuda Desert

  coral found in, ref1

  Eastern, ref1

  ocean and savannah past of, ref1

  thunderstorm in, ref1

  Salaah (driver), ref1

  Salafism, ref1

  Seguya, Col. Andrew, ref1

  seismic testing, ref1

  Selim (porter), ref1, ref2

  Severino (ranger), ref1 passim

  Sheffield Steel, ref1

  Shendi, ref1

  Silk Road, ref1

  Simon (ranger), ref1

  Siraje (porter), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5 passim, ref1

  Sirillo (Mundari tribesman), ref1

  Sisi, Abdel Fattah el-, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  see also Egypt

  slavery, ref1, ref2

  smuggling, ref1, ref2<
br />
  Somalia, Burton and Speke in, ref1

  Sorry, ref1

  Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2

  South Sudan:

  Ayod, ref1

  Bentiu, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Bor, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  conflict in, ref1, ref2

  gunfire-raked cathedral in, ref1

  South Sudan Hotel, ref1, ref2, ref3

  UN compound in, ref1, ref2, ref3

  conflict in, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7

  refugees from, ref1, ref2

  ethnic and cultural mix in, ref1

  independence gained by, ref1

  Jonglei State, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Juba, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  arrest in, ref1

  Bedouin Lodge, ref1, ref2, ref3

  conflict in, ref1, ref2

  Jebel, ref1

  Rafaj Hill, ref1

  Lakes State, ref1, ref2

  Malakal, ref1, ref2

  Minkaman, ref1

  Mundari tribe in, ref1

  Nimule, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Nuer people of, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Renk, ref1

  secret police in, ref1

  Sudd, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6

  Terekeka, ref1

  Unity, ref1

  Unity State, ref1, ref2

  Upper Nile State, ref1

  see also Sudan People’s Liberation Army; Sudan, Republic of

  Speke (camel), ref1, ref2

  on finding water, ref1

  and need for water, ref1

  Speke, John Hanning, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6

  camel named after, ref1

  death of, ref1

  discovery of Nile’s source claimed by, ref1

  and 1864 Nile debate, ref1

  in Somalia, ref1

  Sphinx, ref1, ref2

  SPLA (Sudan People’s Liberation Army), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5

  see also South Sudan

  Stafford, Ed, ref1

  Stanley, Henry Morton, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  Stoke-on-Trent Ceramic, ref1

  Sudan People’s Liberation Army (SPLA), ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5

  see also South Sudan

  Sudan, Republic of:

  Atbarah, ref1

  author’s previous visit to, ref1

  Bayuda Desert, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  haboob in, ref1

  thunderstorm in, ref1

  volcanoes in, ref1

  water found in, ref1

  Darfur, ref1

  Dongola, ref1

  Eastern Sahara, ref1

  hospitality extended in, examples of, ref1

  and human rights, ref1

  Jebel Barkal mountain, ref1

  Kadabas, ref1

  Karima, ref1

  Kerma, ref1

  Kerreri, ref1

  Khartoum, ref1, ref2

  Acropole Hotel in, ref1, ref2

  cultural diversity in, ref1

  modern nature of, ref1

  origins of, ref1

  siege of, ref1, ref2, ref3

  and slave trade, ref1

  Korti, ref1

  Kosti, ref1

  Meroe, ref1

  Meroe Dam, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Nuba mountains, ref1, ref2

  Omdurman, ref1, ref2

  Battle of, ref1, ref2

  Souq al-Muwelih, ref1, ref2

  Shendi, ref1

  Sorry, ref1

  stamp left on, by British, ref1

  Wadi Halfa, ref1, ref2, ref3

  party’s welcome in, ref1

  see also South Sudan

  Sudan, South, see South Sudan

  Sudanese Civil Wars:

  first, ref1

  second, ref1, ref2

  Sudd, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6

  Tahrir Square, ref1

  Tanganyika, ref1

  Zanzibar joins, to create Tanzania, ref1

  Tanganyika African National Union, ref1

  Tanganyika Ground Nut Scheme, ref1

  Tanzania:

  chequered history of, ref1

  creation of, ref1

  Kagera region, ref1

  Kagera river, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Kimisi Game Reserve, ref1

  Kiswahili only language to be spoken in, ref1

  languages banned in, ref1

  Nyere’s reforms in, ref1

  Terekeka, ref1

  Thebes, ref1

  Trowbridge, R.A., ref1

  ‘Turbo’ (Mahmood Ezzeldin), ref1, ref2 passim, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Tutsis, and Rwandan genocide, see Rwanda: genocide in

  Uganda:

  Adjumani, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4

  and AIDS:

  first reported case of, ref1

  rapid spread of, ref1

  Ajai Wildlife Reserve, ref1

  Amin and Obote cripple economy of, ref1

  Amin’s rule in, see Amin, Idi

  Arua, ref1, ref2

  Boston sings praises of, ref1

  Buwama, ref1

  Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, ref1

  civil war in, ref1

  colonial times of, fondness for, ref1

  elephant numbers in, ref1

  English as first language of, ref1

  Entebbe, ref1

  first democratic elections in, ref1

  Jinja, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5

  Nile River Festival in, ref1

  Ripon Falls, ref1, ref2, ref3

  Kabaka Yekka in, ref1

  Kampala:

  Ahmadiyya Central Mosque, ref1

  AIDS reaches, ref1

  arrival in, ref1

  children sold to witches in, ref1

  description of, ref1

  ethnic and cultural mix in, ref1

  Hotel Le Bougainviller, ref1

  Nakasero Market in, ref1

  Owino market in, ref1

  urban sprawl of, ref1

  Karuma, ref1

  Kasansero, ref1, ref2

  and AIDS, ref1, ref2

  Kiga, ref1

  Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) in, ref1

  Masindi, ref1

  rape and child abduction in, ref1

  Murchison Falls National Park, ref1, ref2

  dwindling wildlife numbers in, ref1

  Falls in, ref1

  and Nile Perch, ref1

  Nyakumba, ref1

  Nymanzi, ref1

  Pawar, ref1

  People’s Congress (UPC) in, ref1

  and second Sudanese Civil War, ref1

  and seismic testing, ref1

  several kingdoms exist in, ref1

  shadowy security forces of, ref1

  South Sudan refugees in, ref1

  troops sent to South Sudan by, ref1

  unemployment rife in, ref1

  wooden bicycles in, ref1

  Uganda Conservation Fund, ref1

  Uganda People’s Congress (UPC), ref1

  Uganda Wildlife Authority, ref1

  Ugandan Civil Aviation Authority, ref1

  Ugandan Wildlife Education Centre, ref1

  umuganda, ref1

  United States of America, troops sent to South Sudan by, ref1

  Unity, ref1

  Unity State, ref1

  Valley of the Kings, ref1

  Vantini, Giovanni, ref1

  Vianey (porter), ref1, ref2, ref3

  Victoria, Queen, ref1

  Vidin, ref1

  Wadi Halfa, ref1, ref2, ref3

  party’s welcome in, ref1

  Waterworks of Birmingham, ref1

  White Nile, ref1, ref2, ref3, ref4, ref5, ref6, ref7

  see also Nile

  William (at Heritage Lodge), ref1

  Yasser (Cairo Copt), ref1

  Zamalek, ref1

  Zanzibar, Tanganyika joins, to create Tanzania, ref1

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  Levison Wood is a writer and explorer. Having travelled in over 80 countries,
he documents the journeys of tribal peoples and minority groups around the world. He served as an officer in the British Army Parachute Regiment, with operational experience in Afghanistan and training missions around the world. His expeditions have taken him from the deserts of North Africa, to the mountains of Central Asia and the jungles of South America. He is a co-founder of Secret Compass, has led pioneering treks across Madagascar and Iraq, and is the first man to attempt to walk the length of the Nile. Levison is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and International Fellow of the Explorers Club. He was born in Staffordshire in 1982 and educated at the University of Nottingham and the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst.

  LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

  1. The furthest source of the Nile in the Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda

  2. Rwanda, land of a thousand hills

  3. The Nyabarongo River cuts a swathe through Rwanda. The source of the Nile remains contested

  4. Photographs of the victims of the Rwandan genocide fill the Kigali genocide museum

  5. Gisovu Prison. A million people were killed during a 100 day period in 1994

  6. Children shelter from rain in a Rwandan village. Outside of Kigali the country remains desperately impoverished

  7. Ndoole Boston walked with me as guide and translator from December 2013 until March 2014

  8. With Boston resting in Tanzania

  9. The remains of Christmas lunch alongside Lake Bisongu in Tanzania

  10. Lake Bisongu in the wild bandit country of Kagera, north-west Tanzania

  11. Much of the journey was spent wild camping

  12. The remains of a 6 metre Python killed by villagers on the shores of Lake Victoria after it ate a prized goat

  13. Camping near to villages in Uganda always invited a curious crowd

  14. Water, not always accessible from the Nile due to stagnant swamps, is a precious commodity in rural Uganda. People travel huge distances to find a well

  15. A typical Ugandan village scene

 

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