And now the melodious clangor of bells from church towers summons their several flocks to the fold. Forth issues from his mansion the family of the decent tradesman; the small children in the advance; then the citizen and his comely spouse, followed by the grown up daughters, with small morocco bound prayerbooks laid in the folds of their pocket-handkerchiefs. The housemaid looks after them from the window, admiring the finery of the family, and receiving, perhaps, a nod and smile from her young mistresses, at whose toilette she has assisted.
Now rumbles along the carriage of some magnate of the city; peradventure an Alderman or a Sheriff; and now the patter of many feet announces a procession of charity scholars in uniforms of antique cut, and each with a prayerbook under his arm.
The ringing of bells is at an end; the rumbling of the carriage has ceased; the pattering of feet is heard no more: the flocks are folded in ancient churches cramped up in bye lanes and comers of the crowded city; where the vigilant beadle keeps watch, like the shepherd’s dog, round the threshhold of the sanctuary. For a time every thing is hushed; but soon is heard the deep pervading sound of the organ, rolling and vibrating through the empty lanes and courts; and the sweet chaunting of the choir making them resound with melody and praise. Never have I been more sensible of the sanctifying effect of church music than when I have heard it thus poured forth, like a river of joy through the inmost recesses of this great metropolis, cleansing it, as it were, from all the sordid pollutions of the week; and bearing the poor world worn soul on a tide of triumphant harmony to heaven.
The morning service is at an end. The streets are again alive with the congregations returning to their homes, but soon again relapse into silence. Now comes on the Sunday dinner, which to the city tradesman, is a meal of some importance. There is more leisure for social enjoyment at the board. Members of the family can now gather together, who are separated by the laborious occupations of the week. A school boy may be permitted on that day to come to the paternal home; an old friend of the family takes his accustomed Sunday seat at the board, tells over his well known stories and rejoices young and old with his well known jokes.
On Sunday afternoon the city pours forth its legions to breathe the fresh air and enjoy the sunshine of the parks and rural environs. Satyrists may say what they please about the rural enjoyments of a London citizen on Sunday, but to me there is something delightful in beholding the poor prisoner of the crowded and dusty city enabled thus to come forth once a week and throw himself upon the green bosom of nature. He is like a child restored to the mother’s breast; and they who first spread out these noble parks and magnificent pleasure grounds which surround this huge metropolis, have done at least as much for its health and morality as if they had expended the amount of cost in hospitals, prisons and penitentiaries.
THE BOAR’S HEAD TAVERN, EAST CHEAP
A Shakespearian Research
A tavern is the rendezvous, the Exchange, the staple of good fellows. I have heard my great grandfather tell, how his great, great grandfather should say, that it was an old proverb when his great grandfather was a child, that “it was a good wind that blew a man to the wine.”
MOTHER BOMBIE.
It is a pious custom in some Catholic countries to honour the memory of saints, by votive lights burnt before their pictures. The popularity of a saint, therefore, may be known by the number of these offerings. One perhaps is left to moulder in the darkness of his little chapel; another may have a solitary lamp to throw its blinking rays athwart his effigy; while the whole blaze of adoration is lavished at the shrine of some beatified father of renown. The wealthy devotee brings his huge luminary of wax, the eager zealot his seven branched candlestick, and even the mendicant pilgrim is by no means satisfied that sufficient light is thrown upon the deceased, unless he hang up his little lamp of smoking oil. The consequence is, that in the eagerness to enlighten they are often apt to obscure; and I have occasionally seen an unlucky saint, almost smoked out of countenance by the officiousness of his followers.
In like manner has it fared with the immortal Shakespeare. Every writer considers it his bounden duty to light up some portion of his character or works, and to rescue some merit from oblivion. The commentator, opulent in words, produces vast tomes of dissertations; the common herd of editors send up mists of obscurity from their notes at the bottom of each page, and every casual scribbler brings his farthing rush light of eulogy or research, to swell the cloud of incense and of smoke.
As I honour all established usages of my brethren of the quill, I thought it but proper to contribute my mite of homage to the memory of the illustrious bard. I was for some time, however, sorely puzzled in what way I should discharge this duty. I found myself anticipated in every attempt at a new reading; every doubtful line had been explained a dozen different ways and perplexed beyond the reach of elucidation; and as to fine passages, they had all been amply praised by previous admirers; nay, so completely had the bard of late been overlarded with panegyrick by a great German critick, that it was difficult now to find even a fault that had not been argued into a beauty.
In this perplexity I was one morning turning over his pages, when I casually opened upon the comic scenes of Henry the Fourth, and was in a moment completely lost in the mad cap revelry of the Boar’s head Tavern. So vividly and naturally are these scenes of humour depicted, and with such force and consistency are the characters sustained, that they become mingled up in the mind with the facts and personages of real life. To few readers does it occur that these are all ideal creations of a poet’s brain, and that, in sober truth, no such knot of merry roysters ever enlivened the dull neighbourhood of East cheap.
For my part I love to give myself up to the illusions of poetry. A Hero of fiction who never existed, is just as valuable to me as a hero of history who existed a thousand years since; and, if I may be excused such an insensibility to the common ties of human nature, I would not give up fat Jack, for half the great men of ancient chronicle. What have the heroes of yore done for me, or men like me?—They have conquered countries of which I do not enjoy an acre—or they have gained laurels of which I do not inherit a leaf—or they have furnished examples of hairbrained prowess, which I have neither the opportunity nor the inclination to follow. But old Jack Falstaff!—kind Jack Falstaff!—sweet Jack Falstaff!—has enlarged the boundaries of human enjoyment; he has added vast regions of wit and good humour, in which the poorest man may revel; and has bequeathed a never failing inheritance of jolly laughter to make mankind merrier and better to the latest posterity.
A thought suddenly struck me—“I will make a pilgrimage to East cheap,” said I, closing the book, “and see if the old Boar’s head Tavern still exists. Who knows but I may light upon some legendary traces of Dame Quickly and her guests; at any rate, there will be a kindred pleasure in treading the halls once vocal with their mirth, to that the toper enjoys, in smelling to the empty cask, once filled with generous wine.”
The resolution was no sooner formed than put in execution. I forbear to treat of the various adventures and wonders I encountered in my travels—of the haunted regions of Cock-lane-of the faded glories of Little Britain and the parts adjacent; what perils I ran in Cateaton Street and Old Jewry; of the renowned Guildhall and its two stunted Giants, the pride and wonder of the city and the terror of all unlucky urchins—and how I visited London Stone and struck my staff upon it in imitation of that arch rebel Jack Cade.
Let it suffice to say, that I at length arrived in merry East cheap, that ancient region of wit and wassail, where the very names of the streets relished of good cheer, as Pudding Lane bears testimony even at the present day. For East cheap says old Stow, “was always famous for its convivial doings. The cookes cried hot ribbes of beef rosted, pies well baked and other victuals: there was clattering of pewter pots, harpe, pipe and sawtrie.” Alas! how sadly is the scene changed since the roaring days of Falstaff and old Stow. The mad cap royster has given place to the plodding tradesman—the clatt
ering of pots and the sound of “harp and sawtry” to the din of carts and the accursed dinging of the dustman’s bell; and no song is heard save haply the strain of some syren from Billingsgate chaunting the eulogy of deceased mackrel.
I sought in vain for the ancient abode of Dame Quickly. The only relique of it is a boar’s head carved in relief in stone, which formerly served as the sign, but at present is built into the parting line of two houses which stand on the scite of the renowned old Tavern.
For the history of this little empire of good fellowship I was referred to a Tallow chandler’s widow opposite, who had been born and brought up on the spot, and was looked up to as the indisputable chronicler of the neighbourhood. I found her seated in a little back parlour, the window of which looked out upon a yard about eight feet square, laid out as a flower garden; while a glass door opposite afforded a distant peep of the street through a vista of soap and tallow candles: the two views which comprised in all probability her prospects of life, and the little world in which she had lived, and moved, and had her being, for the better part of a century.
To be versed in the history of East cheap, great and little, from London Stone even unto the Monument, was doubtless in her opinion to be acquainted with the history of the universe. Yet with all this she possessed the simplicity of true wisdom, and that liberal, communicative disposition, which I have generally remarked in intelligent old ladies, knowing in the concerns of their neighbourhood.
Her information, however, did not extend far back into antiquity. She could throw no light upon the history of the Boar’s head from the time that Dame Quickly espoused the valiant Pistol, until the great fire of London, when it was unfortunately burnt down. It was soon rebuilt, and continued to flourish under the old name and sign, until a dying Landlord, struck with remorse for double scores, bad measures, and other iniquities which are incident to the sinful race of Publicans, endeavoured to make his peace with heaven by bequeathing the tavern to St. Michael’s church, Crooked Lane, towards the supporting of a chaplain. For some time the vestry meetings were regularly held there, but it was observed that the old Boar never held up his head under church government. He gradually declined, and finally gave his last gasp about thirty years since. The tavern was then turned into shops, but she informed me that a picture of it was still preserved in St. Michael’s church, which stood just in the rear. To get a sight of this picture was now my determination, so having informed myself of the abode of the sexton I took my leave of the venerable chronicler of East cheap, my visit having doubtless raised greatly her opinion of her legendary lore, and furnished an important incident in the history of her life.
It cost me some difficulty and much curious enquiry to ferret out the humble hanger on to the church. I had to explore Crooked Lane and divers little alleys and elbows and dark passages, with which this old city is perforated, like an ancient cheese, or a worm eaten chest of drawers. At length I traced him to a corner of a small court, surrounded by lofty houses, where the inhabitants enjoy about as much of the face of heaven, as a community of frogs at the bottom of a well. The sexton was a meek acquiescing little man, of a bowing lowly habit; yet he had a pleasant twinkle in his eye, and if encouraged would now and then hazard a small pleasantry, such as a man of his low estate might venture to make in the company of high church wardens, and other mighty men of the earth. I found him in company with the deputy organist, seated apart, like Milton’s angels discoursing no doubt on high doctrinal points, and settling the affairs of the church over a friendly pot of ale—for the lower classes of English seldom deliberate on any weighty matter without the assistance of a cool tankard to clear their understandings. I arrived at the moment when they had finished their ale and their argument, and were about to repair to the church to put it in order, so having made known my wishes I received their gracious permission to accompany them.
The church of St. Michael, Crooked Lane, standing a short distance from Billingsgate, is enriched with the tombs of many Fishmongers of renown, and as every profession has its galaxy of glory and its constellation of great men, I presume the monument of a mighty Fishmonger of the olden time, is regarded with as much reverence by succeeding generations of the craft as poets feel on contemplating the tomb of Virgil, or soldiers the monument of a Marlborough or a Turenne.
I cannot but turn aside, while thus speaking of illustrious men, to observe that St. Michael’s Crooked Lane contains also the ashes of that doughty champion William Walworth, knight, who so manfully clove down the sturdy wight Wat Tyler in Smithfield, a hero worthy of honorable blazon as almost the only Lord Mayor on record, famous for deeds of arms:—the Sovereigns of Cockney being generally renowned, as the most pacific of all potentates. 15
Note
Hereunder lyth a man of Fame
William Walworth callyd by name:
Fishmonger he was in Lyfftime here
And twise Lord Maior, as in Books appere;
Who with courage stout and manly myght
Slew Jackstraw in King Richards syght.
For which act done and trew Entent
The Kyng made him Knyght incontinent;
And gave him armes, as here you see,
To declare his Fact and chivaldrie.
He left this Lyff the yere of our God
Thirteen hondred fourscore and three odd.
An error in the foregoing inscription has been corrected by the venerable Stow—“Whereas,” saith he, “it hath been far spread abroad by vulgar opinion, that the rebel smitten down so manfully by Sir William Walworth, the then worthy Lord Maior was named Jack Straw and not Wat Tyler, I thought good to reconcile this rash conceived doubt by such testimony as I find in ancient and good records. The principal Leaders or captains of the commons were Wat Tyler as the first man; the second was John or Jack Straw &c &c.” Stow’s London.
Adjoining the church, in a small cemetery, immediately under the back windows of what was once the Boar’s head stands the tomb stone of Robert Preston, whilom drawer at the Tavern. It is now nearly a century since this trusty drawer of good liquor closed his bustling career, and was thus quietly deposited within call of his customers. As I was clearing away the weeds from his epitaph the little sexton drew me on one side with a mysterious air, and informed me in a low voice, that once upon a time on a dark wintry night, when the wind was unruly, howling and whistling, banging about doors and windows and twirling weather cocks so that the living were frightened out of their beds and even the dead could not sleep quietly in their graves, the ghost of honest Preston, which happened to be airing itself in the church yard, was attracted by the well known call of “waiter” from the Boar’s head, and made its sudden appearance in the midst of a roaring club, just as the parish clerk was singing a stave from the “mirrie garland of captain Death”—to the discomfiture of sundry train-band captains and the conversion of an infidel attorney, who became a zealous christian on the spot and was never known to twist the truth afterwards except in the way of business.
I beg it may be remembered that I do not pledge myself for the authenticity of this anecdote, though it is well known that the church yards and bye corners of this old metropolis are very much infested with perturbed spirits and every one must have heard of the Cock Lane Ghost, and the apparition that guards the regalia in the Tower, which has frightened so many bold sentinels almost out of their wits.
Be all this as it may, this Robert Preston seems to have been a worthy successor to the nimble tongued Francis who attended upon the revels of Prince Hal, to have been equally prompt with his “anon, anon, sir” and to have transcended his predecessor in honesty, for Falstaff, the veracity of whose taste no man will venture to impeach, flatly accuses Francis of putting lime in his sack: whereas honest Preston’s epitaph lauds him for the sobriety of his conduct, the soundness of his wine and the fairness of his measure,16 The worthy dignitaries of the church, however, did not appear much captivated by the sober virtues of the Tapster; the deputy organist, who had a moi
st look out of the eye, made some shrewd remark on the abstemiousness of a man brought up among full hogsheads, and the little sexton corroborated his opinion by a significant wink and a dubious shake of the head.
Thus far my researches, though they threw much light on the history of Tapsters, Fishmongers and Lord Mayors, yet disappointed me in the great object of my quest, the picture of the Boar’s head Tavern. No such painting was to be found in the church of St. Michael. “Marry and amen!” said I, “here endeth my research!” So I was giving the matter up with the air of a baffled antiquary, when my friend the sexton, perceiving me to be curious in every thing relative to the old Tavern, offered to shew me the choice vessels of the vestry, which had been handed down from remote times, when the parish meetings were held at the Boar’s head. These were deposited in the Parish club room, which had been transferred, on the decline of the ancient establishment, to a tavern in the neighbourhood.
A few steps brought us to the house which stands No. 12. Miles Lane, bearing the title of The Mason’s arms, and is kept by Master Edward Honeyball, the “bully Rock” of the establishment. It is one of those little taverns which abound in the heart of the city and form the centre of gossip and intelligence of the neighbourhood.
We entered the bar room, which was narrow and darkling; for in these close lanes but few rays of reflected light are enabled to struggle down to the inhabitants, whose broad day is at best but a tolerable twilight. The room was partitioned into boxes, each containing a table spread with a clean white cloth ready for dinner. This shewed that the guests were of the good old stamp, and divided their day equally; for it was but just one O’clock. At the lower end of the room was a clear coal fire, before which a breast of lamb was roasting. A row of bright brass candlesticks and pewter mugs glistened along the mantle piece, and an old fashioned clock ticked in one corner. There was something primitive in this medley of Kitchen, Parlour and Hall, that carried me back to earlier times and pleased me. The place indeed was humble, but every thing had that look of order and neatness which bespeaks the superintendance of a notable English housewife. A group of amphibious looking beings, who might be either fishermen or sailors were regaling themselves in one of the boxes. As I was a visitor of rather higher pretensions I was ushered into a little misshapen back room having at least nine corners. It was lighted by a sky light, furnished with antiquated leathern chairs and ornamented with the portrait of a fat pig. It was evidently appropriated to particular customers, and I found a shabby gentleman, in a red nose and oil cloth hat, seated in one corner, meditating on a half empty pot of porter.
Legend of Sleepy Hollow and Other Stories Page 15
