2. Concurrently, when the syrup reaches 230 degrees F, begin beating the egg whites with an electric mixer on medium speed. They should attain soft peaks.
3. When the syrup is ready, with the mixer on low speed, pour the syrup into the egg whites in a gradual, steady stream, being careful not to splash the hot liquid. Increase the speed to high; once the whites have attained full height, turn the mixer to medium speed and continue to beat until the mixture is at room temperature. (Feel the side of the bowl to make sure you do not feel any heat.) Beat in the butter, a little at a time, and the coffee, until the frosting is smooth. Wait until it is room temperature before spreading. If not using immediately, refrigerate, then whisk before using.
THERE ARE CERTAIN UNEXPLAINED MYSTERIES OF THE UNIVERSE: What is the meaning of life? If a tree falls in the forest, can anybody hear it? Why do we continue to watch reality TV? But here’s a sweet mystery that is far more pleasurable to explore: What is the princess torte, and why is it green?
The reason for the unusual color of the cake has stumped pastry chefs for a long time: Perhaps it was the princess’s favorite color?
When we’re talking princess torte, we are not talking about princess cake, that fixture at six-year-old girls’ birthday parties, composed of a severed Barbie doll perched atop a dome of cake covered with frilly buttercream to resemble a dress. No, the cake we’re talking about hails from Sweden, where it’s referred to as Princesstårta. This pinkies-out confection—a pretty dome-shaped cake that’s made of alternating layers of light, airy cake; thick pastry cream; and jam, all topped with a sweet jacket of tinted marzipan—is not as common in bakery cases as say, red velvet cake, but it’s not an exceedingly rare cake either. Most urban areas will have at least a couple of bakeries that offer a version. But perhaps the most striking thing about this cake is how the outer layer of marzipan is nearly always green. Oh, you will see it other ways—you may see it with pink or cream marzipan, or even with chocolate—but most likely it will be green. And a very distinct type of green—sort of an Easter pastel, baby pistachio green.
The reason for the unusual color of the cake has stumped pastry chefs for a long time: Perhaps it was the princess’s favorite color? Perhaps it was colored to reflect the princess’s wedding flowers? Or perhaps green was a color that caught on with the Swedish audience because it represented the hope of spring, like the first gentle blades of grass coming up after a cold, dark winter?
But we can make some educated guesses based on the cake’s past. It had its beginnings in the influential Prinsessornas Kokbok, or “Princesses Cookbook,” published in the 1930s by Jenny Åkerström, the owner of a popular Swedish cooking school. The book, while named for the princesses of the royal family at the time (Margaret, Märtha, and Astrid), is really quite a comprehensive guide to traditional Swedish cuisine. In the dessert chapter, there are a number of elaborate tortes, including three named after each of the princesses. And while today’s princess torte has similarities to each of these cakes, it’s not a definite derivation of any of them. The most striking in physical resemblance is Princess Martha’s special torte: it’s covered with green-tinted marzipan leaves, and topped with a pink flower. In a later holiday spinoff of the book, the dessert offerings evolved to include Grön tårta, or “green cake”; it’s just called princess torte because the princesses were said to have been especially fond of the cake.
Today’s princess torte has evolved a lot since those girls were playing in the royal courtyard. It’s a reflection of the original cakes designed for the princesses, with further liberties taken: a layer of jam added here, nuts removed there. But the green dome, possibly an easier version of that leaf pattern mentioned in the original recipe for Martha’s cake, has stayed in the picture.
Princess Torte
THE PRINCESS TORTE IS TRULY ONE FIT FOR ROYALTY. For ease, consider making this recipe over several days: the cake and custard will both hold for up to three days, wrapped well and stored in your fridge. This recipe is adapted from a recipe in Grey Patent’s A Baker’s Odyssey, which I discovered via Helene Dujardin of TarteletteBlog.com.
Makes one 9-inch layer cake (10 to 12 servings)
One 9-inch Sponge Cake (recipe follows)
2½ cups heavy cream
2¼ cups Custard Filling (recipe follows)
⅓ cup seedless raspberry jam
Confectioners’ sugar, for rolling the marzipan
Marzipan Dome (recipe follows)
A pink flower and pink ribbon, for decoration (optional)
1. Using a serrated knife, cut the cake horizontally into 3 equal layers. Set aside for the moment.
2. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the heavy cream until thick and firm, but not grainy. Transfer one-third of the cream to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate.
3. Remove the chilled custard from the refrigerator and give it a vigorous whisk, as it may have thickened. Make sure it is smooth and creamy before proceeding. Fold the whipped cream that you did not refrigerate into the custard and stir gently until smooth.
4. Set the bottom cake layer, cut side up, on a serving platter. To keep the plate clean as you frost and decorate the cake, you can place parchment paper in strips around the bottom edges of the cake, tucked gently under it—or just clean off the plate before serving.
5. Spread the raspberry jam onto the top of the cake layer, leaving a ¼-inch margin all around. On top of this, spread half of the cream filling. Invert the middle cake layer onto the custard cream, cut side up. Spread the remaining cream filling over this second layer; top with the final layer of cake. Spread about one-quarter of the refrigerated whipped cream in a very thin layer around the sides of the torte. With an offset spatula, evenly spread the remaining whipped cream onto the top of the torte. Remove the paper strips from underneath the torte and refrigerate the torte for about 1 hour. This will help the torte “set” and keep it firm while you add your marzipan topping.
6. Lightly dust a space for rolling with sifted confectioners’ sugar. Place the marzipan on the powdered sugar and dust the top of the marzipan. Roll out the marzipan to ¼ inch thick. Using a brush, dust off any extra confectioners’ sugar.
7. Remove the torte from the refrigerator and gently set the marzipan on top so that it drapes over the torte. Press it gently so it adheres to the sides of the torte, covering it completely. With a sharp knife, trim away any excess marzipan so that the edges are clean.
8. If desired, run a length of pink ribbon around the bottom edge of the torte. Not only does this look pretty, but it covers up any hacking you might have done to the bottom edges of the cake! Place the pink flower on the top of the torte (you could use frosting to make a buttercream flower, too). Refrigerate until ready to serve. When serving, it is helpful to run a sharp knife under hot water and then dry the blade before cutting; this will ensure clean cuts.
9. Store, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
SPONGE CAKE
Makes one 9-inch cake
¾ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup potato starch (found in specialty supermarkets)
½ teaspoon baking powder
4 large eggs, separated
⅛ teaspoon salt
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour the bottom and sides of a 9-by-4-inch springform pan; line the bottom of the pan with a circle of parchment paper.
2. Sift together the flour, potato starch, and baking powder in a small bowl. Set aside.
3. In a stand mixer with a very clean bowl and fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites and salt on medium speed until the whites form stiff, shiny peaks. Transfer to a separate bowl.
4. Wash the bowl and whisk attachment for your electric mixer; use again to beat the egg yolks. Combine the egg yolks and sugar, beating on medium speed until ribbons have formed. Add the egg whites back to the mixing bowl, and beat on low speed until incorporate
d. Remove the bowl from the mixer.
5. Gently fold in the flour mixture in 3 additions, making sure it is fully incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
6. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the side of the cake, release the cake from the pan, and invert onto a wire rack. Let it cool completely before assembling the torte.
CUSTARD FILLING
Makes 2¼ cups filling
½ vanilla bean, scraped with pod
Pinch salt
2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 large eggs
½ cup sugar
1. To make the custard, combine the vanilla bean, seeds, salt, and 1½ cups of the milk in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and sugar. Add the remaining ½ cup milk and whisk until smooth. Add the eggs to the cornstarch mixture and whisk to combine.
3. When the milk comes to a boil, whisk part of it into the egg mixture and then transfer everything to the saucepan, again while whisking. Continue whisking vigorously while the custard thickens and boils for 1 minute. Transfer to another bowl, cover the top of the custard directly with plastic wrap or parchment, and allow to cool completely in the refrigerator.
MARZIPAN DOME
Makes 1½ pounds marzipan
1½ pounds marzipan (found in specialty supermarkets)
Several drops green food coloring
Confectioners’ sugar, for rolling
1. To make the marzipan dome, color a walnut-sized piece of marzipan with the green food coloring until the piece is deep green. Reserve.
2. Using a sifter, dust a work surface with confectioners’ sugar. Knead a small piece of the green marzipan into the remaining uncolored marzipan until it is uniform in color. Add additional pieces from the green marzipan until it achieves a light green color. Discard the leftover deep green marzipan.
3. Keep the marzipan at room temperature if it is to be used within 24 hours. Otherwise, store the marzipan double-wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator.
COMMERCIAL FAVORITES
THEY’RE A SPECIAL PART OF OUR LIVES: those sweet nothings, those prepackaged lunchbox icons that remain beloved into adulthood. Many of these store-bought creations have fascinating stories of invention, ranging from scandalous to sometimes, well, just plain strange. Here’s a celebration of these commercially produced treats, including some home recipes inspired by these classics.
“Animal crackers and cocoa to drink
that is the finest of suppers I think;
when I am grown up and have what I please
I think I shall always insist upon these.”
—ACTOR AND WRITER CHRISTOPHER MORLEY, SONGS FOR A LITTLE HOUSE
EVERYONE LOVES THOSE CURIOUS ANIMAL-SHAPED cookies that pack a crunch and are called “crackers.” But how is it that these proud little animals began marching their way into our mouths and hearts?
The custom of crafting cookies that resemble creatures is nothing new—as early as the 1600s in Germany, bakers were making sweet treats resembling savage beasts.
Well. The custom of crafting cookies that resemble creatures is nothing new—as early as the 1600s in Germany, bakers were making sweet treats resembling savage beasts. But it wasn’t until the 1800s that the wheels began to turn, setting off the chain reaction that made these sweet crackers a snacking staple. For this we owe a thank-you to the industrial revolution: that’s when biscuits, cookies, and crackers began to be manufactured in factories. In Victorian England, “crisp biscuits”—that’s sweet, cracker-like cookies, to Americans—were very popular. Some of these biscuits were shaped like animals.
A hint of things to come was evident when Zoologicals, animal-shaped cookies made by Philadelphia baker Walter G. Wilson, were sold at the Centennial Exposition of 1876—the first world’s fair in America. (This pivotal event yielded many innovations, including the introduction of the Dewey Decimal system, the ice cream soda, and the grand debut of the Statue of Liberty’s torch, before it was affixed to the rest of her body in New York City.)
After acquiring two New York City bakeries that produced animal-shaped biscuits, the National Biscuit Company (later Nabisco) began producing animal-shaped biscuits on a commercial scale which allowed for widespread distribution. Serendipitously, this timing coincided with P. T. Barnum’s growing reputation as an international showman and circus owner. Perhaps sensing a sales opportunity, several companies had begun marketing foods of all sorts with circus-themed packaging, and these biscuits were a natural tie-in. The National Biscuit Company did it most famously, with their 1902 debut of the animal-shaped crackers. Marketed as a specialty holiday item, they were sold in a small box resembling a circus cage with a handle at the top, for displaying as an ornament.
The crackers proved so popular that they were soon being produced year-round, the ornament string promoted as an easy way for children to transport the cookies. In 1948, they were renamed Barnum’s Animal Crackers, which is what they’re still called today. But for all the glittering success of the Barnum association, the circus man did not receive payment for the use of his name: according to an article in the Washington Post, he never got a cent for the crackers.
Animal Crackers
ATTAINING THE DRY, CRACKER-LIKE TEXTURE of commercially produced animal crackers is tough to achieve in a standard home oven. While slightly softer than the original, these biscuits are nonetheless nostalgically delicious.
Makes 6 dozen small cookies
2½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
⅛ teaspoon cinnamon
¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened to cool room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1. In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla, stirring until combined.
3. Add the flour mixture in 3 additions, mixing after each addition just until incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.
4. Form the dough into 2 disks and wrap well with plastic; refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Chilling the dough will ensure that the shapes hold once cut out and that the dough will not spread too much during baking.
5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
6. Allow the cookie dough to warm slightly at room temperature before rolling it. On a floured work surface, use a floured rolling pin to roll the dough to about ¼ inch thick. Use small animal-shaped cutters to cut the dough (of course, other small cutters will work, too). Using a metal spatula, transfer the cookies to the prepared baking sheets. Gather up the dough scraps and re-roll to make more cookies. Leave a small amount of room around each cookie to allow for spreading. If desired, you can use toothpicks to enhance the details on the animals, or add faces.
7. Let the cookies chill (on the baking sheets) in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before baking. This will ensure even further that the dough retains any details you’ve added.
8. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until firm, just lightly brown on the edges, and with a dull finish on top. Let cool on the pan for several minutes, then transfer to a flat surface (they may fall through a wire rack) to cool completely. Store the cookies in an airtight container for up to 7 days.
FASCINATING FACTS ABOUT BARNUM’S ANIMAL CRACKERS
• The designer of the famous circus-themed packaging, Sydney Stern, was an artist hired by Nabisco in 1923; he spent his career designing several of the snack company’s most famous packages, including Animal Cracker
s (which have only changed slightly over the years!), Ritz Crackers, and Shredded Wheat.
• Each machine-filled box is filled at random with 22 biscuits, so you never know what critters your menagerie will contain.
• Per Panati’s Extraordinary Origins of Everyday Things, children across America tend to “nibble away at the animals in definite order of dismemberment: back legs, forelegs, head, and lastly the body.”
• It’s generally accepted that the Animal Crackers’ success is what spurred Nabisco to develop a bevy of other biscuits, including the Oreo.
• In the 1900s, the cost for a box was 4 cents. Today, they cost around $1.49.
AH, GIRL SCOUT COOKIE SEASON: that special time of the year when young girls congregate near store entrances and tempt the hungry and tired with their sweet wares. Somehow, I never seem to be able to escape their earnest sales pitch without committing to buying a dozen boxes. After all, it is for a good cause, and the cookies are nothing short of addictive. But you know, it wasn’t always a business enterprise. Here’s how it went from at-home activity to nationwide phenomenon.
The cookies have pretty much been sold annually, save a few limited-production years during World War II, when sugar, flour, and butter shortages led Girl Scouts to sell calendars to raise money for their activities instead.
In the beginning, cookie baking was a simple activity that Girl Scouts did at home with their mothers. That didn’t last for long, however: within five years after the Girl Scouts of America got its start, selling cookies—the homemade kind—was used as a fundraising method, with very successful results. The tradition only continued to grow, and with it their status as miniature Gordon Gekkos in green plaid skirts.
The Secret Lives of Baked Goods Page 12
