The Secret Lives of Baked Goods

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The Secret Lives of Baked Goods Page 15

by Jessie Oleson Moore


  But back to that young lady from Bryn Mawr. While there’s no transcript of the tea party, let’s just say the student remained at Bryn Mawr and went on to have a very successful career. While it might be a stretch to say the brownies themselves were responsible, certainly they made a sweet contribution to her story. This tale perfectly illustrates Hepburn’s top three principles for a successful life, as chronicled by Liz Smith in her book Dishing: 1. Never quit; 2. Be yourself; 3. Don’t put too much flour in your brownies.

  Katharine Hepburn Brownies

  ENJOY YOUR OWN TASTE OF SWEET SUCCESS with these easy-to-make brownies. They are in no way fussy, and the simple recipe yields fantastic results. And few brownies come with such a great story.

  Makes sixteen 1-inch brownies

  ¼ cup all-purpose flour

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)

  ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, at room temperature

  1 cup sugar

  2 large eggs, lightly beaten

  ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

  1 cup chopped, toasted walnuts (pecans or hazelnuts also work well)

  1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Grease the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan.

  2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour and salt. Set aside.

  3. In a large saucepan over low heat, melt the chocolate and butter, stirring to make sure the chocolate doesn’t stick or burn.

  4. Once melted, remove from the heat and add the sugar, stirring until fully incorporated. Add the eggs and vanilla, beating by hand with a wooden spoon until fully incorporated.

  5. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour mixture until fully incorporated. Fold in the walnuts.

  6. Spoon the batter into your prepared baking pan. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out mostly clean; it is better to err on slightly under—rather than overbaked—this will ensure a chewy texture.

  7. Cool completely. Cut into 16 squares and serve.

  IT’S A LEGENDARY SORT OF COOKIE, dotted with two types of chocolate—morsels and grated—and packed full of nuts and oats. And like the cookie, the tale behind it is the stuff of gossip columns, a fine urban legend indeed. It’s a Robin Hood tale of sorts, a cautionary tale of recipe rights.

  After the legend started circulating, you can bet your bottom dollar they got themselves a cookie recipe. Yes, indeed—they hired a recipe developer to create a cookie in response to the demand created by all the hubbub.

  As the story goes (and there are many variations), a woman and her daughter are keeping up their energy while shopping at Neiman Marcus in Dallas, Texas, by snacking on a cookie in the luxe department store’s café. Impressed, they ask for the recipe; they’re informed that it will come with a “two-fifty” charge, which will be put on the mother’s account. Not bad for a good recipe, right? But as it later turns out, the amount billed is $250, not a mere $2.50. Incensed, Mom photocopies the recipe and shares it with her friends, urging them to share it with their friends, so that the store will never make another penny off this cookie—and, more altruistically, so that its deliciousness might be enjoyed by all.

  Well, as fun a story as it might be—the little guy giving “Needless Markup” the what-for—well, it’s just not true. For one thing, it’s a tale that has been circulated before: it’s famously associated with the Waldorf Astoria hotel and their red velvet cake; also, a variation of the same cookie legend has been attached to Mrs. Fields cookies (much to their chagrin, I’m sure).

  Here’s the real clincher, though—before the emergence of this legend, the department store didn’t sell their own chocolate chip cookies, much less have a recipe to share. But after the legend started circulating, you can bet your bottom dollar they got themselves a cookie recipe. Yes, indeed—they hired a recipe developer to create a cookie in response to the demand created by all the hubbub. Neiman Marcus has published the recipe in one of their cookbooks (which, by the way, retails for less than $250) and has also shared it on their website.

  With the advent of the Internet, the tale has also gone viral via an e-mail titled “Cookie Revenge.”

  That version of the recipe differs from the official Neiman Marcus cookie invented by the store: I, in homage to the Cookie Revenge movement, have created a lightly adapted version of the people’s cookie. It yields a great cookie and a great number of them.

  Urban Legend Cookies

  IN ESSENCE, THIS RECIPE (which I guess I’ll attribute to “the Internet”) is an interesting riff on classic chocolate chip cookies—some would even say it’s an improvement, based solely on the fact that it calls for both semisweet and milk chocolate. What appears to be an alarming amount of chocolate in this recipe actually doesn’t come across as excessive in the final product, so fear not. You may just find yourself wanting to share it via chain letters … thus, continuing the legend.

  Makes 4 dozen 2-inch cookies

  2½ cups oat flour (available at specialty food markets)

  2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

  1 teaspoon baking soda

  1 teaspoon baking powder

  ½ teaspoon salt

  1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

  1 cup granulated sugar

  1 cup packed light brown sugar

  2 large eggs

  1 teaspoon vanilla extract

  One 12-ounce bag (about 1½ cups) semisweet chocolate chips

  6 ounces milk chocolate, grated (about 1 cup)

  1½ cups chopped nuts (your choice)

  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or reuse pans.

  2. In a large bowl, stir together the flours, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

  3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and both sugars on medium-low speed until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes.

  4. Add the eggs, one at a time, pausing after each addition to scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Stir in the vanilla.

  5. Add the flour mixture gradually, in 2 to 3 additions, scraping the sides of the bowl after each addition. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the chocolate chips, grated chocolate, and nuts. Roll the dough into 1-inch balls and place them 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets.

  6. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Let cool for a couple of minutes before transferring the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

  7. Store the cookies at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 7 days, or store in the freezer for up to 1 month.

  SOURCE

  WhatsCookingAmerica.net

  ChowHound.com

  FoodTimeline.org

  American Food by Evan Jones

  History of Baking in America Volumes I and II by William G. Panschar

  Rare Bits: Unusual Origins of Popular Recipes by Patricia Bunning Stevens

  Doughnuts: An American Passion by John T Edge

  Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book by Betty Crocker

  Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan

  A World of Cakes by Krystina Castella

  A Baker’s Odyssey by Greg Patent

  BIRTHDAY CAKE

  The Folk-lore Journal, Volume 1 and Volume 11 (accessible at http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Folk-Lore_Journal)

  NewEnglandRecipes.org

  RECIPE: I can’t tell you where this recipe came from—it’s a basic cake that has been kicking around in my repertoire forever, it seems. I’ve been using it for my personal birthday cake for years. The frosting is adapted from a version I learned about from my friend Alice Currah, who blogs at SavorySweetLife.com.

  BOSTON CREAM PIE

  Stern, Lisë. “Contest finalists and judges discover the value of pie.” Boston Globe, April 27, 2005

  Omni Parker House Hotel

  MALegislature.gov

  You Know You’re In Massachuse
tts When … by Patricia Harris and David Lyon

  RECIPE: Adapted from the original Omni Parker House Hotel recipe.

  BALLAD OF BETTY AND DUNCAN AND ALL MIXED UP SIDEBARS (THIS PAGE, THIS PAGE)

  Finding Betty Crocker: The Secret Life of America’s First Lady of Food by Susan Marks

  Bowling Green Area Convention & Visitor’s Bureau

  CARROT CAKE

  Oxford Companion to Food 2nd edition by Alan Davidson

  RECIPE: This recipe is an adaptation of a handwritten one I found in my friend Chris’s repertoire. I omitted the raisins (because I don’t like them) and added nuts.

  CUPCAKES

  American Cookery 1796 2nd edition by Amelia Simmons

  Scientific American magazine, September 2009

  RECIPE: This is a coconut cake recipe that I changed slightly to work in cupcake form. The frosting is a coconutty adaptation of the version found in my first book, CakeSpy Presents Sweet Treats for a Sugar-Filled Life.

  GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE

  Baker’s Chocolate (a division of Kraft Foods)

  WhatsCookingAmerica.com

  RECIPE: This is an adaptation of the version popularized as a back-of-the-box recipe. This version is slightly more tender owing to cake flour, plus I’ve upped the vanilla for a more flavorful end result and topped it with a chocolate glaze.

  NEW YORK CHEESECAKE

  New York Times articles

  On Food And Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee

  RECIPE: This is an adaptation of a widely circulated recipe entitled “Lindy’s Cheesecake,” which I believe was first “outed” in the New York Times in the 1960s. Every version is a little different. This version is quite simple, but true to versions of that era.

  DOUGHNUTS

  Donuts: An American Passion by John T. Edge

  A History of New York by Washington Irving

  RECIPE: This recipe is based on one I photocopied from a women’s magazine long ago (I’m sorry; I forget which one!). The original was a spiced doughnut recipe, but I prefer it plain. Through the years I have adjusted the proportions, so it is quite different from the original, and proof that one of the most joyous parts of a recipe is how it adapts over the years!

  PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

  Dole Company

  Hawaiian Pineapple as One Hundred Good Cooks Serve It (accessible at http://www.amazon.com/PINEAPPLE-contributed-magazine-reading-practical-Pineapple/dp/B003ATN3O8)

  RECIPE: For this recipe, I consulted recipes both old and new. This is a sort of middle ground between them, with a cake that has an increased caramelly quotient thanks to brown sugar and an extra egg.

  RED VELVET CAKE

  Stella of BraveTart.com pointed me in many of the right directions for this one.

  AdamsExtract.com

  RECIPE: I started with a recipe I found a few years ago, but tinkered with the ratios and food- coloring amount. The boiled milk frosting is adapted from Warren Brown.

  SMITH ISLAND CAKE

  Mrs. Kitching’s Smith Island Cookbook by Frances Kitching and Susan Stiles Dowell

  RECIPE: Adapted from the recipe in Mrs. Kitching’s Smith Island Cookbook.

  BLONDIES & BROWNIES

  FoodTimeline.org

  The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink by John F. Mariani

  The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, edited by Andrew F. Smith

  CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

  The Wakefield Cookbook Collection, Framingham State University Library

  New York Times articles

  Ruth Wakefield’s Toll House Tried and True Recipes by Ruth Graves Wakefield

  Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book by Betty Crocker

  RECIPE: Adapted from the original Toll House recipe.

  PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

  Claiborne, Craig. “The Fork and the Cookie.” New York Times, April 2, 1979.

  Schenectady Journal, 1932.

  How to Grow the Peanut and 105 Ways of Preparing it for Human Consumption by George W. Carver

  RECIPE: Adapted from the one my mom always made while I was growing up!

  PUFFED RICE TREATS

  Kellogg’s company timeline (KelloggHistory.com/timeline.html)

  Mildred Day obituary. Baltimore Sun, June 14, 1996.

  RECIPE: Adapted from the original back-of-the-box recipe on Rice Krispies.

  WHOOPIE PIES

  New York Times articles

  PaDutchCountry.com

  Labadie’s Bakery

  RECIPE: Adapted from a recipe by Judith Fertig.

  APPLE PIE

  The American Century Cookbook: The Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century by Jean Anderson

  Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the 19th Century by C. Anne Wilson

  RECIPE: Adapted from a recipe from the 1912 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book by Fannie Merritt Farmer.

  NUTTY CHOCOLATE PIE

  Epicurious.com

  Encyclopedia of Louisville by John E. Kleber

  Pearl, Charlie. “Still Playing the Pie Game.” The State Journal, April 17, 2008. http://www.state-journal.com/local%20news/2008/04/17/still-playing-the-pie-game

  850 F.2d 692. United States Court of Appeals, Sixth Circuit. http://bulk.resource.org/courts.gov/c/F2/850/850.F2d.692.87-6152.87-5852.html

  RECIPE: Adapted from a recipe for a race day pie in Southern Living (I believe).

  LEMON MERINGUE PIE

  Mrs. Goodfellow’s Cookery As It Should Be by Mrs. Goodfellow

  An A–Z of Food & Drink by John Ayto and Alan Davidson

  HistoryCooks.com

  RECIPE: Custard adapted from my mom; recipe is a mash-up of several classics.

  PECAN PIE

  Bok, Edward William and Louisa Knapp. Ladies’ Home Journal, Volume 15

  The Southern Cook Book of Fine Old Recipes by Lillie S. Lustig

  The Cambridge World History of Food by Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas

  PUMPKIN PIE

  America’s Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking by Keith Stavely and Kathleen Fitzgerald

  Eating in America by Waverley Root and Richard de Rochemont

  RECIPE: Based on the famous back-of-the-label recipe from Libby’s canned pumpkin.

  BAKED ALASKA

  WhatsCookingAmerica.com

  FoodReference.com

  The Glutton’s Glossary: A Dictionary of Food and Drink Terms by John Ayto

  RECIPE: The idea for the brownie base came from Catherine McCord of Weelicious.com

  HERMITS

  HistoryCook.com

  NewEnglandRecipes.org

  The American History Cookbook by Mark Zanger

  Miss Parloa’s New Cook Book 1880 edition by Maria Parloa

  Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book by Betty Crocker

  RECIPE: Adapted and inspired by a combination of recipes found in Miss Parloa’s New Cook Book and Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book.

  JOE FROGGERS

  Weltner, Linda. “History of Black Joe.” Marblehead Magazine.

  New England Cookbook by Eleanor Early

  Marblehead Myths, Legends and Lore by Pam Matthias Peterson

  RECIPE: Adapted from the historical recipe found on the Marblehead website (Marblehead.org).

  JUMBLES

  Hearthside Cooking: Early American Southern Cuisine by Nancy Carter Crump

  The Accomplisht Cook by Robert May

  Betty Crocker’s Cooky Book by Betty Crocker

  Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery by Karen Hess

  Mrs. Beeton’s Every-Day Cookery by Mrs. Isabella Beeton

  RECIPE: Adapted from Eliza Leslie.

  TUNNEL OF FUDGE CAKE

  Pillsbury archives

  H. David Dalquist obituary. New York Times, 2005.

  RECIPE: Pillsbury was generous enough to permit me to use this recipe.

  WELLESLEY FUDGE CAKE

  Wellesley College Staff

  AmericasTestKitchen.co
m

  Baker’s Chocolate (a division of Kraft Foods)

  RECIPE: Adapted from an early 1900s recipe which appeared on Baker’s Chocolate boxes.

  ANZAC BISCUITS

  “Protection of Word ‘Anzac’ Regulations.” Australian Government: Department of Verteran’s Affairs. http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Series/F1997B02175

  Fewster, Sean. “Subway dumps Anzac biscuit from the menu.” The Advertiser, September 22, 2008.

  RECIPE: Adapted from a recipe in The Register New-Pictorial in the 1930s.

  CHERRIES JUBILEE

  White Truffles in Winter by N. M. Kelby

 

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