Lonely Planet Indonesia

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Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 15

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  Museum KonperensiMUSEUM

  (Conference Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Asia Afrika; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri)F

  The Museum Konperensi inside the Gedung Merdeka (Freedom Building) is dedicated to the Asia-Africa conference of 1955, which Bandung hosted and the echoes of which can still be seen in the city's branding today. There are a few interesting photos of Sukarno, Nehru, Ho Chi Minh, Nasser and other developing world leaders of the 1950s.

  Bandung Institute of TechnologyUNIVERSITY

  (ITB; GOOGLE MAP ; www.itb.ac.id/en; Jl Ganeca; art gallery admission free; hart gallery on request)

  Opened in 1920, the ITB was the first university open to Indonesians – Sukarno studied here, and it has a reputation for political activism. In1998, in the lead-up to Suharto’s downfall, up to 100,000 students rallied daily.

  Set in spacious grounds, the complex contains some bizarre hybrid Indo-European architecture. Visit the art gallery, as its fine arts school is internationally famous. To reach the ITB, take a Lembang or Dago angkot from the train station and then walk down Jl Ganeca.

  2Activities

  Adu domba, or 'ram fights', are held most Sundays between 9am and 1pm. While wildly popular in Bandung, animal welfare experts claim the spectacle is cruel; some travellers may find it distressing. For more information, contact the tourist information centre.

  Bersih SehatMASSAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-426 0765; www.bersihsehat.com; Jl Sultan Tirtayasa 31)

  This is an excellent massage and treatment salon. Rates are reasonable with a one-hour body massage costing 130,000Rp. A 90-minute treatment with a massage and lulur body scrub costs just 150,000Rp.

  TTours

  Freelance English-speaking Enoss (%0852 2106 3788; [email protected]) is a good-natured tour guide who runs one-day tours (400,000Rp per person) of the sights to the north and south of the city. The tours get you away from the more predictable touristy locations. He can also set up trips to Pangandaran (around 1,000,000Rp) via Garut.

  4Sleeping

  Bandung is short on good budget places. Many of the luxury hotels offer online discounts, so shop around.

  Chez BonHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-426 0600; www.chez-bon.con; Jl Braga 45; per person 150,000Rp; aW)

  A relatively new hostel set up a flight of scruffy marble stairs from Jl Braga. Bunks are set up in two-bed, six-bed and 16-bed arrangements. All are air-conditioned and come with lockers and wi-fi. Bathroomss are shared. It's a simple set up and a good deal with conscientious English-speaking management.

  Hotel KenanganHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-421 3244; www.kenanganhotel.com; Jl Kebon Sirih 4; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 265,000/395,000Rp; aW)

  Towards the top end of the budget bracket, this breezy hotel is a great deal with comfortable rooms and free wi-fi. The location, close to the Governor's Residence, is central and quiet and staff are helpful. Prices rise a fraction on weekends. Economy rooms (with fans) can be dark, with tinted windows looking out into the interior halls.

  YokotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-421 9338; www.yokotel.com; Jl Kebonjati 17-19; r from 360,000Rp; aW)

  A handsome new midranger with a welcoming, if cramped, tiled lobby, a homely facade and 19 rooms on three floors. Rooms aren't huge but have nice linens, wallpaper accents, wood floors, and are very clean, with coffee and tea too.

  Hotel SerenaHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-420 4317; Jl Maruk 4-6; r/ste incl breakfast from 428,000/548,000Rp; a)

  This pleasant modern hotel has jacked up its prices, though the rooms have comfortable beds, are still fair value and the location is excellent. Prices rise 10% at weekends.

  The 101HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-426 0966; the101hotels.com; Jl Juanda 3; r from 750,000Rp; aWs)

  Part of a national chain, The 101's reclaimed wood-panelled facade dripping with vines is cool, as are the Sino-Portuguese tiles in the lobby and groovy lounge spaces. Rooms are just as attractive with blonde-wood furnishings and checkerboard tile floors, though they aren't huge. It's set in the leafy north.

  NovotelHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-421 1001; www.novotel.com; Jl Cihampelas 23; r from 1,579,000Rp; aiWs)

  A worthy splurge, rooms are stylish and service standards are very high. Although the pool is tiny, it has a great gym and a spa. Online discounts are easy to find.

  oSavoy Homann HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-423 2244; www.savoyhomann-hotel.com; Jl Asia Afrika 112; r/ste from 1,660,000/1,840,000Rp; aiWs)

  Dating back to 1921, this wonderful-looking hotel has a superb sweeping facade, and the rooms and communal areas retain real art deco class, with period lighting and stylish details galore. Promo deals are available on the website.

  Prama Grand PreangerHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-423 1631; www.preanger.aerowisata.com; Jl Asia Afrika 181; r/ste from 815,000/1,375,000Rp; aWs)

  Dating back to 1929 and blessed with a photogenic lobby patisserie set beneath stained-glass skylights. The best rooms are those in the executive class, on the 1st floor. These are the originals, and though they have been recently renovated, art deco flourishes remain with reproduction furniture, marble floors and baths, and original lighting.

  Rooms in the attached, modern wing are dark, with thin carpet, and are just OK.

  5Eating

  In the centre, Jl Braga has a strip of cafes and restaurants. Many of Bandung's most exclusive places are concentrated in the north of town. For cheap eats check out the night warungs on Jl Cikapundung Barat, across from the alun-alun (main public square).

  KioskINDONESIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Braga, Braga City Walk; meals 15,000-45,000Rp; h10am-10pm; W)

  This mini food court on the ground floor of the Braga City Walk is ideal for mixing with locals and sampling some unusual snacks from kaki lima (street vendor) style stalls. Order a lotek (Sundanese salad) or a noodle dish. Drinks include juices – try the sirsak (soursop) – cold beers and iced coffees.

  Mangokok ManisICE CREAM$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cihampelas 101; sundaes 25,000-30,000Rp; hnoon-9pm)

  An uber-popular ice cream joint on Jeans Street, where you build your own sundae from the foundation. First, choose a flavour: vanilla, chocolate, green tea, strawberry or rum raisin. Next add a favourite pudding: mango, egg, vanilla, coconut or black forest. Finish off with a topping, such as fresh fruit, Oreos, or Kit Kats.

  Get it in a real bowl or a coconut shell.

  HangoverPUB FOOD$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hangover.bdg; Jl Braga 47; dishes 16,000-48,000Rp; h11am-midnight)

  A great new local pub, with classic rock and blues on the stereo and a comforting range of updated Western and Indo classics emerging from the kitchen. It does meatballs with fried rice, oxtail soup, chicken burgers and a delicious hot salty tofu. And it serves icy cold beer, of course.

  Braga Punya CaritaINDONESIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Braga; mains 27,000-75,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

  A new-school warung serving mixed rice dishes, oxtail and fish soup, and some forgettable Western options. For the rice dishes, you can choose between red or white rice then add the flavour from a menu of chicken Taliwang, grilled tempe, and salted fish, among others.

  The decor beats the food, however, thanks to the cool front patio and an interior decorated with old Polaroids strung up on laundry lines.

  MidoriJAPANESE$$

  (www.restoranmidori.com; Jl Tirtayasa 31; mains 34,000-88,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

  Nestled below the Bersih Sehat spa is this worthy Japanese restaurant. The sushi isn't special, so stick to the bento boxes which come with fried and grilled chicken, grilled cod or beef, tempura shrimp and squid, and many more choices. All affordable.

  Capital 8INTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022-253 4338; Jl Juanda 72; mains 40,000-125,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W)

/>   A modern eatery set around a reflection pool, with terrific design and tasty bites. It's used reclaimed wood to build the tables and chairs, there's a bakery out front, and an adventurous menu artfully presented. In the morning get a breakfast quesadilla or stuffed pancakes.

  At lunch try the tandoori chicken and couscous salad, chicken avocado burrito or teriyaki lamb. It also does steaks and fish dishes.

  MausmausINTERNATIONAL$$

  (%022-266858; Mausmausbistro.com; Jl Sultan Tirtayasa 35; mains 28,000-150,000Rp; h6-11pm)

  Upscale eating in the trendy north, this split-level fine dining haunt made from wood, concrete and glass, serves the closest Bandung comes to haute cuisine. It does a panko-crusted sea bass, a range of pasta dishes and a prodigious mixed grill including lamb chops with mint dressing and both local and imported beef.

  Very popular with the local gentry, it also serves some Indonesian classics. Despite all appearances, prices are quite reasonable.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  After dark, Jl Braga has a typical downtown vibe, with small bars, pool halls, karaoke lounges and live music venues. Up in north Bandung, the well-heeled head to places along Jl Juanda, and students converge on Jeans Street (though there are few bars here).

  oWiki KoffeeCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Braga; h10am-midnight; W)

  The coolest place on Jl Braga at research time, this smoky cafe is set in a restored old storefront and tastefully decorated with vintage furniture, art and fresh-cut flowers. This is where the hip, young and cute collide in intimate corners and at table and chair arrangements that feel like your living room.

  It does a small food menu, with sweet snacks like waffles and salty ones like fried chicken wings. But it's mostly a hang spot with good coffee. Hence the long wait for a table.

  CupsCAFE

  (Jl Trunojoyo 25; h10am-10pm; W)

  A polished-concrete atrium cafe with orchids hung on the wall, smoke in the air and mostly Western snacks and sandwiches on the menu. Fish and chips, Caesar salad, burgers and hot dogs are all here for the ordering, but coffee is Cups thing. That's what draws Bandung's creative class for all-day work-and-sip sessions.

  North Sea BarBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Braga 82; hnoon-1am)

  Locally known as the 'naughty bar', the beer flows late at this pub-style expat and bar-girl hang-out. It's actually not that sleazy and there’s a popular pool table.

  RoempoetBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Braga 80)

  Intimate bar with live bands (mainly playing covers most nights) and a social vibe. Sizzling sate is also served.

  3Entertainment

  Bandung is a good place to see Sundanese performing arts; however, performance times are haphazard – check with the tourist information centre for the latest schedules.

  ASTI BandungPERFORMING ARTS

  (%022-731 4982; Jl Buah Batu 212, Kampus STSI Bandung)

  In the southern part of the city about 3km from the centre, this is a school for traditional Sundanese arts – music, dancing and pencak silat (martial arts).

  Saung AngklungPERFORMING ARTS

  (%022-727 1714; www.angklung-udjo.co.id; Jl Padasuka 118; adult/child under 12yr 75,000/50,000Rp; h10.30am-5pm)

  Excellent angklung (bamboo musical instrument) performances, held daily in a Sundanese cultural centre that also hosts dance events and ceremonial processions. It's around 10km northeast of the city centre.

  7Shopping

  With glitzy malls and factory outlets, shopaholics come here from as far as Malaysia in search of labels and bargains. Bandung’s celebrated Jeans Street, Jl Cihampelas, is at its best where the road narrows and cheap clothing stores are lined up shoulder to shoulder from Jl Pasteur at the southern end to Jl Hussen in the north. There is plenty of denim, though quality is iffy. You'll also find inexpensive T-shirts, leather jackets, backpacks and flip-flops. Jl Cibaduyut, in southwest Bandung, is to shoes what Jl Cihampelas is to jeans. Check out Jl Braga for antiques, art and curios. Jl Trunojoyo, in the leafy north end, offers the hippest, trendiest styles and shoppers.

  Kayu SolidARTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kayusolid.com; Jl Braga 29; h11am-7pm)

  The coolest showroom on Jl Braga displays the artistry of nature. The medium here is huge slabs of tropical wood, minimally treated and displayed like fine art. Admire the wonders of teak, jackfruit, rosewood and many others. None of it is cheap, but it's still a better deal than in Jakarta.

  If you're looking for that one-of-a-kind dining room or coffee table, it has the goods. It can also arrange shipping.

  Bandung Jean PointCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cihampelas 122; h9.30am-9.30pm)

  Our favourite denim shop on Jeans Street, with its vaguely Old West branding; it offers export-quality jeans, jackets, pants and chambrays too. Some creased and fresh from the factory, some faded and secondhand. Dig and ye might find.

  Cihampelas WalkMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cihampelaswalk.com; Jl Cihampelas 160; h10am-10pm)

  A modern indoor-outdoor sweep of a shopping mall with a food court on the leafy ground floor and a blend of small businesses and international chains on two levels. There's also a kid-friendly arcade with rides and games here.

  Bandung SupermalMALL

  (Jl Gatot Subroto 289; W)

  More than 200 shops including Boss and Levi's, a huge Hero supermarket, a bowling alley and cinemas.

  Braga City WalkMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bragacitywalk.net; Jl Braga; W)

  Small upmarket shopping mall with boutiques, a food court, a cinema and supermarket.

  Pasar BaruMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kebonjati)

  Somewhat grotty central market, but good for fresh fruit.

  Pasar JatayuMARKET

  (Jl Arjuna)

  Search this flea market for collectables hidden amid the junk.

  8Information

  Most of the upmarket shopping malls including the Bandung Supermal and Braga City Walk have free wi-fi, as do nearly all the hotels, cafes and restaurants. Banks are scattered across Bandung.

  Adventist HospitalHOSPITAL

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-203 4386; Jl Cihampelas 161; h24hr)

  A missionary hospital with English-speaking staff.

  Bandung Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-727 1724; www.bandungtourism.com; Jl Ahmad Yani 277; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

  Managed by very helpful staff that offer lots of free information, and can help with bus and train tickets and also book tours of the Bandung region.

  Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Banceuy & Jl Asia Afrika; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Bandung airport is fast becoming an important international and domestic transport hub; a new terminal opened in 2012, boosting capacity. It's a key hub for AirAsia (%022-5050 5088; www.airasia.com), with connections to Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Singapore and domestic cities including Denpasar. Lion Air (%021-6379 8000; www2.lionair.co.id) flies to Banjarmasin, Batam, Denpasar and Surabaya; Garuda ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-420 9468; Jl Asia Afrika 181, Grand Hotel Preanger) and Citilink (www.citilink.co.id) connect to Surabaya.

  Bus

  Five kilometres south of the city centre, Leuwi Panjang bus terminal (Jl Sukarno Hatta) has buses west to places such as Cianjur (normal/air-con 25,000/30,000Rp, two hours) and Bogor (50,000/60,000Rp, 3½ hours), and to Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan bus terminal (37,000Rp to 47,000Rp, three hours). Buses to Bogor take at least an hour longer on weekends because of heavy traffic.

  On the eastern outskirts, Cicaheum bus terminal serves Cirebon (normal/air-con 50,000/70,000Rp, four hours, hourly), Garut (normal/air-con 20,000/30,000Rp, two hours, every 40 minutes) and Pangandaran (normal/air-con 40,000/63,000Rp, six hours, hourly).

  Cipaganti (%022-612 6650; Jl Dr Djundjunan 143-149, Bandung Trade Center ) runs mi
nibuses every 30 minutes to many locations in Jakarta from its terminal in the Bandung Trade Center, 4km northwest of the centre. Citi Flyer (%0804 1111 000; www.cititrans.co.id) offers luxury shuttle bus service to the Jakarta airport (135,000Rp to 195,000Rp, three hours).

  TRAINS FROM BANDUNG

  Destination Cost (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency

  Jakarta (Gambir) 105,000 3¼ 11 daily

  Surabaya 385,000-425,000 11-12 3 daily

  Yogyakarta 200,000-325,000 7¼-8 6 daily

  8Getting Around

  To/From the Airport

  Bandung’s Husein Sastranegara airport is 4km northwest of town; it costs around 50,000Rp to get there by taxi from the centre.

  Bus, Angkot & Taxi

  Bandung is a fiendishly difficult city to negiotate on public transport, and few travellers bother as taxi rates are reasonable. Stick to the the ever-reliable Bluebird taxis (%022-756 1234).

  Angkot run from Stasiun Hall (St Hall), on the southern side of the train station, to Dago, Ledeng and other destinations; fares cost from 3000Rp to 5000Rp. City buses (called Damri) run from west to east down Jl Asia Afrika to Cicaheum bus terminal, and from the train station to Leuwi Panjang bus terminal.

 

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