A modest, well-kept hotel with clean tiled rooms with high ceilings and hot water. They are a little dark but well priced with frequent discounts offered. You’ll find a nice lounge and garden area at the rear.
GreenhostBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-389777; www.greenhosthotel.com; Jl Prawirotaman II; r from 520,000Rp; aiWs)
This raw, natural wood and polished concrete structure dripping with vines is a terrific new boutique hotel. The lobby is the ground floor of a dramatic atrium, and though rooms aren't huge they offer polished concrete floors, raw-wood furnishings and floating beds. There's an indoor saltwater pool.
Dusun Jogja Village InnHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-373031; www.jvidusun.co.id; Jl Menukan 5; r incl breakfast from 880,000Rp; aWs)
This fine hotel has a lovely Javanese feel thanks to its design and decor, and maintains high standards. Most of the luxurious rooms have ample balconies overlooking the stunning tropical garden and huge pool. It's a 10-minute walk from the restaurant action of Prawirotaman.
City Centre
Edu HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-543295; www.eduhostels.com; Jl Suprapto 17; dm 80,000Rp; aiWs)
The biggest hostel in Indonesia is set in a massive former condo complex, with a whopping 324 beds broken down into 60 separate dorm rooms, each with their own bathroom. There's a dipping pool and bar on the rooftop, and fat bikes for rent (four hours, 40,000Rp), though the location isn't great.
It's a kilometre from Jl Malioboro, 1.5km from the train station, and not that close to any of the real action.
oThe PhoenixHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-566617; www.thephoenixyogya.com; Jl Jenderal Sudirman 9-11; r from 900,000Rp; aiWs)
Right in the heart of the city, this historic hotel is easily the best in its class and is a Yogya landmark. Dating back to 1918, it’s been sensitively converted to incorporate modern facilities. Rooms are gorgeous, and it's worth paying a little extra for those with balconies overlooking the pool area.
There's a spa and great cafe, and the buffet breakfast spread is a sight for hungry bellies.
Outskirts
od'OmahBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0274-368050; domahyogya.com; Jalan Parangtritis Km8.5, Tembi; r from 1,250,000Rp; aiWs)
Tastefully built in traditional Javanese style with 23 gorgeous rooms, grouped in four villa-like compounds, each with a pool. It's a delight to explore the grounds, which are replete with art and sculpture and fringed by rice fields (illuminated by flickering torchlight at night). It's about 8km south of the centre.
Villa HanisBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0274-867666; www.villahanis.com; Jl Palagan Km7.5; r from US$129; aiWs)
This luxury B&B, owned by a Belgian-Indonesian couple, features rooms in a traditional Javanese teak house. It's in a rural location about 7km north of the centre, surrounded by rice fields, with views of Gunung Merapi.
5Eating
Yogya is a great place to eat out with authentic street food and local places in the centre and some tasty restaurants geared to the Western palate concentrated in the Prawirotaman and adjacent Jl Tirtodipuran area to the south.
Sosrowijayan Area
There are loads of inexpensive noshing options in this area including a row of good warungs on Jl Pasar Kembang, beside the train line.
Bedhot RestoINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gang II; mains 18,000-42,000Rp; h8am-11pm; Wv)
Bedhot means ‘creative’ in old Javanese and this place is one of the more stylish eateries in Sosrowijayan. There’s tasty Indonesian and international food – a cut above usual tourist fare – plus good juices and wi-fi.
Hanis Restaurant & BakeryINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sosrowijayan, Gang II; mains 24,000-49,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
If you are in dire need of international fare like, say, a breakfast of muesli and yogurt, some decent brown bread or chicken fajitas, this cute bakery and cafe could be your salvation. The cakes and pies look serious too.
Oxen FreePUB FOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oxenfree.net; Jl Sosrowijayan 2; mains 30,000-60,000Rp; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat ; W)
The coolest new spot in the area is set in an old colonial building, dotted with reclaimed booths and lit by raw bulbs and old camping lanterns. Most descend on the beer garden out the back, for all-day Western breakfasts and roast chicken and lamb dinners. Attention veg-heads: it does a mean tempe steak too.
It gets a fun bar crowd most nights.
Mi Casa es Tu CasaSPANISH, INDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.micasaestucasa.mye.name; Sosrowijayan Wetan GT I/141; mains 30,000-115,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
OK, the name is a cliche, but this stylish Basque-owned place is worth a try if you're in need of paella (115,000Rp for two, order well ahead) or crave tapas (mushroom risotto, albóndigas meatballs, gazpacho). It also serves Indonesian dishes and, um, cobra. If that's your thing.
YOGYA'S STREET FOOD
In the evening, street-food vendors line the northern end of Jl Malioboro; here you can try Yogya’s famous ayam goreng (deep-fried chicken soaked in coconut milk) and dishes such as sambal welut (spicy eel) and nasi langgi (coconut rice with tempe). Many students head here in the evening to snack on oseng oseng, which is a kind of mini nasi campur (rice with a bit of everything) and only costs 5000Rp to 10,000Rp. It's a lot of fun with impromptu lesahan seating, mats spread on the ground and young Indonesians strumming their guitars into the wee small hours. Complemented by the clip-clop of the horse carts and the whirring clank of the becak mob, Jl Malioboro is that different world; that open doorway into an authentic Indonesian way of life.
During daylight hours look out for Yogya's famous gudeg, a jackfruit curry served with chicken, egg and rice, which is served from stalls all over town, particularly around markets.
Prawirotaman Area
Bu AgengINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-387191; Jl Tirtodipuran 13; mains 14,000-30,000Rp; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun)
Traditional Javanese dishes like eyem penggeng, chicken simmered in spiced coconut cream then grilled, are served in a tasteful interior space with wood columns and a bamboo-mat ceiling twirling with fans. The adventurous array of mixed rice platters include dishes like beef tongue, smoked fish or beef stewed in coconut milk. There's even a durian bread pudding.
If you order the chicken, know that this is kampung chicken. It's truly free-range, lean, flavourful, slightly al dente and not that meaty. In other words, be a bone- sucker.
MilasINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-742 3399; Jl Prawirotaman IV 127; dishes 15,000-45,000Rp; h3-9pm Tue-Fri, noon-9pm Sat & Sun; v)
A great retreat from the streets, this secret garden restaurant is part of a project centre for street youth. It offers tasty vegetarian cooking including healthy snacks, sandwiches, salads and organic coffee.
Tempo del GelatoGELATERIA$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Prawirotaman I; small/medium/large 20,000/40,000/65,000Rp; h11am-11pm)
A stone-and-glass chapel to Italian ice cream. Flavours on rotation include ginger, guava, dragon fruit, chocolate, green tea, praline, lemongrass, rum raisin and coconut. Four months old at research time and already extremely popular.
Via ViaINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-386557; www.viaviajogja.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 30; mains 27,000-115,000Rp; W)
Serving almost an exclusively Western crowd, Via Via does a variety of juices, lassis, felafel and curried chicken pitas, veggie burgers, pasta and some Indian dishes too. The next-door shop offers backpacker essentials and a terrific tour desk beneath a yoga studio.
Kedai KebunINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kedaikebun.com; Jl Tirtodipuran III; mains 30,000-109,000Rp; Wv)
This fun bohemian cafe-gallery is a key hang-out for Yogya's artistic community. The menu is a blend of Indonesian and international comfo
rt food, and vegans and vegetarians are well catered for. Still, the colourful setting is more exciting than the food. The attached gallery hosts regular events including art exhibitions where DJs spin.
oMediterraneaMEDITERRANEAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.restobykamil.com; Jl Tirtodipuran 24A; mains 38,000-147,000Rp; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
This French-owned kitchen is a delight in every sense. Everything here is homemade, including the bread which is baked twice daily. It also smokes its own salmon, slices a paper-thin beef carpaccio, offers a tasty tuna tataki, and grills kebabs, steaks and chops. The traditional range of wood-fired pizzas are marvellous too.
Local expats consider chef Kamil Massard-Combe's spiced duck breast, served on a bed of risotto, to be the best dish in the city. Whatever you do, save room for dessert. It would be difficult to find a finer crème brûlée on this sweet earth. If it's a lively evening, dine indoors; if you crave romance, grab a candlelit table on the back patio.
Other Areas
oTojoyo 3INDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-419169; Jl Urip Sumoharjo 133; dishes 4000-12,500Rp; h11am-11pm)
A smoky, salty, tiled den of turmeric-rubbed, fried-chicken iniquity. Dishes are impossibly cheap and that lean-yet-juicy kampung chicken is improbably good. No wonder all the tables and benches are packed with locals, here to get their deep-fried fix. It's set on a commercial strip east of Jl Malioboro.
Omar Duwur RestaurantINDONESIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$$
(%0274-374952; www.omahdhuwur.net; Jl Mondorakan 252; mains 39,000-175,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
Out in Kota Gede, this is one of Yogya’s best restaurants, with a lavish setting in a 150-year-old colonial mansion, and a wide selection of Western (try the Australian tenderloin steak) and Eastern (the spiced, fried duck and oxtail soup are well executed) dishes.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cool cafes are opening across Yogya, particularly in the Prawirotaman area. If you want to sip a few beers, both Jl Sosrowijayan and Jl Parangtritis (in the Prawirotaman area) have a crop of bars; many with live music.
oOxen FreeBEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oxenfree.net; Jl Sosrowijayan 2; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
This reclaimed medical clinic from the old colonial days stood vacant for years before a local Indo-expat couple turned it into a mainstay on the nightlife scene. Most guests come to chill in the beer garden booths where the Anker, Bintang, Bali Hai and San Miguel are perfectly chilled and can be served in beer towers.
It hosts a regular rotation of DJs and jazz bands, and throws theme parties too. Student night is Thursday.
Republic PositivaCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-557525; Jl Malioboro 60; cover charge varies; h7pm-3am)
It calls itself a cafe and lounge, but this venue at the Garuda Hotel in the city centre is a nightclub all the way. There's a regular rotation of DJs, student nights on Wednesday, and ladies night every Friday.
BosheCLUB
(%0274-624041; www.boshevvipclub.com/jogja; Jl Magelang, Km6.5; h10pm-2am)
This venue boasts a large central dance floor and a pumping sound system, and draws a young student crowd with electronic DJs (unfortunately alternated with cheesy dance troupes). There's always a drink promo.
3Entertainment
Yogya is one of the epicentres of traditional Javanese performing arts. Dance, wayang or gamelan is performed every morning at the kraton; check with the tourist office for current listings and any ongoing special events (such as the spectacular Ramayana ballet held at Prambanan in the dry season).
Wayang Kulit
Leather-puppet performances can be seen at several places around Yogya every night of the week.
Sasono HinggilPUPPETRY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; South Main Sq)
Most of the centres offer shortened versions for tourists, but here in the alun-alun selatan of the kraton, marathon all-night performances are held every second Saturday from 9pm to 5am (20,000Rp). Bring a pillow.
Sono-Budoyo MuseumPUPPETRY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-376775; admission 20,000Rp, camera 3000Rp; h8pm-10pm Mon-Sat )
Popular two-hour performances nightly from 8pm to 10pm (20,000Rp); the first half-hour involves the reading of the story in Javanese, so most travellers skip this and arrive later.
Dance
Most performances are based on the Ramayana or at least billed as ‘Ramayana ballet’ because of the famed performances at Prambanan.
PurawisataDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-375705; Jl Brigjen Katamso; 300,000Rp)
This amusement park stages Ramayana performances daily at 8pm. You can dine here and watch the show.
THE YOGYA SCENE
What makes Yogyakarta so easy to like is its accessibility. One can stroll the sights, sample the flavours and get a good night's sleep in an affordable, clean and comfortable room. The air is not full of smog and the sights nearby are magical. But that's not why so many international people have moved here. What makes them love their adopted city isn't the easily accessible qualities, but its shadow side.
Difficult to access but worth seeking out is Yogya's massive underground scene. Its art gallery openings and all night dance parties by the riverside or on nearby beaches. DJs, live bands, MCs and ska punks are all here, but if you are on a quick blitz through Java you are likely to miss it. On the other hand, if you take a month-long bahasa intensive, sink in and stay awhile, you might just find the rhythm.
The following sites often post the latest happenings in and around Yogyakarta. Some are arts organisations, others are gallery or band pages. All post upcoming events when they have them.
Krack Studio (www.facebook.com/KrackStudio)
Kebun Binatang Film (www.facebook.com/kebunbinatangfilm)
IndoArtNow (www.facebook.com/indoartnow)
LifePatch (www.facebook.com/lifepatch)
HONF: The House of Natural Fiber (www.facebook.com/houseofnaturalfiber)
Kedai Kebun (www.facebook.com/kedai.kebun)
Yes No Klub (www.facebook.com/yesnoklubyk)
Lelagu Musik (www.facebook.com/Lelagu.musik)
Senyawa (www.facebook.com/senyawamusik)
Zoo (www.facebook.com/zooindonesia)
Jogja Noise Bombing (www.facebook.com/jogjanoisebombingpeople)
Dub Youth (www.facebook.com/DubyouthOfficial)
Sound Boutique (www.facebook.com/groups/64738459162)
D.I.G. Project (www.facebook.com/doingrouproject)
EnergyRoom (www.facebook.com/ENERGYROOM)
Live Music
Jl Sosrowijayan is something of a live-music hub with casual venues often rocking with local bands. At research time these were the most reliable choices.
AmsaraLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tirtodipuran; hnoon-late)
It calls itself an art and coffee shop, but this split-level joint feels like a restaurant and bar with frequent live acts. Regulars include a really good reggae band on Thursdays and a fun, mixed crowd every night. Locals call it 'Ascos'.
LuciferLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sosrowijayan)
An intimate bar and one of the city’s key live-music venues. There are bands most nights.
K MealsLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-829 0097; www.kmealsrestaurant.com; Jl Prawirotaman I)
A cool indoor-outdoor pub with live blues on Monday and reggae every Thursday.
7Shopping
Yogyakarta is a shopper’s paradise for crafts and antiques.
Jl Malioboro is one great, throbbing bazaar of souvenir shops and stalls selling cheap clothes, leatherwork, batik bags, topeng masks and wayang golek puppets. Look in some of the fixed-price shops on Jl Malioboro or nearby streets to get an idea of prices. Hamzah Batik ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-588524; Jl A Yani 9; h9am-9pm) is an excellent place to start looking, and when you're done shopping here try the traditional Javanese food on the roof terrace.
In the
south of the city, Jl Prawirotaman and Jl Tirtodipuran (west of Jl Prawirotaman) have a selection of upmarket galleries, art shops and expensive batik factories. You’ll find furniture, antiques, and a variety of crafts and curios from Java and further afield.
For regular shopping in the heart of town, head to Mal Malioboro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Malioboro; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun). Ambarrukmo Plaza (Jl Laksda Adisucipto; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun), 5km west of the centre, is more upmarket with boutiques, a good food court, cinema and supermarket; take bus 1B from the main post office.
Batik
Most of the batik workshops and several large showrooms are along Jl Tirtodipuran, south of the kraton. Many, such as Batik Plentong ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tirtodipuran 48) and Batik Winotosastro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tirtodipuran 54), give free guided tours of the batik process from 9am to 3pm. These places cater to tour groups, so prices are very high – view the process here and shop elsewhere.
Batik is cheapest in the markets, especially Pasar Beringharjo, but quality is questionable. Jl Malioboro and Jl A Yani have good fixed-price places.
Batik KerisCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.batikkeris.co.id; Jl A Yani 71; h9am-8pm)
Excellent-quality batik at fixed prices. Best for traditional styles – men's shirts start at about 200,000Rp.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 21
