Jembatan MerahBRIDGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Originally the old city was divided along ethnic lines, with Europeans on the west side of the Kali Mas river and Chinese, Arabs and Javanese on the east bank. Jembatan Merah is a famous bridge that connected the two halves of the city; it also saw fierce fighting during Indonesia’s battle for independence. Jl Jembatan Merah, running parallel to the canal, is a grungy replica of Amsterdam, but worthy (although rundown) examples of Dutch architecture can be seen here.
Another impressive structure is the Indo-European–style Gedung PTP XXII ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Merak Cendrawasih) government office building.
Other Areas
Masjid al AkbarMOSQUE
(Jl Masjid Al Akbar Timur I)F
Perhaps the most impressive modern mosque in Indonesia, you'll probably get a glimpse of Masjid al Akbar's magnificent array of bulbous turquoise-tiled domes as you exit the city. Staff are happy to show visitors around and will accompany you up the elevator to the top of the free-standing ottoman-style minaret, which offers spectacular views.
Take any bus heading for the main bus terminal, ask for the mosque and you'll be dropped off on Jl Ahmad Yani, a kilometre from the building. From here you can walk through quiet residential streets or take a becak. A taxi from central Surabaya is around 55,000Rp.
Monumen Kapal SelamSUBMARINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pemuda; admission 10,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Surabaya’s foremost stretch of renovated water-side real estate centres on the iron hulk that is Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. You can poke around the interior, peek through the periscope and even climb into the torpedo tubes. It's in a small landscaped park among a couple of cafes popular with young smoochers.
4Sleeping
Surabaya has a real dearth of good budget places: standards are low and poor-value rooms and disinterested staff tend to be the norm. This is another place in Java where you should consider blowing your budget and treating yourself.
Midrange accommodation options have improved greatly in recent years due to fierce competition. There are some excellent deals available in the luxury hotel sector, with rooms starting at US$50 for four-star hotels.
Sparkling Backpacker HotelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-532 1388; www.sparklingbackpacker.com; Jl Kayun 2A; r incl breakfast with shared/private bathroom 125,000/235,000Rp; aW)
'Sparkling' is far too optimistic, but this hostel-style place is well located in the heart of the city, within a short walk of malls, restaurants and the river. Still, cleanliness could be better and the layout isn't great; many rooms lack a bathroom and the only shared one is located on the ground floor.
Hotel PaviljoenHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-534 3449; Jl Genteng Besar 94-98; r with fan/air-con from 150,000/198,000-220,000Rp; a)
A respite from Surabaya’s manic streets, this venerable colonial villa still has a twinkle of charm and grandeur. Rooms are basic and spartan but they are clean and have some lovely touches too, including Mediterranean-style shuttered windows. The location could not be better. Pay the extra rate for the bigger room.
CitihubHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-535 7066, 031-502 9292; www.citihubhotels.com; Jl Gub Suryo IJ; r 375,000Rp; aiW)
Right in the heart of the city, almost opposite the Tunjungan Plaza mall, this bright, inviting business hotel is a superb place to stay if you value your home comforts and don't mind compact living quarters. All rooms have luxury bedding, hip decor, a large LCD TV and wi-fi.
You have to leave a cash deposit of 200,000Rp and rent towels (5000Rp). There are five other Citihub hotels within the Surabaya city limits; check the website for details.
Ibis RajawaliHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-353 9994; www.ibishotel.com; Jl Rajawali 9-11; r from 392,000Rp; aiW)
Rajawali is a fine choice if you’re looking to stay in the north of town. The entire place, from the reception to the rooms, is modern and businesslike, and there’s a small gym and a spa. Some upper-floor rooms have views of the Suramadu Bridge.
Hotel 88HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-534 9988; www.hotel88.co.id; Jl Kenongo 11; superior/deluxe 395,000/425,000Rp; aW)
A modern new-build spot on a street getting transformed into a string of Indonesian style McMansions, with malls and monuments a short walk away. Rooms aren't magical but they are clean, with high ceilings, queen beds and flat-screens. Superior rooms don't have windows.
MercureHOTEL$$
(%031-562 3000; www.mercure.com; Jl Raya Darmo 68-78; r from 490,000Rp; aiWs)
An excellent choice, this large hotel has first-class facilities, including an idyllic palm-fringed pool area. There's also a decent gym and a reasonably priced spa. Rooms are modern, spacious and good value, though the cheaper options lack wow factor. Staff are efficient and helpful.
ArtotelHOTEL$$$
(%031-568 9000; www.artotelindonesia.com; Jl Dr Soetomo 79–81; r from 810,000Rp; aW)
This aggressively artsy brand combines modern architecture and art into a somewhat loud but certainly original ambience that includes groovy public spaces and small but comfortable rooms with murals for headboards.
Hotel Majapahit SurabayaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-545 4333; www.hotel-majapahit.com; Jl Tunjungan 65; r from 1,480,000Rp; aiWs)
A memorable place to stay, this landmark colonial hotel exudes class and heritage, with colonnaded courtyards, fountains, verdant greenery and a gorgeous pool area (though as it's located on a busy road, some background traffic noise bleeds into the scene). Rooms, some with private terraces overlooking the gardens, are beautifully presented and boast all modern facilities.
Staff are extremely helpful and capable, and the restaurant is one of the best in the city.
Bumi SurabayaHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-531 1234; www.bumisurabaya.com; Jl Basuki Rahmat 106-128; r from 1,742,000Rp; aWs)
A self-styled 'city resort', this former Hyatt is one of Surabaya's best sleeps. Rooms are plush and spacious with all the modern convenience you'd expect in a four-star hotel. The breakfast buffet will sate you until dinner.
5Eating
You won’t be left hungry in Surabaya – the city has a huge array of eating options. Local dishes include rawon, a thick, black beef soup that tastes better than it sounds.
For cheap eats, Pasar Genteng ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Genteng Besar; mains 8000Rp; h9am-9pm) has good night warungs. Late-night munchies can also be had at the offshoot of Jl Pemuda, opposite the Plaza Surabaya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which buzzes with food-stall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 10,000-20,000Rp) activity around the clock, or among the strip of warungs ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 10,000-20,000Rp) with their backs to the river along Jl Kayun.
In the old city, the once-throbbing Chinese night market, Kya Kya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kembang Jepun; mains 12,000-30,000Rp; h6-11pm), is now far less popular, though there are still a few food stalls here.
For an air-conditioned setting, Tunjungan Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tunjungan; mains 35,000-60,000Rp) has a colossal selection of squeaky-clean Asian and Western restaurants and cafes; the food court is on the 5th floor.
Ahimsa Vegan LoungeVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-535 0466; Jl Kusuma Bangsa 80; dishes 10,000-25,000Rp; h8 am-10 pm; v)
An elegant, upmarket vegetarian restaurant owned by a welcoming Indo-Chinese family, with delicious rice dishes (try nasi hainan, a mixed rice platter), salads and soups, including a vegetarian bakso. No MSG is used, which is nice. As for the muzak...
Soto Ambengan Pak Sadi AsliINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-532 3998; Jl Ambengan 3A; soup 24,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
This dimly lit dive, filled with locals, is the original location of a chain of soto ayam warung with several branches across Surabaya. Short on noodles, long on shredded chicken, the broth brims with oil and turmeric. Drop in a
dollop and a half of the fine sambal and you'll feel nourished and satisfied.
House of Sampoerna CaféINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-353 9000; Jl Taman Sampoerna; mains 30,000-82,000Rp; W)
This cafe is adjacent to the House of Sampoerna museum and occupies a gorgeous colonial structure complete with stained-glass windows and classy seating – a memorable spot for a meal. The menu is divided into East and West, with classic Indonesian-style nasi goreng and Singapore laksa, along with New Zealand steaks and fish and chips.
There are great desserts, espresso and a full bar, including cocktails and cognac.
oLa RucolaITALIAN$$$
(%031-567 8557; www.larucola.asia; Jl Soetomo 51; mains 70,000-220,000Rp; h10.30am-11.30pm)
A delightful Italian bistro serving upmarket Surabaya with authentic wood-fired pizzas and calzones topped and stuffed with bresaola, Italian sausage, oyster mushrooms, beef tenderloin, shrimp and more. It also does a range of perfectly grilled seafood and Australian steaks for an affordable price. The wine-by-the-glass selection is thin, but their bottle list is quite good.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are very few bars in Surabaya and the city does not have much of a drinking culture, though if you look hard enough you can find cold beer and live music.
ColorsPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-503 0562; Jl Sumatra 81)
Popular with expats, this large upmarket pub-club has live music and a DJ every night. There's a full bar and drinks are expensive. It doesn't get going until after 9pm.
3Entertainment
Cinema complexes are found all around the city.
Tunjungan 21CINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.21cineplex.com; Jl Tunjungan, Tunjungan Plaza)
This large cinema complex shows recent Hollywood releases in English and has good sound quality.
8Information
Jl Pemuda has plenty of banks, as does Tunjungan Plaza. All hotels, most restaurants and each shopping mall, including Tunjungan Plaza, have wi-fi.
East Java Regional Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%031-853 1822; Jl Wisata Menanggal; h7am-2pm Mon-Fri)
About 3km south of the centre; has a few brochures on the province.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kebon Rojo; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Inconveniently located 4km north of the city centre.
Rumah Sakit DarmoHOSPITAL
(%031-567 6253; www.rsdarmo.co.id; Jl Raya Darmo 90)
Hospital with English- and Dutch-speaking doctors.
Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-534 0444; Jl Pemuda; h8am-8pm)
Has helpful English-speaking staff, and can offer plenty of leaflets, a map of the city and also a file with good details about backpacker accommodation.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Surabaya Juanda airport is Indonesia’s third busiest and is used by more than 20 airlines. There are international connections to cities in Asia and numerous domestic flights.
AirAsiaAIRLINE
(%021-2927 0999; www.airasia.com)
Flies to Bangkok and the Malaysian cities of Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Domestic routes include Bandung, Denpasar and Medan.
Cathay PacificAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %080 4188 8888; www.cathaypacific.com; Jl Basuki Rachmat 122)
Flies daily to/from Hong Kong.
CitilinkAIRLINE
(%080 4108 0808; www.citilink.co.id)
Flies to Balikpapan, Banjarmasin, Denpasar, Jakarta and Makassar, among other cities.
GarudaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-546 8505; www.garuda-indonesia.com; Jl Basuki Rahmat 106-128)
Connections to over a dozen Indonesian cities, including Bandung, Denpasar, Yogyakarta, Jakarta and Makassar.
Lion AirAIRLINE
(%031-503 6111; www.lionair.co.id; Jl Sulawesi 75)
Lion and its sister airline, Wings, offer flights to Ambon, Balikpapan, Bandung, Banjarmasin, Batam, Denpasar, Jakarta, Kendari, Kupang, Makassar, Manado, Palangkaraya, Tarakan and Yogyakarta.
Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE
(%021-2927 9777; www.sriwijayaair.co.id)
Flies to Balikpapan, Makassar, Manado, Semarang and Yogyakarta.
Boat
Surabaya is an important port and a major transport hub for ships to the other islands. Boats depart from Tanjung Perak harbour; bus P1 from outside Tunjungan Plaza heads here. Pelni ships sail to Makassar in Sulawesi roughly twice a week (economy/1st class from 389,00/965,000Rp), Pontianak in Kalimantan (333,000/614,000Rp) about every 10 days, and Jakarta (243,000/1,500,000Rp) weekly. Head to the Pelni ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-352 1044; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Pahlawan 112) for more information.
Bus
Surabaya’s main bus terminal, called Purabaya (or Bungurasih), is 13km south of the city centre. It's reasonably well organised and computer monitors display bus departure times; however, watch out for pickpockets. Crowded Damri city buses run between the bus terminal and the Jl Tunjungan/Jl Pemuda intersection in the city centre. A metered taxi costs around 70,000Rp.
Buses from Purabaya head to points all over Java, Madura and Bali. Most buses on long-distance routes, such as to Solo, Yogyakarta, Bandung and Denpasar, are night buses that leave in the late afternoon or evening. Bookings can be made at Purabaya bus terminal and travel agencies in the city centre (expect a mark-up). The most convenient bus agents are those on Jl Basuki Rahmat.
All buses heading south of Surabaya on the toll road get caught up in heavy traffic around the Gembol junction, thanks to the snarl-up around the mud volcano. During rush hour this can add an hour to your journey.
Minibus
Door-to-door travel minibuses are not normally a good way of travelling from Surabaya. The city is so big that you can spend two hours just collecting passengers from their hotels and homes before you even get started. Destinations and sample fares include Malang (85,000Rp), Solo (130,000Rp), Yogyakarta (140,000Rp) and Semarang (150,000Rp to 160,000Rp). Cipa Ganti (%031-546 0302; www.cipaganti.co.id) is a recommended company, or you can try the agencies along Jl Basuki Rahmat.
Train
From Jakarta, trains taking the fast northern route via Semarang arrive at the Pasar Turi train station (%031-534 5014) southwest of Kota train station. Trains taking the southern route via Yogyakarta, and trains from Banyuwangi, arrive at Gubeng train station (%031-503 3115) and most carry on through to Kota. Gubeng train station is much more central and sells tickets for all trains. There are only very infrequent, very slow economy-class trains to Malang.
TRANSPORT FROM SURABAYA
BUS
Destination Fare (Rp; Economy/Air-Con) Duration (hr)
Banyuwangi 35,000/52,000 7
Kudus 51,000/66,000 8
Malang 9000/14,5000 2-3
Probolinggo 10,000/16,100 2½
Semarang 57,000/95,000 9
Solo 42,000/75,000 7½
Sumenep 20,000/32,500 4½
TRAIN
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Banyuwangi 130,000 7 2 daily
Probolinggo 70,000 2 2 daily
Semarang 155,000-340,000 4 5 daily
Solo 135,000-285,000 3½-4 6 daily
Yogyakarta 125,000-260,000 5 4 daily
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Taxis from Juanda airport (17km) operate on a coupon system and cost around 160,000Rp to/from the city centre including toll road fees. There are also regular Damri buses (20,000Rp) from the airport to Purabaya bus terminal, and then on to the city centre.
Bus
Surabaya has an extensive city bus network, with normal buses (2000Rp) and patas (express) buses (3000Rp per journey). Watch out for pickpockets, as buses can be crowded. One of the most useful services is the patas P1 bus, which runs from Purabaya bus terminal into the city along Jl Basuki Rahmat. In the r
everse direction, catch it on Jl Tunjungan.
Taxi
Surabaya has air-conditioned metered taxis. Flag fall is 4000Rp to 6000Rp; reckon on around 25,000Rp for a trip of around 4km. Bluebird taxis (%031-372 1234) are the most reliable and can be called in advance. They will also make long-haul trips to Malang and beyond.
Trowulan
Trowulan was once the capital of the largest Hindu empire in Indonesian history. Founded by Singosari prince Wijaya in 1294, it reached the height of its power under Hayam Wuruk (1350–89), who was guided by his powerful prime minister, Gajah Mada. During this time Majapahit received tribute from most of the regions encompassing present-day Indonesia and even parts of the Malay Peninsula.
Its wealth was based on its control of the spice trade and the fertile rice-growing plains of Java. The religion was a hybrid of Hinduism – with worship of the deities Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma – and Buddhism, but Islam was tolerated, and Koranic burial inscriptions found on the site suggest that Javanese Muslims resided within the royal court. The empire came to a catastrophic end in 1478 when the city fell to the north-coast power of Demak, forcing the Majapahit elite to flee to Bali and opening Java up to the Muslim conquest.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 30
