If you have any compassion for animal welfare, Pasar Senggol, the bird and animal market, is best avoided.
Hotel Tugu MalangMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tuguhotels.com/malang; Jl Tugu III; W)
Malang’s most impressive museum isn’t actually a museum at all, but a hotel: the boutique, four-star Hotel Tugu Malang. A showcase for its owner, arguably Indonesia's foremost collector of Asian art and antiquities, the exhibit includes 10th-century ceramics, jade carvings from the 13th century, Ming dynasty porcelain, Qing dynasty woodcarvings and even the complete facade of a Chinese temple. Visitors are welcome to browse the collection, which is spread throughout the hotel premises (though you might consider it polite to buy a drink while you’re here).
Jl Besar IjenAREA
( GOOGLE MAP )
Malang has some wonderful colonial architecture. Just northwest of the centre, Jl Besar Ijen is Malang’s millionaires' row, a boulevard lined with elegant whitewashed mansions from the Dutch era. Many have been substantially renovated, but there’s still much to admire. In late May, the area is closed to traffic and becomes the setting for the city's huge Malang Kembali festival.
Balai KotaNOTABLE BUILDING
(Town Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tugu)
Close to the city centre, the Balai Kota is an immense Dutch administrative building, built in a hybrid of Dutch and Indonesian architectural styles with a tiered central roof that resembles a Javanese mosque.
Pasar BungaMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-5pm)
The flower market, Pasar Bunga, is pleasantly sited around a river valley and is the place to stroll in the morning.
2Activities
Nuansa FajarMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-324531; Jl Kahuripan 11A; massage per hour 50,000Rp, hotel visit per hour 60,000Rp; h5.30am-10pm)
For a great massage (and to support the local community) head to Nuansa Fajar, a training centre that employs blind masseurs. Shiatsu, reflexology and traditional Javanese massages are offered.
TTours
Malang is a good place to set up a tour to Bromo; these are usually on the route via Tumpang. Costs very much depend on numbers and transport, but two/three/four people can expect to pay about 750,000/650,000/500,000Rp per person for a sunrise tour in a 4WD (they usually leave at 1.30am). Options to continue the trip on to Ijen and then Ketapang harbour (for Bali) are also popular.
Trips to southern beaches and temples around Malang are also possible. If you want to create your own itinerary, a day's car hire (with driver) starts at around 600,000Rp.
Helios ToursTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-362741; www.heliostour.net; Jl Pattimura 37)
A well-organised operator with an incredible number of tour options, from standard day-trips to Bromo to hardcore trekking expeditions to Gunung Semeru. Staff are switched-on and deal with lots of travellers.
Jona’s HomestayTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-324678; Jl Sutomo 4)
The owners of this homestay can organise tours to Bromo and around Malang; they also rent scooters to guests.
zFestivals & Events
Malang KembaliCULTURAL
Held in late May, Malang Kembali celebrates ludruk, an old-time music hall tradition that was very popular in Java in the last century. Jl Besar Ijen, home to many wonderful old Dutch villas, is closed to traffic for five days and there’s street theatre, live music, shows, and actors in period costumes. You can also taste traditional food and drinks.
4Sleeping
Jona’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-324678; Jl Sutomo 4; s/d with fan 115,000/130,000Rp, d with air-con from 230,000Rp; aW)
This long-running homestay in a colossal colonial villa, with a digital ticker out front, is run by a sweet family that looks after guests well and offers tours. The location is convenient and quiet, though the rooms have aged somewhat. Some of the air-con options are huge and great value.
Kampong TouristHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-345797; www.kampongtourist.com; Hotel Helios, Jl Patimura 37; dm/r 120,000/160,000Rp; W)S
The owners of this superb backpacking place have fashioned an excellent hostel on the rooftop of Hotel Helios. Most of the buildings have been beautifully constructed from bamboo and timber, and sprout like village huts from the concrete rooftop. Dorm beds are comfy, as are the gazebo-style private rooms, and there's a great shared shower block and guest's kitchen too.
You can tour the town and then socialise in the bar-cafe, with commanding city views, cold beer and snacks into the night. The hostel is solar powered.
Hotel EmmaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-363198; Jl Trunijoyo 21; r with fan and cold water 150,000-175,000Rp, with air-con and hot water 215,000-250,000Rp; a)
Almost opposite the train station, this is a tidy, friendly hotel. Cleanliness is taken seriously, rooms are spacious – the deluxe rooms are enormous – and good value. Many rooms have windows that open onto the interior of the building and these can feel claustrophobic. Breakfast is included.
Hotel HeliosHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-362741; www.hotelhelios-malang.com; Jl Pattimura 37; r with fan/aircon 200,000Rp/312,000Rp ; aW)
Helios has steadily upgraded the quality and prices of its accommodation in recent years. Behind the flash reception you'll find a selection of bright, clean, comfortable rooms, most with flat-screen TVs, high ceilings, and modern bathrooms grouped around a rear garden (and cafe). The economy options are tiny and very spartan. Helios Tours is based here.
Hotel Sahid MontanaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-362751; sahidmontana.com; Jl Kahuripan 9; r 320,000Rp)
A tiled, three-star indoor-outdoor inn, serving mostly domestic tourists. Rooms are set on three floors around a garden gurgling with fountains. It's a decent choice, popular with tour groups.
Hotel Trio Indah IIHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-359083; www.hoteltrio2.com; Jl Brigjen Slamet Riadi 1-3; r 375,000-475,000Rp; aiW)
This hotel's great arched frontage resembles a Victorian railway terminal. It has 37 clean if unexceptional rooms, all with TV and air-con. There’s room service and a cafe.
oHotel Tugu MalangBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-363891; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Tugu III; r from 900,000Rp; aiWs)
For a real flavour of what Java has to offer, this remarkable luxury hotel, loaded with local character and genuine hospitality, sets the standard. It manages to be both laid-back and elegant. Owned by one of the foremost collectors of Indonesian and East Asian antiquities in the country, it doubles as a museum.
Room after room is filled with antiques and priceless artefacts, but that infusion of class and old-world history feels effortless rather than stodgy, mostly because the rooms are so inviting. With thick teak floors, platform king-sized beds, elegant bathrooms, high ceilings and wall-length desks, it's the type of nest that would make the perfect lovers' hideaway. The spa, wine bar and wonderful restaurant don't hurt. There's a reason global royalty have stayed here.
5Eating & Drinking
For cheap eats head for Jl Agus Salim, which comes alive at night to the sights and smells of Malang’s night market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 10,000-25,000Rp). Local specialities are nasi rawon (beef soup served with fried onion and rice) and bakso malang (meatball soup served with noodles and grilled fish), and are always worth a try.
Mie TomcatNOODLES$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Trunijoyo; dishes 6000-9000Rp; h9am-11pm)
A cool new designer warung popular with locals, with a Jenga-like exterior and cherry-wood furnishings inside and out. The staff speak no English but they do know how to make some tasty noodle soup, ramen and mie goreng (fried noodles). Use the helpful chalkboard spice-meter to stretch your personal heat index.
Goreng KremesINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cokroaminoto 2d; dishes 5000-20,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
A
dressed-up warung dangling with lovely rattan lanterns and lined with bamboo wallpaper, serving fried chicken and duck meals to the Malang masses. Platters come with raw cabbage and long beans on the side. Rice costs extra.
AgungINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-357061; Jl Basuki Rahmat 80; mains 12,000-18,000Rp)
This stylish spot has tasty, inexpensive local food including martabak (meat, egg and vegetable pancake-like dish), rice and fish dishes, plus great juices.
Toko OenINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-364052; Jl Basuki Rahmat 5; mains 28,000-67,000Rp; h8am-9:30pm)
Boasting an imposing art deco frontage that dates from 1930, Toko Oen is a throwback to ye olde days, with rattan furniture, waiters in starched whites, and Sinatra on the stereo. It serves middling Indonesian fare and cheap steaks, but it's the ice cream that, for some reason, is renowned among Indonesians. Don't expect much. It's all about the atmosphere here.
KertanegaraINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-704 4141; www.kertanegararesto.com; Jl Kertanegara I; mains 20,000-80,000Rp; hnoon-11pm; v)
Occupying a large corner plot, this upmarket place has a great garden terrace, strung with oh-so-many Christmas lights. It serves flavoursome European, Indonesian and Chinese food with quite a good choice for vegetarians, and lots of seafood.
oMelatiINDONESIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-363891; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Tugu III; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; W)
The Tugu hotel's poolside restaurant is a romantic, atmospheric setting for a meal, with a relaxed air and attentive staff to guide you through the delicious Indonesian and Chinese Peranakan options. Several mixed rice dishes stand out. You can get a Malang version that comes with veggies stewed in coconut milk, marinated beef and died chicken.
Or choose one with turmeric pickles and chicken in coconut cumin sauce. It also does a damn fine rijstaffel (selection of Indonesian dishes served with rice). Western mains include pasta and grilled meats, and are also excellent. The wine list rocks, and there's good whiskey behind the bar.
Ben HouseCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suropati 19; h4pm-2am; W)
A key nightspot for young hipsters, this brickhouse cafe has a great feel. The downstairs interior is decorated with low-rise wood tables and bench seating, funky vintage bicycles and musical instruments. The chalkboard menu offers cold beer, fresh juices, coffee and tea, and there's an inviting, alfresco upper deck.
3Entertainment
Taman Rekreasi SenaputraPERFORMING ARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Brawijaya; admission 7000Rp, children 13yr & under 6000Rp)
Malang’s cultural and recreational park has a swimming pool and children’s playground and some quirky events. Kuda lumping (horse trance) dances (7000Rp) are performed every Sunday morning at 10am. The dancers ride rattan 'horses' then fall into a trance, writhing around on the ground with their eyes bulging.
Still in a trance-like state they perform assorted masochistic acts without any apparent harm, such as eating glass. The bizarre spectacle will not be to everyone's taste.
On a more sober note, wayang kulit shows are regularly held here (usually on the fourth Sunday of the month); the tourist office has the latest schedule.
RRIPERFORMING ARTS
(%0341-387500; Jl Candi Panggung)
About 5km northwest of the city, this place has wayang kulit from 9pm on the first Saturday of the month.
8Information
Malang has plenty of banks; most are congregated along Jl Basuki Rahmat, including BCA ( GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat). Wi-fi is available free at all area guesthouses and hotels, and most restaurants and cafes.
Gunung Bromo National Park Head OfficePARK OFFICE
(%0341-490885; [email protected]; Jl Raden Intan 6; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
For Bromo info.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kauman Merdeka; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Opposite the alun-alun.
Tourist Information KioskTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; alun-alun)
This small kiosk is staffed by students.
Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-558919; Jl Gede 6; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Helpful, but 3km northwest of the alun-alun.
8Getting There & Away
Bus & Angkot
Malang has three bus terminals. Arjosari, 5km north of town, is the main one with regular buses to Surabaya, Probolinggo and Banyuwangi. Long-distance buses to Solo, Yogyakarta, Denpasar and even Jakarta mostly leave in the early evening. Minibuses (called angkot or mikrolet locally) run from Arjosari to nearby villages such as Singosari and Tumpang. Gadang bus terminal is 5km south of the city centre, and sends buses along the southern routes to destinations such as Blitar (33,000Rp to 54,000Rp, two hours). Buses depart Landungsari bus terminal, 5km northwest of the city, to destinations west of the city, such as Batu (10,000Rp, 40 minutes).
BUSES FROM MALANG
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Departures
Banyuwangi 39,500-71,000 7 7am & 1pm
Denpasar 150,000 12 5pm
Jember 22,000-40,000 4½ every 90 minutes
Lovina (Bali) 180,000 12 5.30pm
Probolinggo 22,000-36,000 2½ hourly 5am-5pm
Solo 100,000 10 6.30pm
Surabaya 25,000 2½-3 hourly
Yogyakarta 105,000 11 7am, 1pm, 6.30pm
Minibus
Plenty of door-to-door travel companies operate from Malang, and hotels and travel agencies can book them. Helios Tours and Wijaya Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-327072) are two reliable agencies. Minibuses travel to Solo (150,000Rp), Yogyakarta (150,000Rp) and Probolinggo (60,000Rp). Minibuses to Surabaya (50,000Rp) will drop you off at hotels in Surabaya (thus saving the long haul from Surabaya’s bus terminal), but be warned that this can add up to a couple of hours to your trip.
Taxi
For a reliable taxi company, use Citra (%0341-490555).
Train
Malang train station (%0341-362208) is centrally located but not well connected to the main network. There are three daily trains to Yogyakarta (250,000Rp, eight hours) via Solo. Surabaya is only served by very slow and crowded economy trains. There is also a daily service to Banyuwangi (65,000Rp, 7½ hours), where you can hop on a ferry to Bali.
8Getting Around
Mikrolet run all over town. Most buzz between the bus terminals via the town centre. These are marked A–G (Arjosari to Gadung and return), A–L (Arjosari to Landungsari) or G–L (Gadang to Landungsari). Trips cost 3000Rp.
Around Malang
The lush, palm-dappled rice and corn fields around Malang are scattered with evocative Hindu and Buddhist ruins, making for a fun half-day road trip.
Singosari Temples
The Singosari temples lie in a ring around Malang and are mostly funerary temples dedicated to the kings of the Singosari dynasty (AD 1222–92), the precursors of the Majapahit kingdom.
Tumpang is also home to the Mangun Dhama Arts Centre (%034-178 7907), which has Javanese dance classes and performances, plus some gamelan, wayang and woodcarving courses. Wayang kulit and dance shows can be staged if pre-arranged, and books, dance DVDs, masks, puppets and batik are usually for sale.
If coming from Singosari, go to Blimbing where the road to Tumpang branches off the highway, and then catch a minibus. In Tumpang, the temple is only a short stroll from the main road.
1Sights
Candi SingosariHINDU TEMPLE
(h7am-5pm)F
Situated right in the village of Singosari, 12km north of Malang, this temple stands 500m off the main Malang–Surabaya road. One of the last monuments erected to the Singosari dynasty, it was built in 1304 in honour of King Kertanegara, the fifth and last Singosari king, who died in 1292 in a palace uprising.
The main structure of the temple was completed, but for some reason the sculptors nev
er finished their task. Only the top part has any ornamentation and the kala heads have been left strangely stark. Of the statues that once inhabited the temple’s chambers, only the statue of Agastya (the Shivaite teacher who, legend has it, walked across the water to Java) remains. The statues of Durga and Ganesha that were in the temple are now exhibited in the National Museum in Jakarta. As a result, it lacks the atmosphere of some of the other temples in the area, but locals do still visit to meditate and leave offerings, which is interesting to see.
About 200m beyond the temple are two enormous figures of dwarapala (guardians against evil spirits) wearing clusters of skulls and twisted serpents.
To reach Singosari, take a green angkot (5000Rp) from Malang’s Arjosari bus terminal and get off at the Singosari market on the highway.
Candi SumberawanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(h7am-5pm)F
This small, squat Buddhist stupa lies in the terraced, cultivated foothills of Gunung Arjuna, about 5km northwest of Singosari. It was built to commemorate the 1359 visit of Hayam Wuruk, the great Majapahit king. Within the temple grounds are a lingam stone and the crumbling origins of additional stupa along with the remains of recent offerings. But what makes it special is the approach.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 32
