1Sights
oTaman Tirta GanggaPALACE
( GOOGLE MAP ; admission 20,000Rp, parking 2000Rp; hsite 24hr, ticket office 7am-6pm)
Amlapura's water-loving rajah, after completing his lost masterpiece at Ujung, had another go at building the water palace of his dreams in 1948. He succeeded at Taman Tirta Gangga, which has a stunning crescent of rice-terrace-lined hills for a backdrop.
This multilevel aquatic fantasy features two swimming ponds that are popular on weekends, and ornamental water features filled with huge koi and lotus blossoms, which serve as a fascinating reminder of the old days of the Balinese rajahs. Look for the 11-tiered meru fountain, and plop down under the huge old banyans and enjoy the views.
2Activities
Hiking in the surrounding hills is recommended: the rice terraces around Tirta Gangga are some of the most beautiful in Bali. Back roads and walking paths take you to many picturesque traditional villages, or you can ascend the side of Gunung Agung. Guides are a good idea. Ask at your accommodation, especially Homestay Rijasa. A local guide who comes with good marks is Komang Gede Sutama (%0813 3877 0893). Guide rates average about 75,000Rp per hour for one or two people.
Among the possible hikes is a walk to Pura Lempuyang, one of Bali's nine directional temples, perched on a hilltop on the side of Gunung Lempuyang (1058m); it's around 1½ hours' walk from Tirta Gangga. Another hike is a six-hour loop to Tenganan village, and there are shorter ones across the local hills, which include visits to remote temples and all the stunning vistas you can handle.
oBung Bung Adventure BikingBICYCLE TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3840 2132, 0363-21873; [email protected]; Tirta Gangga; half-/full-day tours from 250,000/300,000Rp)
Ride downhill through the simply gorgeous rice fields, terraces and river valleys around Tirta Gangga with this grassroots tour company. Itineraries last from two to four hours, and include use of a mountain bike and helmet, water and plenty of local encounters. The office is at Homestay Rijasa, across from the Tirta Gangga entrance. Book in advance.
4Sleeping & Eating
You can overnight in luxury in old royal quarters overlooking the water palace, or lodge in humble surrounds in anticipation of an early-morning hike.
Pondok Lembah DukahGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3829 5142; [email protected]; s/d/f 150,000/200,000/350,000Rp)
Atop a hill with divine views over the rice fields, this guesthouse has charming bungalows. Rooms are basic but a stay here is a good chance to get close to local life. It's a 10-minute walk from the palace, down the path to the right of Good Karma guesthouse; follow the signs for 300m along the rice field and then up a steep set of steps.
Homestay RijasaHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-21873; Jl Tirta Gangga; s/d incl breakfast from 100,000/150,000Rp; W)
With elaborately planted grounds, this well-run homestay is located opposite the water palace entrance. Expect to pay around double the price for rooms with hot water, which is good for the large soaking tubs. It has a fantastic little warung at the front.
Tirta Ayu HotelHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-22503; www.hoteltirtagangga.com; Pura Tirta Gangga; villas incl breakfast US$125-200; aWs)
Right in the palace compound, this hotel has two pleasant villas and three rooms that have plenty of royal decor. Enjoy the hotel's private pool or use the vast palace facilities. The restaurant (Pura Tirta Gangga; mains from 65,000Rp; h 7am-9pm) is a tad upscale and serves creative takes on local classics, which come with great water-palace views.
8Getting There & Away
Having your own transport is by far the best means. Unreliable bemos and minibuses making the east-coast haul between Amlapura (7000Rp) and Singaraja stop at Tirta Gangga, which is 6km northwest of Amlapura.
Amed & the Far East Coast
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Stretching from Amed to Bali's far eastern tip, this semi-arid coast draws visitors with its succession of small, scalloped, grey-sand beaches (some more rocks than sand), a relaxed atmosphere and excellent diving and snorkelling.
The coast here is often called simply 'Amed' but this is a misnomer, as the coast is a series of seaside dusun (small villages) that starts with the actual Amed in the north and then runs southeast to Aas. Everything is spread out, so you never feel like you're in the middle of anything, though each township certainly has plenty of signs of a low-key tourist scene.
Traditionally this area has been quite poor, with thin soils, low rainfall and very limited infrastructure. Salt production is still carried out on the beach at Amed. Villages further east rely on fishing, and colourful jukung (traditional boats) line up on every available piece of beach. Inland, the steep hillsides are generally too dry for rice; corn, peanuts and vegetables are the main crops.
2Activities
Diving & Snorkelling
Snorkelling is excellent along the coast. Jemeluk is a protected area where you can admire live coral and plentiful fish within 100m of the beach. There are a few bits of wood remaining from a sunken Japanese fishing boat ( GOOGLE MAP ) at Banyuning – just offshore from Eka Purnama bungalows – and you'll find coral gardens and colourful marine life at Selang. Snorkelling equipment rents for about 30,000Rp per day.
Diving is also good, with dive sites off Jemeluk, Lipah and Selang featuring coral slopes and drop-offs with soft and hard corals, and abundant fish. Some sites are accessible from the beach, while others require a short boat ride. The Liberty wreck at Tulamben is only a 20-minute drive away.
Several dive operators have shown a commitment to the communities by organising regular beach clean-ups and educating locals on the need for conservation. All operators have similar prices for a long list of offerings (eg local dives from about US$80 and open-water dive courses from about US$400).
Eco-DiveDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-23482; www.ecodivebali.com; Jemeluk Beach; W)S
Full-service dive operator with simple, cheap accommodation for clients. Has led the way on environmental issues.
Hiking
Quite a few trails go inland from the coast, up the slopes of Gunung Seraya (1175m) and to some little-visited villages. The countryside is sparsely vegetated and most trails are well defined, so you won't need a guide for shorter walks; if you get lost, just follow a ridge-top back down to the coast road. Allow a good three hours to get to the top of Seraya, starting from the rocky ridge just east of Jemeluk Bay; ask for directions. Sunrise is spectacular but requires a climb in the dark; ask at your hotel about a guide.
4Sleeping
The Amed region is very spread out, so take this into consideration when choosing accommodation. You will also need to choose between staying in the little beachside villages or on the sunny and dry headlands connecting the inlets. The former puts you right on the sand and offers a small amount of community life while the latter gives you broad, sweeping vistas and isolation.
Jemeluk
You might say what's now called Amed started here.
Hoky Home Stay & CafeHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1646 3701; [email protected]; Jemeluk; r incl breakfast 200,000Rp; W)
This place near the beach offers great cheap rooms with fans and hot water. The owner, Made, is tuned in to budget travellers' needs. The cafe (Jemeluk; mains 25,000Rp; h8am to 10pm) has fresh and creative local foods, especially seafood. Bikes for rent (30,000Rp per day).
Galang Kangin BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-23480; [email protected]; Jemeluk; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 300,000/500,000Rp; aW)
Set on the hill side of the road amid a nice garden, the 10 rooms here mix and match fans, cold water, hot water and air-con. The modern air-con rooms open to the beach, while the fan rooms across the road have a more traditional, ornate Balinese style.
Bunutan
These places are on a sun-drenched, arid stretch of highland.
oWawa-Wewe IIHOTEL$$
This restful place has 10 bungalow-style rooms on lush grounds that shamble down to the water's edge. The natural-stone infinity pool is shaped like a Buddha and is near the sea, as are two rooms with fine ocean views.
SantaiHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-23487; www.santaibali.com; Bunutan Beach; r incl breakfast US$87-163; aWs)
This lovely option is set on a slight hill down to the beach. The name means 'relax', and that's just what you'll do here. A series of authentic traditional thatched bungalows gathered from around the archipelago holds 10 rooms with four-poster beds, open-air bathrooms and big balcony sofas. A swimming pool, fringed by purple bougainvillea, snakes through the property.
Lipah
This coastal village is just large enough for you to go wandering – briefly.
Coral View VillasHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.coralviewvillas.com; Lipah; r from US$90; aWs)
Lush grounds surrounding a naturalistic pool set this tidy property apart from other more arid places. The 19 rooms are in bungalow-style units and have nice terraces outside; inside, the rooms are large and there are stone-lined open-air bathrooms.
Lehan
Quiet, beachy Lehan has some of Amed's nicest boutique-style accommodation.
Palm GardenHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9769 1850; www.palmgardenamed.com; Lehan; r incl breakfast US$110-250; aiW)
This oceanfront villa hotel verges on elegant. Certainly it has the best beach in Amed. The 10 units have large patios and the grounds are lined with palm trees, including one growing from its own island in the pool. There's a two-night minimum stay in high season.
Aas
The last community of any size on the road from Amed, Aas is very quiet.
oMeditasiGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 372 2738; www.meditasibungalows.blogspot.com; Aas; r 300,000-500,000Rp)
Get off the grid at this chilled-out and charming hideaway. Meditation and yoga help you relax, and the eight rooms are well situated for good swimming and snorkelling. By far the best bet are the villa-style bungalows, complete with private garden, open-air bathrooms and balconies with superb sea views. Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat, Prey, Love, stayed in room 7.
5Eating & Drinking
Most accommodation also has a cafe.
oWarung EnakBALINESE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1567 9019; Jemeluk; mains from 50,000Rp; h9am-11pm)
Black rice pudding and other less-common local treats are the specialities of this dead-simple and supertasty little eatery. Also does a fresh catch of the day and homemade ice cream.
oSmiling Buddha RestaurantBALINESE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 372 2738; Aas; meals from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; v)
The restaurant at this highly recommended guesthouse has excellent organic fare, much sourced from its own garden. Balinese and Western dishes are excellent and original, and there are good views out to sea. The place even manages some full moon fun. Happy hour is from 7pm to 8pm.
Green Leaf CafeCAFE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3826 7356; www.apneista.com; Jemeluk; mains from 35,000Rp; h8.30am-6.30pm; v)
After you've chilled out, chill out some more. This excellent cafe has a good vegetarian menu, with many specials. There's a wide range of coffees, teas and juices. Sit at a table inside or on loungers outside. This is also a hub for yoga and freediving.
Wawa-Wewe IBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-23506; Lipah; h8am-late; W)
You won't know your wawas from your wewes if you spend the evening here trying the local arak (distilled palm wine) made with palm fronds. This is the coast's most raucous bar – which by local standards means that sometimes it gets sorta loud. Local bands jam on Wednesday and Saturday nights. Meals are served (from 35,000Rp) and it also has budget rooms.
8Information
You may be charged a tourist tax to enter the area. Enforcement of a 5000Rp per-person fee at a tollbooth on the outskirts of Amed is sporadic. There are several ATMs, but best not to rely on them. Wi-fi is nearly universal.
8Getting There & Around
Most people drive here via the main highway from Amlapura and Culik. The spectacular road going all the way around the twin peaks of Lempuyang and Seraya from Aas to Ujung makes a good circle.
You can arrange for a driver and car to/from south Bali and the airport for about 500,000Rp.
Public transport is difficult. Minibuses and bemos between Singaraja and Amlapura pass through Culik, the turn-off for the coast. Infrequent bemos go from Culik to Amed (3.5km), and some continue to Seraya until 1pm. Fares average 10,000Rp.
You can also charter transport from Culik for a negotiable 50,000Rp (by ojek it's less than half). Specify which hotel you wish to go to; agree just on 'Amed' and you could come up short in Amed village.
Amed Sea Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6306 4799; www.gili-sea-express.com; Jemeluk; per person from 300,000Rp) and Kuda Hitam Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 3869 2853; www.kudahitamexpress.com; Jemeluk) are two reputable companies that make crossings to Gili Trawangan and Gili Air in less than an hour for around 250,000Rp to 300,000Rp. Both can arrange hotel pickup.
FREEDIVING
For those wanting to dive but not deal with all the cumbersome breathing apparatus, decompression etc (not to mention high costs), freediving is a good alternative. This form of diving involves learning techniques to allow you to hold your breath for several minutes and reach similar depths to diving with equipment.
Several operators along the east Bali coast offer both beginner and advance courses in freediving.
Apnea BaliDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 6612 5814; www.apneabali.com; Jl Kubu-Abang; lessons from US$60)
This polished operator on Tulamben's main strip specialises in a variety of freediving courses and trips, including down to the Liberty wreck.
ApneistaDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3826 7356; www.apneista.com; Green Leaf Cafe, Jemeluk; 2-day courses US$200; h8.30am-10pm)
Set up in Jemeluk's popular Green Leaf Cafe, Apneista has run freediving courses and trips out of Amed for several years.
Tulamben
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The big attraction here sunk more than 60 years ago. The wreck of the US cargo ship Liberty is among the best and most popular dive sites in Bali, and this has given rise to an entire town based on scuba diving. Even snorkellers can easily swim out and enjoy the wreck and the coral.
But if you don't plan to explore the briny waves, don't expect to hang out on the beach either. The shore is made up of rather beautiful, large washed stones, the kind that cost a fortune at a DIY store.
For nonaquatic delights, check out the morning market in Tulamben village, 1.5km north of the dive site.
2Activities
Diving and snorkelling are the reason Tulamben exists.
The shipwreck Liberty is about 50m directly offshore from Puri Madha Beach Bungalows (where you can park); look for the schools of black snorkels. Swim straight out and you'll see the stern rearing up from the depths, heavily encrusted with coral and swarming with dozens of species of colourful fish – and with scuba divers most of the day. The ship is more than 100m long, but the hull is broken into sections and it's easy for divers to get inside. The bow is in quite good shape; the midship's region is badly mangled; and the stern is almost intact – the best parts are between 15m and 30m deep. You will want at least two dives to really explore the wreck.
Many divers commute to Tulamben from Amed, Candidasa or Lovina, and in busy times it can get quite crowded between 11am and 4pm, with 50 or more divers at a time around the wreck. Stay the night in Tulamben or in nearby Amed and get an early start.
Most hotels have their own diving centre, and some offer good-value packages if you dive with them as well.
Expect to pay from US$80 for two dives at Tulamben, and a little more for
night dives around Amed. Snorkelling gear is rented everywhere for 30,000Rp.
Tauch TerminalDIVING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0363-774504, 0363-22911; www.tauch-terminal.com; 1/2 dives €29/55)
Among the many dive operators, Tauch Terminal is one of the longest-established in Bali. It also offers unlimited 24-hour nonboat diving for €105; you need to book this in advance. A four-day SSI open-water certificate course costs €420. It also runs its own dive resort.
THE WRECK OF THE LIBERTY
In January 1942 the small US Navy cargo ship USAT Liberty was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine near Lombok. Taken in tow, it was beached at Tulamben so that its cargo of rubber and railway parts could be saved. The Japanese invasion prevented this, however, and the ship sat on the beach until the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung broke it in two and left it just off the shoreline, much to the delight of scores of divers.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tulamben is a quiet place, and is essentially built around the wreck. Hotels, all with cafes and many with dive shops, are spread along a 4km stretch either side of the main road. You have your choice of places roadside (cheaper) or by the water (nicer). At high tide even the rocky shore vanishes.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 53
