1Sights & Activities
Almost everything in the Munduk area is at an elevation of at least 1000m. Numerous trails are suitable for hikes of two hours or much longer to coffee plantations, rice paddies, waterfalls, villages, or around both Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan. You will be able to arrange a guide through your lodgings.
Munduk WaterfallWATERFALL
(Tanah Braak; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 5000Rp)
About 2km east of Munduk, look for signs for this waterfall (aka Tanah Braak) along the road. Though the signs say the trail is 700m long, it seems to be an underestimate. This is the easiest waterfall to access in the area without a map or guide.
4Sleeping & Eating
The hikes around Munduk draw many visitors, and consequently there are many places for them to stay. Enjoy simple old Dutch houses in the village or more naturalistic places in the countryside. Most have cafes, usually serving good local fare. There are a couple of cute warungs in the village and a few stores with very basic supplies (including bug spray).
Meme SurungGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0001 2887; www.memesurung.com; r incl breakfast from 200,000Rp; W)
Two atmospheric old Dutch houses adjoin to form a compound of 11 rooms, immersed among an English-style garden. The decor is traditional and simple; the view from the long wooden veranda is both the focus and joy here. It's located along the main strip of Munduk's township.
oPuri Lumbung CottagesGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0021 0675; www.purilumbung.com; cottages incl breakfast US$83-173; iW)S
Founded by Nyoman Bagiarta to develop sustainable tourism, this lovely hotel has 43 bright two-storey thatched cottages and rooms set among rice fields. Enjoy intoxicating views (units 32 to 35 have the best) from the upstairs balconies. Dozens of trekking options and courses are offered.
Villa Dua BintangGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-401 1416, 0812 3700 5593; www.villaduabintang.com; Jl Batu Galih; r incl breakfast 800,000Rp; Ws)
Hidden 500m down a tree-shaded lane that's off the main road, 1km east of Munduk. Four gorgeous rooms are elaborately built amid fruit trees and forest (two rooms are family-size). The scent of cloves and nutmeg hangs in the air from the porch. There's a cafe, and the family who owns it is lovely.
Don BiyuCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3709 3949; www.donbiyu.com; mains 26,000-80,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm; W)
Catch up on your blog; enjoy good coffee; zone out before the sublime views; and choose from a mix of Western and interesting Asian fare. Dishes are served in mellow open-air pavilions. It also has six double rooms (600,000Rp), all with balconies and views. It's on the main road leading into Munduk.
Ngiring NgewedangCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 380 7010; www.ngiringngewedang.com; snacks 15,000-40,000Rp; h10am-5pm)
Stop in at this coffeehouse, 5km east of Munduk; it grows its own coffee on the surrounding slopes.
8Getting There & Away
Minibuses leave Ubung terminal in Denpasar for Munduk (22,000Rp) but only if there are enough passengers. Driving to the north coast, the main road west of Munduk goes through a number of picturesque villages to Mayong (where you can head south to west Bali). The road then goes down to the sea at Seririt in north Bali.
Gunung Batukau Area
Often overlooked (probably a good thing, given what the vendor hordes have done to Gunung Agung in the east), Gunung Batukau is Bali’s second-highest mountain (2276m), the third most spiritually significant of Bali’s three major mountains and the holy peak of the island’s western end. Enjoy a magical visit to one of the island’s holiest and most evocative temples, Pura Luhur Batukau, and revel in the ancient rice-terrace greenery around Jatiluwih.
1Sights
oPura Luhur BatukauHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; donation 20,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
On the slopes of Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau was the state temple when Tabanan was an independent kingdom. It has a seven-roofed meru dedicated to Maha Dewa, the mountain's guardian spirit, as well as shrines for Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. This is certainly the most spiritual temple you can easily visit in Bali. Outside the compound, the temple is surrounded by forest, and the atmosphere is cool and misty; the chants of priests are backed by singing birds.
Rice FieldsVIEWPOINT
(per person 20,000Rp, plus per car 5000Rp)
At Jatiluwih, which means ‘Truly Marvellous’, you'll be rewarded with vistas of centuries-old rice terraces that exhaust your ability to describe green. The terraces have received Unesco World Heritage status, listed in recognition of the ancient rice-growing culture. You’ll understand why just by viewing the panorama from the narrow, twisting 18km road leading in and out of town, but do get out for a rice-field walk. Follow the water as it runs through channels and bamboo pipes from one plot to the next.
There’s a road toll for visitors.
8Getting There & Away
The only realistic way to explore the Gunung Batukau area is with your own transport.
North Bali
The land on the other side of the map, that's north Bali. Although one-sixth of the island's population lives here, the vast region is overlooked by many visitors who stay trapped in the south Bali−Ubud axis.
The big draw here is the incredible diving and snorkelling at Pulau Menjangan. Arcing around a nearby bay, Pemuteran may be Bali's best beach town. To the east is Lovina, a sleepy beach strip with cheap hotels and even cheaper sunset beer specials. All along the north coast are interesting little boutique hotels, while inland you'll find quiet treks to waterfalls.
Getting to north Bali for once lives up to the cliché: it's half the fun. Routes follow the thinly populated coastlines east and west, or you can go up and over the mountains by any number of routes, marvelling at crater lakes and maybe stopping for a misty trek on the way.
Singaraja
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With a population of more than 120,000 people, Singaraja (which means 'Lion King') is Bali's second-largest city and the capital of Buleleng Regency, which covers much of the north. With its tree-lined streets, Dutch colonial buildings and charmingly sleepy waterfront area north of Jl Erlangga, it's worth exploring for a couple of hours. Most people stay in nearby Lovina.
Singaraja was the centre of Dutch power in Bali and remained the administrative centre for the Lesser Sunda Islands (Bali through to Timor) until 1953. Today, Singaraja is a major educational and cultural centre.
1Sights
At the old harbour and waterfront along the canals you can still get a little feel of the colonial port that was the main entrance to Bali before WWII.
Check out the cinematically decrepit old Dutch warehouses ( GOOGLE MAP ) opposite the water. A couple of warungs have been built on stilts over the water. Walk up Jl Imam Bonjol and you'll see the art deco lines of late-colonial Dutch buildings.
Museum BulelengMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran 23; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)F
Museum Buleleng recalls the life of the last radja (rajah; prince) of Buleleng, Pandji Tisna, who is credited with developing tourism in Lovina to the west. Among the items here is the Royal (brand) typewriter he used during his career as a travel writer before his death in 1978. It also traces the history of the region back to when there was no history.
Gedong Kirtya LibraryLIBRARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-22645; Jl Veteran 23; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri)
This small historical library was established in 1928 by Dutch colonialists and named after the Sanskrit for 'to try'. It has a collection of lontar (dried palm leaf) books, as well as some even older written works in the form of inscribed copper plates called prasasti. Dutch publications, dating back to 1901, may interest students of the colonial period. It's on the same grounds as Museum Buleleng.
5Eating
ManalagiBALINESE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sahadewa 8A; mains from 12,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Down a
pretty tree-shaded street, this recently remodelled Balinese restaurant sits in its own compound and is very popular with locals looking for a special meal that includes fresh fish.
8Getting There & Away
Singaraja is the main transport hub for the northern coast, with three bemo/bus terminals. From the Sangket terminal, 6km south of town on the main road, minibuses go to Denpasar (Ubung terminal; 25,000Rp) via Bedugul/Pancasari sporadically.
The Banyuasri terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ), on the western side of town, has buses heading to Gilimanuk (25,000Rp, two hours) and bemos to Lovina (8000Rp). For Java, several companies have services, which include the ferry trip across the Bali Strait. Buses go as far as Yogyakarta (from 360,000Rp, 16 hours) and Jakarta (from 455,000Rp, 24 hours) – book at the Banyuasri terminal a day before.
The Penarukan terminal, 2km east of town, has bemos to Yeh Sanih (10,000Rp) and Amlapura (about 20,000Rp, three hours) via the coastal road; and also minibuses to Denpasar (Batubulan terminal, 30,000Rp, three hours) via Kintamani.
Lovina
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'Relaxed' is how people most often describe Lovina, and they are correct. This low-key, low-rise, low-priced beach resort is the polar opposite of Kuta.
The Lovina tourist area stretches over 8km, and consists of a string of coastal villages – Kaliasem, Kalibukbuk, Anturan and Tukad Mungga – collectively known as Lovina.
The 'centre' and heart of Lovina is Kalibukbuk, a village 10.5km west of Singaraja. Mellow Jl Mawar is quieter and more pleasant than Jl Bina Ria. Small gang (alleys) lined with cheap places to stay lead off both streets.
Lovina Beaches
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Spice DiveA2
4Sleeping
2Harris HomestayB2
3Padang LovinaB2
4Sea Breeze CabinsB2
5Villa Taman GaneshaC2
5Eating
6AkarB2
7Global Village KafeB2
8Jasmine KitchenB2
9Night MarketC3
10SeyuB2
Warung MusicB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
11Kantin 21A3
12Poco LoungeB2
rBeaches
The beaches are made up of washed-out grey and black volcanic sand, and while they're mostly clean near the hotel areas, they're not spectacular. Reefs protect the shore, calming the waves and keeping the water clear.
2Activities
Dolphin-Watching
Sunrise boat trips to see dolphins are Lovina's much-hyped tourist attraction. Expect pressure from your hotel and various touts selling dolphin trips. The price is fixed at 100,000/50,000Rp per adult/child by the boat-owners' cartel.
Trips start at a non-holiday-like 6am and last about two hours. Note that the ocean can get pretty crowded with loud, roaring powerboats.
There's great debate about what all this means to the dolphins.
Diving & Snorkelling
Diving on the local reef is better at lower depths. Night diving is popular. Many people stay here and dive Pulau Menjangan, a two-hour drive west.
Generally, the water is clear and some parts of the reef are quite good for snorkelling. The best place is to the west, a few hundred metres offshore from Billibo Beach Cottages. A two-hour boat trip will cost about 200,000Rp, including equipment.
Spice DiveDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 0001 2666; www.balispicedive.com; off Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; 2-tank dives from €40; h8am-9pm)
Spice Dive is a large operation. It offers snorkelling trips and night dives (€60), plus popular Pulau Menjangan trips (snorkel/dive €55/80). It’s based at the west end of the beach path, with Spice Beach Club, and at an office on Jl Bina Ria.
Hiking
oKomang DodikHIKING
(%0877 6291 5128; [email protected]; hikes from 400,000Rp)
Komang Dodik leads hikes in the hills along the north coast. Trips can last from three to seven hours. The highlight of most trips is a series of waterfalls, more than 20m high, in a jungle grotto. Routes can include coffee, clove and vanilla plantations.
CCourses
oWarung Bambu PemaronCOOKING COURSE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-31455; www.warung-bambu.mahanara.com; Pemaron; classes for 1/2 people from 620,000/825,000Rp; h8am-1pm)
Start with a trip to a large Singaraja food market and then, in a breezy setting amid rice fields east of Lovina, learn to cook up to nine classic Balinese dishes. Levels range from beginner to advanced, and there are vegetarian options. The staff are charming, and the fee includes transport within the area. When you're done you get to feast on your labours.
4Sleeping
Hotels are spread out along Jl Raya Lovina, and on the side roads going off to the beach. Overall, choices tend to be more budget-focused; don't come here for a luxe experience.
oHarris HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41152; Gang Binaria, Kalibukbuk; s/d incl breakfast 130,000/150,000Rp; W)
Sprightly, tidy and white, Harris avoids the weary look of some neighbouring cheapies. The charming family lives in the back; guests enjoy four bright, modern rooms up the front.
Sea Breeze CabinsGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41138; off Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; r incl breakfast from 350,000-400,000Rp; aWs)
One of the best choices in the heart of Kalibukbuk, the Sea Breeze has five bungalows and two rooms by the pool and the beach, some with sensational views from their verandas. The only downside is that it can get noisy from nearby bars at night.
Padang LovinaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41302; [email protected]; Gang Binaria, Kalibukbuk; r with fan/air-con 250,000/300,000Rp; aWs)
Down a narrow lane in the very heart of Kalibukbuk, 12 comfortable, unpretentious bungalow-style rooms are set around spacious grounds teeming with flowers. The nicest rooms have air-con and bathtubs. There's wi-fi by the pool.
Villa Taman GaneshaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41272; www.taman-ganesha-lovina.com; Jl Kartika 45; r €30-60; aWs)
This lovely guesthouse is down a quiet lane lined with Balinese family compounds. The grounds are lush and fragrant with frangipani from around the world that have been collected by the owner, a landscape architect from Germany. The four units are private and comfortable. The beach is 400m away and it's a 10-minute walk along the sand to Kalibukbuk.
5Eating
Just about every hotel has a cafe or restaurant. Walk along the beach footpath to choose from a selection of basic places for cold beer, standard food and sunsets.
A small night market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; mains from 15,000Rp; h5-11pm) is a good choice for fresh and cheap local food.
Warung MusicINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; mains from 25,000Rp; h8am-late)
A humble store with a few tables and chairs out front, Warung Music does tasty inexpensive meals. It has a great local feel and is the place to hang out with a cheap drink before hitting the bars. The staff are exceptionally friendly and it's a good spot to meet new friends, locals and tourists alike.
Global Village KafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41928; Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; mains from 19,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
Che Guevara, Mikhail Gorbachev and Nelson Mandela are just some of the figures depicted in the paintings lining the walls of this artsy cafe. The baked goods, fruit drinks, pizzas, breakfasts and much more are excellent. There are free book and DVD exchanges, plus a selection of local handicrafts. Watch for art-house movie nights.
AkarVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 972 4717; Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; mains 40,000-65,000Rp; h7am-10pm; Wv)S
The many shades of green at this vegetarian cafe aren’t just for show. They reflect the earth-friendly ethics of the owners. Enjoy organic smoothies, house-made gelato, and fresh and tasty international dishes, such as chargrilled aubergine filled with fe
ta and chilli.
oJasmine KitchenTHAI$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41565; Gang Binaria, Kalibukbuk; mains from 55,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
The Thai fare at this elegant two-level restaurant is excellent. The menu is long and authentic, and the staff are gracious. Try the homemade ice cream for dessert and enjoy to the sounds of soft jazz. You can refill water bottles here for 2000Rp. The ground-floor coffee bar is a fine stop.
oSeyuJAPANESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41050; www.seyulovina.com; Gang Binaria, Kalibukbuk; dishes from 50,000Rp; h11am-10pm; W)
This authentic Japanese place has a skilled sushi chef and a solid list of fresh nigiri and sashimi choices. The dining room is suitably spare and uncomplicated.
6Drinking & Nightlife
In the evenings Lovina shrugs off its sleepy daytime demeanour to offer suprisingly spirited nightlife.
Kantin 21BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 460 7791; Jl Raya Lovina, Kalibukbuk; h11pm-late; W)
The place to head for a night out on 'the town', this open-air venue has a long drinks list, fresh juices and a few local snacks. On many nights, a local band plays after 9pm.
Poco LoungeBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0362-41535; Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk; h2pm-2am; W)
Cover bands perform nightly at this popular bar-cafe. Classic traveller fare is served at tables open to street life at the front and the river at the back.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 55
