Hotel ElenHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693077; Jl Raya Senggigi; r fan/air-con from 120,000/200,000Rp; aW)
Elen is the long-time backpackers' choice. Rooms are very basic, but those facing the waterfall fountain and koi pond come with spacious tiled patios that catch the ocean breeze.
Sendok HotelINN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693176; www.sendokhotellombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; r fan/air-con from 250,000/400,000Rp; aWs)
This guesthouse is more attractive than the (friendly) pub it sits behind. The 28 rooms pair lovely Javanese antiques with garish tiles, and have high ceilings and decent bathrooms; all are bright and airy with their own private front porch. Some rooms have hot water.
Sonya HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3989 9878; Jl Raya Senggigi; r 100,000-160,000Rp; aW)
A shady family-run enclave of nine very simple rooms (the cheapest are fan-only) with nice patios. Nathan, the owner, offers driving tours of Mataram and the surrounding area. It’s off the road amid a small garden.
Batu Bolong CottagesHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693065, 0370-693198; [email protected]; Jl Raya Senggigi; r 400,000-800,000Rp; aWs)
Charming two-level bungalow-style rooms by the sand are the best bets at this well-run hotel, which straddles both sides of the road south of the centre. The beachfront rooms have quaint touches such as carved doors, and there's a lovely pool area. The rest of the rooms are in more standard two-storey blocks. Good breakfast.
Sunset HouseHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-692020; www.sunsethouse-lombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi 66; r 500,000-800,000Rp; aWs)
Offers 35 rooms, all with a tasteful, well-equipped simplicity, in a quiet oceanfront location towards Pura Batu Bolong. Rooms on the upper floors have sweeping ocean views towards Bali. Wi-fi is only available in public areas.
Chandi Boutique ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-692198; www.the-chandi.com; Batu Bolong; r 1,800,000-2,200,000Rp; aWs)
This stylish boutique hotel that still manages a lot of thatch is about 1km south of Pura Batu Bolong. Each of the 15 rooms has an outdoor living room, and a hip modern interior with high ceilings and groovy outdoor bathrooms. The ample oceanfront perch is likely to absorb your daylight hours.
Mangsit
oQunci VillasRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693800; www.quncivillas.com; Mangsit; r US$140-250; aWs)
A spectacular, lovingly imagined property that comes close to a luxe experience. Everything from the food to the lovely pool area to the spa, and especially the sea views (160m of beachfront), is magical. It has 78 rooms that, together with the other diversions here, give you little reason to leave.
Jeeva KluiRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693035; www.jeevaklui.com; Jl Raya Klui Beach; r from US$160, villas from US$250; aWs)
This is why you came to the tropics: a palm-shaded, shimmering infinity pool and a lovely, almost private, beach, sheltered by a rocky outcrop. The 35 rooms are stylishly thatched, and have bamboo columns and private porches. Villas are luxurious, private and have their own pools. It's one bay north of Mangsit.
5Eating & Drinking
Senggigi's dining scene ranges from tourist-friendly dining to simple warungs. Many places offer free transport for evening diners – phone for a ride. Few visitors miss the chance to enjoy a sunset beverage at one of the many low-key places along the beach.
Not long ago, Senggigi's bar scene was pretty vanilla with most cafes and restaurants doing double duty. However, now, like something out of a Pattaya fever-dream, huge breeze-block buildings have been built on the outskirts of the centre, and feature arrays of 'karaoke' joints and massage parlours.
Senggigi
oCafe Tenda Cak PoerINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 12,000-20,000Rp; h6pm-late)
Barely enclosed, this roadside warung (food stall) wows the stool-sitting masses with hot-outta-the-wok Indo classics. Get the nasi goreng (fried rice) made extra hot (ekstra pedas) and with extra garlic (bawang putih ekstra) and you'll be smiling through tears and sweating.
OfficeINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693162; Jl Raya Senggigi, Pasar Seni; mains 25,000-70,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
This pub near the euphemistic 'art market' offers typical Indonesian and Western choices along with pool tables, ball games and barflies. It also has a Thai menu, which is the choice of those in the know. Tables on the sand near fishing boats are among Senggigi's best places for a relaxed sunset drink.
oWarung MenegaSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-663 4422; Jl Raya Senggigi, Pantai Batu Layar; meals 80,000-250,000Rp; h11am-11pm)
If you fled Bali before experiencing the Jimbaran fish grills, you can make up for it at this beachside seafood barbecue. Choose from a daily catch of barracuda, squid, snapper, grouper, lobster, tuna and prawns – all of which are grilled over smouldering coconut husks and served on candlelit tables on the sand.
Banana Tree CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 30,000-120,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
One of the better choices in the centre, this cheery cafe is set back from the road buzz and has a nice seating area to the rear. It's number-one appeal is the coffee bar operated by skilful baristas. Food spans the globe, from Indo classics to Italian to seafood. It's all fresh and tasty.
Bambu LoungeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6547 7443; off Jl Raya Senggigi, Senggigi Square; mains 30,000-120,000Rp; W)
Indo, Indian, Greek, the list goes on! The talented chef-owner here serves up an eclectic menu of favourites that are actually quite good. Find repose at a table surrounded by potted plants outside or in the cute interior. Enjoy a cold drink and merrily graze away.
Cafe AlbertoITALIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693039; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains from 50,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
A long-standing, beachside Italian kitchen, this place serves a variety of pasta dishes but is known for its pizza. It offers free transport to and from your hotel. Best bet: wiggling your toes in the sand while sipping a cold one under the moonlight.
North of Senggigi
oCoco BeachINDONESIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 578 0055; Pantai Kerandangan; mains from 60,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; v)
This wonderful beachside restaurant has a blissfully secluded setting off the main road. It's pretty and stylish, with many choices for vegetarians. The nasi goreng is locally renowned and the seafood is the best in the area. It has a full bar and blends its own authentic jamu (herbal medicines) tonics. It's about 2km north of central Senggigi.
8Information
The nearest hospitals are in Mataram. ATMs abound.
Tourist PolicePOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-632733)
8Getting There & Away
Boat
Fast boats to Bali leave from the large pier ( GOOGLE MAP ) right in the centre of the beach. A ticket office is out on the pier.
Marina SrikandiBOAT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361 729818; marinasrikandi.com; Senggigi Pier; one-way from 375,000Rp)
Has daily fast boats to Padangbai.
PeramaBUS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693008; www.peramatour.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; h8am-8pm)
Has an economical shuttle-bus service that connects with the public ferry from Lembar to Padangbai, Balii (125,000Rp), from where there are onward shuttle-bus connections to Sanur, Kuta and Ubud (all 175,000Rp). These trips can take eight or more hours. It also offers a bus-and-boat connection to the Gilis for a reasonable 150,000Rp (two hours). It saves some hassle at Bangsal Harbour.
ScootBOAT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0828 9701 5565; www.scootcruise.com; Senggigi Pier; one-way US$60)
Has daily fast boats to Padangbai and Sanur on Bali.
Bemo & Taxi
Regular bemos travel between Senggigi and Ampenan's Kebon Roek terminal (30
00Rp), where you can connect to Mataram. Wave them down on the main drag.
A taxi to Lembar is 150,000Rp.
Metered taxis to the airport in Praya cost about 150,000Rp and take an hour.
There's no public bemo service north to Bangsal Harbour. A metered taxi costs about 90,000Rp.
8Getting Around
Senggigi's central area is easy to negotiate on foot. If you're staying further from the centre, many restaurants offer a free lift for diners. Otherwise hop a metered Blue Bird Lombok Taksi.
Senggigi to Bangsal
As you head north along the scalloped coast from Senggigi, you catch glimpses of the white-sand-ringed Gilis glowing in the sun. The bays that make up the coast here are undeveloped, picture-perfect crescents backed by palm trees.
About 20km north of Senggigi is the wide bay of Teluk Nare/Teluk Kade. This is where several fast-boat companies stop as part of their service linking Bali and the Gilis. Private boats belonging to Gili Trawangan resorts use private docks here.
Another 5km brings you to the turn for Bangsal Harbour (Click here) and the busy public boats serving the Gilis.
Bangsal to Bayan
%0370
Lombok quickly becomes uncommercial and almost pastoral as you head north from Bangsal. Watch for Rinjani views.
Public transport north from Bangsal is infrequent. Several minibuses a day go from the Mandalika terminal in Mataram to Bayan, but you'll have to get connections in Pemenang and/or Anyar, which can be difficult to navigate. Simplify things and get your own wheels.
Sire
A hidden upmarket enclave, the jutting Sire (or Sira) peninsula seems to be squirting the three Gilis out of its tip. It's blessed with gorgeous, broad white-sand beaches and good snorkelling offshore. Several resorts are now established here, alongside a couple of fishing villages and some amazing private villas.
4Sleeping
oRinjani Beach Eco ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 3677 5960; www.lombok-adventures.com; Karang Atas; bungalows 350,000-900,000Rp; as)S
This gem has bamboo bungalows and villas, each with its own theme; hammocks on private porches; and access to a pool on the black-sand beach. Two cheaper, smaller cold-water bungalows cater to budget travellers. There is also a dive shop and a restaurant, plus sea kayaks and mountain bikes. Waste water is treated and used to water the lush grounds.
oTugu LombokRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-612 0111, 0819 3799 5566; www.tuguhotels.com; bungalows from US$250, villas from US$330; aWs)S
An astonishing hotel, this larger-than-life amalgamation of luxury accommodation, eclectic design and spiritual Indonesian heritage sits on a wonderful white-sand beach. Room decor is a fantasy of Indonesian artistic heritage, while the exquisite spa is modelled on Java's Buddhist Borobudur. Smart green practices abound.
Gondang & Around
Just northeast of Gondang village, a 6km trail heads inland to Air Terjun Tiu Pupas, a 30m waterfall (per person 30,000Rp) that's only worth seeing in the wet season. Trails continue from here to other wet-season waterfalls, including Air Terjun Gangga, the most beautiful of all. A guide (about 90,000Rp) is useful to navigate the confusing trails in these parts.
Bayan
Wektu Telu, Lombok's animist-tinted form of Islam, was born in humble thatched mosques nestled in these Rinjani foothills. The best example is Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq, next to the village of Beleq. Its low-slung roof, dirt floors and bamboo walls reportedly date from 1634, making this mosque the oldest on Lombok. Inside is a huge old drum which served as the call to prayer before PA systems.
WEKTU TELU
Wektu Telu is a complex mixture of Hindu, Islamic and animist beliefs, though it's now officially classified as a sect of Islam. At its forefront is a physical concept of the Holy Trinity. The sun, moon and stars represent heaven, earth and water, while the head, body and limbs represent creativity, sensitivity and control.
As recently as 1965 the vast majority of Sasaks in northern Lombok were Wektu Telu, but under Suharto's 'New Order' government, indigenous religious beliefs were discouraged, and enormous pressure was placed on Wektu Telu to become Wektu Lima (Muslims who pray five times a day). But in the Wektu Telu heartland around Bayan, locals have been able to maintain their unique beliefs by differentiating their cultural traditions (Wektu Telu) from religion (Islam). Most do not fast for the full month of Ramadan and only attend the mosque for special occasions, and there's widespread consumption of brem (alcoholic rice wine).
Senaru
%0370
One of the major gateways to Gunung Rinjani, the scenic villages that make up Senaru merge into one along a steep road with sweeping Rinjani and sea views. Most visitors here are volcano-bound, but beautiful walking trails and spectacular waterfalls beckon to those who aren't.
Senaru derives its name from sinaru, which means light. As you ascend the hill towards the sky and clouds, you'll see just why this makes sense.
1Sights & Activities
Air Terjun Sindang Gila (10,000Rp) is a spectacular set of falls 20 minutes' walk from Senaru via a lovely forest and hillside trail. The hardy make for the creek, edge close and then get pounded by the hard, foaming cascade that explodes over black volcanic stone 40m above.
A further 50 minutes or so uphill is Air Terjun Tiu Kelep, another waterfall with a swimming hole. The track is steep and guides are compulsory (60,000Rp). Long-tailed macaques (locals call them kera) and the much rarer silvered leaf monkey sometimes appear.
In the traditional Sasak village of Dusun Senaru, at the top of the road, locals will invite you to chew betel nut (or tobacco) and show you around for a donation.
Guided walks and community tourism activities can be arranged at most guesthouses – they include a rice-terrace and waterfalls walk (per person 150,000Rp), which takes in Sindang Gila, rice paddies and an old bamboo mosque, and the Senaru panorama walk (per person 150,000Rp), which incorporates stunning views and insights into local traditions.
You do not need a guide to reach Air Terjun Sindang Gila; it's on a well-marked path. A guide to the second waterfall is recommended. However, anyone lurking around the waterfall ticket office is likely not an official guide. Avoid them. Legitimate guides are easy to find in town, especially in the small collection of shops by the entrance to Air Terjun Sindang Gila.
4Sleeping & Eating
All of Senaru's places to stay and eat are strung along the 6.5km-long road that starts in Bayan and runs uphill via Batu Koq to the main Gunung Rinjani park office and Rinjani Trek Centre.
Most of the dozen or so places here are simple mountain lodges, and the cool altitude means you won't need air-con.
oRinjani LighthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0548 5480; www.rinjanilighthouse.mm.st; r 350,000-800,000Rp; W)
Set on a wide plateau just 200m from the Rinjani park office, this impressive guesthouse (with hot water) has thatched-roof bungalows in sizes ranging from double to family. The owners are founts of Rinjani info.
Pondok Senaru & RestaurantLODGE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0362 4129; [email protected]; r 250,000-700,000Rp; aW)
This place has 14 lovely little cottages (most fan-only) with terracotta-tiled roofs, and some well-equipped superior rooms with such niceties as hot water. The restaurant, with tables perched on the edge of a rice-terraced valley, is a sublime place for a meal (mains 20,000Rp to 50,000Rp; open 7am to 9pm). It's at the waterfall entrance.
Sinar RinjaniLODGE$
(%0818 540 673; www.senarutrekking.com; r 200,000-350,000Rp; aW)
The eight rooms here are huge and offer rain showers and king-sized beds; some have hot water and air-con. The rooftop restaurant has outstanding views. The lodge offers good trekking packages, and is 2.1km from the top of the road.
8Information
Rinjani Trek CentreTREKKING
(RTC; %0819 0741 1211; h6am-4pm)
The local guiding and mountaineering collective;
a good stop for information and planning.
8Getting There & Away
From Mandalika terminal in Mataram, catch a bus to Anyar (25,000Rp to 30,000Rp, 2½ hours). Bemos no longer run from Anyar to Senaru, so you'll have to charter an ojek (per person from 20,000Rp, depending on your luggage).
Sembalun Valley
%0376
High on the eastern side of Gunung Rinjani is what could be the mythical Shangri-La: the beautiful Sembalun Valley. This high plateau is ringed by volcanoes and peaks. It's a rich farming region where the golden foothills turn vivid green in the wet season. When the high clouds part, Rinjani goes full frontal from all angles.
The valley has two main settlements, Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung, tranquil breadbaskets primarily concerned with growing cabbage, potatoes, strawberries and, above all, garlic – though trekking tourism brings in a little income, too.
2Activities
Rinjani Information CentreHIKING
(RIC; GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0572 5754; Sembalun Lawang; h6am-6pm)
The Rinjani Information Centre is the place to enquire about Rinjani treks. It has well-informed English-speaking staff and lots of fascinating information panels about the area's flora, fauna, geology and history. It also offers a four-hour Village Walk (per person 150,000Rp, minimum two people) and a two-day rambling Wildflower Walk (per person including guide, porters, meals and camping gear 550,000Rp) past flowery grasslands.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 59
