The following are among the several dozen dive sites mapped in the park and in the waters and islands around Labuanbajo:
Batu Balong A split pinnacle with pristine coral and a relatively light current. The small rock jutting above the water only hints at the wealth of life below.
Crystal Bommie (aka Crystal Rock) Has electric soft corals, turtles, schooling pelagics and strong currents.
Castle Rock (aka Tako Toko Toko) A tremendous sunrise dive site where, with a little luck, you’ll dive with dolphins or see magnificent pinwheels of tropical fish amid strong currents.
Makassar Reef A shallow drift dive over moonscape rubble where massive manta rays school and clean themselves on the rocks. If you’ve never seen mantas before, dive here. It’s (almost) guaranteed.
Multiple shark sightings on a single dive are common (there are a lot of grey reef sharks as well as the humongous plankton-eating whale sharks).
You'll have your pick of excellent dive shops in Labuanbajo and at some of the island resorts. Myriad day trips and live-aboard schemes are on offer.
TTours
In addition to the dedicated tour companies, drivers can also plan and lead trips.
Wicked AdventuresADVENTURE TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3607 9641; www.wickedadventures.com; Arah BTN depan Bandara; 1-day kayak trips from US$100; h10am-6pm)
An offshoot of the recommended Wicked Diving, this group runs very enjoyable kayak trips with local guides in Komodo National Park. Other adventures include Wae Rebo trekking and trips to Wicked's turtle conservation camp on a south Flores beach. The office is across from the airport.
Flores Komodo ExpeditionADVENTURE TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-42127; www.floreskomodoexpedition.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 2-day Wae Rebo tours for 2 people 1,800,000Rp; h10am-7pm)
Organises all manner of trips around Flores. Themes include bird-watching, ancient villages, jungle-trekking, Komodo National Park and much more, and can be customised to suit. Also rents motorbikes for 90,000Rp per day.
SEVEN DAYS ON FLORES
You can take as long as you like exploring Flores, but a common trip for the visa-expiry-date-conscious using a hired car and driver goes like this:
Three days in Labuanbajo and the surrounding Komodo National Park and waters
One day driving to the hill town of Bajawa with time to explore the surrounding Ngada villages
One day driving to the sweet mountain village of Moni via the Ngada village of Bena and the steamy port town of Ende
One day exploring the area around Moni, including Kelimutu National Park
One day driving to Maumere, with a stop at the beach in Paga
You can fly out of Maumere and you can do this trip in either direction, although it’s easiest to find a driver you’ll like in Labuanbajo. Add a couple of extra days to the schedule above if you’re sticking to buses.
4Sleeping
It seems every week there is a new place to stay in Labuanbajo. Still, during peak season in July and August book ahead lest you be one of the sad groups trooping along the streets looking for a room while the already accommodated look down on you from cafes with ill-disguised pity.
If you can swing it, consider one of the superb resorts on the nearby islands.
Central Area
oBajo Sunset HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3799 3814; bajosunset.wordpress.com; Jl Reklamasi Pantai; dm/r from 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)
A great new addition to the Bajo scene, this newly built guesthouse sits on reclaimed land on the waterfront. There is a modest cafe and a large open-air common area with great views out to sea. Accommodation is in a 14-bed dorm and four-bed rooms. Smaller private rooms are planned.
Palulu Garden HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 3658 4279; palulugarden.wordpress.com; off Jl Ande Bole; r economy/budget/air-con from 140,000/200,000/350,000Rp; a)
Long-time local guide Kornelis Gega and his family run this four-room homestay just a short walk above the centre. The cheapest room shares a bathroom, while the top room has air-con. It's pure Flores throughout, and utterly spic and span. Kornelis can help with your trip planning and arrange transport etc.
Bajo Beach HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41008; Jl Soekarno Hatta; r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)
A fine cheapie in the city centre with 16 basic but spacious tiled older rooms that are clean and well tended. Each has a private seating area out front. You'll get the same room either way, but pay a bit more for air-con.
Golo HilltopBUNGALOW$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41337; www.golohilltop.com; Jl Binongko; r 450,000-525,000Rp; aWs)
The pool just makes this 10-room nest even sweeter. Expect modern, super-clean concrete bungalows in a hilltop garden setting with magnificent views of Teluk Labuanbajo (but not of the harbour). Deluxe rooms are on the top ridge; standard rooms are fan-cooled. You must reserve ahead.
Bagus BagusGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 386 0084; [email protected]; off Jl Binongko; r from 250,000Rp)S
Accessed from the walkway that leads to Paradise Bar, these fine, spacious, tiled rooms have wooden beds, mosquito nets, high woven-bamboo and beamed ceilings, open-air baths, and exquisite sunset views from the common porch. The owner is a major promoter of recycling.
Bayview Gardens HotelINN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41549; www.bayview-gardens.com; Jl Ande Bole; r from 500,000Rp; aW)
A lovely nine-room inn notched onto the hillside above town with epic sunset and harbour views, and a lovely grey-water-fed garden with over 450 plant species. Breakfast is served in your room, which isn't fancy but is sweet with an outdoor living room, separate indoor bedroom and huge bathroom. Wi-fi is only in the lobby; reserve in advance.
Green Hill HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41289; www.greenhillboutiquehotel.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; r from 500,000Rp; aW)
The communal terrace bar with its view of the town, bay and sunsets makes this an excellent choice. The 11 rooms are a brief climb from the very centre of town and range from scruffy and older to sprightly and newer. Breakfasts are excellent.
Villa Seirama AlamHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 5377 9942; www.villaseiramaalam.com; off Jl Ande Bole; villas from US$165; aW)
Enjoy the home you'd live in if you called Bajo home. This two-storey, three-bedroom house is set on lush grounds and has brilliant views across the harbour and islands. Everything is rather stylish and made of wood. Ask about cheaper rates if you only rent part of the villa.
By the Beach
This crescent of sand south of the centre may be the future of Labuanbajo tourism. The massive Jayakarta Hotel opened its 200-room resort in 2011, followed by the slightly shambolic Laprima, signalling the coming dawn of mass tourism in Labuanbajo.
Puri Sari HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%0385-244 3710; www.purisarihotel.com; Jl Pantai Pede; r from 850,000Rp; aWs)
A two-storey ranch-style hotel with a boutique feel. There's a shady garden, a beachside pool, and warm and friendly management. The 21 rooms are lovely with queen-sized wooden beds, bowl sinks and a wide private terrace. It offers free shuttles to and from the airport, and a daily shuttle to town.
Island Hotels
Although close to Labuanbajo, the surrounding island hotels and resorts feel like a world apart. All offer some form of boat transfer to/from town – in an hour or less you can escape to your own tropical paradise. And most have their own excellent dive operations (Kanawa is a notable exception).
oScuba Junkie Komodo Beach ResortDIVE RESORT$$
(%0812 3601 8523; www.scubajunkiekomodo.com; Warloka Flores; 3-night all-inclusive packages dm/s/d from US$390/550/900)
This fantastically run new dive resort is on an isolated bay about 45 minutes south of Bajo by boat. Rinca Island is nearby as are oodles of fine dive sites, which is good as staying here is all about unde
rwater adventures. On land, accommodation is in fine four-bed dorms or breezy beach bungalows. Food and drink are excellent. Diving is included in package prices.
Kanawa Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
(%0385-41252, 0813 3823 3312; kanawaislandresort.com; Pulau Kanawa; bungalows s/d from 550,000/700,000Rp)
There's no denying this beach hideaway its loveliness. There's an elegant strip of white sand, a turquoise lagoon with magnificent snorkelling, endless island views and a long crooked jetty that is the tropical romantic ideal. However, conditions can be shambolic and getting close to nature can mean bedding down with bugs.
If you're an intrepid backpacker you might love the adventure; if you can't be separated from your roll-aboard luggage, you may flee screaming.
oAngel Island ResortRESORT$$$
(%0385-41443; www.angelisleflores.com; Pulau Bidadari; d per person from €145; aW)
Set on its own 15-hectare island and linked to Labuanbajo by private boat, this resort has 10 sweet villas scattered about the trees behind one of three white-sand beaches. All meals are included; the food and service are casual and superb. You can easily while away your days here on the deserted beaches, or out snorkelling, diving and visiting the park. Minimum two-night stay.
Komodo Resort Diving ClubRESORT$$$
(%0385-42095; www.komodoresort.com; Pulau Sebayur; d per person all-inclusive €140; aW)
With 14 lumbung-style bungalows spread along the white-sand beach on Pulau Sebayur, this is one of our favourite island resorts. Bungalows have wood floors, queen beds, plush linens, 24-hour electricity, tented marble bathrooms with hot water and more. Rates include three excellent meals. There's a spa and a fun beach bar. Minimum three-night stay.
Seraya Hotel & ResortRESORT$$$
(%0821 4647 1362; www.serayahotel.com; Pulau Seraya; d per person from €105)
Get-away-from-it-all bliss exists on Pulau Seray. Stay in utterly casual, whitewashed, weathered wood-and-thatch-bungalows set on a white-sand beach, with offshore snorkelling and a rugged hilltop where you can wonder at spectacular sunsets for days on end. It's only 20 minutes by boat from Bajo. Minimum three-night stay.
5Eating & Drinking
Labuanbajo punches way above its weight in the food department. Browse the local bounty of fruits, vegetables, fish and other market fare at the daily market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h7am-4pm) at the north end of the waterfront.
oPasar MalamINDONESIAN$
(Night Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 20,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)
At sunset, grab a tarp-shaded table at Bajo's waterfront night market, as a dozen stalls come alive with all manner of Indo classics, fried delights and grilled seafood. Get cold beer from the market across the road.
Cafe in HitCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 5367 3884; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 40,000Rp; h7am-10pm; aW)
You may forget you're in Bajo, let alone Flores, at this semislick coffee house. Let the air-con cool you while you choose a drink from the blackboards, which could be in any upscale hipster cafe worldwide. Food is well-executed and includes sandwiches, baked goods, brownies and more. Breakfasts are heavy on whole grains and fruit.
Bajo BakeryBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat; a)
Expect good fresh breads, seductive banana muffins, tasty breakfasts, a few sandwiches and a quiche of the day. Good coffee.
Warung MamaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 3926 4747; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)
Set slightly above Bajo's main drag, this bamboo haven offers cheap and cheerful local fare to discerning budget eaters. There's no MSG, the veggies aren't cooked to death, the juices are fresh, and standards such as the rendang (beef coconut curry) are very well done.
oMade In ItalyITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41366; www.miirestaurants.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 50,000-90,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
A fun and stylish indoor–outdoor dining room known the island over for its fantastic pizza and pasta. In fact we’ll just say it: it’s some of the best pizza we’ve ever had anywhere – wafer thin and crunchy with perfectly delectable toppings. You’ll dig the rattan lighting, custom wood furnishings, ceiling fans and long drinks menu.
MediterranoITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-42218; www.mediterraneoinn.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 40,000-120,000Rp; h7am-midnight; W)
Enjoy pastas, pizzas and excellent seafood amid a beach-chic interior, which rambles beneath whitewashed rafters dangling with woven rattan lanterns. Grab an upcycled wooden table or sink into a beanbag, read or play board games for as long as you wish, or simply gaze out over the harbour.
Tree TopINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 30,000-100,000Rp; h9am-11pm; W)
This fun, triple-decker cafe offers a pub vibe and billiards table downstairs, and fine harbour and island views from the split-level upstairs dining rooms where it serves tasty, spicy Indonesian seafood. Many bar seats face the sunset.
LoungeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41962; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 35,000-80,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W)
This hill-climbing cafe is where you come for holy comfort food. Think: burgers that demand two hands, knife and fork calzoni, fish and chips, panini and salads. Staff mix cocktails from a bar stocked with premium liquids, and there are cushy built-in loungers. Live music features cover bands of varying talents. You can't beat the views from the top-level Sky Bar.
oParadise BarBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 3935 4854; off Jl Binongko; h11am-2am)
Set on a hilltop, Paradise satisfies all the requirements of a definitive tropical watering hole. There's ample deck space, a mesmerising sea view, a natural wood bar serving ice-cold beer, and live music. There's food too – mains run between 22,000Rp and 60,000Rp. This is as wild as it gets for Bajo nightlife – divers get up early. It's a 10-minute walk up hill from the centre.
8Information
Banks, ATMs and shops line Jl Soekarno Hatta.
PHKA Information BoothTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41005; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11am Fri)
PHKA administers the Komodo National Park, and provides information and permits for Komodo and Rinca islands.
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(www.florestourism.com; Jl Soekarno Pelabuhan; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
This excellent office has details on local activities, updated maps and books plus all the transport info – and tickets – you'll need. The porch has comfy chairs you can use while you plot out your visit.
Varanus TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41709; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h8am-6pm)
Full service travel agent; can book airline and bus tickets.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Labuanbajo's Komodo Airport (LBJ; GOOGLE MAP ) has a huge new airport terminal as well as a newly lengthened runway, which gives some idea of the expected tourism growth.
Garuda, Transnusa and Wings Air serve the airport and have counters in the terminal. There are several daily flights to/from Bali but these are booked solid at busy times. Don't just expect to turn up and go. Garuda also flies to Kupang five times weekly.
Boat
The ASDP ferry from Labuanbajo to Sape (60,000Rp, six to seven hours) has a morning run and often another in the afternoon. Confirm all times carefully. Buy your tickets the day of departure at the ferry port office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h7am-5pm).
Agents for the boats running between Labuanbajo and Lombok line Jl Soekarno Hatta.
Pelni AgentBOAT
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41106; off Jl Mutiara; hhours vary)
Easily missed on a side street, this agency run by Varanus Travel is the place to get tickets for long-distance boat travel. Schedules posted in the windows outline twice-mont
hly services, which include Makassar and the east coast of Sulawesi as well as Bima, Lembar and Benoa (Bali).
Bus
With no bus terminal in Labuanbajo, most people book their tickets through a hotel or agency. If you get an advance ticket, the bus will pick you up from your hotel. All buses run via Ruteng, so no matter where you're headed just take the first available east-bound bus.
Ticket sellers for long-distance buses to Lombok and Bali work the ferry port office. The fares include all ferries (three to Bali!) and air-con buses in between.
BUSES FROM LABUANBAJO
Destination Type Price (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Denpasar (Bali) bus & ferry 500,000 38 1 daily
Bajawa bus 120,000 10 several daily
Mataram (Lombok) bus & ferry 350,000 24 1 daily
Ruteng bus 60,000 4 every 2hr, 6am-6pm
8Getting Around
The airport is 1.5km from the town. Many hotels and dive shops offer free rides into town. A private taxi to town costs a fixed flat rate of 70,000Rp.
In town itself you can walk to most places. An ojek costs 5000Rp to 10,000Rp. Bemos (3000Rp) do continual loops around the centre, following the one-way traffic.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 69
