Dutch-owned Lumba Lumba offers the best-quality accommodation in Gapang. Wood-decked cottages have tiled rooms, fans and Western toilets, while simpler rooms have shared bathrooms. Accommodation is mostly for divers, but they will happily rent out any spare rooms. A new restaurant is on the way.
Mama DonutINDONESIAN$
Mama Donut has been a local institution for a couple of decades, walking the sand selling delicious vegetable samosas, doughnuts and fried bananas to divers. On her days off, Daughter Donut takes over.
Iboih
More spread out than Gapang, Iboih (ee-boh) follows a rocky headland with a string of simple bungalows along a forested footpath. A small path leads through a stone gateway past the village well, and up and over a small hill to the bungalow strip. The village itself is conservative and traditional, so no swimwear beyond the bungalow strip.
1Sights & Activities
Rubiah Tirta DiversDIVING
(%0652-332 4555; www.rubiahdivers.com; discover dive/Open Water Diver course €40/270)
Local-run Rubiah Tirta Divers is the oldest dive operation on the island and gets consistently good feedback from travellers.
Sea GardenDIVING
Opposite Iboih, 100m offshore, is Pulau Rubiah, a densely forested island surrounded by spectacular coral reefs known as the Sea Garden. It is a favourite snorkelling and diving spot. The coral has been destroyed in places but there is still plenty to see, including turtles, manta ray, lionfish, tigerfish and occasional sharks.
If you are a strong swimmer it is possible to make your own way there. Beware of strong currents, especially at the southern tip of the island.
4Sleeping & Eating
Iboih, with its simple palm-thatch bungalows, many built on stilts and overlooking crystal-clear water, is Pulau Weh’s backpacker hang out par excellence. There’s a handful of places to stay with little differentiating them. If you stay for several days you can normally negotiate a discount on the daily rates.
Just off the main road are a few shops selling sundries, Indonesian lunches and coffee in front of a small beach.
Yulia’sHUT$
(%0821 6856 4383; r with/without bathroom 280,000/120,000Rp; W)
A 500m trudge past the rest of the guesthouses rewards you with cheerful green huts, some excellent front-door snorkelling and a pink restaurant serving a mix of Indonesian and Western dishes.
OlalaHUT$
(%0852 6060 7311; r 70,000-150,000Rp; W)
Offering cheap and cheerful huts on stilts, Olala caters both to shoestringers (basic digs with shared bathrooms) and splurgers who want their own bathroom and fan. Its restaurant (open to all) is a popular traveller hang out and receives an equal amount of praise.
Oong’s BungalowsHUT$
(%0813 6070 0150; r 80,000-160,000Rp)
Good value rooms although the tin roof heats things up. Cheaper options share bathrooms. The on-site restaurant, Norma’s, serves seafood and beer amid diving chat.
Iboih InnBUNGALOW$$
(%0812 6904 8397; www.iboihinn.com; r incl breakfast 250,000-550,000Rp; aW)
The top-dog huts at Iboih’s only upmarket option come with hot-water showers, air-con and fab sea views, though they are somewhat regimental and grey. The further the huts are from the seafront, the lower the price and the quality, until you get to simple wooden shacks with thin partitioning walls that make you feel as if you’re in bed with your neighbours.
Dee Dee’s KitchenINTERNATIONAL$
(mains 25,000-40,000Rp; h8am-9pm; Wv)
On the same strip of beach as Rubiah Divers, Dee Dee cooks up an eclectic selection of dishes, from the excellent homemade chapati with guacamole and tofu burgers with french fries to chicken cooked in coconut milk. Easily Iboih’s most imaginative dining venue.
Long Beach
4Sleeping & Eating
Stone ParkBUNGALOW$
(%0852 6258 1111, 0652-3324688; Long Beach; r 200,000Rp; aW)
Overlooking a private lagoon with excellent snorkelling, these two rustic cabins are run by a friendly British-Indonesian couple, Katie and Ali. Cabins are spacious, fan-cooled and equipped with mosquito nets; they also have attached kitchens if you don’t feel like dining out. Located at the southern end of Long Beach.
oBixio CafeITALIAN$$
(meals around 120,000Rp; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon)
Who would have thought Sumatra’s best Italian food is hiding in a remote corner of Pulau Weh! Sit by the lapping waves and dig into Luca and Eva’s wonderful authentic and freshly made gnocchi and pasta with fresh and imaginative sauces – but leave room for the divine tiramisu. There are three appealing bungalows (150,000Rp) for rent if you wish to linger longer.
Aceh’s West Coast
Rounding the northwestern tip of Sumatra’s finger of land is a string of little villages and endless beaches backed by densely forested hills. Most of the houses along the coast are identical in design, having been rebuilt after the tsunami. For the moment, the attractive west coast attracts the more intrepid travellers heading overland between Singkil and Banda Aceh, as well as surfers and kitesurfers in search of wind and waves.
Lhok Nga & Lampu’uk
%0656
Comprehensively rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami, the coastal weekend spots in Lampu’uk are beginning to attract more surfers and kitesurfers as the word spreads. Surfing season is from October to April, while the rest of the year brings favourable kiting winds. Lhok Nga has decent waves too, and it’s becoming particularly popular with kitesurfers.
Take labi labi number 04 (30,000Rp, 20 minutes) from the angkot terminal in Banda Aceh for both Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk. A becak costs 80,000Rp to 100,000Rp.
Joel’s BungalowsBUNGALOW$
(%0813 7528 7765; Lampu’uk; r 150,000-300,000Rp)
Joel’s Bungalows is the area’s legendary surfer hangout. Its huts have been built into and around the cliff face and overlook a drop-dead-gorgeous beach (though the waves there are not suitable for surfing and can be dangerous for swimming). Rooms come in an array of sizes and styles and its on-site restaurant is known far and wide as the place to come for a wood-fire pizza.
Joel’s Bungalows 2 (%0813 7528 7765; r 150,000-300,000Rp), further south along the main beach at Lampu’uk, is ideal for kitesurfers due to its location.
Aceh KitecampSURF CAMP$$
(%0812 6942 7770; www.aceh-kitecamp.com; Lhok Nga; s 150,000Rp, d 200,000-500,000Rp; aW)
Aceh Kitecamp in Lhok Nga is the best place to learn to kitesurf in Sumatra. This clutch of comfortable bungalows comes with its own kiting school (one hour €60, full course €310). In the downtime, you can have a go at paddle boarding (150,000Rp for half a day).
Eddie’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
(%0813 7588 3445, 0811 688 682; [email protected]; Lhok Nga; r 70,000-120,000; a)
Run by a local surfer, Eddie’s gets consistently good feedback from the surfing crowd both for its laid-back vibe and its comfy rooms (the cheaper ones share facilities).
Pulau Simeulue
%0650 / Pop 85,000
The isolated island of Simeulue, about 150km west of Tapaktuan, is a rocky volcanic outcrop blanketed in rainforest and fringed with clove and coconut plantations. An increasing number of surfers make it out here (although wave quality is generally not considered to be as high as on some other offshore Sumatran islands), but nonsurfing travellers are a rare breed indeed. This is a pity because the island holds decent potential for genuine, off-the-beaten-track adventure, and is relatively easy to get around: the ring road around the island is mostly accessible by local minibuses.
You’ll find simple losmen (50,000Rp to 165,000Rp) in Sinabang and Sibigo, or if you have a tent, you can camp on the beach. A half-dozen or so surf camps take advantage of the as yet uncrowded waves. Surf Camp Sumatra (www.surfcampsumatra.com; bungalow US$75-85; Ws) is a small, new camp that lodges up to eight guests, in a quiet bay on the west coast of Simeulue. You sleep in a simple, fan-cooled bungalow right in front of the island’
s most consistent break, Dylan’s Right. Meals and airport transfers are included.
Bring lots of cash as the island’s ATMs are not to be depended on.
Susi Air (%061-785 2169; www.susiair.com) has two flights daily from Medan. A ferry from Simelue’s port town of Sinabang to Singkil (75,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 12 hours) runs on Wednesday and Saturday at 5pm.
Singkil
%0658 / Pop 17,000
Singkil is a remote, sleepy port town with welcoming locals at the mouth of Sungai Alas. It’s the departure point for island adventures in the Banyaks, Pulau Nias and Pulau Simelue, but it’s worth lingering here for a day or two to explore the swampy surroundings – which are home to crocodiles, wild orangutans and more.
Unusually for Indonesia, Singkil is very spread out and has no real centre.
2Activities
Swamp TourBOAT TOUR
(per person 700,000Rp)
A rewarding day trip from Singkil involves taking a single-engine canoe up the Gedang River, past two friendly waterfront villages and deeper into the great morass in search of wild orangutans and monkeys. Start out as early as possible to maximise your chances of seeing riverside wildlife. Book via Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel.
The riverside villages are worth a visit, to meet the friendly locals and their inquisitive kids. Note the contrast between the enormous satellite TV dishes and the bathroom shacks right on the river. Beyond the villages, the river gives way to narrow waterways, lined with tall swamp plants and with the odd orangutan nest near the water.
4Sleeping & Eating
oSapo Belen LodgeLODGE$
(%0813 6196 0997; d 150,000Rp)
Sapo Belen Lodge is the nicest crash pad for travellers in town, just off the main street. It consists of characterful, antique-filled rooms with mosquito nets and local-style bathrooms; the largest room has a four-poster bed and a Western toilet. The friendly proprietor answers text messages with the help from English-speaking guides, including Mr Darmawan, his nephew.
Hotel Dina AmaliaGUESTHOUSE$
(%0821 6164 2013; [email protected]; Jl Bahari; r 150,000-270,000Rp; a)
The plusher rooms at this basic hotel on the main street have air-con. The manager speaks a little English. It’s not far from Baroka warung.
BarokaINDONESIAN$
(mains 20,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Cheap as chips and friendly to boot, this simple warung on the main street lets you load up on gargantuan portions of rice with chicken and fish sambal and more.
8Information
There’s a single BRI Bank with an ATM that only accepts Mastercard (and not all foreign cards), so bring plenty of cash.
Banyak Island TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
(%0813 7721 9667, 0813 6017 0808; [email protected])
Your first point of contact in Singkil should be Mr Darmawan at Banyak Island Travel, who can organise any and all forms of onward transport, including speed boats to the Banyaks, minibuses and private cars to almost anywhere, and local tours. In fact, he deserves the Stranded Traveller Guardian Angel Award for helping more than a few travellers in distress!
Sumatra EcotourismTOURIST INFORMATION
(www.sumatraecotourism.com)
A very useful website with regards to Singkil, the Banyaks and other destinations in North Sumatra and Aceh. Rega maintains the Sumatra Ecotourism website and works in partnership with Mr Darmawan.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Susi Air (www.susiair.com) has twice-weekly flights on 12-seater planes between Singkil and Medan. Schedules are very changeable, so check in advance.
Boat
From the ferry port off the main street, overnight ferries depart on Thursday and Sunday for Gunung Sitoli (75,000Rp, six hours) on Pulau Nias at 11pm. Ferries also head to Sinabang on Pulau Simeulue (75,000Rp to 150,000Rp, 12 hours) on the same days at 5pm. Get to the port an hour before departure to secure a seat.
Local boats to Pulau Balai in the Banyaks depart from the jetty at the end of the main street.
Bus & Car
There are daily minibuses from Singkil to various destinations. You can also charter a car to any destination; this is particularly worthwhile if you’re heading for Tuk Tuk on Danau Toba (1,400,000Rp to 1,600,000, seven hours) since getting there by public transport requires three bus changes and takes at least 12 hours. Private cars to Medan cost around 800,000Rp.
BUSES FROM SINGKIL
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Medan 120,000 9-10 several daily
Banda Aceh 230,000 15 daily at 3pm
Ketambe 180,000 10 daily at 7pm
Sibolga 120,000 7-8 daily at 8am
Banyak Islands
Pop 5000
If you’ve ever dreamt about having a tropical island entirely to yourself, complete with palm trees, powdery white beaches and crystal-clear waters, the Banyak Islands are a great place to fulfil your Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A cluster of 99 mostly uninhabited islands, the Banyak (Many) Islands are situated about 30km west of Singkil. Remote they might be, but they are now very much on the radar of surfers and growing in popularity with paradise-seeking travellers. As well as having arguably the finest beaches in Sumatra and a handful of quality surf spots, the Banyaks feature Sumatra’s best snorkelling with beautiful underwater forests of colourful coral (at least where there has been no dynamite fishing in the past). Maybe one day the dive operators will move in…
Only two of the islands are properly inhabited. The main town on the island of Pulau Balai is the main entry point to the islands. Low-key Haloban on Pulau Tuangku is the other main village.
1Sights
Pulau AsokISLAND
A crescent-shaped, uninhabited island with pristine beaches on either side as well as excellent snorkelling.
Pulau LamanISLAND
There’s fantastic snorkelling between Pulau Laman and Pulau Laureh, with some remarkable growths of vivid blue coral.
Pulau PalambakISLAND
Rather out of the way, this medium-sized island is covered in coconut trees, has a couple of jungle paths you can walk and a gorgeous stretch of beach. The snorkelling is not great, though, since the coral has been largely destroyed by dynamite fishing.
Pulau BalaiISLAND
One of two inhabited islands, connected to the mainland by frequent public boats. No attractions of its own, but useful as a transfer point.
Pulau BangkaruISLAND
The second-largest of the Banyaks is home to a turtle conservation project, so visits are strictly controlled and you’re only allowed on the island with a certified guide. The conservation project is up in the air with the demise of the previous management body, so check what’s happening with Rega from Sumatra Ecotourism.
There are pristine beaches, excellent surfing off the south coast and plenty of scope for jungle trekking. Three day, two night stays for two people cost 2,500,000Rp.
Pulau TuangkuISLAND
Covered in dense jungle, Pulau Tuangku is the largest of the Banyaks. Surfers head to Ujung Lolok, the headland at the south of the island, complete with several world-class breaks. In the northern part of the island is Haloban, a friendly village; Suka Makmur, a Christian village, is further south. With a guide it’s possible to summit Gunung Tiusa (313m) for an epic view of the surrounding islands (five hours return) and visit a cave full of stalagmites.
Pulau TailandaISLAND
The small island of Palau Tailana is renowned for reefs that are waves of colour.
Pulau SikandangISLAND
This large-ish island, with pristine beaches, takes a couple of hours to walk around. Snorkelling is possible but there’s a steep dropoff near the shore off the main beach.
Pulau Ragu-RaguISLAND
Offers some excellent snorkelling offshore. Dugongs are sometimes sighted in the mornings off the island’s north shore.
Pulau LambodongISLAND
A small island with a coconut collector’s shack hiding in the
palm thicket. The white-sand beach is strewn with storm-brought flotsam and jetsam.
2Activities
KayakingKAYAKING
(%0852 7771 1108, 0821 6199 7974; kayak hire per day 150,000Rp)
Kayaking the calm, crystal-clear waters between dozens of idyllic islands is a great way to explore the Banyaks. With Rega and Anhar, you can arrange anything from beginner routes to multiday challenges for experienced kayakers for around 350,000Rp per person per day.
Snorkelling
The reefs in the Banyaks teem with colourful fish and corals and there are some fabulous snorkelling possibilities off almost any island. The visibility is excellent and most lodgings rent snorkelling masks.
Surfing
Many visitors to the Banyaks are surfers and there are some world-class surf spots here off Pulau Tuangku and Pulau Bangkaru as well as some more average waves. However, the waves can get rather crowded, particularly around Ujung Lolok, with up to 30 surfers regularly fighting over one peak.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 102
