oRajawali HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-31905; [email protected]; Jl Ahmad Yani 152; r 80,000Rp)
The eight rooms at this friendly, central homestay are basic and come with Indonesian bathrooms. The irrepressible Ulrich is the best source of local (and regional) knowledge in town, with advice on detailed walks and motorcycle rides around Bukittingi and excellent GPS maps. The roof terrace is perfect for sunset beers as you watch the twilight squadrons of bats flying past.
Orchid HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-32634; [email protected]; Jl Teuku Umar 11; r 120,000-150,000Rp; W)
This popular backpacker inn is ground zero for arranging tours and activities with Roni’s Tour & Travel, which is highly praised by travellers. The rooms here could do with sprucing up though.
oTreeli HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-625350; [email protected]; Jl Kesehatan 36A; s/d/tr 315,000/500,000/780,000Rp; aW)
An excellent new addition to the rather tired midrange bunch, Treeli gets a lot of things right. Rooms are compact and quiet, with funky wallpaper, modern bathrooms and all sorts of mod cons. An excellent breakfast is served on the breezy roof terrace and the restaurant specialises in Chinese-style seafood dishes.
Hotel Grand KartiniHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-33337; [email protected]; Jl Teuku Umar 5; r 375,000Rp; aW)
White is the predominant colour at this smart, super-central hotel. Rooms are compact yet comfortable, breakfast is good and fans can be provided if requested. Staff vary between helpful and utterly disinterested. Bring earplugs; there’s a mosque next door. There’s no lift.
Grand Rocky HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-627 000; www.rockyhotelsgroup.com; Jl Yos Sudarso; r incl breakfast 900,000-1,000,000Rp; aWs)
Adding a touch of Vegas glamour to Bukittinggi’s top-end range, Grand Rocky stands sentinel above town, its lobby bustling with bow-tied staff. Rooms are spacious and modern, views stretch to the Sianok Canyon, and it’s just a short downhill stroll to the brightish lights of central Bukittinggi. Check online for good discounts if you’re keen for a mini-splurge.
HillsBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-35000; www.thehillshotel.com; Jl Laras Dutuk Bandaro; r 955,000-1,205,000Rp; aWs)
Commanding the heights like a Moorish citadel, Hills is usually full of VIPs and their security squads. Sports lovers can get active here with swimming, volleyball, basketball or table tennis, while the less inclined should drop by the hotel’s Anai Bar for great views and relatively pricey drinks. Breakfast lets the side down, given the room price.
5Eating & Drinking
Bukittinggi has long been the one place in Sumatra where weary road bums can give their poor chilli-nuked organs a chance to recover with lashings of lovingly bland Western food.
In the evenings, sate stalls spring up on the western side of the square, while the tents lining Jl Ahmad Yani cook up mie and nasi goreng (fried rice), murtabak mesir (filled pancake) and roti cane (flat bread).
Waroeng Jalal Spesifik SambalINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kesehatan; mains 6000-20,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; Wv)
Fans of spicy dishes will love this shady garden warung specialising mostly in sambal dishes. Squid, prawns, chicken, tofu, tempeh and aubergine are all cooked in a rich, fiery chilli sauce, with kangkung (water spinach) providing a mild accompaniment. The beer may well be Bukittinggi’s coldest. Get here early lest they run out of the most popular dishes.
Simpang RayaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Minangkabau; meals around 50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
The best place in town to sample the fabled Padang cuisine – spicy, flavourful dishes, with a particularly savoury rendang (beef coconut curry). Just ask for the assortment of what’s on offer.
Ramadan MarketMARKET$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cinduo Mato; dishes from 10,000Rp; h8am-6pm)
During the month of Ramadan, this car park turns into a whirlwind of culinary activity as dozens of stalls press sugar-cane juice, cook up rendang, concoct elaborate desserts and deep-fry all sorts of artery-clogging goodies. Locals shop here during the day in preparation for the breaking of the fast and it’s a terrific place to try local dishes.
Bedudal CafeCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; W)
Make yourself comfortable amid the wooden carvings and posters of the Doors and order from an extensive menu of pizza, calzone, pasta, soups and whole roast chicken (250,000Rp, order in advance). The waiters break out the bongos and guitars for occasional jam sessions and it can get full.
De Kock CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Teuku Umar 18; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; W)
Under the same management as Bedudal Cafe, and with exactly the same menu, De Kock (cannon, in case you’re wondering) serves a delicious mixture of Western and Indonesian dishes in arty, stone-walled surroundings. Order a roast chicken for you and your ravenous friends here.
Turret CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani 140-142; mains 25,000-40,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; W)
A smattering of Western dishes with the odd inclusion of mie goreng (fried noodles) and green curry, cold beer, and the best guacamole in town. Prepare for a leisurely meal.
NelayanSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Benteng; mains 40,000-60,000Rp; h6pm-11pm)
Slightly more low key than its sister establishment in Padang (less neon!), Nelayan really delivers when it comes to sweet-and-sour squid, black pepper crab and other seafood delights. Portions are big enough to feed a legion. No prices on the menu, so ask before you order.
Rimbun Espresso & Brew BarCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; coffee from 25,000Rp; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat)
The home of Bukittinggi’s best coffee, with frappes, cappuccinos, frappuccinos and more, made with local beans. Latte art has finally made it to Bukittinggi and in the evenings this spot turns into a lively watering hole.
3Entertainment
Gedung Medan Nan BalinduangDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Lenggogeni; tickets 50,000Rp; h8.30pm)
Medan Nan Balinduang presents Minangkabau dance performances. Check with your lodgings for the latest schedule.
7Shopping
Jl Minangkabau is good for shopping for woven bags and batik shirts, while upper Jl Ahmad Yani has traditional crafts and antiques.
Beautiful red and gold Minangkabau embroidery can be found in the pasar.
Makmur ArtsARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-22208; Jl Ahmad Yani 10; h10am-8pm)
An extensive collection of antiques, including Minangkabau brass salapah panjang (long boxes) used for storing lime and tobacco, silver salapah padusi for betel nut and lime, brass gongs, kerises (ceremonial daggers), 100-year-old wooden masks and heavy coconut-wood-and-brass necklaces formerly worn by local warriors.
8Information
Banks and ATMs are scattered along Jl Ahmad Yani and Jl A Karim. Travel agencies line Jl Ahmad Yani for flight and bus bookings.
BNI BankATM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl A Karim)
Has ATM allowing withdrawals of up to 2,000,000Rp.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sudirman; internet access per hr 6000Rp; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri)
South of town near the bus terminal.
Rumah Sakit Sayang BariHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Dr Rivai)
This hospital is just west of central Bukittinggi.
8Getting There & Away
The chaos of the main bus terminal, Aur Kuning, 3km south of town, is easily reached by angkot (3000Rp); ask for ‘terminal.’ Heading to central Bukittinggi on arrival ask for ‘Kampung China.’
The main bus terminal is useful for some bus departures but not all. Minibuses to Sibolga depart from offices
on Jl Veteran as do minibuses to Parapat.
Randy Tours & Travel (%0813 7528 7345, 0812 6764 394; Jl Veteran 19) sells tickets for a daily 7pm service; scheduled door-to-door transfers to Padang are more convenient than waiting for a bus at the terminal. Most lodgings can point you in the right direction and assist with booking passage.
The best way to get to Dumai – for ferries to Melaka and Kuala Lupmpur in Malaysia – is with BWE Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752 625 140, 0752 625 139; Jl Pemuda 81). Minibuses leave Bukittinggi nightly at 8pm, and departures are timed to link with the ferry from Dumai to Melaka. Prebooking is required. BWE can also book the ferry for you; you’ll need to drop in the day before departure with your passport.
BUSES FROM BUKITTINGGI
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Bengkulu 125,000-150,000 18 2-3 daily
Danau Maninjau 17,000 1½ frequent
Dumai 160,000 10 7pm daily
Medan 160,000-200,000 20 several daily
Padang 25,000-30,000 3-4 frequent
Parapat (for Danau Toba) 180,000-200,000 16 several daily
Pekanbaru 130,000 7 6 daily
Sibolga (for Pulau Nias) 110,000-150,000 12 several daily
8Getting Around
Angkot around town cost 3000Rp. Bendi start from 20,000Rp; bargain hard. An ojek from the bus terminal to the hotels costs 15,000Rp and a taxi costs 30,000Rp. Transfers to Padang airport can be arranged from any travel agent for around 55,000Rp. A private taxi to Padang airport is around 300,000Rp.
For motorbike rental, visit Glory Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; Tilal Bookshop, Jl Ahmad Yani; per day 60,000Rp) or enquire at your lodgings.
Around Bukittinggi
While Bukittinggi is an interesting market town, visitors come to explore the traditional architecture and craft of the Minangkabau countryside, to bag a volcano or two, or to hunt for the world’s largest and smelliest flowers.
Handicraft Villages
oSumatera LoomARTS CENTRE
(%0823 8936 8875, 0752-783 4253; www.songketminang.com; h8-11am & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)
Handicraft and textile fans should not miss Sumatera Loom near Simpang Bukit Batabuah 7km southeast of Bukittinggi. Dedicated to revitalising the traditional Minangkabau art of songket (silver or gold-threaded cloth) weaving, the studio has trained young weavers (aged 18 to 28) in the art of producing Sumatra’s finest. Replicas of heritage songkets based on antique cloths in museums and contemporary updates are both woven here. From the Aur Kuning bus terminal, catch a yellow opelet to Batu Taba (3500Rp), getting off at the SMKN1 (high school). Phone ahead.
This project was begun in 2005 by a Swiss architect who’d spent years studying songkets. The gold and silver thread used is the finest possible ordered from India rather than Singapore. You can visit the studio and watch weavers at work and purchase these extremely high-quality weavings.
Koto GadangVILLAGE
Silversmiths occupy several old Dutch houses of Koto Gadang, 5km from Bukittinggi (an angkot costs 3000Rp). Alternatively, it’s an hour’s walk from Taman Panorama. Silver Work (Jln Sawahan 1) by Weli Syar Mak Wan is particularly worth seeking out for his intricate, fine models of traditional houses, delicate rings and more.
Pandai SikatVILLAGE
Pandai Sikat (Clever Craftsmen) is famous for songket weaving and carving building decorations out of wood. The village is 13km south of Bukittinggi. Take an angkot (5000Rp) from Aur Kuning.
South of Bukittinggi
The rich volcanic soil of the hilly countryside around Bukittinggi oozes fertility. Stop by the roadside and you can spot cinnamon, betel nut, avocado, coffee, mango and papaya trees. Rice, tapioca and potatoes grow in terraces, while bamboo waterwheels feed irrigation ditches and drive wooden grinding mills. You may see a wedding parade. The bride and groom, dressed in full traditional regalia, are accompanied by musicians, family members and half the village. The Minangkabau tribal flags (red, black and yellow) typically mark the site of the festivities.
The sights in this area can be combined into a scenic day tour, either by renting a motorbike, taking a motorbike tour (300,000Rp) or hiring a car and driver (600,000Rp).
Rumah Gadang PagaruyungPALACE
(King’s Palace)
In the village of Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, the heartland of the red Tanah Datar clan of Minangkabau, Rumah Gadang Pagaruyung is a scaled-down replica of the former home of the rulers of the ancient Minangkabau kingdom of Payaruyung. A fire razed it to the ground in 2007, but it has been reconstructed. Batu Sangkar can be reached via public bus (22,000Rp, 1½ hours) from Bukittinggi, where you can continue an by ojek (8,000Rp) to Silinduang Bulan.
Istano Silinduang BulanPALACE
(Queen’s Palace; admission 5000Rp)
Near the King’s Palace in Silinduang Bulan, 5km north of Batu Sangkar, Istano Silinduang Bulan was damaged by lightning in 2011, but has been rebuilt since. This building is still used for important clan meetings.
Conservatorium of Traditional MusicARTS CENTRE
(STSI, ASKI; Jl Bundo Kanduang 35; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri)
Ethno-musicologists make the pilgrimage to the town of Padangpanjang, 19km south of Bukittinggi, to see the Conservatorium of Traditional Music. Minangkabau dance and music are preserved and performed here. Regular buses run between Bukittinggi and Padangpanjang (12,000Rp).
BelimbingVILLAGE
(entry by donation)
Belimbing, a village southeast of Batu Sangkar, is one of the largest surviving collections of traditional architecture in the highlands. Many of the homes are 300 years old and in various states of decay. Most owners have built modern homes nearby and use the relics for ceremonial purposes.
MINANGKABAU WOMEN RULE
Though Minangkabau society is Islamic, it’s still matrilineal. According to Minangkabau adat (traditional laws and regulations), property and wealth are passed down through the female line. Every Minangkabau belongs to his or her mother’s clan. At the basic level of the clan is the sapariouk, those matri-related kin, who eat together. These include the mother, the grandchildren and the son-in-law. The name comes from the word periouk (rice pot). The eldest living female is the matriarch. The most important male member of the household is the mother’s eldest brother, who replaces the father in being responsible for the children’s education, upbringing and marriage prospects. But consensus is at the core of the Minangkabau ruling philosophy and the division of power between the sexes is regarded as complementary – like the skin and the nail act together to form the fingertip, according to a local expression.
Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve & Around
Batang Palupuh Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
The Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve, 16km north of Bukittinggi, is home to many orchid species, as well as the massive Rafflesia arnoldii and Amorphophallus titanium, the largest flowers on the planet – the latter endemic to Sumatra. The rafflesia blooms throughout the year, if briefly, whereas you have to be incredibly lucky to catch the Amorphophallus in bloom at all. Both flowers reek like roadkill. Local buses to Palupuh cost 8000Rp and hiring a guide to lead you to the flowers is around 100,000Rp.
The blossom of the parasitic rafflesia measures nearly a metre across and can weigh up to 11kg, while the inflorescence of Amorphophallus can extend to over 3m in circumference.
House of Rafflesia Luwak CoffeeCOFFEE PLANTATION
(%0752-700 0749, 0813 7417 8971; www.rafflesialuwakcoffee.org; Desa Batang Palupuh)
At this plantation in Batang Palupuh, friendly owner Umul Khairi is happy to explain the process of harvesting, drying and roasting kopi luwak – a smooth, earthy brew produced from coffee beans ingested and excreted by civets (cal-like mammals). While the luwak coffee industry has come under fire for ‘farming’ civets to meet demand for the brew, the House of Rafflesia still operates in the traditional way, collecting wild civet ‘poo’ off the jungle floor. You can also taste (20,000Rp) and purchase (from 200,000Rp) the beans.
Book via the website or phone to confirm at least one day before you visit.
Minangkabau cooking classes (per person 350,000Rp) are also on offer. The multicourse menu includes beef rendang and chicken curry, and Umul will even run the course for solo travellers.
JoniGUIDE
(%0813 7436 0439)
Local, English-speaking, enthusiastic guide Joni is your best bet for finding the elusive rafflesia as he knows when everything is blooming and where. A morning departure from Bukittinggi is recommended to avoid the occasional influx of tour buses.
Gunung Merapi & Gunung Singgalang
Gunung MerapiVOLCANO
(admission 10,000Rp)
The smouldering summit of Gunung Merapi (2891m), Sumatra’s most active volcano, looms large over Bukittinggi around 16km to the east. If Merapi is benign, then visitors typically hike overnight to view sunrise from the summit from the village of Koto Baru; it’s a 12-hour round trip. You’ll need good walking boots, warm clothing, a torch, food and drink and a guide. Travel agencies in Bukittinggi do guided trips to Merapi for around US$40 per person (minimum two people).
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 107
