(%0730-621266; Jl Muhammad Nuh 80; d 100,000-240,000Rp)
There is a range of rather musty rooms to choose from and the manager can organise transport to the sites or guides to climb Gunung Dempo. The hotel is on the edge of town, about 2km from the bus terminal.
Lampung
At the very tip of this bow-shaped landmass is Sumatra’s southernmost province, which was not given provincial status by Jakarta until 1964. Although the Lampungese have had a long history as a distinct culture, Jakarta’s gravitational force has been altering Lampung’s independent streak – largely in the form of the transmigrasi policies, designed to off-load excess population and turn a profit in the wilds of Sumatra.
Outside the provincial capital of Bandarlampung, the province’s robust coffee plantations dominate the economy and the unclaimed forests, closely followed by timber, pepper, rubber and the ever-increasing territory of oil-palm plantations.
Today many Jakarta weekenders hop over to tour the Krakatau volcano or visit the elephants of Way Kambas National Park. The rugged western seaboard is ostensibly protected as the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.
History
Long before Jakarta became the helm of this island chain, there’s evidence that Lampung was part of the Palembang-based Sriwijayan empire until the 11th century, when the Jambi-based Malayu kingdom became the dominant regional power.
Megalithic remains at Pugungraharjo, on the plains to the east of Bandarlampung, are thought to date back more than 1000 years and point to a combination of Hindu and Buddhist influences. The site is believed to have been occupied until the 16th century.
Lampung has long been famous for its prized pepper crop, which attracted the West Javanese sultanate of Banten to the area at the beginning of the 16th century and the Dutch East India Company in the late 17th century.
The Dutch finally took control of Lampung in 1856 and launched the first of the transmigrasi schemes that sought to ease the chronic overcrowding in Java and Bali.
Bandarlampung
%0721 / Pop 873,000
Perched on the hills overlooking Teluk Lampung, Bandarlampung is the region’s largest city and its administrative capital. Most traveller facilties are in Tanjungkarang, including the train station and the bulk of the hotels. Krakatau and the Way Kambas National Park are the main spots to check out in the area when passing through en route to or from Java.
1Sights
Krakatau MonumentMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran)
The Krakatau monument is a lasting memorial to the force of the 1883 eruption and resulting tidal wave. Almost half of the 36,000 victims died in the 40m-high tidal wave that funnelled up Teluk Lampung and devastated Telukbetung. The huge steel maritime buoy that comprises the monument was washed out of Teluk Lampung and deposited on this hillside.
Lampung Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(Jl Teuku Umar; admission 4000Rp; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
This museum, 5km north of central Tanjungkarang, is a bit of a mixed bag, with everything from neolithic relics to stuffed animals. The few articles from the Sriwajayan empire era are worth a peek. To reach the museum, catch a grey angkot (3500Rp).
4Sleeping
oPOP! Hotel Tanjung KarangDESIGN HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-241742; www.pophotels.com; Jl W Monginsidi 56; r 440,000Rp; aiW)
POP! is as subtle as the giant exclamation mark decorating the side of the building. The decor is Google meets pop art, the staff are young and helpful and the strange bathroom cubicles feature powerful showers. Our only quibbles are that the windows don’t open and breakfast is a bit of a free-for-all.
Grand Citihub Hotel @KartiniBUSINESS HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-240420; www.citihubhotels.com; Jl Kartini 41; r from 275,000Rp; aW)
This brand new, central hotel is a welcome addition to Bandarlampung’s rather underwhelming selection. Rooms are on the snug side, but they scream ‘contemporary,’ with giant cityscapes splashed across the walls and powerful showers. Good coffee shop on-site, too.
Emersia Hotel & ResortRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-258258; www.emersiahotel.com; Jl W Monginsidi 70; r 695,000-945,000Rp, ste 1,800,000-3,150,000Rp; aWs)
If you’re completing your Sumatran odyssey and wish to wash the dust of the island off your feet, one of Bandarlampung’s most luxurious hotels may be just the place for it. Its elevated location means that the best rooms and suites feature sea views. There’s a spa for pampering and a decent restaurant to boot.
5Eating
The market stalls ( GOOGLE MAP ) around the Bambu Kuning Plaza ( GOOGLE MAP ) offer a wide range of snacks. Food stands punctuate Jl Raden Intan after dark.
Garuda RestaurantINDONESIAN$
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kartini 31; meals 40,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Come here for classic Padang dishes: choose from the likes of udang sambal (prawns in spicy sauce), wilted sweet potato leaves, fish curry and beef rendang. Staff don't speak much English but they’re super helpful if you just point at what you’d like.
Kopi OeyINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.kopioey.com; Jl W Monginsidi 56; meals 70,000-100,000Rp)
With its birdcage lights, outdoor terrace and Shanghai glamour posters, this offshoot of the Jakarta-based empire conjures an old-world vibe. The menu runs the gamut from fusion (spicy tuna spaghetti) to Javanese classics (sweet-and-spicy lamb tongseng) and capcay rice. Some of the drinks (iced grass jelly, hot turmeric) border on eclectic.
El’s CoffeeCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.elscoffee.com; Jl Kartini 41; meals around 70,000Rp; h7am-10pm)
This popular coffee shop chain satisfies your caffeine cravings with a wide array of cappuccinos, lattes and frappuccinos (including the downright peculiar popcorn and avocado versions). If you’re hungry, there’s tiramisu, macha cake and Italian-Indonesian fusion dishes.
7Shopping
Lampung produces weavings known as ship cloths (most feature ships), which use rich reds and blues to create primitive-looking geometric designs. Another type is kain tapis, a ceremonial cloth elaborately embroidered with gold thread.
Mulya Sari ArtshopHANDICRAFTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Thamrin 85; h8am-5pm)
A good collection of both ship cloths and kain tapis can be found here.
8Information
ATMs dot central Bandarlampung; BNI Bank machines dispense up to 2,000,000Rp.
Arie Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-474675; www.arietour.com; Jl W Monginsidi 143; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
A helpful travel agent located outside the city centre. Trips taking in Gunung Krakatau and Way Kambas National Park can be booked here.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kotaraja; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The city’s most central branch.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Raden Inten II Airport (%0721-769 7114) is 24km north of the city.
Bus
There are two bus terminals in Bandarlampung. Rajabasa bus terminal is 10km north of town and serves long-distance destinations. Panjang bus terminal is 6km southeast of town along the Lampung Bay road and serves local and provincial destinations.
Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-780 6335) bus-boat combination tickets (184,000Rp, eight to 10 hours) are the most convenient option for heading to Jakarta. Damri buses leave from outside Bandarlampung’s train station at 9am, 10am, 8pm and 9pm, shuttling passengers to the Bakahueni pier, and then picking them up at Java’s Merak pier for the final transfer to Jakarta’s train station.
Train
The train station is in the town centre at the northern mouth of Jl Raden Intan.
TRANSPORT FROM BANDARLAMPUNG
AIR
Destination Airline Frequency
Jakarta Aviastar, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air 16 daily
Palembang Garuda daily
Pulau Batam Garuda daily
Yogykarta Avi
astar daily
BUS
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Bengkulu 150,000 12 several daily
Bukittinggi 250,000-360,000 22 daily
Jakarta 184,000-360,000 8-10 several daily
Krui 60,000 4-5 several daily
Palembang 240,000 10 2 daily
TRAIN
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Lahat/Lubklinggau 35,000-240,000 14/17 2 daily
Palembang 90,000-150,000 8 daily at 4.30am
8Getting Around
For the airport, taxis charge around 140,000Rp for the ride to/from town. All angkot pass through the basement of the Bandar Lampung Plaza ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Jl Raden Intan and the standard fare around town is 3500Rp. To reach the Rajabasa bus terminal, take a green angkot (4500Rp). To reach the Panjang bus terminal, take a green angkot to Sukaraja and then transfer to a red angkot (4500Rp). Taxis and ojeks are scarce.
Way Kambas National Park
This national park is one of the oldest reserves in Indonesia. It occupies 1300 sq km of coastal lowland forest around Sungai Way Kambas on the east coast of Lampung. What little remains of the heavily logged forests is home to endangered species of elephants, rhinos and tigers.
It is believed that around 180 wild Sumatran elephants (Elephas maximus sumatrensis) live in the park, but reliable estimates are uncertain and poaching and development pressures are constant. The Sumatran elephant is a subspecies of the Asian elephant and is found only in Sumatra and Kalimantan. Another rare but endemic creature in Way Kambas is the Sumatran rhino, the only two-horned rhino of the Asian species. Its hide is red in colour with a hairy coat.
The area around Way Kanan, a subdistrict of the park, is frequently visited by birdwatchers, with the white-winged duck and Storm’s stork being particularly sought-after by twitchers.
Also in the park is the Sumatra Rhino Sanctuary, where five rhinos formerly held in captivity are introduced to wild surroundings in the hope of successful breeding, with each assigned a team of keepers to look after their health and nutritional needs.
The Sumatran rhino is a solitary animal and its habitat in the wild is so fractured that conservationists fear the species will die out without intervention. Breeding centres for rhinos are a controversial component of species-protection campaigns as they are expensive to maintain and have reported few successful births. For more information, visit the website of the International Rhino Foundation (www.rhinos-irf.org), one of the lead organisations involved with the centre and antipoaching patrols in the park. It's estimated that less than 20 wild Sumatran rhinos still survive within the park.
For the average visitor not engaged in wildlife conservation, a visit to the park is a nice break from the concrete confines of Jakarta, but it’s not a true wild safari. Most visitors are led through the forest on elephants or by canoes on the Sungai Way Kanan and surrounding waterways. The most commonly spotted animals on the tour include primates and birds. Herds of elephants are seen here from time to time but sightings of the Sumatran tiger are extremely rare.
A day trip to Way Kambas costs around US$170 per person for a minimum of two people and can be arranged through tour operators in Jakarta. Bandarlampung-based tour agents include Arie Tour & Travel.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tourist facilities within the park are limited. About 13km from the entrance to the park, on the main road, is Way Kanan, where there is a collection of simple guesthouses on the banks of Sungai Way Kanan. Food stalls nearby cater to daytrippers and close after dark, so you’ll need to bring food if you’re staying the night.
Satwa Elephant EcolodgeCOTTAGE$$
(%0812 399 5212; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; Jl Taman Nasional Way Kambas; s/d incl breakfast US$55/60; aW)
This delightful ecolodge is located 500m from the park entrance. Four spacious cottages are scattered through the lodge’s leafy orchard of tropical fruit trees, and activities include river trips and mountain-bike rides through the forest. The lodge is also popular with keen birdwatchers. Four-day packages departing Jakarta – including all meals and transport – are US$595 per person.
8Getting There & Away
The entrance to Way Kambas is 110km from Bandarlampung. There are buses from Bandarlampung’s Rajabasa bus terminal to Jepara (38,000Rp, 2½ hours). They pass the signposted entrance road to Way Kambas in the village of Rajabasalama, 10km north of Jepara. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Metro (20,000Rp, one hour) and then another to Rajabasalama (22,000Rp, 1½ hours). From the beginning of the entrance road you can hire a motorcycle to take you to and from the park entrance.
Gunung Krakatau
Krakatau may have come closer to destroying the planet than any other volcano in recent history, when it erupted in 1883. Tens of thousands were killed either by the resulting tidal wave or by the pyroclastic flows that crossed 40km of ocean to incinerate Sumatran coastal villages. Afterwards all that was left was a smouldering caldera where a cluster of uninhabited islands had once been. Perhaps peace had come, thought local villagers. But Krakatau, like all scrappy villains, re-awoke in 1927 and resulting eruptions created a new volcanic cone, since christened Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau). It’s estimated that Anak Krakatau is growing by around 5m every year.
Tours to the island launch from West Java or from Kalianda on the Sumatran coast. Organised day trips with Arie Tour & Travel in Bandarlampung cost around US$300 per person (based on two people). Krakatau Tours (www.krakatau-tour.com) runs day tours from Jakarta (6,000,000Rp for three people), complete with English-speaking guide and powerful speedboat.
When Krakatau is rumbling, ascents are forbidden, but tour companies may not make you aware of this fact, and you’ll end up paying for a very expensive boat trip. Try to check independently whether Krakatau is off-limits.
You can also join up with weekenders chartering boats from the fishing village of Canti, located outside of Kalianda, a coastal town south of Bandarlampung. Canti is reachable by frequent local buses from Bandarlampung’s Rajabasa bus terminal (35,000Rp, 1½ hours). Charters usually cost around 300,000Rp per person, but with a minimum of five people. There are regular angkot from Kalianda to Canti (10,000Rp), and an ojek from Kalianda to Canti is around 30,000Rp.
Bakauheni
Bakauheni is the major ferry terminal between Java and southern Sumatra. The journey between the two islands sounds like a snap until you factor in land transport between the ferry terminals and the major towns on either side. Bakauheni is 90km from Bandarlampung, a bus journey of two or three hours. In Java, the bus transfer from the port of Merak to Jakarta is another two-hour journey. Damri runs bus-boat-bus combinations linking Sumatra and Java.
Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park
At the southern tip of Sumatra, this national park comprises one of the island’s last stands of lowland forests. For this reason the World Wildlife Fund has ranked it as one of the planet’s most biologically outstanding habitats and is working to conserve the park’s remaining Sumatran rhinos and tigers; it is also identified as the most important forest area for tiger conservation in the world. The park is also famous for many endemic bird species that prefer foothill climates, and several species of sea turtle that nest along the park’s coastal zone.
Of the 356,000 hectares originally designated as protected, less than 324,000 hectares remain untouched. The usual suspects are responsible: illegal logging, illegal encroachment of coffee, pepper and other plantations, and poachers.
Tourist infrastructure in the park is very limited and most people visit on organised tours; it may be possible to organise one from Krui. The main access point into the park is through the town of Kota Agung, 80km west of Bandarlampung.
Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan (%0722-21095; Jl Raya Terbaya; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) was inexplicably closed when we visited but does, in theory, sell permits into the park and can arrange guides and trekking information. However, we have also been told
of incidents where visitors were not allowed access to the park at all and even surfers wishing to ride the coastal waters adjacent to the park were turned back by a boatload of serious-looking men with guns.
Kota Agung has several basic hotels.There are frequent buses from Bandarlampung to Kota Agung (16,000Rp).
Kalimantan
Kalimantan Highlights
West Kalimantan
Pontianak
Sungai Kapuas
Sukadana
Central Kalimantan
Tanjung Puting National Park
Kumai
Pangkalan Bun
Palangka Raya
South Kalimantan
Banjarmasin
Kandangan
Negara
Loksado
East Kalimantan
Balikpapan
Samarinda
Sungai Mahakam
The Muller Mountains
Kutai National Park
Berau
Merabu
Derawan Archipelago
North Kalimantan
Kalimantan
13.8 million
Why Go?
Skewered by the equator and roasting under a tropical sun, the steamy forests of Kalimantan serve up endless opportunities for epic rainforest exploration. The island has no volcanoes and is protected from tsunamis, which has allowed its ancient forests to grow towering trees that house some of the world's most memorable species. The noble orangutan shares the canopy with acrobatic gibbons, while prehistoric hornbills patrol the air above.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 113
