by Maryse Conde
People on the jetty are guessing the weight of the wicker basket that Lourdes is carrying. Are they leaving for good, these shameless hussies, these dames-gabrielle? Let them take their loose living elsewhere so that young girls from good families can marry at church with veil and crown!
With not enough money for the steamship that leaves Grand Bourg every Wednesday for La Pointe, the trio settles down at the front of the schooner Arc-en-Ciel. The stern is reserved for merchandise, animals, piglets, chickens, and goats. Rocked by the breeze and the movement of the waves, Jeanne soon falls asleep. Lourdes bites into a danikite doughnut.
What was Victoire thinking during the never-ending crossing? Did she realize she was seeing Marie-Galante for the very last time? The odds are that she was oblivious to the splendid panorama: the islands of Les Saintes playing dice on the velvet of the ocean, the colored ridges of the Soufrière volcano, and the gauzelike scarves of clouds. Her only thoughts were for Caldonia and the days spent with her. Did she regret turning her back on this flat island where lay the graves of her mother and grandmother?
As a precaution against seasickness she had brought along some lemons. Her tense fist became sticky from squeezing the slices as she unconsciously forgot to put them in her mouth.
Since the wind was brisk, they arrived early midafternoon at the entrance to the harbor at La Pointe through a difficult narrow passage where the isles of Cochon, Pitre, and Montroux drift
toward the headland at Jarry. At that time, one side of the Place de la Victoire, devoid of wharfs, came to rest on a quiet beach while the other three sides were lined by the trees of liberty, the sandbox trees planted by M. Victor Hughes. In the neighboring streets, cases and bundles of merchandise were piled up in front of the stores amid heaps of packing straw and canvas. True to their habits, a crowd of loudmouthed and ragged dockers stared at the young girls. Lourdes was offended by the catcalls and lewd invitations, whereas Victoire kept walking, head lowered, hugging her child to her heart.
Once again they didn’t have enough money to pay for the coach that traveled from La Pointe to Goyave in two hours and forty-five minutes. They had to make do with one of the sailboats that linked up with Petit Bourg by way of the Petit Cul-de-Sac. Since they were to set sail at dawn, they had to sleep at the house of a certain Sigismonde Quidal on the road to Les Abymes, who asked next to nothing for the room and pig-foot soup.
They left at four in the morning, the baby muffled up to her eyes, the adults shivering in the cool of the predawn. They had been kept awake by the chimes of the church of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul. They had just dropped off when the din of the night soil carts and the smell of their contents abundantly spread over the sidewalks once again interrupted their sleep. At La Pointe, the town’s sanitation services resembled Rio de Janeiro’s, a city that didn’t have cesspools either. Excrement was poured into barrels, the contents of which were then thrown into the sea.
On the other side of the bay, nestled up against the mountains, the busy streets of Petit Bourg hinted at the crowded town it is today. Lourdes and Victoire did not linger and set off for Goyave, carrying the baby in turns as they walked the six or seven kilometers. Victoire was frightened by the roar of the rivers and gullies that wound under the rope bridges, as well as by the stifling thickness of the vigorous vegetation ready to swallow her up: all types of trees whose armpits were eaten away by wild pineapples, creepers, orchids, tree ferns, and shrubs. This landscape was so different from the flat cane fields of Marie-Galante, dotted here and there by windmills. At times they were forced into the ditch to avoid the oxcarts, trundling along amid the cracking of whips, the swearing of the drivers, and the creaking of the axles.
The town of Goyave was nothing more than a hamlet. A few cabins scattered along the seashore. But it took them hours to find Elie’s. Fortunately, at the church that had been totally destroyed by the 1843 earthquake and rebuilt in stone, the asthmatic priest was kind enough to give them directions. They had to walk along the railroad tracks, used for transporting the cane to the Marquisat factory in Capesterre, until they reached the entrance to the beach at Sainte-Claire. Dusk was falling when they finally knocked on the right door.
Alas! Bobette was giving birth to her twelfth child.
You would have expected it to be a mere formality, to go off without a hitch, as the saying goes. Far from it. The poor woman was losing pints of blood and screaming like an animal in agony. Some matronly neighbors were busy carrying scarlet-stained sheets and calabashes of water. The following morning Elie was a widower, father of Eliacin, the fifth son, a pale crybaby of a boy who never got over the death of his mother. Elie suffered a lot. In his own reserved way, he had adored his Bobette. It’s true she was no longer very lovely. It’s true she had become fat, enormous even, from giving birth, and from eating breadfruit, dombwé dumplings, and thick soup. Even so, she had meant a lot to him.
The next morning, they were getting ready for the wake ceremony when a tilbury jolted into the sunken lane. A young woman got out. Blonde, perfumed, dressed like a princess out of a fairy tale, it was Anne-Marie Walberg. You can imagine the effect this visit had on the wretched surroundings. People gaped in embarrassment.
It is obvious that Anne-Marie and Victoire, who were at an age for conspiring and scheming in secret, had agreed to meet up at Goyave. The former had assured the latter that, newly wedded to a man of prominence, she was in a position to help her. There remained, however, a number of questions concerning this shocking behavior. Out of respect for her uncle’s mourning, couldn’t Victoire have postponed her plans? No way. The two accomplices did their whispering on the doorstep. Then Anne-Marie went and kneeled at the side of the deceased, laid out on her bed, and squeezed into her best dress. In the meantime, Victoire gathered up her old clothes and cradled Jeanne in her arms. At first nobody could understand what was going on. Their eyes were opened when both women climbed into the tilbury. The concert of “Oh, Good Lord!” alerted Lourdes, who came out with the foreboding of misfortune. On seeing her, Victoire sat the child on her lap and made her wave with one of her tiny hands.
That was how Jeanne said farewell to her origins of Marie-Galante.
She was never to return to her native island. She was never to know any member of her mother’s family. Her mother never described to her La Treille or Grand Bourg and she never spoke to us, her children, about it. Is that why Marie-Galante in my imagination signifies a mythical land, a lost paradise waiting to be repossessed? I had lost my placenta there, buried under a tree I could no longer find. Elie was often tempted to force his way into the Walbergs’ home. But feelings about distance were different then. La Pointe, which is situated at a mere twenty or so kilometers from Goyave, seemed to be on the other side of the world. Elie got the impression it could only be reached after a voyage as long and perilous as that taken by Christopher Columbus’s caravels, the Niña and the Pinta.
He renounced such an undertaking. I know that later on one of his sons managed to draw closer to Jeanne. Occasionally, he would turn up at mealtimes. He was the only one who forced open the barriers erected by our family.
MORE THAN TWENTY years after the event, Lourdes, who had settled down in Goyave, married a fisherman and produced ten children, still lamented:
“Victoire, she was my little sister. Sésé an mwen. Her child, she was my child. Ti moun an mwen. It’s as if she came out of my womb. When she turned her back on us like that, I wanted to die. And then I understood. What she wanted for her child was an upstairs-downstairs house made of concrete and wood. Behind it, a hurricane shelter. In the bedroom, a four-poster bed and a stool to climb up into it. That’s what she wanted and that’s what she got. But you don’t trample on the hearts of one’s family for all that nonsense. Just for that. It might be all right to insult the living. But you should never disrespect the dead! Can you imagine! Bobette was lying on the other side of the wall. Victoire left without even kneeling to whisper a good-bye. I’ll say it again, y
ou don’t disrespect the dead. Otherwise they take their revenge and their revenge is terrible. You can’t escape it, even if you run in every direction like a rat smoked out from a cane field. That’s why, I’m pretty sure, she never knew a single day of happiness. You can’t have a wicked heart and be happy.”
Elie was more temperate, even though Victoire’s behavior had sickened him, he whose feelings had already been so hurt. On that day he had lost not only his wife, but through Victoire and Jeanne all that remained of his beloved twin sister, Eliette. Stoical, he shook his head:
“Life is an Arab stallion. It throws us to the ground one after the other. If the cane doesn’t kill you, something else will. Wicked heart? No, I don’t think Victoire had a wicked heart. She simply was looking for a better life for her child and that’s what we all want. Isn’t that right?”
In this discussion I will try and excuse Victoire. Anne-Marie promised to come to her aid by procuring her a job as a cook. Not only was it a way of rescuing her, but also of ensuring a roof for her child. But Anne-Marie had no use for Victoire’s ragtag relations of field Negroes, country bookies, and boo-boos. She didn’t want them on her floor. Victoire, who was in no position to protest, had to accept her conditions. I have to admit too that Caldonia’s death, Dernier’s desertion, and all the vile deeds of Marie-Galante had hardened her heart. She had loved her grandmother so much that, deprived of her warmth, she withdrew into herself. As for the island that had treated her so badly, she returned the compliment.
AROUND 1892 LA Pointe, “the yellow city,” numbered a little under twenty thousand souls. Prosperous in spite of her incredible filth, she had been the prime victim of natural catastrophes. We may recall that after the February 1843 earthquake, rear admiral Gourbeyre, then governor of Guadeloupe, addressed the following dramatic message to his ministry in charge: “At the moment I am writing to you I have learned that La Pointe no longer exists.”
He was mistaken; La Pointe was born again like a phoenix from its ashes. But it was still not out of the woods. In September 1865 a powerful hurricane devastated it once again. Six years later a fire destroyed it entirely. As a consequence Boniface Walberg, heir in 1889 to his uncle Ludovic, who had returned to France given the difficulties of the sugar industry, reinforced with masonry the house on the rue de Nassau, a little outside the center on the western outskirts of town. He even went so far as to cast a concrete slab on the roof, which had the annoying habit of flying off at the slightest blow of wind, and then cover it with slate tiles. His house was now a replica of his store, whose facade stretched twenty meters along the quai Lardenoy, adjacent to the businessmen’s club where they held the most magnificent of balls. The house on the rue Nassau had one particular feature: a secret garden at the back, hidden from prying eyes, like certain houses in London. Behind the kitchen and the washhouse there were almost a thousand meters of lawn where a large-leafed licuala and two blue palm trees grew. Anastasie, Uncle Ludovic’s wife, had planted some pomegranate trees with bright red flowers.
We note that the name of Boniface Walberg was listed in the General Business Almanac, which included the names of the most important merchants. His employees, whom he treated with a rare correctness at a time of inequality, had invented the half-affectionate, half-mocking nickname of Bèf pòtoriko because he was short-legged, thickset, with a forehead hidden under a fringe of hair as black as the coat of a bull from Puerto Rico. They credited him also with a member that would not have been out of place on such a creature. If you believed the gossip, the dames-gabrielle from a bordello on the Morne à Cayes, which he frequented regularly before his affair with Victoire, avoided him, fearful of his iron rod. Underneath this appearance he was in fact someone unsure of himself, timorous, even fainthearted. He had let himself be hoodwinked into marrying Anne-Marie Dulieu-Beaufort, who had brought him as a dowry nothing more than a violin, not even a Stradivarius, a mundane instrument purchased for a few francs at an instrument maker’s in La Pointe. Authoritarian, and a head taller than he, she intimidated him to such a degree that he made love to her only on the fifth night of their marriage. It had been a fiasco. Ever since, he had been such a rare visitor to her bed that when in exasperation she announced she was pregnant, he was close to thinking it was another machination of the Holy Ghost.
He started eating dinner alone, having learned that his wife had gone to Goyave without telling him, as usual.
“Goyave? What on earth is she doing in Goyave?”
Flaminia, the servant, had no idea.
Those who know their geography know that the river Salée is the name of the stretch of sea that separates Grande Terre and La Pointe from Basse-Terre and Goyave. A barge operated as a ferry to cross it. Anne-Marie and Victoire had to wait their turn for two full hours, stuck between numerous carriages.
When they arrived at rue de Nassau it was already dark.
Holding his spoon midair, Boniface looked at the strange trio that came into view. Anne-Marie, regal, wearing a low-cut dress revealing the cameo jewel nestled against her ample breasts; a small, frail mulatto girl wearing a black-and-white-check madras headtie whose pale eyes were boring into him; and a chubby baby who was exhausted by the trip, going by her shrieks.
“This is Victoire, our new cook.” Anne-Marie made the introductions with an air of authority.
Oh, Boniface said to himself, befuddled by Victoire’s gaze, so we needed a new cook. Flaminia wasn’t enough.
“À vòt sèvis, mèt!” the mulatto girl murmured in Creole, in a voice that, like her gaze, sent shivers down his spine.
Before he had had time to emit the sound of an answer or pronounce a banal “ka ou fè” greeting, the trio had left the room and swept up the stairs.
Flaminia reappeared carrying the cod brandade and red beans.
“She’s putting her in the Regency room,” she hissed.
She hated Anne-Marie, whose spitefulness outdid her own. In her youth, she had brought Boniface up during his childhood on Marie-Galante, been one of his father’s mistresses, and kept house for him while he was a bachelor. For him, she had left the scents of her island for this filthy town that stank of excrement and dead dogs and where the dames-gabrielle shamelessly traded their charms.
The room they half jokingly called the Regency room, the loveliest in the house, was situated on the third floor. It owed its name to two Regency-style armchairs with lion’s feet and a sofa in the same style, mounted likewise on lion’s claws, which served as a bed.
More than anyone, Boniface dreaded Anne-Marie’s moods and stinging repartee. He kept mum about the extravagant idea of attributing the Regency room to a cook and her brat, thus deserving once more the pet name Flaminia had given to him, Pontius Pilate.
Disgusted, Flaminia showered him with a look of commiseration.
SIX
Officially, then, Victoire was hired as a cook in the service of the Walbergs. Yet there is no document to confirm this. With her very first meal she astounded the entire family. Far from merely cooking Creole dishes with panache, she used her imagination to invent them. On her second day, she served up a guinea fowl au gros sel and two types of cabbage that sent Boniface, who, we must confess, was already under her charm, into raptures.
What I am claiming is the legacy of this woman, who apparently did not leave any. I want to establish the link between her creativity and mine, to switch from the savors, the colors, and the smells of meat and vegetables to those of words. Victoire did not have a name for her dishes and that didn’t seem to bother her. Most of her days she spent locked up in the temple of her kitchen, a small shack behind the house, set slightly back from the washhouse. Not saying a word, head bent, absorbed over her kitchen range like a writer hunched over her computer. She would let nobody chop a chive or press a lemon, as if in the kitchen no task was humble enough when aiming at perfection. She frequently tasted the food, but once the composition was completed, she never touched it again.
Her reputation for the ti
me being, however, remained within the boundaries of the rue de Nassau. Since neither Anne-Marie nor Boniface entertained at home, folk in La Pointe for a long time knew nothing of the jewel they possessed.
In the meantime, they settled into a ménage of three, even four, whispered malicious gossip, though we have no proof. Contrary to the usual practice of women of her class, who often led a life of leisure, Anne-Marie privileged music over writing and did not keep a diary. All we know of her is through a regular correspondence of no great interest, comprised of letters to her mother, Rochelle, and to her brothers and sisters, especially Etienne, who was her favorite. We can only go by a number of clues. The servants’ gossip, led by Flaminia, and the spitefulness of the white Creoles in La Pointe, all were in agreement that the true Madame Walberg was not who we thought she was. Unlike most children, Jeanne was weaned very early on and placed in a box room that had been converted into an English nursery for the Walberg children while under the supervision of a mabo. The furniture in the Regency room was changed. The sofa, elegant but uncomfortable, especially for two people, was replaced by a sleigh bed. As soon as they repealed the Edict of March 1724, which had been lying around for over a hundred years in the drawers of the Ministry for the Colonies, prohibiting a donation inter vivos to any descendant of slaves, Boniface transferred a sum to the account of Jeanne, which she drew out on reaching her majority. Later on he included her in his will. A letter that Anne-Marie wrote to Etienne, quoted in a history thesis defended at the College for Social Sciences in Paris, contains the following sentence, which is open to interpretation:
“I loathe the life I lead, even though our faithful and beloved Victoire consoles me by relieving me of many an obligation.”
In the same thesis, entitled “From Plantation Owner to Businessman: A History of the White Creoles in Guadeloupe,” my attention was also caught by a letter that Boniface wrote to Evremond, his older brother, who was very close to him, although they went different ways: “My life would be filled with unhappiness if it weren’t constantly illuminated by the devotion of my faithful Victoire.”
