by Jim Morekis
S Old Burying Ground
One of the most beautiful places in all of North Carolina, Beaufort’s Old Burying Ground (Anne St., daily dawn-dusk) is as picturesque a cemetery as you’d ever want to be buried in. It’s quite small by the standards of some old Carolina towns and crowded with 18th- and 19th-century stones. Huge old live oaks, Spanish moss, wisteria, and resurrection ferns, which unfurl and turn green after a rainstorm, give the Burying Ground an irresistibly Gothic feel. Many of the headstones reflect the maritime heritage of this town, such as that of a sea captain whose epitaph reads, “The form that fills this silent grave / Once tossed on ocean’s rolling wave / But in a port securely fast / He’s dropped his anchor here at last.”
Beaufort’s Old Burying Ground
Captain Otway Burns, an early privateer who spent much time in Beaufort, is buried here; his grave is easy to spot, as it is topped by a canon from his ship, the Snap Dragon. Nearby is another of the graveyard’s famous burials, that of the “Little Girl Buried in a Barrel of Rum.” This unfortunate waif is said to have died at sea and been placed in a cask of rum to preserve her body for burial on land. Visitors often bring toys and trinkets to leave on her grave, which is marked by a simple wooden plank. Feel free to add to her haul of goodies, but it’s not karmically advisable to tamper with those already here.
Beaufort Historic Site
The Beaufort Historic Site (130 Turner St., 252/728-5225, www.beauforthistoricsite.org, Dec.-Feb. Mon.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Mar.-Nov. Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-5pm, $8 adults, $4 children) recreates life in late 18th- and early 19th-century Beaufort in several restored historic buildings. The 1770s “jump-and-a-half” (1½-story) Leffers Cottage reflects middle-class life in its day, as a merchant, a whaler, or, in this case, a schoolmaster would have lived in it. The Josiah Bell and John Manson Houses, both from the 1820s, reflect the graceful Caribbean-influenced architecture so prevalent in the early days of the coastal South. A restored apothecary shop, a 1790s wooden courthouse, and a haunted 1820s jail that was used into the 1950s are among the other important structures. There are tours led by costumed interpreters as well as driving tours of the old town in double-decker buses.
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Diving
North Carolina’s coast is a surprisingly good place for diving. The Discovery Diving Company (414 Orange St., 252/728-2265, www.discoverydiving.com, $65-110 per excursion) leads half- and full-day diving trips to explore the reefs and dozens of fascinating shipwrecks that lie at the bottom of the Sounds and ocean near Beaufort.
Blackbeard and Bonnet: The Boys of 1718
In the 18th century the Carolina coast was positively verminous with pirates. For the most part they hung out around Charleston Harbor, like a bunch of rowdies on a frat house balcony, causing headaches for passersby. Some liked to venture up the coast, however, into the inlets and sounds of North Carolina. The most famous local pirates were Blackbeard, whose real name was Edward Teach, and Stede Bonnet. They did most of their misbehaving in our waters during 1718.
Blackbeard is said never to have killed a man except in self-defense, but clearly he was so bad he didn’t need to kill to make his badness known. He was a huge man with a beard that covered most of his face, and his hair is usually depicted twisted up into ferocious dreadlocks. He wore a bright red coat and festooned himself with every weapon small enough to carry; as if all that didn’t make him scary enough, he liked to wear burning cannon fuses tucked under the brim of his hat. He caused trouble from the Bahamas to Virginia, taking ships, treasure, and child brides as fancy led him.
Poor Stede Bonnet. With a name like that, he should have known better than to try to make a living intimidating people. He is said to have been something of a fancy-pants, a man with wealth, education, and a nagging wife. To get away from his better half, he bought a ship, hired a crew, and set sail for a life of crime. Though never quite as tough as Blackbeard, with whom he was briefly partners, Bonnet caused enough trouble along the Southern coast that the gentry of Charleston saw to it that he was captured and hanged. Meanwhile, the Virginia nabobs had also had it with Blackbeard’s interference in coastal commerce, and Lieutenant Governor Alexander Spotswood dispatched his men to kill him. This they did at Ocracoke, but it wasn’t easy; even after they shot, stabbed, and beheaded Blackbeard, his body taunted them by swimming laps around the ship before finally giving up the ghost.
Blackbeard has in effect surfaced again. In 1996 a ship was found off the North Carolina coast that was identified as Blackbeard’s flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge. All manner of intriguing artifacts have been brought up from the ocean floor: cannons and blunderbuss parts, early hand grenades, even a penis syringe supposed to have been used by the syphilitic pirates to inject themselves with mercury. (During one standoff in Charleston Harbor, Blackbeard and his men took hostages to ransom for medical supplies. Perhaps this explains why they were so desperate.) To view artifacts and learn more about Blackbeard, Stede Bonnet, and their lowdown ways, visit the North Carolina Maritime Museum in Beaufort and in Southport, as well as the websites of the Queen Anne’s Revenge (www.qaronline.com) and the Office of State Archaeology (www.arch.dcr.state.nc.us).
Cruises and Wildlife Tours
Coastal Ecology Tours (252/247-3860, www.goodfortunesails.com, prices vary) runs very special tours on the Good Fortune of the Cape Lookout National Seashore and other island locations in the area, as well as a variety of half-day, day-long, overnight, and short trips to snorkel, shell, kayak, and watch birds, as well as cruises to Morehead City restaurants and other educational and fun trips. Prices range from $40 pp for a 2.5-hour dolphin-watching tour to $600 per night plus meals for an off-season overnight boat rental.
Lookout Cruises (600 Front St., 252/504-7245, www.lookoutcruises.com) carries sightseers on lovely catamaran rides in the Beaufort and Core Sound region, out to Cape Lookout, and on morning dolphin-watching trips. Island Ferry Adventures (610 Front St., 252/728-7555, www.islandferryadventures.com, $10-15 adults, $5-8 children) runs dolphin-watching tours, trips to collect shells at Cape Lookout, and trips to see the wild ponies of Shackleford Banks. Mystery Tours (600 Front St., 252/728-7827 or 866/230-2628, www.mysteryboattours.com, $15-50 adults, free-$25 children, some cruises adults only) offers harbor tours and dolphin-watching trips as well as a variety of brunch, lunch, and dinner cruises and trips to wild islands where children can hunt for treasure.
Accommodations
S Outer Banks Houseboats (324 Front St., 252/728-4129, www.outerbankshouseboats.com) will rent you your own floating vacation home, sail it for you to a scenic spot, anchor it, and then come and check in on you every day during your stay. You’ll have a skiff for your own use, but you may just want to lie on the deck all day and soak up the peacefulness. Rates run from $1,200 per weekend for the smaller houseboat to $3,000 per week for the luxury boat, with plenty of rental options in between.
The Inlet Inn (601 Front St., 800/554-5466, www.inlet-inn.com, $110-170) has one of the best locations in town, right on the water, near the docks where many of the ferry and tour boats land. If planning to go dolphin-watching or hop the ferry to Cape Lookout, you can get ready at a leisurely pace, and just step outside to the docks. Even in high season, rates are quite reasonable.
The Beaufort Inn (101 Ann St., 252/728-2600, www.beaufort-inn.com, $200-250) is a large hotel on Gallants Channel, along one side of the colonial district. It’s an easy walk to the main downtown attractions, and the hotel’s outdoor hot tub and balconies with great views make it tempting to stay in as well. The Pecan Tree Inn (116 Queen St., 800/728-7871, www.pecantree.com, $135-175) is such a grand establishment that the town threw a parade in honor of the laying of its cornerstone in 1866. The house is still splendid, as are the 5,000-square-foot gardens. Catty-corner to the Old Burying Grounds is the Langdon House Bed and Breakfast (135 Craven St., 252/728-5499, www.langdonhouse.com, $120-185). One of the oldest buildings in town, this gorgeous house was built in the 1730s on a foundation of
English ballast stones.
Food
Among the Beaufort eateries certified by Carteret Catch as serving local seafood are the Blue Moon Bistro (119 Queen St., 252/728-5800, www.bluemoonbistro.biz, Tues.-Sat. 5:30pm-10pm, $17-35) and Aqua Restaurant (114 Middle Lane, “behind Clawsons,” 252/728-7777, www.aquaexperience.com, Tues.-Sat. 5:30pm-9:30pm, $15-25).
If you’re traveling with a cooler and want to buy some local seafood to take home, try the Fishtowne Seafood Center (100 Wellons Dr., 252/728-6644) or Tripps Seafood (1224 Harkers Island Rd., 252/447-7700).
S Beaufort Grocery (117 Queen St., 252/728-3899, www.beaufortgrocery.com, lunch and dinner Wed.-Mon., brunch Sun., $20-36), despite its humble name, is a sophisticated little eatery. At lunch it serves salads and crusty sandwiches along with “Damn Good Gumbo” and specialty soups. In the evening the café atmosphere gives way to that of a more formal gourmet dining room. Some of the best entrées include boneless chicken breast sautéed with pecans in a hazelnut cream sauce; Thai-rubbed roast half duckling; and whole baby rack of lamb, served with garlic mashed potatoes, tortillas, and a margarita-chipotle sauce. Try the cheesecake for dessert.
The waterfront Front Street Grill (300 Front St., 252/728-4956, www.frontstreetgrillatstillwater.com, Tues.-Sat. lunch 11:30 am-2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm-9:30pm, Sunday brunch 11:30am-2:30pm, $15-22) is popular with boaters drifting through the area, as well as diners who arrive by land. The emphasis is on seafood and fresh regional ingredients. Front Street Grill’s wine list is extensive, and they have repeatedly won Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence.
Aqua (114 Middle Lane, 252/728-7777, www.aquaexperience.com, dinner Tues.-Thurs. 6pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm, small plates $8-14, big plates $23-28) divides its menu into “small plates” and “big plates,” so you can make up a dinner tapas-style and sample more of the menu. The fare ranges from Southern classics like shrimp and grits to more exotic fare like a Japanese bento box with yellow fin tuna, calamari, and shrimp spring rolls. Vegetarians will find limited options, but if you’re looking for local seafood, you’re in luck.
HARKERS ISLAND
The Core Sound region, which stretches to the east-northeast of Beaufort many miles up to the Pamlico Sound, is a region of birds and boats. Consequently, hunting has always been a way of life here, almost as much as fishing. In earlier generations (and to a much lesser extent today), people who fished most of the year did a sideline business in bird hunting; not only would they eat the birds they shot, but they made money selling feathers for women’s hats, trained bird dogs for their own and other hunters’ use, and served as guides to visiting hunters. Many Down Easterners also became expert decoy carvers. This art survives today, partly as art for art’s sake, and also for its original purpose.
To get to Harkers Island, follow U.S. 70 east from Beaufort, around the dogleg that skirts the North River. A little east of the town of Otway you’ll see Harkers Island Road. Take a right on Harkers Island Road and head south toward Straits. Straits Road will take you through the town of Straits, and then across a bridge over the straits themselves, finally ending up on Harkers Island.
S Core Sound Waterfowl Museum
The Core Sound Waterfowl Museum (1785 Island Rd., Harkers Island, 252/728-1500, www.coresound.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 2pm-5pm, free), which occupies a beautiful modern building on Shell Point, next to the Cape Lookout National Seashore headquarters, is a community labor of love. The museum is home to exhibits crafted by members of the communities represented, depicting Down East maritime life through decoys, nets, and other tools of the trades, everyday household objects, beautiful quilts and other utilitarian folk arts, and lots of other things held dear by local people. This is a sophisticated, modern institution, but its community roots are evident in touching details like the index-card labels, written in the careful script of elderly women, explaining what certain objects are, what they were used for, and who made them. The museum hosts monthly get-togethers for members of Down East communities, a different town every month, which are like old home days.
Core Sound Decoy Carvers Guild
Twenty years ago, some decoy-carving friends Down East decided over a pot of stewed clams to found the Core Sound Decoy Carvers Guild (1575 Harkers Island Rd., 252/838-8818, www.decoyguild.com, call for hours). The Guild, which is open to the public, gives demonstrations, hosts competitions, and holds classes for adults and children, and it has a museum shop that’s a nice place to browse.
Events
The Core Sound Decoy Carvers Guild also hosts the Core Sound Decoy Festival, usually held in the early winter. Several thousand people come to this annual event—more than the number of permanent residents on Harkers Island—to buy, swap, and teach the art of making decoys.
Food
Captain’s Choice Restaurant (977 Island Rd., 252/728-7122, Fri.-Sun. 7am-9pm, Tues.-Thurs. 10am-9pm) is a great place to try traditional Down East chowder. Usually made of clams, but sometimes with other shellfish or fish, chowder in Carteret County is a point of pride. The point is the flavor of the seafood itself, which must be extremely fresh, and not hidden behind lots of milk and spices. Captain’s Choice serves chowder in the old-time way—with dumplings.
MOREHEAD CITY
Giovanni da Verrazzano may have been the first European to set foot in present-day Morehead City when he sailed into Bogue Inlet. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the town actually came into being, built as the terminus of the North Carolina Railroad to connect the state’s overland commerce to the sea. Despite its late start, Morehead City has been a busy place. During the Civil War it was the site of major encampments by both armies. A series of horrible hurricanes in the 1890s, culminating in 1899’s San Ciriaco Hurricane, brought hundreds of refugees from the towns along what is now the Cape Lookout National Seashore. They settled in a neighborhood that they called Promise Land, and many of their descendants are still here.
boats in Morehead City’s harbor
The Atlantic and North Carolina Railroad operated a large hotel here in the 1880s, ushering in Morehead’s role as a tourist spot, and the bridge to the Bogue Banks a few decades later increased holiday traffic considerably.
Morehead is also an official state port, one of the best deepwater harbors on the Atlantic Coast. This admixture of tourism and gritty commerce gives Morehead City a likeable, real-life feel missing in many coastal towns today.
Sights
Morehead City’s history is on display at The History Place (1008 Arendell St., 252/247-7533, www.thehistoryplace.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, free). There are many interesting and eye-catching historical artifacts on display, but the most striking exhibit is that of a carriage, clothes, and other items pertaining to Emeline Pigott, Morehead City’s Confederate heroine. She was a busy girl all through the Civil War, working as a nurse, a spy, and a smuggler. The day she was captured, she was carrying 30 pounds of contraband hidden in her skirts, including Union troop movement plans, a collection of gloves, several dozen skeins of silk, needles, toothbrushes, a pair of boots, and five pounds of candy.
Entertainment and Events
Seafood is a serious art in Morehead City. North Carolina’s second-largest festival takes place in town every October—the enormous North Carolina Seafood Festival (252/726-6273, www.ncseafoodfestival.org). The city’s streets shut down and over 150,000 visitors descend on the waterfront. Festivities kick off with a blessing of the fleet, followed with music, fireworks, competitions (including the flounder toss), and, of course, lots and lots of food.
If you’re in the area on the right weekend in November, you’ll not want to deprive yourself of the gluttonous splendor of the Mill Creek Oyster Festival (Mill Creek Volunteer Fire Department, 2370 Mill Creek Rd., Mill Creek, 252/247-4777). Food, and lots of it, is the focus of this event. It’s a small-town fete, a benefit for the local volunteer fire department, and the meals are cooked by local experts. You’ll be able to choose from all-you-can-eat roasted oysters, fried shrimp, f
ried spot (a local fish), and more, all in mass quantities. The oysters may not be local these days (and few served on this coast are), but the cooking is very local—an authentic taste of one of North Carolina’s best culinary traditions. Mill Creek is northwest of Morehead City on the Newport River.
Sports and Recreation
Many of this region’s most important historic and natural sites are underwater. From Morehead City’s Olympus Dive Center (713 Shepard St., 252/726-9432, www.olympusdiving.com), divers of all levels of experience can take charter trips to dozens of natural and artificial reefs that teem with fish, including the ferocious-looking but not terribly dangerous eight-foot-long sand tiger shark. There are at least as many amazing shipwrecks to choose from, including an 18th-century schooner, a luxury liner, a German U-boat, and many Allied commercial and military ships that fell victim to the U-boats that infested this coast during World War II.
Food
The Sanitary Fish Market (501 Evans St., 252/247-3111, www.sanitaryfishmarket.com, daily 11:30am-9:30pm, $15-20) is probably Morehead City’s best-known institution. The rather odd name reflects its 1930s origins as a seafood market that was bound by its lease and its fastidious landlord to be kept as clean as possible. Today it’s a huge family seafood restaurant. Long lines in season and on weekends demonstrate its popularity. Of particular note are its famous hush puppies, which have a well-deserved reputation as some of the best in the state. Be sure to buy a Sanitary T-shirt on the way out; it’ll help you blend in everywhere else in the state.
