by Jim Morekis
Bird-Watching
Right in Charleston Harbor is the little Crab Bank Heritage Preserve (803/734-3886), where thousands of migratory birds can be seen, depending on the season. October-April you can either kayak there yourself or take a charter with Nature Adventures Outfitters (1900 Iron Swamp Rd., Awendaw Island, 800/673-0679). On James Island southwest of Charleston is Legare Farms (2620 Hanscombe Point Rd., 843/559-0763, www.legarefarms.com), which holds migratory bird walks ($6 adults, $3 children) in the fall each Saturday at 8:30am.
Ice-Skating
Ice-skating in South Carolina? Yep, 100,000 square feet of it, year-round at the two NHL-size rinks of the Carolina Ice Palace (7665 Northwoods Blvd., North Charleston, 843/572-2717, www.carolinaicepalace.com, $7 adults, $6 children). This is also the practice facility for the local hockey team, the Stingrays, as well as where The Citadel’s hockey team plays.
SPECTATOR SPORTS
Charleston River Dogs
A New York Yankees farm team playing in the South Atlantic League, the Charleston River Dogs (www.riverdogs.com, $5 general admission) play April-August at Joseph P. Riley Jr. Park, a.k.a. “The Joe” (360 Fishburne St.). The park is great, and there are a lot of fun promotions to keep things interesting should the play on the field be less than stimulating (as minor league ball often can be). Because of the intimate, retro design of the park, there are no bad seats, so you might as well save a few bucks and go for the general admission ticket. From downtown, get to The Joe by taking Broad Street west until it turns into Lockwood Drive. Follow that north until you get to Brittlebank Park and The Joe, next to The Citadel. Expect to pay $3-5 for parking.
Family Circle Cup
Moved to Daniel Island in 2001 from its longtime home in Hilton Head, the prestigious Family Circle Cup women’s tennis tournament is held each April at the Family Circle Tennis Center (161 Seven Farms Dr., Daniel Island, 843/856-7900, www.familycirclecup.com, admission varies). Almost 100,000 people attend the multiple-week event. Individual session tickets go on sale the preceding January.
Charleston Battery
The professional USL Pro soccer team Charleston Battery (843/971-4625, www.charlestonbattery.com, about $10) play April-July at Blackbaud Stadium (1990 Daniel Island Dr.) on Daniel Island, north of Charleston. To get here from downtown, take I-26 north and then I-526 to Mount Pleasant. Take exit 23A, Clements Ferry Road, and then a left onto St. Thomas Island Drive. Blackbaud Stadium is about one mile along on the left.
South Carolina Stingrays
The ECHL professional hockey team the South Carolina Stingrays (843/744-2248, www.stingrayshockey.com, $15) get a good crowd out to their rink at the North Charleston Coliseum (5001 Coliseum Dr., North Charleston), playing October-April.
Citadel Bulldogs
The Citadel (171 Moultrie St., 843/953-3294, www.citadelsports.com) plays Southern Conference football home games at Johnson-Hagood Stadium, next to the campus on the Ashley River near Hampton Park. The basketball team plays home games at McAlister Field House on campus. The school’s hockey team skates home games at the Carolina Ice Palace (7665 Northwoods Blvd., North Charleston).
Accommodations
As one of the country’s key national and international destination cities, Charleston has a very well developed infrastructure for housing visitors—a task made much easier by the city’s longstanding tradition of hospitality. Because the bar is set so high, few visitors experience a truly bad stay in town. Hotels and bed-and-breakfasts are generally well maintained and have a high level of service, ranging from very good to excellent. There’s a 12.5 percent tax on hotel rooms in Charleston.
SOUTH OF BROAD
$150-300
On the south side of Broad Street is a great old Charleston lodging, S Governor’s House Inn (117 Broad St., 843/720-2070, www.governorshouse.com, $285-585). This circa-1760 building, a National Historic Landmark, is associated with Edward Rutledge, signer of the Declaration of Independence. Though most of its 11 guest rooms—all with four-poster beds, period furnishings, and high ceilings—go for around $300, some of the smaller guest rooms can be had for closer to $200 in the off-season.
The nine guest rooms of S Two Meeting Street Inn (2 Meeting St., 843/723-7322, www.twomeetingstreet.com, $220-435) down by the Battery are individually appointed, with themes like “The Music Room” and the “The Spell Room.” The decor in this 1892 Queen Anne bed-and-breakfast is very traditional, with lots of floral patterns and hunt club-style pieces and artwork. It’s considered by many to be the most romantic lodging in town, and you won’t soon forget the experience of sitting on the veranda enjoying the sights, sounds, and breezes. Three of the guest rooms—the Canton, Granite, and Roberts—can be had for not much over $200.
WATERFRONT AND FRENCH QUARTER
$150-300
About as close to the Cooper River as a hotel gets, the Harbourview Inn (2 Vendue Range, 843/853-8439, www.harbourviewcharleston.com, $259) comprises a “historic wing” and a larger, newer, but still tastefully done main building. For the best of those eponymous harbor views, try to get a room on the 3rd floor or you might have some obstructions. It’s the little touches that keep guests happy here, with wine, cheese, coffee, tea, and cookies galore and an emphasis on smiling, personalized service. The guest rooms are quite spacious, with big baths and 14-foot ceilings. You can take your complimentary breakfast—good but not great—in your room or eat it on the nice rooftop terrace.
Over $300
The guest rooms and the thoroughly hospitable service are the focus at the nearby S The Vendue (19 Vendue Range, 800/845-7900, www.thevendue.com, $300-450), just off a $5 million renovation and expansion. All guest rooms are sumptuously appointed in a boutique style, with lots of warm, rich fabrics, unique pieces, and high-end bath amenities. That said, the public spaces are cool as well, the renovation being particularly focused on featuring quality art and essentially creating one huge exhibition space. The inn gets a lot of traffic in the evenings because of the popular and hopping Rooftop Bar, which has amazing views.
Another great place in this part of town is the French Quarter Inn (166 Church St., 843/722-1900, www.fqicharleston.com, $350). The decor in the 50 surprisingly spacious guest rooms is suitably high-period French, with low-style non-canopied beds and crisp fresh linens. Many guest rooms feature fireplaces, whirlpool baths, and private balconies. You’re treated to champagne on your arrival, and goodies are available all day, with wine and cheese served every night at 5pm.
NORTH OF BROAD
$150-300
It calls itself a boutique hotel, perhaps because each room is totally different and sumptuously appointed. But the charming S Andrew Pinckney Inn (199 Church St., 843/937-8800, www.andrewpinckneyinn.com, $200-290) is very nearly in a class by itself in Charleston, not only for its great rates but for its casual West Indies-style decor, charming courtyard, gorgeous three-story atrium, and rooftop terrace on which you can enjoy your complimentary (and delicious) breakfast. For the money and the amenities, it’s possibly the single best lodging package in town.
the Andrew Pinckney Inn
If you plan on some serious shopping, you might want to stay right on the city’s main shopping thoroughfare at the Kings Courtyard Inn (198 King St., 866/720-2949, www.kingscourtyardinn.com, $240-270). This 1853 Greek Revival building houses a lot more guest rooms—more than 40—than meets the eye, and it can get a little crowded at times. Still, its charming courtyard and awesome location on King Street are big bonuses, as is the convenient but cramped parking lot right next door (about $12/day, a bargain for this part of town), with free in-and-out privileges.
Although it is a newer building by Charleston standards, the Mills House Hotel (115 Meeting St., 843/577-2400, www.millshouse.com, $285-380) boasts an important pedigree and still tries hard to maintain the old tradition of impeccable Southern service at this historic location. Dating to 1853, the first incarnation was a grand edifice that hosted luminaries such as Robert E. Lee. Through the y
ears, fire and restoration wrought their changes, and the modern version basically dates from an extensive renovation in the 1970s, with another upgrade in 2007. Because of its healthy banquet and event schedule—much of it centering on the very good restaurant and lounge inside—the Mills House isn’t the place to go for peace and quiet. Rather, this Wyndham-affiliated property is where you go to feel the bustle of downtown Charleston and to be conveniently close to its main sightseeing and shopping attractions. Some of the upper floors of this seven-story building offer spectacular views. A particular delight is the courtyard complete with fountain, where you can enjoy a cocktail or coffee.
Over $300
Considered Charleston’s premier hotel, S Charleston Place (205 Meeting St., 843/722-4900, www.charlestonplace.com, $419-590) maintains a surprisingly high level of service and decor considering its massive 440-room size. Now owned by the London-based Orient-Express Hotels, Charleston Place is routinely rated as one of the best hotels in North America by Condé Nast Traveler and other publications. The guest rooms aren’t especially large, but they are well appointed, featuring Italian marble baths, high-speed Internet, and voice messaging—and, of course, there’s a pool available. A series of suite offerings—Junior, Junior Executive, Parlor, and the 800-square-foot Senior—feature enlarged living areas and multiple TVs and phones. A Manager’s Suite on the Private Club level up top comprises 1,200 square feet of total luxury that will set you back at least $1,600 per night. It’s the additional offerings that make Charleston Place closer to a lifestyle decision than a lodging decision. The on-site spa (843/937-8522) offers all kinds of massages, including couples and “mommy to be” sessions. Diners and tipplers have three fine options to choose from: the famous Charleston Grill (843/577-4522, dinner daily from 6pm) for fine dining; the breakfast, lunch, and brunch hot spot Palmetto Cafe (843/722-4900, breakfast daily 6:30am-11am, lunch daily 11:30am-3pm); and the Thoroughbred Club (daily 11am-midnight) for cocktails and afternoon tea.
the prestigious Charleston Place hotel
On the north side of Broad Street, the magnificent S John Rutledge House Inn (116 Broad St., 843/723-7999, www.johnrutledgehouseinn.com, $300-442) is very close to the old South of Broad neighborhood not only in geography but in feel. Known as “America’s most historic inn,” the Rutledge House boasts a fine old pedigree indeed: Built for Constitution signer John Rutledge in 1763, it’s one of only 15 homes belonging to the original signers to survive. George Washington breakfasted here with Mrs. Rutledge in 1791. The interior is stunning: Italian marble fireplaces, original plaster moldings, and masterful ironwork abound in the public spaces. The inn’s 19 guest rooms are divided among the original mansion and two carriage houses. A friendly and knowledgeable concierge will give you all kinds of tips and make reservations for you.
the John Rutledge House Inn
Affiliated with the Kings Courtyard Inn—and right next door, in fact—is the smaller, cozier Fulton Lane Inn (202 King St., 866/720-2940, www.fultonlaneinn.com, $300), with its lobby entrance on tiny Fulton Lane between the two inns. Small, simple guest rooms—some with fireplaces—have comfortable beds and spacious baths. This is the kind of place for active people who plan to spend most of their days out and about but want a cozy place to come back to at night. You mark down your continental breakfast order at night, leave it on your doorknob, and it shows up at the exact time you requested the next morning. Then when you’re ready to shop and walk, just go down the stairs and take the exit right out onto busy King Street. Also nice is the $12-per-day parking with free in-and-out privileges.
UPPER KING AREA
Under $150
Stretching the bounds of the “Upper King” definition, we come to the Ashley Inn (201 Ashley Ave., 843/723-1848, www.charleston-sc-inns.com, $100-125), well northwest of Marion Square, almost in the Citadel area. Although it’s too far to walk from here to most any historic attraction in Charleston, the Ashley Inn does provide free bikes to its guests as well as free off-street parking, a particularly nice touch. It also deserves a special mention not only because of the romantic, well-appointed nature of its six guest rooms, suite, and carriage house but also for its outstanding breakfasts. You get to pick a main dish, such as Carolina sausage pie, stuffed waffles, or cheese blintzes.
$150-300
In a renovated 1924 building overlooking beautiful Marion Square, the Francis Marion Hotel (387 King St., 843/722-0600, www.francismarioncharleston.com, $200-300) offers quality accommodations in the hippest, most bustling area of the peninsula—but be aware that it’s quite a walk down to the Battery from here. The guest rooms are plush and big, though the baths can be cramped. The hotel’s parking garage costs a reasonable $12 per day, with valet parking available until about 8pm. A Starbucks in the lobby pleases many a guest on their way out or in. Most rooms hover around $300, but some are a real steal.
HAMPTON PARK AREA
Under $150
Charleston’s least expensive lodging is also its most unique: the S Not So Hostel (156 Spring St., 843/722-8383, www.notsohostel.com, $21 dorm, $60 private). The already-reasonable prices also include a make-your-own bagel breakfast, off-street parking, bikes, high-speed Internet access in the common room, and even an airport, train, and bus shuttle. The inn actually comprises three 1840s Charleston single houses, all with the obligatory piazzas. (However, unlike some hostels, there’s air-conditioning in all the rooms.) Because the free bike usage makes up for its off-the-beaten-path location, a stay at the Not So Hostel is a fantastic way to enjoy the Holy City on a budget. One caveat: While they offer private rooms in addition to dorm-style accommodations, keep in mind this is still a hostel, despite the Charleston-style hospitality and perks. In other words, if there’s a problem at 3am, you may not be able to get anyone to help you in a hurry.
WEST ASHLEY
$150-300
Looking like Frank Lloyd Wright parachuted into a 300-year-old plantation and got to work, S The Inn at Middleton Place (4290 Ashley River Rd., 843/556-0500, www.theinnatmiddletonplace.com, $215-285) is one of Charleston’s unique lodgings—and not only because it’s on the grounds of the historic and beautiful Middleton Place Plantation. The four connected buildings, comprising over 50 guest rooms, are modern yet deliberately blend in with the forested, neutral-colored surroundings. The spacious guest rooms have that same woodsy minimalism, with excellent fireplaces, spacious Euro-style baths, and huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grounds and the river. Guests also have full access to the rest of the gorgeous Middleton grounds. The only downside is that you’re a lengthy drive from the peninsula and all its attractions, restaurants, and nightlife. But don’t worry about food—the excellent Middleton Place Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner.
ISLE OF PALMS
$150-300
One of the more accessible and enjoyable resort-type stays in the Charleston area is on the Isle of Palms at Wild Dunes Resort (5757 Palm Blvd., 888/778-1876, www.wilddunes.com, $254-320). This is the place to go for relaxing, beach-oriented vacation fun, in either a traditional hotel room, a house, or a villa. Bustling Mount Pleasant is only a couple of minutes away, and Charleston proper not much farther.
FOLLY BEACH
$150-300
The upbeat but still cozy renovation of the Holiday Inn Folly Beach Oceanfront (1 Center St., 843/588-6464, $250-270) has locals raving. If you’re going to stay on Folly Beach, this hotel—with its combination of attentive staff and great oceanfront views—is the place to be.
CAMPING
Charleston County runs a family-friendly, fairly boisterous campground at James Island County Park (871 Riverland Dr., 843/795-7275, www.ccprc.com, $31 tent site, $37 pull-through site). A neat feature here is the $5-per-person round-trip shuttle to the visitors center downtown, Folly Beach Pier, and Folly Beach County Park. The park also has 10 furnished cottages (843/795-4386, $138) for rental, sleeping up to eight people. Reservations are recommended. For more commercial camping in Mount Pleasant, try the KO
A of Mt. Pleasant (3157 U.S. 17 N., 843/849-5177, www.koa.com, from $30 tent sites, from $50 pull-through sites).
Food
If you count the premier food cities in the United States on one hand, Charleston has to be one of the fingers. Its long history of good taste and livability combines with an affluent and sophisticated population to attract some of the brightest chefs and restaurateurs in the country. Kitchens here eschew fickle trends, instead emphasizing quality, professionalism, and, most of all, freshness of ingredients.
In a sort of Southern Zen, the typical Charleston chef seems to take pride in making a melt-in-your-mouth masterpiece out of the culinary commonplace—in not fixing what ain’t broke, as they say down here. (I’ve heard Charleston’s cuisine described as “competent classics,” which also isn’t far off the mark.)
Even Charleston’s bars have great food. So don’t assume you have to make reservations at a formal restaurant to fully enjoy the cuisine here. An entire volume could easily be written about Charleston restaurants, but here’s a baseline from which to start your epicurean odyssey.
SOUTH OF BROAD
