by Jim Morekis
Sea Pines Plantation
This private residential resort development at the extreme west end of the island—the first on Hilton Head and the prototype for every other such development in the country—hosts several attractions that collectively are well worth the $5 per vehicle “road use” fee, which you pay at the main entrance gate.
HARBOUR TOWN
It’s not particularly historic and not all that natural, but Harbour Town is still pretty cool. The dominant element is the squat, colorful Harbour Town Lighthouse Museum (149 Lighthouse Rd., 843/671-2810, www.harbourtownlighthouse.com, daily 10am-dusk, $3), which has never really helped a ship navigate its way near the island. The 90-foot structure was built in 1970 purely to give visitors a little atmosphere, and that it does, as kids especially love climbing the stairs to the top ($2 pp) and looking out over the island’s expanse.
Harbour Town
STONEY-BAYNARD RUINS
The Stoney-Baynard ruins (Plantation Dr., dawn-dusk, free) are what remains of the circa-1790 central building of the old Braddock’s Point Plantation, first owned by patriot and raconteur Captain “Saucy Jack” Stoney and later by the Baynard family. Active during the island’s heyday as a cotton center, the plantation was destroyed after the Civil War. Two other foundations are nearby, one for slave quarters and one whose use is still unknown.
SEA PINES FOREST PRESERVE
The Sea Pines Forest Preserve (175 Greenwood Dr., 843/363-4530, free) is set amid the Sea Pines Plantation golf resort development, but you don’t need a bag of clubs to enjoy this 600-acre preserve, which is built on the site of an old rice plantation (dikes and logging trails are still visible). Here you can ride a horse, fish, or just take a walk on the eight miles of trails (dawn-dusk) and enjoy the natural beauty around you. No bike riding is allowed on the trails, however.
In addition to the Native American shell ring farther north off Squire Pope Road, the Sea Pines Forest Preserve also boasts a shell ring set within a canopy of tall pines. Scientists date the ring itself to about 1450 BC, although human habitation on the island goes as far back as 8000 BC.
Tours and Cruises
Most guided tours on Hilton Head focus on the water. Harbour Town Cruises (843/363-9023, www.vagabondcruise.com, $30-60) offers several sightseeing tours as well as excursions to Daufuskie and Savannah. They also offer a tour on a former America’s Cup racing yacht.
“Dolphin tours” are extremely popular on Hilton Head, and there is no shortage of operators. Dolphin Watch Nature Cruises (843/785-4558, $25 adults, $10 children) departs from Shelter Cove, as does Lowcountry Nature Tours (843/683-0187, www.lowcountrynaturetours.com, $40 adults, $35 children, free under age 3). The Gypsy (843/363-2900, www.bitemybait.com, $15 adults, $7 children) sails out of South Beach Marina, taking you all around peaceful Calibogue Sound. Two dolphin tours are based on Broad Creek, the large body of water that almost bisects the island through the middle. “Captain Jim” runs Island Explorer Tours (843/785-2100, www.dolphintourshiltonhead.com, 2-hour tour $45 pp) from a dock behind the old Oyster Factory on Marshland Road. Not to be outdone, “Captain Dave” leads tours at Dolphin Discoveries (843/681-1911, 2-hour tour $40 adults, $30 under age 13), leaving out of Simmons Landing next to the Broad Creek Marina on Marshland Road. Outside Hilton Head (32 Shelter Cove Ln., 843/686-6996, www.outsidehiltonhead.com) runs a variety of water ecotours and dolphin tours as well as a guided day-trip excursion to Daufuskie, complete with golf cart rental.
There is a notable land-based tour by Gullah Heritage Trail Tours (leaves from Coastal Discovery Museum at Honey Horn, 843/681-7066, www.gullahheritage.com, $32 adults, $15 children) delving into the island’s rich, if poorly preserved, African American history, from slavery through the time of the freedmen.
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
Nightlife
The most high-quality live entertainment on the island is at The Jazz Corner (1000 William Hilton Pkwy., 843/842-8620, www.thejazzcorner.com, dinner daily 6pm-9pm, late-night menu after 9pm, dinner $15-20, cover varies), which brings in the best names in the country to perform in this space in the unlikely setting of a boutique mall, the Village at Wexford. The dinners are actually quite good, but the attraction is definitely the music. Reservations are recommended. Live music starts around 7pm.
For years islanders have jokingly referred to the “Barmuda Triangle,” an area named for the preponderance of bars within walking distance of Sea Pines Circle. While some of the names have changed over the years, the longtime anchor of the Barmuda Triangle is the Tiki Hut (1 S. Forest Beach Dr., 843/785-5126, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, bar until 2am), actually part of the Holiday Inn Oceanfront Hotel at the entrance to Sea Pines. This popular watering hole is the only beachfront bar on the island, which technically makes it the only place you can legally drink alcohol on a Hilton Head beach. Another Barmuda Triangle staple is Hilton Head Brewing Company (7 Greenwood Dr., 843/785-3900, daily 11am-2am), the only brewpub on the island and indeed South Carolina’s first microbrewery since Prohibition. They offer a wide range of handcrafted brews, from a Blueberry Wheat to a Mocha Porter. Another longtime Triangle fave is The Lodge (7 Greenwood Dr., 843/842-8966, www.hiltonheadlodge.com, daily 11:30am-midnight). After the martini and cigar craze waned, this popular spot successfully remade itself into a beer-centric place with 36 rotating taps. They still mix a mean martini, though.
Despite its location in the upscale strip mall of the Village at Wexford, the British Open Pub (1000 William Hilton Pkwy./Hwy. 278, 843/686-6736, daily 11am-10pm) offers a fairly convincing English vibe with, as the name suggests, a heavy golf theme. The fish-and-chips and shepherd’s pie are both magnificent.
Inside Sea Pines is the Quarterdeck Lounge and Patio (843/842-1999, www.seapines.com, Sun.-Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-midnight) at the base of the Harbour Town Lighthouse. This is where the party’s at after a long day on the fairways during the Heritage golf tournament. Within Sea Pines at the South Beach Marina is also where you’ll find The Salty Dog Cafe (232 S. Sea Pines Dr., 843/671-2233, www.saltydog.com, lunch daily 11am-3pm, dinner daily 5pm-10pm, bar daily until 2am), one of the area’s most popular institutions (some might even call it a tourist trap) and something akin to an island empire, with popular T-shirts, a gift shop, books, and an ice cream shop, all overlooking the marina. My suggestion, however, is to make the short walk to the affiliated Wreck of the Salty Dog (843/671-7327, daily until 2am), where the marsh views are better and the atmosphere not quite so tacky.
There’s only one bona fide gay club on Hilton Head, Vibe (32 Palmetto Bay Rd., 843/341-6933, www.vibehhi.com, Mon.-Fri. 8pm-3am, Sat. 8pm-2am). Wednesday is karaoke night, and Thursday brings an amateur drag revue.
Performing Arts
Because so many residents migrated here from art-savvy metropolitan areas in the Northeast, Hilton Head maintains a very high standard of top-quality entertainment. Much of the activity centers on the multimillion-dollar Arts Center of Coastal Carolina (14 Shelter Cove Ln., 843/842-2787, www.artshhi.com), which hosts touring shows, resident companies, musical concerts, dance performances, and visual arts exhibits.
Now over a quarter century old and under the direction of maestro John Morris Russell, the Hilton Head Symphony Orchestra (843/842-2055, www.hhso.org) performs a year-round season of masterworks and pops programs at various venues, primarily the First Presbyterian Church (540 William Hilton Pkwy./Hwy. 278). They also take their show on the road with several concerts in Bluffton and even perform several “Symphony Under the Stars” programs at Shelter Cove. Chamber Music Hilton Head (www.cmhh.org) performs throughout the year with selections ranging from Brahms to Smetana at All Saints Episcopal Church (3001 Meeting St.).
Cinema
There’s an art house on Hilton Head, the charming Coligny Theatre (843/686-3500, www.colignytheatre.com) in the Coligny Plaza shopping center before you get to Sea Pines. For years this was the only movie theater for miles around, but it has reincarnated as a prima
rily indie film venue. Look for the entertaining murals by local artist Ralph Sutton. Showtimes are Monday 11:30am and 4pm, Tuesday and Friday 11:30am, 4pm, and 7pm, Wednesday-Thursday and Saturday-Sunday 4pm and 7pm.
Festivals and Events
Late February-early March brings the Hilton Head Wine and Food Festival (www.hiltonheadhospitality.org), culminating in what they call “The East Coast’s Largest Outdoor Public Tasting and Auction,” which is generally held at the Coastal Discovery Museum at Honey Horn. Some events charge admission.
Hilton Head’s premier event is the RBC Heritage Classic Golf Tournament (843/671-2248, http://theheritagegolfsc.com), held each April (usually the week after the Masters) at the Harbour Town Golf Links on Sea Pines Plantation. Formerly known as the Verizon Heritage Classic, the event is South Carolina’s only PGA Tour event and brings thousands of visitors to town.
A fun and fondly anticipated yearly event is the Kiwanis Club Chili Cookoff (www.hiltonheadkiwanis.org), held each October at Honey Horn on the island’s south end. A low admission price gets you all the chili you can eat plus free antacids. All funds go to charity, and all excess chili goes to a local food bank.
Every November brings Hilton Head’s second-largest event, the Hilton Head Concours d’Elegance & Motoring Festival (www.hhiconcours.com), a multiday event bringing together vintage car clubs from throughout the nation and culminating in a prestigious “Best of Show” competition. It started as a fund-raiser for the Hilton Head Symphony, but now people come from all over the country to see these fine vintage cars in a beautiful setting.
SHOPPING
As you’d expect, Hilton Head is a shopper’s delight, with an emphasis on upscale stores and prices to match. Keep in mind that hours may be shortened in the off-season (Nov.-Mar.). Here’s a rundown of the main island shopping areas in the order you’ll encounter them as you enter the island.
Shelter Cove
Shelter Cove Towne Centre (40 Shelter Cove Ln., www.sheltercovetownecentre) is anchored by a Kroger and a Belk store, while steadily adding new retail outlets. The nearby Plaza at Shelter Cove (50 Shelter Cove Ln., theplazaatsheltercove.com) features a Whole Foods and the flagship location of Outside Hilton Head (843/686-6996, www.outsidehiltonhead.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-5:30pm, Sun. 11am-5:30pm), a complete outdoor outfitter with a knowledgeable staff.
Village at Wexford
Easily my favorite place to shop on Hilton Head, this well-shaded shopping center on William Hilton Parkway (Hwy. 278) hosts plenty of well-tended shops, including the foodie equipment store Le Cookery (843/785-7171, Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm), the Lily Pulitzer signature women’s store S. M. Bradford Co. (843/686-6161, Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm), and the aromatic Scents of Hilton Head (843/842-7866, Mon.-Fri. 10am-6pm, Sat. 10am-5pm).
My favorite shop on all Hilton Head is at Wexford, The Oilerie (843/681-2722, www.oilerie.com, Mon.-Sat. 10am-7pm, Sun. noon-5pm). This franchise provides free samples of all its high-quality Italian olive oils and vinegars. After you taste around awhile, you pick what you want and the friendly staff bottles it for you in souvenir-quality glassware. They also have a selection of spices, soaps, and other goodies.
Coligny Plaza
This is the closest Hilton Head comes to funkier beach towns like Tybee Island or Folly Beach, although it doesn’t really come that close. You’ll find dozens of delightful and somewhat quirky stores here, many keeping long hours in the summer, like the self-explanatory Coligny Kite & Flag Co. (843/785-5483, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-6pm), the comprehensive and stylish Quiet Storm Surf Shop (843/671-2551), and Fresh Produce (843/842-3410, www.freshproduceclothes.com), actually a very cute women’s clothing store. Kids will love both The Shell Shop (843/785-4900, Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. noon-9pm) and Black Market Minerals (843/785-7090, Mon.-Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 11am-8pm).
Harbour Town
The Shoppes at Harbour Town (www.seapines.com) are a collection of about 20 mostly boutique stores along Lighthouse Road in Sea Pines Plantation. At Planet Hilton Head (843/363-5177, www.planethiltonhead.com, daily 10am-9pm) you’ll find some cute, eclectic gifts and home goods. Clothing highlights include Knickers Men’s Store (843/671-2291, daily 10am-9pm) and Radiance (843/363-5176, Mon.-Tues. 10am-5pm, Wed.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-9pm), a very cute and fashion-forward women’s store.
The Top of the Lighthouse Shoppe (843/671-2810, www.harbourtownlighthouse.com, daily 10am-9pm) is where many a climbing visitor has been coaxed to part with some of their disposable income. And, of course, as you’d expect being near the legendary Harbour Town links, there’s the Harbour Town Pro Shop (843/671-4485), routinely voted one of the best pro shops in the nation.
South Beach Marina
On South Sea Pines Drive at the marina you’ll find several worthwhile shops, including a good ship’s store and all-around grocery dealer South Beach General Store (843/671-6784, daily 8am-10pm). I like to stop in Blue Water Bait and Tackle (843/671-3060, daily 7am-8pm) and check out the cool nautical stuff. They can also hook you up with a variety of kayak trips and fishing charters. And, of course, right on the water there’s the ever-popular Salty Dog Cafe (843/671-2233, www.saltydog.com, lunch daily 11am-3pm, dinner daily 5pm-10pm), whose ubiquitous T-shirts seem to adorn every other person on the island.
Art Galleries
Despite the abundant wealth apparent in some quarters here, there’s no freestanding art museum in the area, that role being filled by independent galleries.
A good representative example is Morris & Whiteside Galleries (220 Cordillo Pkwy., 843/842-4433, www.morris-whiteside.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm, Sat. 10am-4pm), located in the historic Red Piano Art Gallery building, which features a variety of paintings and sculpture, heavy on landscapes but also showing some fine figurative work.
The nonprofit Art League of Hilton Head (14 Shelter Cove Ln., 843/681-5060, Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm) is located in the Walter Greer Art Gallery within the Arts Center of Coastal Carolina and displays work by member artists in all media.
The Nash Gallery (13 Harbourside Ln., 843/785-6424, Mon.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-8pm, Sun. 11am-5pm) in Shelter Cove Harbour deals more in North American craft styles.
Hilton Head art isn’t exactly known for its avant-garde nature, but you can find some whimsical stuff at Picture This (78D Arrow Rd., 843/842-5299, Mon.-Fri. 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat. 9:30am-12:30pm), including a selection of Gullah craft items.
A wide range of regional painters, sculptors, and glass artists is featured at Endangered Arts (841 William Hilton Pkwy., 843/785-5075, www.endangeredarts.com).
SPORTS AND RECREATION
Beaches
First, the good news: Hilton Head Island has 12 miles of some of the most beautiful, safe beaches you’ll find anywhere. The bad news is that there are only a few ways to gain access, generally at locations referred to as “beach parks.” Don’t just drive into a residential neighborhood and think you’ll be able to park and find your way to the beach; for better or worse, Hilton Head is not set up for that kind of casual access.
Driessen Beach Park has 207 long-term parking spaces, costing $0.25 for 30 minutes. There’s free parking but fewer spaces at the Coligny Beach Park entrance and at Fish Haul Creek Park. Also, there are 22 metered spaces at Alder Lane Beach Access, 51 at Folly Field Beach Park, and 13 at Burkes Beach Road. Most other beach parks have permit parking only.
Clean, well-maintained public restrooms are available at all the beach parks. You can find beach information at 843/342-4580 and www.hiltonheadislandsc.gov. Beach park hours vary: Coligny Beach Park is open daily 24 hours; all other beach parks are open March-September daily 6am-8pm and October-February daily 6am-5pm.
Alcohol is strictly prohibited on Hilton Head’s beaches. There are lifeguards on all the beaches during the summer, but be aware that the worst undertow is on the northern stretches. Also remember to leave the sand dollars where they are; their population is dwindling due to souvenir hunting.
Kayaking
Kayakers will enjoy Hilton Head Island, which o
ffers several gorgeous routes, including Calibogue Sound to the south and west and Port Royal Sound to the north. For particularly good views of life on the salt marsh, try Broad Creek, which nearly bisects Hilton Head Island, and Skull Creek, which separates Hilton Head from the natural beauty of Pinckney Island. Broad Creek Marina is a good place to put in. There are also two public landings, Haigh Landing and Buckingham Landing, on Mackay Creek at the entrance to the island, one on either side of the bridge.
If you want a guided tour, there are plenty of great kayak tour outfits to choose from in the area. Chief among them is Outside Hilton Head (32 Shelter Cove Ln., 800/686-6996, www.outsidehiltonhead.com). They offer a wide range of guided trips, including “The Outback,” in which you’re first boated to a private island and then taken on a tour of tidal creeks, and five- or seven-hour “Ultimate Lowcountry Day” trips to Daufuskie, Bluffton, or Bull Creek. Other good places to book a tour or just rent a kayak are Water-Dog Outfitters (Broad Creek Marina, 843/686-3554) and Kayak Hilton Head (Broad Creek Marina, 843/684-1910). Leaving out of the Harbour Town Yacht Basin is H2O Sports (843/671-4386, www.h2osportsonline.com), which offers 90-minute guided kayak tours ($30) and rents kayaks for about $20 per hour. Within Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort (4 Queens Folly Rd., 800/827-3006, www.palmettodunes.com) is Palmetto Dunes Outfitters (843/785-2449, www.pdoutfitters.com, daily 9am-5pm), which rents kayaks and canoes and offers lessons on the resort’s 11-mile-long lagoon.
