Caffeine and, Well, Water
Perhaps one the most dramatic tributes to the rising interest in caffeine is the introduction of the drink Water Joe by Johnny Beverage Inc. in 1996. Touted as “the leading caffeine-enhanced water,” Water Joe is a no-frills product for people who don’t want any chlorine, calories, sugar, or artificial flavorings, but do want pure artesian well water laced with a generous dose of caffeine. Among Water Joe’s promotional suggestions: Make your morning coffee with Water Joe for an extra boost. One large group of potential Water Joe drinkers comprises athletes or dieters who want the boost of caffeine but know they must be careful to compensate for the dehydration that it can induce. But perhaps Water Joe’s biggest market is among those who don’t like coffee but still crave the lift it provides. David Marcheschi, president of Chicago-based Johnny Beverage, was among their number. Explaining that he thought up the idea for caffeinated water while in college, he recalls, “I didn’t like coffee or colas, but I still needed to study.”
How much caffeine does a bottle of Water Joe contain? The advertising says as much as one cup of coffee. This specification doesn’t really tell us very much, and the product label doesn’t add any information. The dose claimed by some of the press coverage is 70 mg of caffeine added to a half-liter, 16.9-ounce, bottle. There is no question that Water Joe lives up to its claims not to contain any calories, sugars, or preservatives and not to stain teeth, but does it “taste just like water,” as the company’s promotional literature suggests? Johnny Beverage claims that it relies on a method developed by a flavor chemist to mask caffeine’s usually bitter taste. However, company officials refused to discuss this claim with us in any way. Our informal taste test found people about evenly divided among those who tasted only pure spring water and those who detected a faint flavor, which we attribute to the presence of caffeine.
Mixing Your Drinks: Caffeine and Alcohol
In 1995 Starbucks Coffee Company, with more than 650 retail operations, joined forces with Redhook Ale Brewery to create Double Black Stout, dark roasted malt beer targeted at specialty coffee and beer drinkers alike. Redhook president and CEO Paul Shipman says that the idea for the new brew came up in an impromptu conversation over a cup of coffee. The final product is the result of diligent testing and blend-ing of test brews. According to the companies’ public relations people, the brewers and coffee specialists experienced an amazing synergy, because “the similarities of brewing fine beer and roasting fine coffee were an inspiration to the whole group and resulted in a brew that showcases the best of both products.” After primary fermentation of the stout, Redhook adds brewed Starbucks coffee to the beer. The resulting mix is supposed to combine the full, roasted flavor of stout with the aroma and flavor of arabica coffee. Starbucks coffee specialists have chosen a blend of Central American coffees for the beer, which is said to deliver “remarkable rich, roasted coffee notes to Double Black Stout.”
Carbonated Coffee
North American Coffee Partnership, the joint venture formed in August 1995 by Pepsi-Cola and Starbucks, test marketed a new product: Mazagran, a lightly carbonated beverage made with Starbucks coffee. Touted as a new version of a 150year-old beverage supposedly once popular with the French Foreign Legion, it will be sold at Starbucks fountains and in bottles in grocery stores.
Another similar product, also by PepsiCo, hit U.S. grocers’ shelves in mid-1996: Pepsi-Kona, a coffee-flavored carbonated cola drink, so soda and coffee lovers can finally have it both ways. A new mixed drink called a “Turbo Coke” seems in line with this product: a tall glass of Coke with ice and a shot of espresso.
The Coffee Shop Connection—Keeping Them off the Streets
Holland is one of the few European countries that never experienced a movement to ban coffee or tea. Carrying on this tradition of tolerance, today in the Netherlands, where the use and possession of small amounts of marijuana is not customarily subjected to legal sanctions, young and old flock to establishments euphemistically known as “coffee shops” to buy and smoke marijuana while they sit around sipping their favorite caffeinated drink. There are examples of small communities where the civic leaders have applied for and received funding from the national government to support the establishment of such coffee shops intended to provide teenagers with a salubrious place to hang out and get high.
Caffeine Currents: From Coffee to Tea?
In 1996, reports began circulating in the press about a new enthusiasm for specialty teas, following the success of the specialty coffee trend, although, in one reporter’s words, it “hasn’t taken off with the fervor of a caffeine buzz.” In Seattle and Portland, two of the cities to initiate the coffeehouse revival in the United States, the use of tea is on the rise. Even the British tea garden and Japanese teahouse are undergoing new incarnations, as teahouses open for business in markets heavily saturated with more traditionally American cafés.
What is the motivation for the switch from coffee to tea? Partly it’s the social connotations. The partisans of tea associate it with leisurely conversation and relaxation as opposed to their more frenetic associations with coffee. Partly it’s a matter of the taste. Some people like caffeine but just don’t like the taste of coffee. Steve Smith, founder of Tazo Teas, produces bottles of what he calls “microbrewed” teas. He also runs several tea bars in specialty supermarkets and at universities such as Harvard and Portland State.
Is the tea trend here to stay? We can’t say for sure, but one sign of the times is the fact that even Starbucks now sells a half-dozen varieties of tea.
Kopi Luak Coffee: Waste Not, Want Not
If you think that Jamaica Blue Mountain is the scarcest and costliest coffee, you are unfamiliar with Kopi Luak.
Coffee’s propagation in Africa, India, and Indonesia and the harvesting of the world’s rarest and most expensive beans are intimately linked with the dietary and excretory habits of a certain curious animal called the civet cat. In Krapf ‘s nineteenthcentury account of his missionary work in Africa, he states, without elaboration, that the civet cat may have been responsible for introducing the coffee plant into the Ethiopian highlands from central Africa:
According to the Arabian tradition, the civet-cat brought the coffee-bean to the mountains of the Arusi and the Itta-Gallas, where it grew and was long cultivated, till an enterprising merchant carried the coffee-plant five hundred years ago, to Arabia, where it soon became acclimatized.6
Supposedly, the beans emerge still covered with their original mucilage or silver skin. In 1740 Spanish Jesuits brought coffee seedlings from Java to the Philippines, where the plant proliferated dramatically, largely as a result of the dietary preferences of the native civet cat, which, like the African civet cat spoken of by Krapf, enjoyed the fruit and spread the indigestible seeds in its droppings.7
The animal in question is one of the three species of palm civets in the genus Paradoxurus, the family Viverridae. Its relatives include mongooses, civets, and genets. Two of the three species are confined to India and Sri Lanka, while the third, Paradoxurus hermaphroditus, is found throughout Southeast Asia, the East Indies, the Philippines, and Africa. Other names for the animal include “musang,” and “toddy cat.”
Despite some of its many aliases, however, Paradoxurus is not a true cat. These cute animals, with catlike faces, have long gray-brown fur with dorsal stripes and lateral spots and a long tail. They live five or more years, are about one and a half to two and a half feet long, and weigh six or seven pounds. Although they feed on small animals they also eat bulbs, nuts, and fruits, which is how they enter the history of coffee.
Other animals play a part in spreading coffee as well. In 1922, William Ukers reported that in some regions of India, birds and monkeys enjoy eating the ripe coffee berries because of their tasty pulp. The beans, however, pass undigested through their alimentary canals. Gathered by the natives, these beans are recycled to make so-called monkey coffee.8 In Coffee Botany, Cultivation, and Utilization (1961), Frederi
ck L. Wellman offers an account of varied relationships between animals and the proliferation of the coffee plant, giving birds the credit of spreading coffee within Africa, from Ethiopia into the Sudan, and the civet cat for doing so in Hawaii.9
In 1994, after a thirteen-year search, Mark Montanous, while in Europe, finally found a Dutch coffee broker who had what he claimed were the raw, green Indonesian kopi luak beans. Montanous bought 70 pounds for $7,000 and now is retailing it virtually at cost at $105 a pound, making it easily the most expensive coffee in the world.
Is it worth it? We are told that this coffee is not to everyone’s taste. Even though some people claim it has a delightful heavy, musty, caramel taste and aroma, others find it strong and repellent. So far, Montanous has sold about 45 pounds, with a few repeat (apparently satisfied) customers.
When Caffeine-Free Is Definitely Better for Your Health
The first detailed intensive study of water quality of the Mississippi River was released in 1996 by the U.S. Geological Survey, Department of the Interior. Thousands of samples were collected for this study from 1987 through 1992, during ten separate sampling trips that were timed to show the effects of high water, low water, rising water levels, and falling water levels. Several years of subsequent laboratory analysis produced the results. Geological Survey chief hydrologist Bob Hirsch commented on the significance of the study: “The contaminants we measure in the Mississippi represent a report card on our clean-up efforts on the streams and rivers that drain nearly half the country.”
Not surprisingly, the scientists checked for levels of such contaminants as lead and detergents. They also checked for, and discovered, caffeine. Because in this region caffeine is found only in coffee, tea, chocolate, and soft drinks consumed only by humans, when it is found in domestic sewage it can be used to track the extent to which that sewage is diluted by the Mississippi River. Concentrations of caffeine in the river indicate that domestic sewage may be diluted as much as a thousandfold. Whether this is an acceptable level is a question best left to ecological experts, but it seems clear that caffeine-free river, lake, or spring water is definitely the least hazardous to your health.10
When Is Caffeine Not Caffeine?
Misinformation about caffeine abounds today, even as it did in the days of Simon Pauli and Buntekuh. Herbal remedy sales representatives take advantage of a generalized concern about caffeine to help push “alternative” products, for which they promise the same or greater benefits. Unfortunately for the unwary, the active ingredient in many of these nostrums is either caffeine or caffeine compounded, potentially dangerously, with ephedrine, which is sometime referred to as “ma-huang,” the Chinese herb from which it is derived. The following ad on the Internet for EXTRA BOOST was particularly amusing because it touts a guarana-based supplement as a medicine to reduce “cravings for caffeine,” a claim which is certainly true, because one of its active ingredients is caffeine.
For anyone imagining that EXTRA BOOST is a magical new remedy, the letdown comes quickly, as soon as the two active ingredients are described:
Guarana:
This is a plant that grows in the northern and western portions of Brazil. Reportedly, its seeds have been used for centuries by the natives of the Amazon for added energy and mental alertness.
Mahuang:
Imported from China, this plant, according to the Chinese, reduces the desire for food, metabolizes fat, increases energy and mental alertness.
Another ad, this time for guarana capsules, is more accurate, declaring, “Guarana is a caffeine-rich extract that, in addition to 2–3 times the caffeine found in coffee, also contains xanthine compounds such as theobromine and theophylline. Made into a popular Brazilian cola drink, guarana is consumed for energy and stimulation. Guarana has also been used traditionally as an anti-diuretic, a nerve tonic, to reduce hunger, and to relieve headaches, migraines and PMS symptoms.”
From Cyberspace to Outerspace to a Pretty Face: Caffeine on the Internet and Beyond
A cybercafé is a coffeehouse in cyberspace. That is, it is a coffeehouse without a house and without coffee. So in what sense is it a coffeehouse at all? In the sense that the coffeehouse serves as a universal symbol for a forum in which friendly strangers, often gathered from the fringes of society, can convene to discuss art, politics, science, or almost any other subject matter. That is what the coffeehouse was in the lands of its inception, the cities, villages, and travelers’ inns of the Middle East in the sixteenth century. That is what it was in England in the seventeenth century, in Greenwich Village in the 1950s, in Seattle in the 1980s, and that is what it is in cyberspace as we enter the third millennium. At the traditional coffeehouse people sit at little tables, sip coffee, read the news, and meet and talk face to face. At the cybercafé, there are little monitors and keyboards, at which people sit, sip coffee, search the web and chat with people around the world. Thus the cybercafé carries forward the tradition of coffee-house conversation into the twenty-first century.
The notion of the “extended café” that the cybercafé embodies is not as unprecedented as it may appear at first. Since at least the nineteenth century, the word “café,” which simply means “coffee” in French, has been used worldwide to designate establishments that serve alcohol or absinthe and light food, occasionally featuring musical performers, and only incidentally serving coffee. It also designates a small, plain or fancy, informal restaurant. For whatever reasons, the word “coffee” has come to signify public places for gathering to drink, talk, eat, or be entertained. Rather than diminishing our estimate of caffeine’s importance, this linguistic generalization suggests that caffeine’s social significance is both deep and broad.
What do a design studio in Atlanta, a poetry magazine in San Francisco, a software module for Apple computers, and a new multiplayer Internet game have in common? They all go by the name “caffeine.” Suddenly caffeine, not just its vehicles coffee and tea, is on everyone’s tongue. A network magazine supporting proprietary online services recently issued a list of the Best of the Web. One category, including about a dozen sites, most of which feature high-tech products, was “Coffee and Caffeine.” A Canadian food information bureau uses the acronym CAFFEINE for its home page. Another example of its acronymic use is Computer Aided Fast Fabrication Exploration in Engineering, an Internet site hailing from Berkeley.
Perhaps it is because of the profile of caffeine’s cognitive effects, its power to increase alertness, speed, diligence, and retention, especially in repetitive tasks, that computer people are among the leading caffeine consumers in America. Or perhaps it’s just that they get weary from long hours writing and using software. Whatever the reason, the link between computer work and caffeine is pretty much taken for granted as a fact of popular culture. For example, in a 1996 news article, “What computer users really want in a keyboard,” Joe Fasbinder, a UPI reporter, describes a computer keyboard with a special feature aimed at caffeine users: “if you spill any ‘computer-programmer’ fluids (i.e., anything with caffeine in it), you can simply keep typing, or take the thing to the kitchen sink, run some water over it and let it dry out.”
In the roiling seas of the Internet it’s difficult for one person to make a big splash. One man who is trying is Shannon Wheeler. He has dedicated himself to creating and disseminating comic books, T-shirts, and other pop culture paraphernalia celebrating the culture of caffeine and the adventures of a character with a large coffee cup permanently affixed to the top of his head, called simply the “Too Much Coffee Man.” Another Internet caffeine promoter, Robert Therrien, or BADBOB, as he calls himself, is a former student at Antioch, a caffeine aficionado, Internet maven, cartoonist, and something of a versifier. In his cartoons he cries out with existential angst over the cognitive, emotional, and social dissonances that ripple outward from the caffeine habitué.11
An effort to use caffeine to promote products is found in a 1995 Working Woman article on new skin creams.12 The article features informatio
n on Clinique’s Moisture On-Call, ($30/1.7 oz), a product that, according to Shirley Weinstein, Clinique’s vice president of product development, “uses caffeine to catalyze the production of lipids, substances that keep the skin moist and unlined, at the basal-cell layer. Results begin to show in about a month, the amount of time it takes cells to move from the bottom of the epidermis to its surface.” Weinstein referred our inquiries to the company’s public relations department, which left us a message to the effect that Clinique did not “participate in books.” And so we have no information about how caffeine gets the lipid-producing juices flowing.
A news story from China illustrates how caffeine there is placed in the same category as the West places dangerous narcotics. It was reported by the Heilongjiang Daily, dateline Beijing, March 29, 1995, that police in northern China arrested a ring of seventeen caffeine dealers who were attempting to close a deal to sell a large quantity of caffeine pills. Like opium and other psychoactive drugs, caffeine is a controlled substance in China. Police seized 85 pounds of caffeine and more than one million caffeine pills, with a reputed street value of several hundred thousand dollars. The ring had illegally diverted the caffeine from a pharmaceutical shipment en route from Beijing.13
The World of Caffeine Page 31
