Rosalyn
Jax’s truck pulled into the driveway. He was back from Oregon. Full of enthusiasm, he sprinted into the house, scooped me up into his arms, and swung me around the small kitchen.
“I missed you,” he said. His mouth was on mine, and I was lost in the passion of our kiss when Eugene emerged from the bedroom where he’d been practicing guitar.
“Um, mom?” Eugene said. Eugene’s face turned red, his eyes downcast. He glanced shyly at Jax and me.
Jax set me down, and I ran my fingers through my hair. “Eugene, honey, set the table.”
Jax ruffled Eugene’s hair. “I’ll help you.”
We dug into our vegetarian feast, and Jax told us all about his trip to Twentynine Palms. “I made another quick trip,” he said. “I saw your grandparents today.”
“Grandparents?”
I touched Eugene’s hand and looked into his eyes. “Jax thought it would be a good idea to meet them, seeing as we’re all together now. Thing of it is, sweetie, my parents have never been much a part of my life.”
“Why not?” Eugene said.
“They just like to keep to themselves.”
Eugene toyed with his spoon, finally setting it down. “They live in Oregon? That’s so close. Do I get to meet them?”
I wasn’t thrilled at the prospect. “Maybe.”
Eugene asked Jax, “Why’d you go out there?”
Jax wiped his mouth with his napkin. “Because they’re family.”
I fiddled with the stem of a wineglass that held my vegetable juice. I reached for Eugene’s hand. “Thing of it is, we’re not that close.”
Eugene picked up his spoon. “What are they like?”
Jax said, “They’re fun. They’ve got these really cool rottweilers. And they live on a …”
Fun? I kicked Jax under the table. Oh, what the hell, may as well tell him. “They run a medicinal marijuana farm,” I said.
Eugene’s eyes were wide. “Can I see it?”
Damn it, why had Jax insisted on going out there? All these years it had been just Eugene and me, and we’d been fine. I smiled at Eugene. “Maybe.”
Then Jax made an announcement. “I’ve been thinking. I think we deserve a getaway. I know of a great bed and breakfast out in Half Moon Bay. What do you say we treat ourselves?”
I touched Jax’s arm. “Really? Can we afford this?”
“It’s just for the weekend. Sure we can.”
Eugene and I weren’t used to doing anything other than hanging around Santa Cruz. Again, I was struck by how hard Jax was trying to create a family life for the three of us. I said, “That sounds like a terrific idea.”
“Can Nelson come with us?” Eugene asked.
“If his mom says it’s okay,” I said.
What we weren’t counting on was that the trip would turn out to be a two-fold vacation.
Jax
“Linda Mar? Why do you want to surf there?” I asked Butch.
“Because I’m driving to San Francisco to see Summer, and it’s right there,” he said.
Linda Mar was a picturesque surf spot right on the Pacific Coast Highway in Pacific State Beach, just north of Half Moon Bay, and indeed, it was only thirty minutes from San Francisco.
“But it’s kind of a beginner’s spot,” I said.
“Who cares? They’ve got the best Taco Bell.”
That they did. The place was sometimes called Taco Bell Beach because of the wooden Taco Bell that was built right in the parking lot overlooking the surfing beach. It was the only Taco Bell I knew of that had an ocean view on one side and a mountain view on the other.
“Since when did you get frequent flier miles at Taco Bell?” I said.
“Since … just meet me there will you?” he said.
“How’s your shoulder?” I asked.
“Almost good as new.”
I missed my friend. “When do you want to meet?”
“I’m heading out at dawn tomorrow. I’ll call you when I’m almost there.”
It was almost an eight-hour drive without traffic.
“Is Summer putting you up?”
“Staying at a hotel, but you never know. She may not be able to resist my jokes and my body. She may not let me up for air.”
I laughed. “In your vivid imagination.”
We met at Linda Mar midafternoon the next day. When I saw Butch, something about him looked different. I scratched my head. “What’ve you been doing? Spa treatments?”
His smile was broad. “Is it that obvious? Mr. Priest, I am happy to announce that I am in love!”
He danced a little jig and grabbed his board out of the back of his truck.
“Did you bring it?” I asked.
“Here it is.” He reached in the backseat and removed the painting that Rosalyn and I had stolen from the abandoned house in Sunset Cliffs all those years ago. “Enjoy.”
We waxed our boards while checking out the surf. It was small that day, not too crowded since it was a weekday, and there were lulls in between the sets. We walked past the Taco Bell, and a flock of seagulls who’d been begging for handouts from the diners scattered.
We paddled out to the lineup, the cool air filling our nostrils, the salt water hitting our faces, as we moved over small waves. Sitting on our boards, we scanned the horizon for the next set.
“Pretty mellow out here today,” I said.
Butch glanced at me. “Okay by me.”
“Looks like Mavs might be breaking in the next few days. You interested? Or are you all wrapped up in that cute doctor?”
Butch scooped up some ocean water in his hands and threw it my way while I shielded my face. “Don’t be making fun of that cute doctor.”
“What’s up, buddy?” I said.
“Nothing.”
“Don’t lie.”
Butch turned his face away, his hair blowing in the breeze. “Can’t believe what happened to you at Todos.”
“You would know.”
“Yeah, I do know. And it changed my life,” he said.
A set of waves came our way, and I let Butch have the first one. I caught the next. They were small, no more than three- to four-foot waves, but I didn’t care. Being in the ocean was the only thing that mattered. I paddled back to Butch, and we sat in the lineup again, the kelp swaying under our feet.
“Since what happened at Mavs, I’ve had time to think,” Butch said.
“About what?”
“That was such a gnarly day.”
I could still feel the adrenaline surging through my system from seeing Butch throwing up foamy blood, still picture his wetsuit dangling at the knee from where his prosthetic had been ripped free by the powerful force of the wave.
Butch said, “When we paddled out that day, I was just charging. I thought, man this is the only life for me. I’m going to charge big waves until the day I die. But then after what happened and after meeting Summer …”
“What are you trying to say?”
Butch focused his gaze on me. “What if we don’t survive one of these wipeouts?”
“What if we don’t?” I was not ready to talk about my near-death experience. It was way too personal.
He made small circles in the water with his hand. “Don’t you ever think about what life would be like if we couldn’t do this anymore?”
“Do what, surf?”
“Well, maybe not surf, but surf big waves.”
“No, I don’t ever think about that.”
“Well, I have been thinking that. Ever since what happened at Mavs.”
“You going soft on me?”
“It’s not going soft.” His face clouded over, and he looked away. “I’ve been lucky. Lucky to surf with one leg, climb Kilimanjaro, run distance races, have the shop … and lately I’ve been wondering if there’s more.”
“More, like what?”
We were interrupted again by a sweet set of waves coming through. Butch took the first, and I took the second, keeping an eye o
n my friend from my vantage point of cruising down this perfect small wave on my longboard. I thought about how miraculous it was that I was actually standing on a piece of foam and fiberglass, riding in harmony with the ocean. We paddled back out to the lineup.
“How are things going with Rosalyn and Eugene?” Butch said.
I smiled. “Promise you won’t call me a candy ass?”
“Promise.”
“Being with Rosalyn is hands down the best thing that’s ever happened to me. It’s even better than what it was when we were together before. And Eugene, sometimes I still can’t get over it. I mean, just a few months ago I was in a way different place, and now I’ve got the woman I love and a kid to boot.”
“What’s it like being a dad?”
“Can’t really say yet. It’s more like he’s a friend. Still can’t believe how much he reminds me of Tyler.” I looked at Butch. “Eugene is awesome. He’s talented—wait until you hear him play guitar—he’s polite, and I’d say he’s been pretty darn accommodating given the situation.” My eyes misted over. “Having a son is the best gift. Finding out about Eugene’s been like winning the lottery. No, better.”
Butch said, “That’s great.” He scooped water into his hands and threw it my way. “And what’s it like between the sheets with Rosalyn?”
I smiled a broad smile. “Freakin’ awesome. But that was always great between us.”
Butch was silent for a moment then asked. “How’s her health?”
I didn’t want to think about that. “One day at a time, buddy. One day at a time.”
Butch said, “That’s what I was trying to tell you before. Jax, there’s more to life. More, like what you have with Rosalyn and Eugene.”
I paddled my hands in the water and considered. “I hear you. But what’s that got to do with surfing?”
“You need to be here to take care of those two.”
“I will be. Rosalyn and Eugene are my life. But surfing big waves is a huge part of who I am.”
Even after what happened to me at Todos Santos, I was not about to give up big wave surfing. If anything, I felt more at one with the ocean. Before my near-death experience, the ocean was always my spiritual retreat, but now, my senses were keener and sharper. For me, the ocean, which had always felt alive, now pulsed with life, colors, sound, and vibrations. I couldn’t wait to wake up every day and paddle out. Fear wasn’t even in the equation.
“So, what are you saying? That you can’t function without this obsession?” he said.
I looked at my friend. “Are you quitting?”
“I’m not saying that. Just saying I need some time off before I paddle out into the big stuff. I’m going for it with Summer. And maybe one day I’ll get to know what it’s like to have kids. I want to be around to grow old, watch my family grow up.”
I thought about what Butch said. He was right. I was lucky to have a family, people that cared about me and that I cared about. I was extremely lucky.
We caught a couple more waves. When we were back in the lineup, I broached the topic of Sandy. “Remember when I told you about borrowing money from Sandy?”
He smirked. “Yeah. I guess you were pretty desperate. I get it.” He scratched his head. “You know she called the shop the other day.”
My throat constricted. “What did she say?”
“It was strange. She introduced herself—of course I remembered her—and she said she had some information about you. I had to put her on hold for a minute and when I came back she was gone. I forgot all about it ’till just now.” He looked at me expectantly. “What was that all about?”
“Holy hell. She wants her money and she wants it now. She threatened me. Said she’d talk.”
“That’s bizarre. Wouldn’t she be just as embarrassed about what happened between you two?”
“You’d think so. She’s gotten downright unreasonable. She said she’d go to the surf community and blab.”
Butch stared at me. “Who would believe her?”
I barked out a laugh. “I haven’t exactly been an angel.”
“Quit rubbing it in. You are pretty well known with the ladies. But this is different.”
I avoided eye contact. “She said she’d go to the cops if I didn’t have her money soon.”
Butch sucked in his breath. “Can she really do that?”
“I don’t think so. It’s not like she has any hard evidence.” Butch groaned. “But she could definitely do her best to humiliate me in surfing circles.”
“What are you going to do?”
I stared at the horizon. “When Tyler’s house sells, I’ll pay her back.”
“Damn, you’d better pay this woman back and fast. She doesn’t sound too thrilled.” His voice softened. “I know you didn’t want to sell the house, but it’s the right thing.”
“It’s just a house. That money will be our nest egg until I figure out a steady living. If Rosalyn needs more treatments, or …” I didn’t want to think about what would happen if she didn’t survive. It would be me and Eugene alone, and I needed to make a living somehow. And somehow did not include working for Sandy Farnsworth again, thank you very much. “I’m going for the Ride of the Year prize.”
“Okay, man, I’m with you. You’re in great shape. No reason you can’t be a contender. I’ll watch from the beach next time out though.”
We surfed a while longer. Then another set of waves came through, and I put myself in the priority position, my arms paddling easily into a glassy wave. “Last one to Taco Bell is a rotten egg!” I yelled over my shoulder.
I hoped that within the next week, I would have a shot at Ride of the Year at Mavericks. I sent up a small prayer to the surf Gods.
They answered in the next few days.
Rosalyn
In the days leading up to our trip, Jax was crazed, almost like a professional meteorologist, the way he checked his tide chart apps and the various buoy reports he followed. His laptop was constantly open, displaying charts, graphs and numbers that were gibberish to me. Looking over his shoulder, I spied the swell reports, which displayed wavy lines in vibrant colors straight out of a Matisse painting depicting what I imagined to be severe weather conditions. A chill covered my body. As timing would have it, there was a huge swell happening the week we were heading out to Half Moon Bay, which meant that Mavericks would be breaking.
Two days before we left, Jax said, “You’re sure you don’t mind if our vacation turns into a surf trip?” We were lying in bed as Jax traced small circles on my stomach with his warm fingers, making his way down toward my thighs.
“You know better than to ask me anything when I’m lying next to you naked,” I said. “But honey, I don’t know about this. After what happened in Mexico—”
He put his finger to my lips. “It’s okay. I train hard. But if you’re really worried …”
“Being worried’s part of being in love. You promise to be careful?”
“Of course I will.”
“And wear your flotation vest?”
“Yes, sweetheart, I will. It’s going to be fine. Now close your eyes, think about the ocean, and I’ll kiss you.” His soft lips caressed mine, and I forgot about the dangers of big wave surfing, for the moment.
Two days later, Jax, Eugene, Nelson, and I packed up the Explorer with Jax’s big wave guns strapped to the roof and made the drive to Half Moon Bay.
As Jax drove, his hand on my thigh, his expression was that of a man in another world. I tapped his knee. “Jax? You okay?”
He snapped to attention. “What? Of course, just doing my deep breathing exercises.” He gave me a nervous smile. “Turn up the tunes. Let’s blast your Led Zeppelin.”
The Inn at Mavericks is a cozy resort situated on a small bluff overlooking the harbor and the Pacific Ocean. There were six guest rooms, each with their own gas burning fireplace, comfy beds with luxurious linens and private patios.
“Dude! We really get our own room,” Nelson said as he raced
into the room next to ours.
“Mom,” Eugene said, “Can Nelson and me eat some of that cool junk they have by the coffee pot?” He pointed to the decadent candy bars, potato chips, and nuts.
“Okay, honey,” I said, patting his head and looking into his trusting eyes. “Just don’t overdo it. We’re going to dinner early then Jax has to rest and get ready for tomorrow.”
“We get to see you surf! Flippin’ awesome!” Nelson said. “You better take off on the biggest wave of the day.”
I knew that Jax was already thinking about the fifty thousand dollar prize to be won for the Ride of the Year.
Everything was within walking distance in the small town. After dinner at a locally owned, home-style Italian restaurant, the four of us walked back to the Inn. The sky was alight with a dazzling display of burnt orange, pink, purple and wisps of clouds as the sun set over the bay, the sailboats silhouetted against a rapidly darkening sky.
Once the boys were in bed, Jax and I retreated to our room where I cracked open my book to read in bed and he laid out all the equipment he would need for the following day: wetsuit, booties, flotation vest, and his lucky Love Bone T-shirt.
When he was done, he looked at me with a mischievous smile, took a running start, dove onto the bed, and said, “Now that that’s done, how about we work on my big wave preparation routine?”
I looked at him with mock surprise. “And what would that be?”
He grinned. “You lay back, I put my mouth all over your body…”
I swatted him with my book. “Don’t you have to rest before the big event?”
“You really want to know how I prepare?” He pulled my T-shirt with the Om symbol up over my breasts and kissed them.
“Stop it! You’re supposed to be staying calm.”
“And this calms me down.” He gazed into my eyes and stroked my hair.
Health issues aside, I couldn’t get enough of Jax. I didn’t like thinking this way, but if these were to be my last months, I was determined to savor the people I cared about. Eugene was in the room next to ours, and I was in bed with Jax.
I still wasn’t over the novelty of having Jax’s athletic body in bed with me again, and my heartbeat pulsed in my ears as my body flushed with desire. I wanted Jax. I wanted him in every way a woman can want a man, as a protector, a friend, a confidante, and as a hot sexual partner.
Waves of Desire: Pleasure Point Series Book Three Page 20
